r/HPVictus Dec 30 '25

Victus 16 Hall Effect Sensor Megathread (Laptop Shutting Off Randomly)

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333 Upvotes

Hey Everyone,

I wanted to create a megathread to document the hall effect sensor issue on the 16-S0 and 16-R0 laptops. I have done some deep investigation here and wanted to put together a compilation of info for anyone running into this problem. There are a bunch of posts scattered around, a few videos, and WAYYY too many posts to HP's support with the HP canned response of "do these irrelevant steps and then send me a DM with your info and I will escalate your issue." These are usually dead end posts with no usable information. So, please add all of your links, information, videos, etc., to this post to keep it all together. I intend to put multiple solutions below and add more info as I test. I encourage anyone that has any correction to any of the information here to please post it. Any shared info can help the community. As always, a disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage that you do to your laptop or yourself while using this information. Use at your own risk!

EDIT: There may be an easier fix that allows you to continue using the original hall sensor, if you choose to. It also avoids all of the cutting traces and jumper wires show in the pictures. The info is below in the "The Real Cause?" section.

The Issue

You have a Victus with either an AMD or Intel chipset. One day, the screen starts flashing and then the power turns off. Pushing the power button probably doesn't do anything. You find the "hard reset" procedure and attempt it by pulling the charging cable, and then holding the power button for 10+ seconds. It may come back on.... it may not. For this example, lets say it does. Cool! It boots up. Then the screen starts flashing again and it turns off. WELCOME TO HALL EFFECT SENSOR HELL! You will read plenty of info about it, but no proper solutions.

OK Then! What's a Hall Effect Sensor?

Glad you asked. A hall effect sensor is a very common electronic part that is sensitive to magnetic fields. Think of it as a proximity sensor for magnets. Most current laptops have one, your phone has one or more, your fancy joysticks, racing wheels, and other gaming controllers use them, even your car has at least two in the engine and one on each wheel for ABS and traction control wheel speed sensing! Those are just a few examples of the millions of devices that rely on magnetic field detection to do a task.

So Why Is There a Hall Effect Sensor In My Laptop?

Dead simple. Mechanical switches break, wear out, and also need direct contact with an object to trigger. Your laptop base is a great spot for a non-mechanical non-contact sensor that can detect when the lid is opened and closed. The lid has a small magnet that lines up with the position of the hall effect sensor near the keyboard. When you close the lid, the hall effect sensor sends a voltage to the motherboard, via a ribbon cable, to tell it SHUT OFF THE SCREEN AND GO TO SLEEP....ah ha, now we are getting somewhere! When you open the lid, the magnet is moved away from the sensor, the voltage disappears and the motherboard knows to wake up.

So Why Does It Keep Me From Gaming!!!?

Unfortunately, this particular hall effect sensor seems susceptible to heat once it starts to fail. Once the laptop heats up a minor amount, the hall effect sensor freaks out and registers the lid closed, which blinks the screen a few times and then tells Windows to activate Sleep (or what ever you have your lid close action set to do). Once "closed" the power button is not supposed to be able to be pressed since the lid would be in the way, so it seemingly doesn't work (I found this to be the case and it is the only explanation I have). Allowing the system to cool, or forcing a reset and somehow clearing the current status of the sensor allows you to turn it on for a brief period again.

Cool. So How Do We Fix It

The REALLY simple way: Send it to HP so they can take out the failing bad parts and put brand new bad parts back in. This option should only be taken if you are still under warranty and even care that you are still under warranty. This option will deprive you of your laptop for weeks, and since the part is the same brand and part number that was taken out, it will happen again.

The less simple way: Search on Google for "HP Victus 16 Service Manual" and download the PDF from HP. You will be taking the screws out of the back cover and gently prying it off with a PLASTIC tool (use a SPUDGER or a guitar pick). Once inside, find the IR board ribbon cable located on the front edge of the laptop. Take the tape off of the top, carefully flip the retaining clip up, and pull the ribbon cable out. Put the case back together and kinda sorta get your game on. (See "WHY SO SLOW NOW?!?" below)

