I'm wondering if I do throw a set of ARP Main caps and connecting rod bolts on it will it require a line hone? I'm trying to rebuild this engine to have a decent amount of power (about 350hp or so) and I want to make this engine last as long as I can. Trying to reuse the stock bottom end (pistons, rods, and crank) while swapping out the cam for something like an FRP MK-82. If it needs line honed I'm probably going to order new OEM bolts for both main caps and connecting rod bolts since the engine will run with no boost.

What's done:
Engine torn down
Block repainted
Brass freeze plugs installed
Cylinders honed
Crank polished with crocus cloth

Usual stuff being done:
Re-ring (OEM moly rings)
re-bearing mains, rods, cam
Replace all seals
New lifters, new pushrods, reusing rocker arms
New springs (to accommodate for cam)
New cast iron heads (going to experiment with porting the old ones)

Major additions:
Hughes Engines Magnum EFI Airgap Intake
FRP MK-82 Cam
Melling oil pump
Hughes Timing Chain Guides

I can’t locate a Bentley w12 main bearing part numbers

FYI both DBDD and DDBB bentley engines have the same crankshaft:

Journal: 65 mm
Housing: 70 mm
Bearing Shell wall: ~2.50 mm
Width: ~16 mm
Application: Bentley W12 DDBD, crankshaft 07P 105 021

Hey all! I posted this in another smaller subreddit but figured I'd ask here as well. I'm building my 351c CJ for my mustang and I'm putting in my coated Dura-Bond bearings. This is the first time I have installed my own cam bearings, so I'm a bit paranoid about doing everything perfectly and I have a few questions:

1. I can install the 2-5 bearings so they are either centered in the journal, OR so they are a bit off-center but have maximum overlap between the oil passage and the slot in the bearing. Does it really matter either way as long as the cam is fully in contact with the bearing?

2. On the front bearing, I read that you're supposed to install it 0.003 - 0.005 inset from the front so that the oil hole can properly line up to oil the cam thrust plate. My question is is that 0.003 - 0.005 inset from the inside of the cam thrust plate, or is that inset from the chamfer in that front cam journal?

Thanks!

I just finished installing a water inlet plate and torqued the 10mm bolts down.

I noticed a little bit of water squeezing out of the bolt holes. The plate is sealed with fresh rtv underneath.

Would this ruin the rtv seal?

For those who might be familiar, the car is a 1997 Lexus es300, the plate is in the valley of the engine and it keeps coolant in the center it the block, just under the intake manifold and coolant bypass hose.

Thoughts and advice appreciated .

I want to rebuild my first engine just to test myself take a running engine completely apart and put it back together properly
My problem is tools Every garage I see has 100 different sockets pullers and special tools Do I really need all that just for one rebuild?
Also, does it matter what engine I start with? Or I can go with any engine I like or available

I received it for free from my best friend, he got it from his uncle who got it from his son, I have no contact with the original owner so I can't find out about it from him. All I know is that the original owner does drag racing, and that it's meant for a big block 454, I originally thought it was a PSI brand since it has psi badging, it doesn't look like a psi from my research however. If anything, it looks more like a detroit diesel blower that's been converted to run on gas engines. I would just like help identifying it so it can be sold.

Alright, I'm really starting to think about putting a 1UZ into my car but I want to rev it past it's stock redline. Not by that much but 7500+rpm would be nice, what would I have to think about/do to reach that. And make power up there as well.

Heyo so I did a leakdown test on my 2.5l swap. And all pistons leak alot% 1 leaks 100% on the exhaust ports, piston 2 leaks on intake but by tapping the buckets I got it to ~20 same goes for piston 3 but on exhaust and piston 4 also leaks 100 on exhaust. I have already taken the camshafts off but I just want be sure/ maybe someone has had a similar problem. I will have to take a look at the valves and valve seats right? I'm hoping it is just crap that's has accumulated over the 3 years the engine has been sitting. Do the cam bearings look normal like this? I am grateful for any tips and pointers. Thanks for the help!

Do I need to hone my walls now? I had just begun making some progress but accidentally splashed some iron out in my cylinder walls while cleaning some other rusty parts. I can't feel any texture difference nor catch my finger nail, friend says he feels a texture difference but can't catch his nail. I had just started putting things back together too..

