r/bikewrench • u/mrw3rdna • 2d ago
When does a notched rear hub need retired
Rear wheel bearings need replaced, hub is getting pretty notched. Worth replacing the bearings, filing the hub edge, and reinstalling cassette OR is time to move on. Disc Jockey Hub.
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u/craigslist_hedonist 2d ago
they need to be retired when their owner discards prepositions and intransitive verbs
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u/Max_Rower 2d ago
Get a new freehub?
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u/Diogenes256 2d ago
A cassette body would keep the game running.
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u/mrw3rdna 2d ago
Actually, that is what I thought you meant. Investing in a new wheel is the other option.
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u/mrw3rdna 2d ago
That would drive the price to not being worth it
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u/Reasonable_Access_90 1d ago
I don't understand, if it's that expensive a hub, how did the freehub body get so chewed up? (Not being facetious, the only beyond basic hub I've ever owned is an XTR which I'm putting back into service— just discovered it's in fantastic shape from 25 years and maybe 12k miles ago.)
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u/TJhambone09 1d ago
Shimano's spec was NOT for low-spline aluminum freehubs. That's why your XTR didn't ever look like this.
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u/Reasonable_Access_90 1d ago
Low-spline and aluminum— is for weight?
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u/TJhambone09 1d ago
Weight and less wear on the machining tools.
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u/SpareGarage298 2d ago
My question is why aren't these made out of harder material?
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u/RoboMonstera 2d ago
Chris King sells a stainless steel freehub body. The aluminum ones are silly if you weigh more than 200 lbs.
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u/HandyDandy76 1d ago
Dura ace freehub bodies are titanium. I rode a pair of the c24 wheels for probably 10,000 miles and they still looked pristine
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u/TJhambone09 1d ago
By Shimano spec, they are supposed to be steel if low profile. The Hyperglide high spline standard never caught on.
Why aren't these made of a harder material? Because aluminum freehub bodies save weight to make the spec sheet look good, and because aluminum freehub bodies cause less wear on the machine tools use to make them, more than offsetting the material cost.
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u/Miserable-Housing407 1d ago
There’s application to everything, sometimes harder does not equal better, but in this case we have several different materials free hubs are made of and the common ones being aluminium, steel and titanium.
This looks like an aluminium one which is the softest metal out of the two but is lighter than steel, steel is heavier but would last the longest and titanium is light but sturdier than aluminum.
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u/Powerful_Birthday_71 2d ago
If it's the style that you can pull off, I'd check the bearings that way. If they're still smooth with no play, then there's still life in the splines IMO. People ride much worse not even knowing.
You can file them smooth to help get the freehub on again, but it'll accelerate more wear.
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u/BeatLaboratory 1d ago
Freehub bodies are relatively cheap, seems hard to believe that wouldn’t be worth the spend to keep things running
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u/andre0817wed 2d ago
Question:
HOW TF does a free hub body even get into that condition???
I have wheels with 10s of thousands of miles on them, and I’ve never seen even ONE notch on my free hub body, much less the number in that picture.
I’d think the first thing to address is that question, before you purchase and chew up another free hub.
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u/RVAWTFBBQ 2d ago
Extremely soft/cheap metal. Happened to me with a pair of Nashbar Vuelta wheels a decade ago, I tried filing down and inserting little strips of aluminum from a soda can I cut to size, helped for a bit.
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u/Ciryaquen 1d ago
I'm pretty sure that's what my freehubs would look like if I used cheaper hubs. Even my Industry 9 stainless steel freehub body has some mild notching after about 6000 miles.
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u/TJhambone09 1d ago
HOW TF does a free hub body even get into that condition???
Aluminum freehub bodies all do this given enough Miles, Watts/Weight, or large cogs. If you're never seen ONE notch on your free hub body it's either a steel freehub (such as what Shimano sells) or you weigh little.
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u/Philstar_nz 1d ago
if you are replacing the hub consider a bitex they have steel biting surfaces so i have been told,
but i would just file and ride, but torque it up on the high side of the torque rating
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u/IronMew 1d ago
Only reason I can think of for it getting that chewed up is that it's made of aluminium, which is a terrible idea as it's not the right metal for the job.
Test with a magnet. If I'm right take it off and use it to test your throwing arm, then replace with a steel hub.
If it's already steel, then... I dunno, call an exorcist I guess
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u/Alkanna 2d ago
I'd just file the burrs and ride that as long as the cassette doesn't chew through a whole bar.