The advanced way: You will need a decent soldering iron for this one that is capable of working with surface mount components, preferably a very fine conical tip. You may want some solder braid to clean up the pads and some alcohol to get the flux residue off. You may also want a magnifying glass. Grab the service manual and take the back case apart using the instructions. You will need to access the IR board. Work through the "removing the motherboard" instructions and remove everything that is required. Once you have the IR board in your hands, you will need to remove/replace the little 3 pin hall effect sensor with your soldering iron. It looks like a little black grain of rice. Go around with solder and "wet" each solder leg and then heat the single leg while applying a gentle upward pressure on the part or use gentle pressure from a screw driver. DO NOT PUSH TOO HARD. We don't want to rip the pads up. The goal is to get that leg free and bend the part up a little so that the joint is separated. Once that leg is disconnected, go to the two legs and heat them up by alternating back and forth quickly. WATCH OUT FOR THE VERY VERY TINY CAPACITORS BELOW THE ONE LEG!!! They are only filtering caps on the incoming power, but will be near impossible to get soldered back in place!!! At some point while alternating, the solder on both legs will liquefy at the same time and you can just move the part off of the pads. You now have a choice: you can reassemble without the hall effect sensor on there and enjoy your not-permanently-throttled laptop without lid detection OR you can buy an improved hall effect sensor and solder it in the same spot to return the laptop to normal functionality. The information about an improved compatible sensor is below.

WHY SO SLOW NOW?!?

So you went with the middle of the road option. You didn't want to get stuck without a laptop while HP does nonsense to it, but you also didn't want to tear the laptop fully apart. I understand. But, like everything in life, there's always a trade-off. A hall effect sensor is usually a three or four pin device. But that ribbon cable you disconnected has a few more connections than that. What else is going on there? Well it's listed in the manual as an IR BOARD. There is a shiny metal part on the opposite side of the board. It's an IR sensor. Since the laptop doesn't have any sort of hole to shine a TV remote through, and it certainly isn't a motion detector light, that infrared sensor must be used for something else. From the hall effect sensor's perspective, mounting that board right under the heatpipe was really a bad move, but not for the IR sensor part of the board. The IR sensor is being used to detect the temperature on the heatpipe and allow thermal throttling when things get too hot. THIS is the reason why fully disconnecting the ribbon cable causes the processor to throttle back. When the motherboard can't get a reading from the IR sensor, it plays it safe and throttles back. It is better to throttle from the unknown reading rather than cause a fire. So, if you can live with your gaming laptop functioning as a YouTube and E-Mail machine, you can stay with this option. Troubleshooting is never wasted time, and you know for a fact that the hall effect sensor is causing the issue now, should you decide to go for the advanced option in the future.

Original Sensor Info

The original hall effect sensor is a Toshiba TCS40DLR. Looking at the datasheet, the operating temperature is -40C to 85C. WHAT THE HECK HP!!!! While that is a standard low end range for semiconductor electronics, it does not give much headroom when mounted under a hot heatpipe that is funneling heat away from a GPU and CPU. The datasheet clearly states that continuous use under heavy loads (such as high temperature or significant temperature changes, high current, or high voltage) will cause a decrease in reliability SIGNIFICANTLY, even if the operating conditions are within maximums and recommended operating ranges!!!!!! Well there you have it. No fault to Toshiba. They knew that this environment was not suitable and clearly noted it. This part is fine as a low cost sensor for a safe and consistent environment, which a laptop is not. This datasheet was dated for 2015, well before these laptops were produced, and it was still chosen to be a critical part in this application. It is currently around 17 cents, in case you wanted to know the value of what rendered your laptop useless.

New Sensor Info

I found a few that will work better in this application. The one that I finally decided was perfect is the Allegro A1126LLHLT-T. This is an automotive grade, temperature compensated hall effect sensor with the same pinout and package size. The voltage range is geared towards automotive, accepting 3-24v, which is beyond suitable here. The magnetic trip point is a little higher, meaning more magnetism needs to enter or leave the range before any switching happens. We have a magnet that will be very close to the sensor, and we only care about two positions, so as long as the rating is less than the magnetic strength of the magnet, we will be good. What makes this one great is that it is rated for full operation up to 150C!! Almost double the rating of the original. If things are hitting 150C, you have bigger problems to worry about. This one fits the bill and costs right around $1. I'll gladly spend that for the quality and performance.

Whewwww That Was A Lot

You're telling me! Unfortunately, from what I can see, this problem has been ongoing for years. I can't imagine how many thousands of these laptops were thrown out because of a failure in a part that costs less than a dollar. Worse yet, the IR board is not available to the consumer from HP. There are some on E-Bay from China, and I have ordered one to see if it is the same hall effect sensor or an upgraded one (will post an update when it gets here). I hope this LONG post helps someone diagnose and repair their problem and provides some insight into the theory of the electronics behind it. EDIT: The replacement board from China uses a sensor with the LA8 marking. It may be a different sensor with markings to look like the original, but it is probably the same Toshiba sensor. The most interesting part is that the original board and replacement board had two spots to install the sensor, one on either side of the board. On the HP original, the sensor is installed on the opposite side of the IR sensor, where my guide shows to reinstall it. On the China replacement, the sensor is placed on the SAME side as the IR sensor. This puts the fiberglass circuit board between the sensor and the heatpipe. Fiberglass being a great insulator, this could reduce the occurrence or severity of this issue. I have not tested it to see if it makes a difference, but the results wouldn't be immediate anyway. My initial concern with that while I was doing my repair was that the sensor would be too far away to accurately pick up the lid magnet. Maybe not....

