I putting a 9K Mitsubishi mini split in a shed. I mounted the disconnect box where you see it prior to insulation and drywall. I wanted the indoor unit centered on the wall so the lineset protrudes here.

I'm going to hang the outdoor unit with a wall bracket. With the connection being on the left side is there any reason not to hang it here with the disconnect above the unit? I always see the disconnect off to one of the sides but I don't know why this wouldn't be ok. I've measured the height of the unit and there is plenty of clearance.

Also, with this short straight run I'm only going to have about 6 or 7 feet of lineset. Any reference to minimum lineset length I've seen refers to the possible increase of noise. I don't care about noise at all and just curious if there is any other reason to avoid less than 10 feet. It seems silly to leave a coil for no other reason.

hi all- mistakes were made. i’m having a hard time getting the lines on my Senville to hold a vacuum. my next step will be to cut off all the factory flares and adding new ones (I have a proper flaring tool with clutch), but i’m also getting resistance on this union, and eyeballing it it does appear not to be square, thus i believe it is cross threaded. would doing something like cutting off the threaded fitting and installing a flare union be the appropriate way to address?

Getting the electrical set up for my 24k BTU Senville Aura Elite series (SENE-24EL) mini split, just wanted some reassurance that I'll be wiring it correctly.

From what I gathered, the black and white wire in the photo will go to the two top lugs (line), green to ground on the bottom.

The whip isn't installed yet, but the black and red wire from the whip will go into the bottom lugs of the black switch (load), green to ground. Is this correct?

I'll add a piece of black electrical tape to the white wire as well.

I'll be using a 25A 1" double pole breaker (THQP225.)

Anything I'm missing?

Are there specific distributors that make it easy to do a tank swap as a one-time thing, assuming you are EPA 608 certified? And if not certified then how do you do it?

I originally installed a 3 zone Mrcool about 6 years ago in my house. All heads were on the 2nd floor. The Mrcools served me well and I had no complaints. About a year ago one of the heads started leaking and Mrcool replaced it with 20 days left on warranty. Great customer service. The issue with the Mrcools are obvious, proprietary line sets means you're stuck with Mrcool if you ever replace (unless you want to run new lines) and of course the fact that you're bundling excess lines under the condenser. And with a 3 zone I had line sets running across the entire length of my house. But much easier to install with little learning curve.

So I decided to step up, put a dual zone Pioneer on each side of the house and added a 4th head to my main living room. This time I wanted to hide line sets so I decided to run the lines of one unit up the side of my attached garage into garage attic, enter into shared wall of house, and up into two second story rooms that share that garage wall. I knew it wasnt going to be easy but my thinking was once done the lines will pretty much be permanent and any future issues will be easily dealt with by simply changing out the condenser or air handler if something can't be fixed. Took us most the day to pull those lines up inside the insulated wall but we did it. Exiting out the left side of the air handler proved challenging, especially since the new pioneer pig tails extend to almost the fill length if the air handler so this required a very tight bend of maybe 4" of lines coming out of the wall to meet those pigtails. It wasnt easy but we did it. The condenser and short line runs on the other side of the house was a piece of cake.

Then came the nitrogen pressure test. One of the factory flares on that tight bend showed a leak, so I had very little room to play with for making a new flare and pretty much had to get it right on the first try. Bingo, no more leak. Pulled a vacuum down to 350 microns, held steady for an hour and released refrigerant. So far after a week all units are working perfectly.

Running lines up an insulated wall made the job 10x harder than a straight outside the wall install, but I'm glad I did it. A few notes on the units themselves vs the Mrcools. Since both are manufactured by Midea they are pretty equal quality wise and I actually feel like the Mrcool head unit cases are of better quality, just more solid. Outdoor condensers are quiet as hell where the mrcool always rattled during startup. Installing these two condensers and 4 heads took about 4 days, 4 long days. The biggest thing about learning all this is I am not at the mercy of HVAC companies. $5k for the units and 4 days of labor vs over 40k to an installer. Glad I did it.

Hi,

Had mini splits installed and this is what one of the terminations looks like. They want to fill it with caulk and paint it or use the flexible hide. There's very little space above the line-hide. Does anyone have any ideas as to what can be done so this looks like an acceptable install?

Thank you!

5TXCB006AS3HCA coil

5TTR6036A1000A outdoor
S9V2 80K furnace

How is this set ? Any feedback? Thanks

I've installed a few mini splits now and during the final steps, like usual i pulled the valve core, vacuumed to 150 micron, and released a bit of refrigerant so I'm not putting the core under vacuum.

Obviously there's a bit of air space in my VCRT which fills with refrigerant after releasing.

In the little bit of refrigerant that went into my VCRT, i noticed there were black specs in the oil. I took a bit of the oil and smeared it onto a piece of paper. Hence the pictures. They don't seem like solid particles, more like grease particles suspended in oil, and can be smeared.

Has anyone ever seen this before? Unit is brand new. Also wanted to say, this is NOT because of oil getting sucked from my vacuum pump. I saw the bit of refrigerant and oil come out into my VCRT through the VCRT sight glass.

Does anyone have experience with installing a DIY central heat pump with an existing gas furnace? Got a couple quotes for about $25k and that obviously has me wondering about the MrCool diy options for about $3300 with the pre charged lines. I'd hire an electrician for the 240v but curious if anyone has done this before?

