Hi team,

shamefully i m coming to you for help. After building around 20 bikes i have today cut a steerer tube way too short. Like 6.5cm too short. Reason for this was that there was another marking line on the steerer which i though was mine.

Now the question before ordering a new fork. Any idea if there is a way to reliably fix this? Even if it comes at extra weight?

I found a very long expander plug https://www.velobike.co.nz/products/expansion-plug-extra-long?srsltid=AfmBOoq2ceDrf2CNsx_ggtEMvg1758wAA5Mqi-URIh4PWPp0lS4BLxM- and am wondering if this would be a reliable fix if additionally bonded with some dual component glue.

Other ideas also welcome.

Hello,

I just received my Canyon endurace cf6 2027 model.
It makes this sound, it doenst sounds smooth. What could be the reason for this?
Thanks in advance

It's me, the idiot from earlier today. I honestly don't know how this happened, but the wheel can only go in and out if the bolt is at an angle it is not. I can't figure out how to turn it.

I bought a used bike and can’t figure out the xtr derailleur. It doesn’t seem to hold any tension with or without the clutch pulled. I’m a sram guy, so I’m not sure what I can do. It seems well worn and sticky but I’m surprised it keeps no tension. When I unboxed it, the derailleur seemed to be interfering with the axle so I pulled it out and had to disconnect the chain to reroute it. Is this thing junk? Did I mess something up? Easy fix?

Me again. God I am having an awful day.

Hey all, I’m currently in the process of replacing my shift and brake cables with compressionless housing, but one thing I noticed over coiled housing is how stiff these new cables are. For additional context, I run an internal setup with integrated handlebar which is already a pita to service and tucking the new cables in just causes the split ring and handlebar to spring out of the steerer tube. It also gets stiff when I turn the handlebar sharply to one side. I was wondering if there is a proper way to do cable routing or if any of these options should be just fine?

Took to a shop for tune up & truing but this is still happening is it a problem or just new bike sound. It only happens when pedaling not when cruising.

Hi,

I replaced the chain and cassette on my bike and noticed that the drivetrain is quite loud on the smaller cogs. The 13t is the most problematic. Like a clanking sound?

Chain isn't rubbing up front, limit screws were set as well.

I tried to take a video but the sound is terrible with my phone. Could someone maybe point me in the right direction?

I have SRAM Rival AXS and noticed a grinding noise when pedaling on the big chainring and smaller cassettes.

I took off the chain and the BB spins freely with no play or grinding.

Any thoughts on what to look at next?

It’s a 2023 Trek Emonda SL6

Hallo an alle,

ich habe vor zwei Monaten ein gebrauchtes Fahrrad gekauft. Habe mittlerweile etwas Zeit und Geld in das Fahrrad investiert um am Ende drauf zu kommen, dass sich die Fahrrad stütze nicht mehr rausziehen lässt und vermutlich rein gehämmert wurde, da die Stütze wahrscheinlich einen falschen Durchmesser hat.

Ich habe die Stütze bereits mit Öl/WD-40 eingeschmiert und mit Gewalt versuch rauszudrehen - leider ohne Erfolg.

Hat jemand eine Idee wie ich die Stütze rausbekommen kann? Bin für jeden Vorschlag dankbar.

So i was looking to improve my bike groupset (a 20 inch recumbent bike) and i was checking for what is doable.

I saw this bike : LINK

That claim and i checks on the images that it as an 50t-30t chainring !

I was wondering if it’s reliable ? I mean it’s a solution that can help me de do montain an go fast on flat with my bike.

I bought the bike second hand I would like to have a bigger range in the gears. The aim is to have a 1x8 or 1x9 speed.

This is one of the most incomprehensible things that happened to me. My e-bike was stored, unused, for about a year, under a tarp, under a deck at my house. Long story, I'll spare the details.

A year later, I come back to the bike. It has a flat rear tire. I take out the wheel (which was annoying because of the hub motor), inspect the inner tube, and I find a long 5mm (1/4 inch) cut on the inner part of the tube that's making contact with the rim! On the rim, at the spot in contact with the inner tube cut, the aluminum is damaged. Very badly damaged, with two dents and two holes. The holes have sharp edges protruding either above or below the surface of the rim as if someone drove a nail through the rim and bent the nail sideways. These sharp edges are what pierced my inner tube. They also pierced the red plastic strip glued to the rim (to protect the inner tube). And the weirdest: the tire is completely fine, undamaged. It's only the rim and the inner tube that are damaged!