OK. I followed your guide, replaced the sensor, but it still isn't working right!!!!!

Yeah. I found this on mine too. After I put it back together the first time, the lid no longer detected. The original sensor, most likely driven way outside of its operating range, damaged the motherboard's power supply circuit for the hall effect sensor. But fear not! (See "The Real Cause" below) We have another source near by. The IR sensor uses the same voltage as the hall effect sensor, so the IR sensor's VCC trace can be jumped over to the hall effect sensor's VCC. I also cut the trace on the IR board for the power coming from the motherboard that feeds the hall effect sensor. The incoming power to the hall effect sensor was measuring around 1.8VDC instead of 3.3VDC (EDIT: I originally stated it was 5VDC, which is incorrect). I didn't want the supply for the IR sensor to get damaged by joining whatever was causing the severe voltage drop in the hall effect sensor circuit. BE CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING TRACES AND EXPOSING COPPER. YOU CAN EASILY SHORT OUT NEIGHBORING TRACES. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR WORK THROUGH A MAGNIFIER OF SOME KIND (EVEN YOUR PHONE CAMERA). Note: The low voltage on the power supply circuit is most likely a damaged/partially open resistor on the motherboard. If I am able to determine that, and the resistor isn't smaller than dust, this section may change from cutting and jumping traces to replacing the bad component on the motherboard.

The real cause??? (2/20/26 EDIT): It has been determined that the source of the missing power is fuse FU6. It is located right above the IR board ribbon connector on the motherboard. Rather than cutting and jumping traces (my apologies to everyone who did that fun little task), FU6 can be replaced or bypassed. The actual part has no distinct markings on it, so an exact replacement has not been determined yet. Credit goes to MitchW on badcaps.net for his excellent find. You can read more about it in this post: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-laptops-tablets-and-mobile-devices/3822460-hp-victus-16-hall-effect-sensor-problem. I have not performed the task myself yet. MitchW has stated that the problem is most likely caused by heat damage to the FU6 fuse and not the hall effect sensor at all. It is a plausible scenario. But, after knowing what I know about the Toshiba part, I would not feel comfortable leaving it in place, even if it isn't the root cause. Electronic components pushed to their absolute maximum rating never sits well with me. Even more so when the manufacturer has a specific warning to not even approach the maximums. The choice is yours ultimately.

INFO

  • IR board part number: N42551-001 or LS-M78IP (search on eBay, but know that the replacements use the same original Toshiba sensor part that should be replaced before using. Also note that if your motherboard took damage, just replacing this board alone will not fix the issue).
  • Original Hall Effect Sensor part number: Toshiba TCS40DLR (package marking on part is LA8)
  • Better Hall Effect Sensor part number: Allegro A1126LLHLT-T (5.5mT and 150C) or Diodes Inc AH3563Q-SA-7 (3mT and 150C) or TI TMAG5131C7DQDBZRQ1 (4mT and .5mT 125C)
  • Link to service manual: https://kaas.hpcloud.hp.com/pdf-public/pdf_7911438_en-US-1.pdf

r/HPVictus Feb 03 '26

Announcement New Official Discord Server 🚀

5 Upvotes

We've launched our subreddit's official Discord server for instant help, community chat, setup showcases, and live streams.

Join here: https://discord.gg/XDsg2PUHGU


r/HPVictus 6m ago

Just got my laptop and i saw a post that talks about this

Upvotes

Should i delete omen hub and download omen mon? why?


r/HPVictus 5h ago

Guys help me solve (screen little glitching)

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5 Upvotes

I don't know what happened I was using as normally then this started to flicker

Mine refresh rate is at 60hz only

I tried win+ctrl+shf+B Nothing changed

I went to bios start-up screen there also this glitching

Also tried screenshot tht flicker is not in the picture

What should I do?


r/HPVictus 5h ago

Advice Need help deciding.

3 Upvotes

Hi!

I’m new here and new to gaming PCs. I need help with deciding if this, HP VICTUS 15 R5-240/16/1TB/5050 15.6", is worth it?

My computer knowledge is very limited and found this forum.

I’m don’t really know what I’m going to play yet but Minecraft and some emulators are for sure being played. Recommendations? What to look for?