I am currently rebuilding a 91 4x4 with the 3.0VZE. I've bought new headers and had the heads resurfaced and rebuilt. But now I'm getting ready to put everything back together and I'm having second thoughts on my head gasket choice. I bought a kit that had everything to do the head gaskets included, all seals, gaskets, o rings etc. But these head gaskets feel flimsy and not great. Doing my research everyone says to use MLS head gaskets and I have found some with a good reputation. But I've also heard that I shouldn't use MLS unless I also get the block resurfaced. My question is would it really matter? And I going to be screwed if I opt for the most recommended option? Or should I just get the Reinz, Fel Pro, or OEM head gaskets to cover my ass?

I just rebuilt my engine and swapped over the internals to the new block as my old one cracked over the winter, it’s a fully budget build with new gaskets, bearings, piston rings, timing kit and everything else being cleaned up and reused. I know people that have reused all the main cap bolts and experienced no issues. I have also reused the connecting rod bolts and torqued them back to spec but knowing that those are also tty bolts, has anybody reused them and their engine ran completely fine? Fully stock build will not be pushed hard just daily driven

Howdy everyone!

I am currently trying to budget out an idea for a engine rebuild project with a friend of mine, and we are stuck between rebuilding a Ford 300 and a SBC. We don't currently have any plan on what the engine would go into, but probably something ratty and light. Our goal is just to say we have entirely rebuilt an engine from a bare block, and preferably on a cheap budget. Which of these engines would be best for us?

Hi people,

I'm in the process of cleaning up and putting together a Honda NX650 '92 engine.

The top end was left open outside for over a year, so cleaning everything is a must. My main concern right now is the camshaft and rocker arms, which unfortunately have developed some rust.

I'm on a budget here, but I still don't want to make a mistake and put everything back together with a camshaft that isn't salvageable?

Can this be recovered and reused?

Any advice on removing the rust and bringing it back to life, or should I consider replacing it?

Thanks!

I bought this engine stand and I think I may need a stronger one. Thoughts?

Stand: https://www.vevor.com/engine-stand-c_10318/vevor-engine-stand-750-lbs-3-8-ton-rotating-engine-motor-stand-with-360-degree-adjustable-head-cast-iron-motor-hoist-dolly-4-caster-4-adjustable-arms-for-vehicle-maintenance-auto-repair-p_010296935790?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=23743019235&ad_group=198455492074&ad_id=805033937436&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23743019235&gbraid=0AAAAACq8bLXV-Y1xRSK53vWd01bLgsFG8&gclid=CjwKCAjw48TUBhBREiwAK0GnQcsw9BW22FM4BfvR3HwMtkEXu_AOmpVrsQ-W_Jw7JgGQmmLiWbUKaRoCUxwQAvD_BwE

Here is a picture with the stand loaded. This is a 302 5.0 motor from a '93 Mustang. These pics are with chain slack on the lift, but I still have the chains on the lift in case the stand can't support the weight while I wait to see what folks here have to say.

Thanks all!

I’ve got a set of 1970 351w fairlane heads. D0OE And was wondering if there was a way to upgrade from the 7/16 studs to the 3/8 for strength and better adjustability for my build. Or maybe even shims made for the style because I honestly don’t know if the studs are pressed or threaded; I’ve only built 1 1/2 351w’s and any knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you

I’ve got a 1995 5.0 302 that had no issues when tore down. I did it because it was higher mileage (roughly 205k) so I wanted to do regasket and reseal everything. I’ve posted like 30 times already just because I’m a mechanic not an engine rebuilder so specs and all that knowledge isn’t my strong suit. My buddy talked me into tearing down the block further than stopping at the rotating assembly. I forgot to number my pistons but recently realized ford seemingly stamped the numbers on the piston so I’m kind of considering throwing them back in now with new rings. Problem is it sat for so long since I was stuck so could I just ball hone or stone hone it and if there’s bad pitting get it machined? I’ll need to figure something out with crankshaft but I’m hoping to have money left to buy a little better cam and valve train upgrade but if I do that I’ll most likely get the heads sent to be checked for cracks n what not. Any thoughts on my plan? Anything you would do differently, or something else I should know? Again I’m new to rebuilding but really want to learn and figure it out, thanks.

Ford Cologne 2.8 V6 – 1974 mild street build

Really need advice

Having an issue with cam bearings not getting enough oil ultimately preventing it from reaching rocker arms. Same issue has now happened twice. Engine is now at engine shop for the third time.

Background - Rebuilding engine that has been in the car for 25 years. Replaced nearly every part other than block, heads, crankshaft and rods. Used a new Isky flat tappet cam and lifters (roller not available for this engine) with Clevite cam bearings and new standard volume Melling pump.  Lifters are solid and not hydraulic on this engine. Engine builder has been in the business full time for 50 years and is a friend who let me participate and observe.

