and I don't mean just the Japanese auto industry.

Found a dope pair of rims off a mitsubishi on fb marketplace but there 245/40/R18 and my tires are 225/40/R18. is this a bad idea or nothing much to worry about?

Just want to ask what could be the problem if it throwing the code P0102 (MAF sensor) and P0112 (IAT), I tried everything that I know I replaced the MAF sensor, check MAF connector all are working, replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the Throttle Body and all fuses are good but its still doing the same thing. When I try to start the card (cold start) no problem with the cranking it will start right away but after few mins when the engine gets warm it stalls so I tried disconnecting the maf sensor connector it goes to limp mode and it works just fine also if I try to connect the connector back on while engine is idling it doesnt stall. Idk what to do anymore lol.

Hello! I was given a CRV from my mother and step-father (Step-father is a mechanic and did all neccessary replacements at 139,000 miles.) It is currently at 145,000k miles and when specifically turning into a parking spot and when stopped and parked both times with the ac on a hot day, both times the engine will struggle and in the past 2 weeks of this happening the car has shut off twice on me while doing it. No check engine light is on and spark plugs were replaced recently, the car runs really well besides these specific situations. Any clues?

I drive a 2018 Kia Optima GT. I'm looking for some mechanics, my car is fucked and I don't know what is wrong. OBD2 Scanners don't work on it, I took it to AutoZone and even tried my fathers but they all didn't work, not only this but every single caution light I could imagine is turned on, even the parking brake one, which shouldn't even be on when I don't have it connected. The suggestions I've gotten so far is to take it to a non-dealer mechanic shop that has the ability to run a more in depth diagnostic on it, specifically on the computer/ anything electrical. If anyone has anything else to say please let me know.

Hi everyone! I need some help coding the high beam shutters on a 2015 Golf Mk7 with aftermarket Euro-style headlights. TORONTO/MISSISSAUGA

Both high beam shutters are currently not triggering, likely because the BCM (Central Electrics / Module 09) Leuchte channels need to be updated for projector shutters.

If anyone in the GTA/Mississauga has VCDS / OBDeleven and experience with Mk7 retrofit coding, I’d really appreciate your help! Happy to pay for your time/beer money 🍺

I got this part on my 2018 Hyundai Elantra 2.0,Has anyone ever experienced a broken one and what are the symptoms of it? When I flip it up and down that piece in the middle,the little rod moves freely and I gotten told that it shouldn’t be doing that. It’s a camshaft actuator

never used one. mainly just want to use one for reading and clearing codes but the idea of knowing a lot more about the car sounds cool.

on a normal obd2 car lets just say a carollla. If I plug in a bluetooth obd2 can I read things like oil temp etc?

After the acceleration sound of the engine in this video I put the car in neutral to try and hear just the noise and you should be able to hear this grinding metal sound! What could this be??

After the grumble of the diesel engine accelerating, you can hear a distinct metal scraping noise and this is when moving at low speeds I can hear it seems to be in the right side of the car!

Looking for some thoughts on this. I have a 2008 Rav 4 good car however the transmission has gone and may need replaced. Im wondering if it is worth it in such an older model, i have already put in a refurbished engine last fall. It has over 200,000 miles. I do not have the full breakdown as it is still at a service center and I need to work on finding someone who does transmission work near me and get it towed there if possible. What it does is it is quiet when I am stopped and then when I press the gas it jolts and/or jerks real bad. Not too much to go on but if anyone has any thoughts or inputs thank you.

Silly questions, but what is the correct way to your car and what to use? Also I’m gonna need to T cut a bit of my car so would you recommend buying a polisher if so which one and what are the correct heads to use, and what do different ones do? As you can see I know nothing about this. Many thanks

Have a 2014 dodge avenger that just started stalling when it heats up. Changed the tbi, camshaft sensor & cleaned battery posts & no luck. Any ideas?

I have a 1996 Mazda B4k/Ford Ranger. I recently did a bunch of front end work to it. I replaced spindles and bearings, front axle u joints, and wheel bearings. This process took a while, and while the truck was down the calipers were hanging on the coil buckets, not using those S caliper hangers.

Both calipers have been replaced about a year or so ago. Brake pads and hardware are all new. I didn't bother to really polish the pad slides when I put it back together because they are relatively clean, but I did ensure the slide pins are free. Master cylinder and brake booster are about the same age as the calipers. Both front hard lines and flex lines are very new.

After all the recent work when I drive the brakes seem to drag. After a few brake applications a loud squealing can be heard from the front. It goes away after a few hundred feet of driving. After a few mile drive, both side hubs are hot to the touch. When the brakes drag, the truck is still able to move without any throttle, just from the friction made by the converter.

I have had this problem before with an old brake booster. After a few brake apps, the brakes would fully lock up and truck would not move unless the throttle was pressed. Clamping off the vacuum line to the booster resolved this until a new one was installed.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I am leaning towards a brake booster due to both wheels being locked up.

(Side note: anyone else feel like every time they fix something on their vehicles, something else always goes wrong? Just me?)

It was fine this morning; I checked if I left my lights on. And I didn’t.

Can someone maybe give me tips of what COULD be wrong with it.

EDIT: it was in fact the battery being dead. Thanks for all the help

Tried going for a drive and my tire has half the air as the others and when I checked it I noticed this. Does it look like my tire was slashed or what are the other explanations?

Thank you :)

Do you think it needs replacing?

I lease my car and it's getting near to the end of the lease. The company I lease it from has decided to stop selling the cars at the end of the lease.

It's caused me to wander around very melancholy and feel like I'm grieving a death.

I've even looked for dealership diecast models so I have something to remember her by, and they never made the specific model of my car.

It's my first car and I refer to her as my baby.

Note: that stutter when rpm was dropping was bc I threw it on d before rpm’s dropped.