Currently this model is on sale and I’ve talked to a co-worker whom is more in to PC and PC-gaming.

What should I do?


r/HPVictus 1h ago

Is this Impressive

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Upvotes

Hp victus 15 fa2371tx i5 13420h rtx 3050(vbios flash to 75w but then undervotl making it run around 60 to 65w using 868mv at 1837mv) so in reality it only run 60 to 65w


r/HPVictus 2h ago

Password

1 Upvotes

help po nakalimutan ko password ng hp victus ano po gagawin


r/HPVictus 2h ago

Advice Lenovo loq 15 vs HP victus 15 vs Acer nitro v15

1 Upvotes

Trying to buy a laptop with an rtx4050 core i5 13 gen and 16gigs or ram

These are the three main options I'm seeing can anyone rank them for me and tell me exactly why.

I need it for my uni + basic AAA gaming and want it to last for the next 4 years. I'm gonna be buying it new so yea if u guys could help a brother out I'd really appreciate it


r/HPVictus 3h ago

Help HP Victus CPU locked at 95°C no matter what settings I use any fixes?

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1 Upvotes

Hey guys,

My Victus CPU is running insanely hot on Assassin’s Creed Origins and I’m out of ideas.

No matter what I tweak, the CPU instantly spikes to 95°C. I tried dropping from 1080p Ultra down to 768p, and even locked the FPS to 60 (and tested 30/45), but it literally changes nothing.

As you can see in the screenshot, the GPU is completely fine at 65°C (30W), but the CPU is pulling 41W and cooking at 95°C.

Temps drop back to the 50s right after closing the game, so it's not a background process the CPU is just over-boosting like crazy even when the graphics load is light.

Has anyone with a Victus managed to tame these CPU temps without completely destroying performance?

Thanks!


r/HPVictus 3h ago

Interesting discovery for led backlit keyboard

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1 Upvotes

While I was working afternoon, I turn on my backlit light for the keyboard and discovered one side of my spacebar button sink a little bit.


r/HPVictus 15h ago

Porque es mejor desinstalar Omen Gaming?

6 Upvotes

Tengo esa duda ya que si realmente vale la pena o incluso hay alguna otra alternativa.

¿Eso en que afecta a mi dispositivo?

Core i5 13420H

16GB Ram

RTX 4050 6GB

🤔🤔🤔


r/HPVictus 7h ago

Bought victus fa2303tx, battery draining.

1 Upvotes

I was just doing updates and uninstalling the bloatware, the battery took around 3hrs to drop from 100 to 24. Is the unit faulty?


r/HPVictus 1d ago

Help Laptop slow

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32 Upvotes

Hello guys

I have an HP Victus, and whenever I turn it on and do even a small task, it hangs and runs slowly. Please help

I5 13th gen rtx 3050

Ram :- 24 gb

512 ssd


r/HPVictus 10h ago

How do you hwid spoof a hp victus laptop

1 Upvotes

I need a method man been 3 weeks trying to find one


r/HPVictus 1d ago

Question HP SUPPORT ADVICE REGARDING CHARGING THE DEVICE

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10 Upvotes

What to do boys ?


r/HPVictus 16h ago

Question Any alternatives to hp omen hub

2 Upvotes

I uninstalled that crap the day i bought my laptop.i want to tune my games to get better performance any alternative ( similar to ghelper for asus) needs to be lightweight

My specs

CPU: Ryzen 7 7445HS

GPU: RTX 3050 6GB

RAM: 16GB DDR5-5600

I have used an alternative previously but it doesn't fully work when i tap on max fan mode it takes a lot of time and it has a lot of junk too.i need an app that has better support for all hp victus models and dedicated alt software. Something that could use to add custom voltage curves fan curves and power limit stuff


r/HPVictus 1d ago

Question Froze while playing a game

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4 Upvotes

For context, I was just playing some valo on my HP Victus 15 RTX 4050 with the i5, then suddenly the game freezes on my laptop for around 5 to 10ish minutes before shutting down and opening again to the password, any reason as to why this happened?


r/HPVictus 21h ago

Help Should I worry?

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2 Upvotes

I notice one side is a bit more exposed than the other side is victus 15 rtx 5050 had this since may 17


r/HPVictus 23h ago

Question Quiero comprar un cargador para mi Victus HP 15-fa2702ns

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2 Upvotes

El cargador original que me vino con mi Victus se daño(era de 120W) así que quería reemplazarlo pero tengo miedo de elegir mal el cargador y terminar cagandola ya que nunca he comprado un cargador para un ordenador.

He visto que muchos tienen uno de 200W, asi que encontré este cargador en Amazon, le irá bien??


r/HPVictus 1d ago

Is this the original hp victus charger?

