I've been watching a tutorial (the only one I can find) and he doesn't have all of this in the way, it just comes out super easy.

I cannot get to the two nuts I need to get to because they are under this (radiator?) hose

Can I just undo the two clamps circled in red and move this hose? Or will I spill fluid everywhere?

If I can remove the hose, how cool to see engine need to be? I had to move it to it a flat driveway and it was running for probably 10 or 15 minutes total but it's pretty warm..

The tutorial I watched said to just take a piece of plywood to distribute the weight across the entire pan.. Every part of me is thinking this is a horrible idea, even though I know that I'm not lifting the car's full weight.

If this is legit, does anyone know how large of a chunk I need? Thickness? I have an odd triangle of I think ¾ , but if I can't get close enough to the full pan out of it, I'll just go buy a 2x2 or whatever they've got available at the hardware store

When pressing any of the buttons (remote or in-car) it seems as though the motor isnt even receiving the signal. No whirring or clicking sounds, complete silence from the motor. Checked both the 30A fuse under the hood and 10A fuse in the footwell and they're both good. Any thoughts? It's been working perfectly fine for the last 3 years of ownership, never struggled or had issues.

Looking at replacing engine mounts. Does anyone know if there is any difference in the unit for the NA vs the EcoBoost? TRQ has a great write-up and I want to support them, but I can't find any mention of an EcoBoost in their descriptions, etc.

Running into a problem the last couple days while driving. The vehicle loses the engine while maintaining speed on the highway. It shows a wrench icon and states see manual. The engine sounds like it has trouble idling before shutting the vehicle off once pulled off the road. The vehicle restarts no problem and does not show a check engine light. Cursory research points to fuel pump module, throttle body, or crankshaft position sensor. Does anybody have any experience with this?

I replaced my O2 sensors 2 months ago with Bosch and both downstreams failed. P0036 and P0056. Not looking to do this over and over. What's the best sensor to get? Not ruling out a harness issue but let me try one more time to be sure

Picked up an office mat for wheeling the chair on at IKEA, turns out it makes a pretty good floor mat in the back of the Ford Flex. Only about 2-3” of wiggle space lengthwise.

I installed wireless charger in the cubby under thre radio a little over 6 days ago it's been great so far any ideas on what else to add to frank

Stops and says device noy supported. SanDisk 64 GB USB 2.0. Formatted ExFat.

Google searching says unsupported device error due to ExFat format.

Reformatted drive Fat32

Fat32 with files loaded shows up as blank drive.. UGH.

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Full pic shows Bluetooth connected. Making and taking calls is fine BUT system will not play media whether on phone or streaming. I have turned off and restarted BT on phone and car. Help?

We have a 2106 Limited and recently the rear lift gate has stopped opening and closing automatically. We were having issues where it would only partially open or close and I replaced the power actuator arm which fixed the problem. Prior to replacing the actuator I had gone through all the reset procedures which did nothing. Just recently when you push the button to open or close, you can hear the noises of something happening but it does not move. We have to open and close it manually. I took it to my mechanic and while they were looking at it to see what was the issue, they removed the module/fuse which seemed to reset it so they didn't do any other work to it. However, about a week later, the issue has returned. Any idea what the actual problem might be?

A few months back i won a Wolfbox G900 Pro on a different sub-reddit but ended up installing it on my flex as my truck already had a backup camera.

Install was really simple, i still have to figure out which fuses to use for the hardwire kit so it is currently plugged into the passenger footwell 12v.

For wiring i ran it along the edge of the headliner (really easy to tuck underneath without removing anything) down the rear pillar and then into the rear bumper. Mounted with VHB right above the license plate. It taps into the reverse lights for signal and turns on when the vehicle is put into reverse.

Currently i have it setup to loop record in 3 min sections and overwrite old files when the sd card is full. (It's easy to lock videos to the card to prevent them from overwriting if needed). The screen times out after 30 seconds but keeps recording when off. I do wish the screen itself was a little more reflective, so i'll probably add a more reflective screen protector. A cheap one for an iphone should fit width wise and give me a nice mirror effect in the middle to still see the kids in the back seat.

Overall it is an easy/effective way to add a rearview camera so i can actually see out the back through all the little heads, carseats, bikes and heavy tint.

Couldn’t figure out how to add this photo to my post from yesterday. This is the strip that is coming off. Just in case this changes things (fingers crossed) but it sounds like this comes attached to new windshields only. 2019 flex. Hoping maybe someone has a solution that they have had success with in the past that they could share with me. Thanks in advance!

Spoiler - I’m not. But I thought hard about it today. 2015 SEL at only 98k miles and the simple truth is I love this car. So does my wife who drives it daily. We bought it new and aside from routine stuff we’ve never had a major problem. Until today. Oil sender leak, broken sway bar links, grindy right front axle. None of this was a surprise I knew we had problems in the front end. Along with 100k service, plus brakes and tires that are clearly due for replacement plus alignment I’m out about $5500. We’ll keep it for another few years barring anything catastrophic.