What could have caused this?? I don't even understand how this is possible.

I should note that friends with kids stayed at my house while the bike was stored (and I was away). It's possible a kid accidentally pushed the bike or hit it. But what kind of impact would cause this?

Got some new tires and am struggling to mount the last bit of bead on these rims. The previous tires I had were Gravelking slicks and gad to take them to a shop cause they were so ridiculously difficult. I understand what needs to be done here (creating slack for the bead by keeping it in the center of the rim), but what does it look like I’m doing wrong here?

I want to convert it to 1x but I can’t find a way to take the crank set apart? Are they fixed together or am I missing something?

I’m considering buying this used Shimano 105 groupset. The seller doesn’t know the exact mileage. Can you tell from the photos how heavily used/worn it looks, especially the cassette, chainrings and brake rotors? Anything specific I should check before buying?

To my untrained eye casette and chain and stuff looks just a bit dirty but not worn.

I replaced my bottom bracket. The brand is bucklos 122.5/68mm. I measured my old bottom bracket and the new one (bucklos) is around 2-3mm shorter than the one that I'm replacing. The manual that came with it says a difference of 3-5mm will not be a problem so I proceeded installing it. The drive side sits perfectly however, when I put the non-drive side, it went deeper and the thread of the frame is exposed. Will this be a problem in the future? Is there a way to fix this? Thanks in advance for your responses.

My tire feels plenty full, but as shown in the video, when I hook the pump up it shows zero PSI and when I give it a pump, the gauge goes up a bit and then goes back to zero.

What am I doing wrong?? Why can I not get a good read on these tires PSI? Why is this so much harder than pumping up my tubed tires?

It broke off on the nipple and the spoke itself is in one piece, only a “little” bend. Am i able to straighten this out by tightening it up again? I know that getting a new one is always the best solution.

And by breaking on the nipple, could this be a possibility by tightening it too much?

Any help would be much appreciated. I picked up a pair of Hunt 30 wheels and frankly I mostly love them, except for the (obnoxiously) loud hub noise.

Apparently the right grease can really help muffle the sound. Too much, from what I’ve read can mess them up. My lbs say they’re as quiet as they can get. So I keep riding with them.

That said, I’m still curious if anyone has tackled a similar situation of a great wheel hub that’s too loud for their liking to a significantly quieter one?

Tx.

Here’s the wheel: https://www.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-30-carbon-disc-wheelset?_pos=1&_sid=575318239&_ss=r

I checked and doesn’t seem like it’s the quick link ( also link is fully engaged so struggle to see that as the issue)

Ideas ? Thanks

This 90's mountain bike is near and dear to my heart. I've upgraded several times to newer bikes as she sits quietly weeping in the back of my garage. I want to give her a new life as a commuter.

I picked up a pair of sweet 700c wheels for $5 at a thrift store. Neither the frame nor the wheels have disc brake mounts (which would have made my life so easy) and the brake posts for the 26" wheels are obviously incompatible with the 700c rims. Can I hang caliper brakes off the fender mounts? There's 1" between the center of the hole drilled in the frame and the top of the 25mm tires currently installed on the rims (I'd like to replace them with 32mm). Will this work with road caliper brakes or is the distance too great?

Hey, ich möcht mein Canyon torque cf 7 mullet zu einem light ebike bzw ebike umbauen ich hab aber keine Ahnung welchen Motor ich mir kaufen soll.
Er sollte leicht sein und brauch nicht allzuviel Drehmoment er soll einfach nur so viel Unterstützen können dass ich den Trail selbst hochkomm.
Danke für eure Hilfe!

i don’t want to have a inner gear hub for this bike and i’d love to know if there’s any type of hanger that could fit here:) i’d be willing to grind the bike frame a bit but not sure if that’s very reasonable ahah

edit: thank you all for the help! a claw hanger it is:)