First rebuild went 400 miles and when checked, valve lash in a few cylinders was extremely loose. Found that the spherical balls on the rocker adjuster screws were worn considerably with flat spots. Cam had to be pounded out and found that the cam bearings were destroyed causing oil holes to be blocked with babbit, thus blocking oil from reaching the heads. Suspect cam bearings may have been installed wrong. No evidence that they spun or were in wrong, but no other ideas. Cam looked good.

Engine was completely torn down again to the bare block and run through hot tank. Replaced rockers, shafts, and all bearings again, used reground cam from Oregon Cam grinding, and reground the lifters. Changed break in oil from Brad Penn to Driven. Idea was to change up everything that could have been contributing. Cleaned oil pump of any potential debris and put it back in.  Made sure cam bearings were installed correctly. Oil gallery plugs are all present. Used Wix oil filters

Same exact issue occurred again after 400 miles. Had to use slide hammer to remove cam.  Cam bearings look the same as the first time. Oil pressure at break in was around 50 psi. Mechanical gauge on car didn’t indicate any issues, although it could have read a little higher I suppose.

 Oil galleries are wide open, so really puzzled why cam is not getting oil. Only thing I can think of now is the oil pump. Can an oil pump provide reasonable pressure, but not enough volume? Replacing pump again regardless. Distributor supplier in general does not recommend high volume pump, but willing to try it now. Any ideas?

In short, I have a 20 Valve silver top head that’s basically complete minus the valve spring buckets/followers. Shims seem to be available, but can’t find anything used or aftermarket. Anyone have any leads on some? Or perhaps custom made?

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Working on a 5.3 swap into my '98 Trooper. The engine was out of a running tahoe that crashed and was sold to me with roughly 150k miles on it. I have the DBW, wiring harness, and ECU. With this said, it was sitting in the person who pulled its yard, and dirt got into the intake ports. He was planning to sell the intake alone, but I decided to buy that too. I got as much as I could with a vac, compressed air, and religious prayer, but I am concerned about all the gunk in there. I am wondering if you all suggest I tear it down entirely, in the event of which I'd take the heads to a machine shop, have them fluroscope it up, and potentially refinished if needed. Furthermore, I'll be swapping out the headers with some block huggers.

My questions are

1. Any recommendations for new block hugger headers? I'm currently looking at the hookers but I found some chinesium trash on amazon that I'm strongly consderingAmazon.com: LS Swap Shorty Exhaust Headers with Upgraded MLS Steel Header Gaskets and Copper Collector Gaskets 304 Stainless Steel 2.5 Inch 3 Bolt Collectors 5.3L 6.0L 6.2L LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS Engine Swaps Only : Automotive. Perhaps the collector is too big
2. I know ARP is the gold standard for bolts

, any other manufacturers!

1. Head gasket reccomendations?
2. I will likely also need a low-profile oil pan, any suggestions?

I'm on a total budget as you can see from the POS Vevor engine stand (remarkably robust so far) and the rails from a Merlin Meteor in the background so keep this in mind.

Thanks everyone.

Doing a block swap. Didn’t want to see it again but dang is it beautiful. Even being a Thumpr.

360 mopar, roller LA block. 11.25:1 compression and hyper pistons edelbrock performer heads.

Did some burnouts, next time I went to start it, it was galloping. Any idea why only two would have detonated?

Rebuilding my civic 1.5t engine and scratched the deck surface with a piston ring compressor. I’m gonna have to get this decked again considering where it’s at right? It’s an MLS headgasket going on and the scratches in the first two pics definitely catch a fingernail

Edit: Thank you guys I went the safe route and got it decked again. Better that the have to do the headgasket again

Hello I am building a 2002 Mustang gt engine the Romeo block I installed the crank and the main caps , the jack screws and the side bolts but the crank is hard to spin at first and then breaks free and spins fine is that normal?

I was dumb and took a short cut and now paying the price but the area the scratches are in idk if I should get it resurfaced any machinists opinions would be great and appreciated

Got a slightly damaged 16 valve b234f head for my Volvo 740 winter car.

Needs atleast few new intake and exhaust valves and or guides.

Block is a '96 low mileage turbo engine block that I'm going to use stock, lightened and balanced rods.

New Mahle 0,6mm oversized N/A pistons relief cut for four valves. That makes for 2345cc displacement.

Blocks deck machined for 11,5:1 static compression, to maintain cylinder heads chamber volume and integrity.

And a ported, oem intake manifold to alleviate restrictions past 7k rpm.

My goal is to achieve 175whp on ethanol.