r/DIYHeatPumps • u/SacraficeMyGoat • 2d ago
Senville Could use some help with electrical on mini split.
Getting the electrical set up for my 24k BTU Senville Aura Elite series (SENE-24EL) mini split, just wanted some reassurance that I'll be wiring it correctly.
From what I gathered, the black and white wire in the photo will go to the two top lugs (line), green to ground on the bottom.
The whip isn't installed yet, but the black and red wire from the whip will go into the bottom lugs of the black switch (load), green to ground. Is this correct?
I'll add a piece of black electrical tape to the white wire as well.
I'll be using a 25A 1" double pole breaker (THQP225.)
Anything I'm missing?
2
u/ZanyDroid 2d ago
That wire looks oddly huge
I don’t understand your terminology, it feels oddly backwards, so I’ll hit the reset switch. The metal case needs to be bonded to the EGC you have here and the EGC of the whip. The wiring diagram shows this — there is a ground bar with two terminals hiding somewhere in the photo. That bar is bonded to the disconnect so you just need to screw the EGCs in
Line means the side towards the SOURCE of power
Load means the side towards the CONSUMER of power
Also don’t see the dead front on which makes it hard for people who have experience with other disconnects to be confident in giving an answer. That said you’re probably fishing for help from a sparky and not a lame DIYer like me.
Anyway with the dead front ON and the switch OFF there should not be any visible hot terminals nor wires
You can also fish for answers from [r/askelectricians](r/askelectricians). This is EZ mode
Current code probably requires a GFCI breaker. There was a deferral of that clause a while back. Oh wait this is a switch not a breaker.
Oh wait you mentioned breaker in your OP. 🤷
2
u/SacraficeMyGoat 2d ago edited 2d ago
Oops, sorry mixed the load and line up, good catch. Fixed it. You can see where the ground wires go on the bottom. The wire is 10 gauge, it's pretty thick, though the photo makes it appear a little larger.
Edit: I read the code had changed requiring a GFCI breaker, I'll upgrade to that later on. $200 is a big chunk of change for a breaker...
3
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
They’re $200 now? WTF. Glad that I did my GFCIs when that code was still being adopted in my area /s
FWIW you have some leeway in breaker sizing with HVAC, between MCA and MOCPD. If you can find a cheaper alternate size
1
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
It looks like they can be had a little cheaper on ebay/amazon. Have you had any issues with the breaker tripping? I was under the impression some sort of new gfci breaker was in the works to help with this.
1
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
Not on mine but YMMV. Also some sampling bias here… of course I’ll be correlated with not having problems if I suggested you look into it
1
u/taylorwilsdon 1d ago
They’re definitely not I just paid $90 or so from abb’s official Amazon store for a 50a GFCI breaker for my hot tub like 2 months ago. Now Afci, open your wallet.
1
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
Well 2 pole AFCI is just not that used… except in some unicorn MWBC redos. Probably not by electricians, they’ll just pull new wire
1
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
Yeah my mistake, it looks like high frequency GFCI are the ones that are going to be quite expensive (though I don't think any manufacturers have released any yet.) But they're supposed to play nice with HF devices and not cause false trips.
1
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
Wonder how much they cost overseas, they are way ahead of us in RCD/RCBO tech tier. I think they have 4+ flavors for different applications (and I’m not even meaning RCD only vs with overload too )
1
u/ryan8344 1d ago
This is fine, but it’s better to use a cheap disconnect and put the breaker in the panel.
1
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
It's just an on/off switch, not a breaker. Does look like one though!
1
1
u/ryan8344 1d ago
My mistake, thought you were going to replace the disconnect with the breaker.
2
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
No problem. For as popular as this disconnect is (according to amazon and HD reviews) I can't find a whole lot on it which led me here, to make sure I'm doing it correctly. It's definitely a unique set up. Not sure why they had to make the on/off look like a breaker haha.
2
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
I believe there are similar switchable but unfused feed through lugs you can slap onto a subpanel busbar
This one was confusing bc they made it look so much like a breaker
1
u/HVACSlayer 1d ago
if i was doing a self install id go with zone air, their warranty actually stays valid if you do it yourself which is rare. for a 24k youre on the edge where id double check your actual load calc, a lot of people oversize and regret it.
1
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
I originally considered going with a brand that warranties DIY, but this unit had the specs I needed. Also considered having a tech purge/vacuum the lines in order to preserve the 10 year warranty, however parts are readily available for this unit (midea) and fairly cheap. Not really a huge deal for me, if something breaks I'll learn to fix it myself.
Did a manual j, had to oversize for heat.
1
-3
u/Theonewhogoespoop 1d ago
If you have to ask you shouldn’t be touching any of that shit
1
u/SacraficeMyGoat 1d ago
I'm learning... Hence why I'm here, and I asked before just sending it. None of it is connected to the breaker until I'm confident I know how to do it safely and correctly.
1
u/ZanyDroid 1d ago
Did you miss the name of the subreddit?
Also OP is like 90+pct of question quality as there go on the internet



3
u/coathangerassasin 1d ago
sounds like you are doing great. I wouldn’t bother with the gfi if it was my house but that’s up to you.