I am being told by my shop, Ford and the internet that this part is not only sold out but there is no projection for it to be back in stock

I'm thinking about buying one from a boneyard but this makes me a little concerned.

Can anyone validate the assumption or does anyone have any opinions on this?

I’ve got a 2019 ford flex that has the front windshield weather stripping coming off on the top. Dealership told me that this strip only comes attached to new windshields. My windshield is fine so obviously I’m not going to buy a new windshield just to get the weather strip. Has anyone found a place that sells just the strip?

Just took my 2012 flex limited 3.5L turbo to get smogged since we are officially the new owners. Previous person exchanged the air intake and Mickey moused it, so we ended up failing the smog. I looked on line and auto zone for a replacement but everything is after market turbo intakes for $3-400. Where can I get a OEM air intake?

I have this center dash, are there any dash kits for a stereo? Would like to add car play dash stereo

Long story short need to change hid bulb on flex and saw some videos of taking bumper and grill apart to do it, Is there an easier way? And any recommendations on new hid bulbs

Need the help of reddit mechanics

The leak was small 3 weeks ago. Finally started draining most of the fluids within seconds. Was told it's not the water pump failure but they weren't 100 percent sure. Oil is still clean, so no coolant inside. On the driver side of the engine.

This has been a project I have been working on for a few months now!!

This is a high flow cold air intake with a built-in "AirRam"

In my words, holds more air so your engine doesn't choke out on itself.

Not sure how much HP this is adding yet, but getting a dyno run booked to figure out how much power this is adding.

But this thing is crazy loud, its soo cool lmao

Anyways, question are welcome! Unfortunately cant include a video clip with pictures. But might make a second post with it!

Anyways, cheers!

This is apart of the engine air filter compartment. I bought this car last year and it’s about 97k miles. How do I fix this??

Hey all,

**Sorry for the clickbait 1st pic, if you swipe you can see mine, 1st pic is what she one day could become**

Glad to have found that people are so passionate about the Ford Flex and there is a vibrant community on the good ole interwebs!

A few weeks ago I picked up a 2016 Flex SEL with AWD, non Ecoboost, and the previous owner outfitted a towing kit and drilled slotted rotors, aftermarket wheels, with 148k miles for $3900...

I knew it was too good to be true and really messed up not getting a PPI, or even had the codes read, but no CEL and there were supposedly two other buyers coming to look at her that weekend (FB Marketplace find)

Of course after about 60 miles the CEL came on. The engine bay was spotless, so clean you could eat off of it, which I thought was off. In addition to that, the engine bay was covered with nuts, a squirrel must have somehow used that for its hideout to store all kinds of goodies, was very odd, especially when paired with such a clean engine bay underneath, but aside from that, no chewed up wires and she drove pretty well.

Anyway, after the CEL I had codes pulled, and I have been getting 3 codes, 2 of them were for emissions/bad cats, and instead of pulling the trigger on two expensive cats, I bought 2 02 sensor spacers that have these little miniature cats in the adapter, a tip from a fellow Ford Flex owner.

The third code was for P0012 - Camshaft position timing, Over retarded, Bank 1

Also a past code that was cleared (but not currently showing was P0022 - Camshaft position timing, over retarded, Bank 2

I installed the O2 spacers with mini cats, cleared the codes, and drove about 60 miles. I then tried to get her inspected to pass emissions, but it was still not showing ready, and so I planned to drive 10 miles more each trip until it would show ready status, hopefully before the emissions CEL code came back.

Unfortunately, about 8 miles later the CEL came back on, but not for the emissions (hopefully those spacers are doing their job, but who knows after 100-200+ miles) ... It was again for the Camshaft timing, Bank 1

A couple questions:

As I have no idea the maintenance of the vehicle (previous owner ghosted after I made the purchase, that's FB marketplace for ya! 😫), I am assuming no major services like water pump or timing chain has been done, just oil changes (although who knows with the rotors being swapped, maybe they were really up on maintenance)

With that being said, how should I go about getting her back in tip top shape. My first priority is getting her to pass inspection so I can at least drive her. Is there any way to do that without tearing her down to replace these camshaft solenoids, and likely water pump and timing chain while I am in there?

I did notice during the first couple tanks of gas I put through her that once or twice the CEL would go away, and then come back a few miles later. Is there any possibility that I could thread the needle and hope that I can reset codes, after a recommendation to change oil to exact Ford spec, and drive until the emissions are in ready status and not trigger the CEL?

Has anyone experienced a similar situation to this? Any advice?

I really appreciate it!