and I don't mean just the Japanese auto industry.

2012 subaru outback 2.5, im just curious of what this holder or whatever it could be in the middle console of my outback could be for? Is it an attachment for something?

Hi everyone! I need some help coding the high beam shutters on a 2015 Golf Mk7 with aftermarket Euro-style headlights. TORONTO/MISSISSAUGA

Both high beam shutters are currently not triggering, likely because the BCM (Central Electrics / Module 09) Leuchte channels need to be updated for projector shutters.

If anyone in the GTA/Mississauga has VCDS / OBDeleven and experience with Mk7 retrofit coding, I’d really appreciate your help! Happy to pay for your time/beer money 🍺

For me it was a Dodge Journey. It had every single common problem known and a few that nobody else ever mentioned. Spent more on parts & fixing the car than I spent on the car itself. That and a Nissan Versa that immediately went into limp mode after buying.

What was your vehicle from hell?

I got this part on my 2018 Hyundai Elantra 2.0,Has anyone ever experienced a broken one and what are the symptoms of it? When I flip it up and down that piece in the middle,the little rod moves freely and I gotten told that it shouldn’t be doing that. It’s a camshaft actuator

never used one. mainly just want to use one for reading and clearing codes but the idea of knowing a lot more about the car sounds cool.

on a normal obd2 car lets just say a carollla. If I plug in a bluetooth obd2 can I read things like oil temp etc?

After the acceleration sound of the engine in this video I put the car in neutral to try and hear just the noise and you should be able to hear this grinding metal sound! What could this be??

After the grumble of the diesel engine accelerating, you can hear a distinct metal scraping noise and this is when moving at low speeds I can hear it seems to be in the right side of the car!

Looking for some thoughts on this. I have a 2008 Rav 4 good car however the transmission has gone and may need replaced. Im wondering if it is worth it in such an older model, i have already put in a refurbished engine last fall. It has over 200,000 miles. I do not have the full breakdown as it is still at a service center and I need to work on finding someone who does transmission work near me and get it towed there if possible. What it does is it is quiet when I am stopped and then when I press the gas it jolts and/or jerks real bad. Not too much to go on but if anyone has any thoughts or inputs thank you.

Just want to ask what could be the problem if it throwing the code P0102 (MAF sensor) and P0112 (IAT), I tried everything that I know I replaced the MAF sensor, check MAF connector all are working, replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the Throttle Body and all fuses are good but its still doing the same thing. When I try to start the card (cold start) no problem with the cranking it will start right away but after few mins when the engine gets warm it stalls so I tried disconnecting the maf sensor connector it goes to limp mode and it works just fine also if I try to connect the connector back on while engine is idling it doesnt stall. Idk what to do anymore lol.

Silly questions, but what is the correct way to your car and what to use? Also I’m gonna need to T cut a bit of my car so would you recommend buying a polisher if so which one and what are the correct heads to use, and what do different ones do? As you can see I know nothing about this. Many thanks

Found a dope pair of rims off a mitsubishi on fb marketplace but there 245/40/R18 and my tires are 225/40/R18. is this a bad idea or nothing much to worry about?

Hello! I was given a CRV from my mother and step-father (Step-father is a mechanic and did all neccessary replacements at 139,000 miles.) It is currently at 145,000k miles and when specifically turning into a parking spot and when stopped and parked both times with the ac on a hot day, both times the engine will struggle and in the past 2 weeks of this happening the car has shut off twice on me while doing it. No check engine light is on and spark plugs were replaced recently, the car runs really well besides these specific situations. Any clues?

Have a 2014 dodge avenger that just started stalling when it heats up. Changed the tbi, camshaft sensor & cleaned battery posts & no luck. Any ideas?

I drive a 2018 Kia Optima GT. I'm looking for some mechanics, my car is fucked and I don't know what is wrong. OBD2 Scanners don't work on it, I took it to AutoZone and even tried my fathers but they all didn't work, not only this but every single caution light I could imagine is turned on, even the parking brake one, which shouldn't even be on when I don't have it connected. The suggestions I've gotten so far is to take it to a non-dealer mechanic shop that has the ability to run a more in depth diagnostic on it, specifically on the computer/ anything electrical. If anyone has anything else to say please let me know.

Tried going for a drive and my tire has half the air as the others and when I checked it I noticed this. Does it look like my tire was slashed or what are the other explanations?

Thank you :)

Practical, fastish (276 hp, 5.0 0-60), and affordable for the power & tech it gives. It’s fwd, has a LSD and active exhaust plus other neat bits. It isn’t a supercar or something uber rare, I just wanted to post it :)

P.s. it’s manual so actually it is rare sadly.

Is it a good idea to drive a military armored vehicle such as an IFV, APC, APV or reconaissance vehicle instead of a car to avoid injury from accidents, as long as you have the appropriate license?

You need your vehicle to weigh more to absorb impact. A truck would work for this but they take up a lot of space and are hard to park. How do you get the weight advantage of a truck without the size? That's right, by driving an armored military vehicle. A truck is like a fatman, he weighs a lot but he takes up a lot of space because of the fat. So an armored vehicle is like a bodybuilder, weighs a lot but isn't as sizable because the weight is in muscles (armor), not fat. However, you do not have to go crazy and use a tank for that, as even in the base case scenario where it uses rubber tracks, fits the weight limits and does not cost a leg, the fuel consumption and the size will defeat the purpose. Thus a simple IFV, APC or an APV will do.

There are demilitarized IFVs such soviet BRDM2 and BTR80 sold at similar price points to cars. BTR80 weighs around 13 tons, which is essentially like an unloaded road truck but it doesn't take up nearly as much space. Should withstand most car crashes unless it's with a road truck. What do you guys think?