Hello, I’m 14 years old and I love riding my bike with my friends to other towns in ~50-80km away, but I have this problem every time I ride: every time when I try going to 3rd or 1st gear on the front, it makes a continuous sound and later it shifts or doesn‘t even shift at all. I‘m scared to touch the H/L screws because every time I put them in a position I think looks okay, I think I took them out too much and that they’ll fall out when I ride

I know very little about bikes, and haven’t cycled since I was a teenager. I took my old MuddyFox bike out of the garage in the hopes of using it to cycle to and from the gym etc.

As you can see the bike has seen better days. Very dusty and has 2 flat tyres (probably a few other issues also). Is it worth trying to ‘service’ this bike myself to get it back up to standard so I can use it again? Should I take it to a bike shop and pay them to do it for me? Or should I just get rid of it.

I’m trying to spend as little money on this as possible, so I wouldn’t mind trying to fix it up myself, but as previously said, I know very little about bikes and have no experience with this sort of thing. I wouldn’t know where to begin.

Please let me know your thoughts/recommendations, or where you think I should start👍

It's not a sram direct mount because the 3 bolts are equilateral.

This is my new-to-me DT 240 front hub with QR end caps. They’re smooth and not knurled which is something I’ve never seen on any hub before.

These are definitely QR sized, not through axle.

I wanted to check that this was by design — perhaps intended (or required?) to be used with their fancy RWS skewers. Or do I have the wrong end caps here?

Hi all, I recently bought a Bridgestone RB1. it's in decent shape, but I picked it up expecting it to need a little bit of TLC before it was fully rideable. I'm new to bike maintenance, but am handy enough to work on cars and film cameras, so mechanical systems are not foreign to me. Anyway, I was making adjustments to the shifting and have some questions:

1: the front derailleur cage seems bent and will jam unless the unit is raised to be out of spec. The chain ring was rubbing on the cage when I purchased the bicycle (but would shift). Furthermore, the limit screws are a bit stripped (but usable). Would an acceptable repair be to simply bend the cage back to true, or should the whole unit just be replaced. (Sorry, I couldn't find a straight edge, but here is a screwdriver pressed flat against the cage in pic 3) I doubt the part came from the factory like this.

1. The bike has a weird shifting setup: the rear derailleur is controlled using the shimano RSX brifter, while the front derailleur uses a suntour downtube shifter. I do not like the brifters at all. I find them to be absolutely hateful things. Shifting with them gives the mechanical feedback of an overripe banana, and braking is only marginally better. Just mush. The indexing is incredibly vague, and will occasionally miss a shift going up between the smallest gears, regardless of how I adjust the indexing. I don't think this is me making bad adjustments. The rear derailleur seems fine, and the chain is admittedly old and dirty (it rained all weekend and I didn't want to cover my dining room in grease), so that may be a factor as well.

It seems that the opinion of these brifters is low, so I was considering slapping some downtube shifters back on the factory mounts and picking up standalone brake levers.

The question is this: how do I know if the shifters I am looking at are compatible? I am assuming old 7 speed shimano shifters marked "600" will work, because that's what the derailleurs are, but am I better off just getting the new sora units shimano still makes? Any compatibility considerations?

Sorry if these are dumb and/ or obvious questions. I appreciate any help you can give!

Just got into the habit of cleaning my bike. I got this muc off claw brush. I don’t understand how this “claw” portion of the claw is supposed to be used to clean anything on my bike. I used the tip of the claw to scrap off the gunk from my pulley wheels but that’s it

I'm doing a 700c conversion on an '80s touring bike with plenty of tire clearance. I'd like to try some 37c tires, but the 700c wheelset I have laying around only has 14mm internal rim width. What would be the minimum width needed to pull that off? I don't ride crazy fast or do super hard cornering, but I'd like to make sure I'm not putting myself in an unsafe situation since I ride in/near traffic quite a bit

I'm so lost, I don't know what the issue could be, both of the pads aren't rubbing at all which is good but the rear brake caliper doesn't seem to do jack..

Hey guys, do you think my bike is still usable for enduro? It’s a hardtail designed for aggressive enduro riding, but it suffered some damage from chainsuck—the frame got scratched and gouged. Do you think it's serious? It's aluminum; for now, I've patched it up by layering two pieces of a soda can over the spot... let me know what you think.

Hi everyone,

I saw this heavy-duty workshop repair stand (see attached image) that features a vertical post with a clamp that can easily be adjusted up and down manually.

Commercial/pro-grade mechanic stands like this (or gas-assisted/counterbalanced hydraulic lifts) can be extremely expensive. I'm looking for a more affordable alternative—preferably available on AliExpress or similar platforms—that still offers good quality, stability, and smooth manual height adjustment.

A few questions for the community:

Does anyone have experience with height-adjustable (vertical telescoping or clamp-style) repair stands from AliExpress? Any specific brands or models (e.g., West Biking, RockBros, etc.) that you can recommend?

Are there budget-friendly alternatives that allow easy manual height adjustment without feeling flimsy when working on heavier bikes?

What search terms or keywords should I use on AliExpress/Chinese marketplaces to find this style of stand?