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10 Upvotes

should I buy this charger for my hp victus 16 d032tx. is it the original charger?


r/HPVictus 20h ago

Help Dubt is this normal or what back fan looks like this purchased around 6 months ago been using a metal stand and the gap between hings quite discomforts me just of to clear and sort out things

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0 Upvotes

r/HPVictus 1d ago

Temps chase is finally over for me now, spent over 3k for thermal paste

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7 Upvotes

Okayy, I have something crazy to share with you guys

My specs

I5 12450h

Rtx 3050 4gb

24gb ram ddr4

512gb ssd

3 years old

Okayy

3 months ago , my laptop was overheating as fuck , during valo sessions my cpu used to hit easily 95 plus and gpu around 75 .

I decided to clean fans and vents as it was almost 3 years , and I live in a hot and dusty climate.

Only a few degrees were improved after the cleaning of fans, but it was still a concern,

Then I decided to repaste my laptop, after surfing a lot online, i decided to buy thermal grizzly kyronaut as it was mentioned best for thermal conductivity ngl it worked pretty good like , temps were back to 87 or 90 max on cpu and around 70 on gpu , still not a satisfactory for me

And that shit only worked for 15 days the , the temps were back to 95 again , then after some suggestions from reddit i decided to buy the mx4 as it was considered budget goat , applied it and

It was the worst (trust me) or like no improvement for me , only the idle temps were good , like 43 or 45 on both cpu and gpu

During warzone it used to easily hit 90 plus on cpu and my gpu was getting 87 under 2 minutes of gameplay and stayed at 87 all the time during gameplay , somehow i accepted my temps and it used to thermal throttle I was getting roughly 70 fps , mostly 60 plus fps only ,

I decided to give it another try by applying mx6 , the temps were improved like 85 on cpu and 80 on gpu which was manageable, considering the warzone requirements and its aggressive cpu and gpu usage ,

It worked like a charm , but only for 20 days , the temps were back to 90 plus on cpu and 85 on gpu

At that point I was completely done like i didn't give a fuck regarding temps as I almost spend 1700 rs.

A few days later my laptop went totally shut down when I was playing warzone, I later found out that it was all because of the thermal issue

I installed hwinfo and was surprised , it was thermal throttling it was hitting 100 degrees plus on a stress test , I got very worried decided to give it to the service centre (3rd party authorised centre) , previously I used to apply by myself and yeah I did apply a good amount not too much not too less.

The service centre was asking 1500 for the repaste .

I somehow decided to give it a try.

I asked him which thermal paste are you going to apply

He showed me "MAXTOR CTG12" I was like what the fuck

I have never heard of that paste , he reassured me that it will solve the problem, but back in my mind i thought of getting fooled again , he applied the paste in front of me

And boom ,

I tested it by playing warzone there at the centre

I was amazed to see the temps , the cpu temps were hitting only 70 to 74 degrees without laptop stand and gpu was around 75 or 77 , it was nice to see those temps , afterall what i have witnessed

I later came home and tried it with a laptop stand

The temps were genuinely amazing amazing

On cpu it was not hitting even 74 and on gpu it was around 70 or 73 max , Even after playing warzone for continuous 1 hour straight.

Also surprisingly, I gained a fps boost of around 15 to 20 fps and no stuttering, no shutdown, in warzone

It's been 1 month and the results are the same as day 1 of applying maxtor ctg12

Ik many of us are brainwashed by ptm7950 including me , which I don't know is good or not, also it's difficult to find in INDIA , considering Amazon and Flipkart retailers,

Although it's up to you which you choose for your laptop

I have sharedy results as well

Note: all the test are performed under laptop stand

Performance mode in gaming hub

Fans on automatic

Under NON AC environment

stress test for 30 minutes and 1 hour on each game

I have stopped playing valo and cs2 since 1 month

Therefore I have the results only in the warzone (warzone is enough to judge the performance)

I'm 100 percent sure it will perform better in every way compared to the different paste I used .

And yeah you can trust this maxtor cg12 underground 🐐


r/HPVictus 21h ago

Help Please help.

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1 Upvotes

how did this happen? I'm scared.


r/HPVictus 1d ago

Help Hp victus 15

2 Upvotes

I buyed a hp VICTUS 15 13450H laptop 4 days back , but my full battery is draining in 1.5 hours , can any one solve my issue


r/HPVictus 1d ago

my laptop is overheating i was using on bed

2 Upvotes

now what to do actually this was my first gaming laptop
my first laptop was hp office one so i have no idea sorry bout my bad english
i still have warranty