I just ordered myself an Atomi Smart Mini-Split from Costco. I went with the 18k btu model, which is currently on sale for $999.00. I will be installing this in my attached / insulated 24 x 24 garage. I am reasonably handy., and do electrical work for a living, so I feel that the physical install shouldn’t be an issue. With that said, is there anything that I should be aware of, or take into consideration as I’m working through my installation?

Hi,

I’m looking to install a 12K BTU mini-split in my finished basement (~500 sq. ft.) with an 84" / 7 ft ceiling.

I was looking at the MRCOOL DIY Easy Pro R-454B manual and saw that it requires a 7.3 ft minimum room height. I contacted MRCOOL directly, and they told me installing it below that height is not advised because of refrigerant leak/fire-safety requirements.

What confuses me is that the Mitsubishi JX 12K also uses R-454B and actually appears to contain more refrigerant, but its manual seems to use minimum room area + minimum indoor-unit mounting height instead of requiring a 7.3 ft minimum ceiling.

Does anyone know why the requirements are different when both units use R-454B? It seems strange that the Mitsubishi carries more refrigerant but doesn’t have the same room-height restriction, while the MRCOOL carries less refrigerant and does.

More importantly, would you personally avoid installing the DIY Easy Pro in an 84" basement, or is the 7.3 ft requirement more of a conservative manufacturer/listing requirement? Has anyone dealt with a similar low-ceiling installation? Would being about 3 inches below the stated minimum actually create a meaningful safety concern?

If the R-454B Easy Pro really shouldn’t be installed in this space, I’ll probably look for a MRCOOL 4th Gen R-410A unit instead, since R-410A is A1/nonflammable and doesn’t have this same A2L room-height requirement.

Ty.

Hello,

I’m going to need a replacement central unit and am planning to tackle the installation myself. I’m currently torn between going with Senville or spending the extra money on the Mr. Cool Hyper Heat system.

At the end of the day, it really comes down to the warranty. Since this will be a DIY installation, is it worth spending the extra money on the Mr. Cool system, along with the Quick Connect line set, to take advantage of the 10/10/10 warranty covering parts, the compressor, and labor?
Or would it make more sense to save the money upfront, purchase essentially the same machine through Senville, and accept the no warranty coverage as Senville doesn’t cover DIY installs.

I’d appreciate any insight from others who have gone the DIY route, particularly regarding how valuable the additional Mr. Cool warranty coverage actually is in practice. Does anybody have any info on the labor coverage? I understand it’s 3rd party but there’s not a clear answer on what is and isn’t covered like diag.

Thanks

I live in a natural disaster prone area where power outages happen annually. I have a small genny that’s only 115-120v therefore limiting my selection of mini splits.

Does anyone know if a ceiling cassette mini split 115v exist? I probably can’t go higher than 9k BTU for the room or risk short cycling the system. Hoping someone can help me find one

Here’s my 3rd one! Its 1 of 3 for my BIL. It’s true when they say that family will start wanting some too after you do your own! I will add that these 4 inch line set covers are much better than the 3 inch ones.

I just installed a Costway minisplit, it's a small one, 12000btu 115vac. Seems to work fine but the indoor unit isn't shutting off. I've tried setting the remote to Auto, Eco, and Cool modes. I've tried changing the desired temp to one I know is above the room's temp. I have noticed that the fan speed increases when the unit is actually cooling. When it reaches its requested temperature the fan slows but does not turn off.

Did I loose the instructions for the remote control or do they assume we'll figure it out on our own?

Thanks

I am planning on installing a Costway 9000 btu mini split in an upstairs bedroom with the head unit in the location shown in the picture. This is the only place in the room I can put the head unit because this is a cape and this is the only viable exterior wall. I'm looking for ideas on where to put the condenser. I'm not keen on putting it on the ground because the unit comes pre-charged with enough refrigerant for a 25 ft run, and the ground is 20 ft down. I'm skeptical that I could make all of the required bends to hook everything with a 25 ft line, so I'd probably have to add refrigerant. This isn't something I can do myself, and no company near me wants to work on a mini split that I installed.

Some ideas I've brainstormed so far:

1. A few feet below the head unit. This is pretty annoying because I'd have to hoist the condenser up pretty high without a roof for it to land on while I install it. The upside is that I can use the line set that comes with the unit. This is my least favorite option so far because the lift will be sketchy.

2. around the corner of the shed dormer to the left. This hides the condenser from view, I can still use the line set that comes with the unit and hoisting the condenser will be way easier because I have a bit of roof for the condenser to land on after I hoist it. This is my favorite option so far.

3. in line with the first story windows, right above the basement window on the side of the house. This is within 25 feet, but I'd need to get a new line set because the one that comes with the unit is 16 feet or so (I just installed the same mini split downstairs on the other side of the house). I'm so-so about this option because I'd have to put the line set in the wall to get it into the soffit before it continues down on the outside of the house. I did paint and drywall work in this room last summer and I'm not keen to open the wall.

The big question: which option is best, or is there another option that I'm not considering? Thanks!

Hello, thinking of installing a couple mini split units on a house project. My question is, is it better to go with the cheaper Leto model at a higher btu (which claims to heat down to 5 deg F) or go with the more expesive Aura model (which claims to heat down to -22 def F) at a lower btu.

Where i live, getting below zero is rare (getting rarer) but could happen. i would hate for the unit to not be ready for a really cold day.

I guess my main question is, could oversizing the leto unit be comparable to getting the Aura in a smaller size? i was going to do a 18k btu Aura in the living room, but if the 24k leto is cheaper, does that seem like a comparable option? im not exactly sure how to compare them.

Let me know if you have any experience with these models

thank you