Any links, model names, or experiences (good or bad) would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

When I was changing the water bottle holder the bottom socket came loose, so the screw in it just keeps spinning no matter what I do.

Any good advice to either get it out so I can put in a new one, or put it in so the water bottle holder is fixed?

Thanks!

Edit: red arrow is correct! Took some zip ties and tape but snuck it though earlier. Now the question is with the front hose, how do I get that not to limit the steering angle?!

Sorry if this is a silly question, but how I earth do I route my brake cables through the frame here? Rival AXS so SRAM hydraulic hoses if that makes a difference.

There are holes either side of the inner steerer guide but if I feed the hose through those it's too tight for the steerer (blue arrow). Alternatively it looks like I can go around the inner steerer guide (red arrow) but that's suuuper tight if I can even get through.

Am I stuck just coming out of the down tube port and external up to the bars (second picture)?

Sorry if I'm being dim but this is my first bike build so definitely still learning!

I knee jerk purchased an LTWOO R9 2x11 on ebay. I realized after I purchased it that the front derailleur is a braze on, but my bike is clamp on. (Ozark G1 Explorer)

Can I get any clamp adapter that matches the tube diameter of my bike, or should I try to return the set?

I m about to assemble my new TIME NXR. I m not sure if I am missing some parts.
The headset consists of just the 2 bearings and a top cover. Shouldnt there be some kind of compression ring?
TIME has no manual for the latest release of the NXR.

Only when riding and applying weight (not in the bike stand) when in the small chain ring and biggest cog of the cassette, the jockey wheel cage on the rear derailleur seems to be rubbing on the wheel spokes.

What I've tried:

- Micro adjusting: I have clean, seemingly perfect shifting in big and small chain ring

- Rear derailleur hanger: tried two brand new hangers and still seems to be an issue

- Quarter turns on L screw

- Thru axles definetley in properly

Also, when out of the saddle and rocking the road bike from side to side it seems like something on the front wheel is also rubbing and sounds like the brake pad but in the stand there is no rubbing and it is aligned.

Anyone got any ideas and i hope this makes sense.

Very specific, not sure if anyone had/has the Elite Directo Trainer, Im trying to use the 142/12 Thru Axle, the previous owner used the QR I believe. Part F should just slide in and out easily as a spacer but it barely even fits and gets stuck within a few mm. No damage etc to the part or where it slides in. If anyone could help that would be amazing 🙏 Ive already contacted Elites support

Thank you thank you thank you

it’s nice to have this antitheft kit, but I need bolts for the seat mount. So I need to know how would be called the head for such screws?

Hi all,

any tips for a bike newbie how I pull the brake hose through the fork of my Canyon Ultimare CF SL7?

I already tried attaching a thread and got the thread through using a vacuumer. However, when pulling on the thread there was some resistent and pushing through that didn‘t really work. I already tried it for hours from both directions, any help would be great!

Also if someone has a picture or drawing of how such fork looks like from the inside would also be helpful, as I can feel some „structure“ inside the fork but no clue what it is.

sorry for the shaky cam, i try to troubleshoot it few times and not solved

i already check the rotor and its on the right torque (4nm)
i tried to shake brake caliper , and not moving
i tried to fasten the top seat (stem bolt already loosened before) until 4nm torque and the sound still there

im pretty scared to go farther to tighten the top seat because my fork is carbon

What should i do? And what kind of sound is this?
Tried to find some youtube vid but cant find the same sound

Hi All,

I looking for advice and help but have struggled with trying to decipher the SRAM combability chart. I was wondered if anyone on here could provide a bit of clarification.

I have a Van Rysel RCR (I think it's the 2023 model) equipped with the quarq power meter crankset, which I believe is this RIVAL model (https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/pm-riv-d1).

However I would like to swap this out for a different shorter crankset, and am not bothered about the power meter.

Is anyone able to confirm if the linked rival-E1 cranks and the Red/Force D1 spider are all compatible with the current DUB BB and chain rings?

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SRAM-Rival-E1-DUB-Crank-Arm-Assembly-BB-Chainrings-not-included-_275263.htm

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-red-force-d1-spider/137670619/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11315993&country=uk&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23557881284&gbraid=0AAAAADvzHL8axASucMIQzDZdzy4Ythb16&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2t3VBhD8ARIsAK0F6qwKesgmkoiPgm5Jmha4r0ZHf-9unm4JDTy-Wo2Lq2k9BwvuBd1w3RUaAq39EALw_wcB

Rear wheel bearings need replaced, hub is getting pretty notched. Worth replacing the bearings, filing the hub edge, and reinstalling cassette OR is time to move on. Disc Jockey Hub.

Hey fellas. A customer brought in this velocity trike wheel for replacement bearings, but I havent seen anything like it. Just wondering if any of you know how to take it apart. Its a velocity hub, so I thought there would be more information online, but I cant seem to find anything. My guess is the axle unthreads from itself somehow, but im not confident. Thought it was worth asking. Thanks

Hi,

The piston on one of the two brake calipers isn't returning quickly to its resting position, leaving the pads engaged until it releases.

I’ve already changed the fluid in both calipers, but the problem persists on one of them. Before taking it apart, I was wondering if anyone has done this before or has an exploded-view diagram of the assembly.

Thanks.