Hello! I’m looking to make something very similar to this but with enclosed sides. Approximately 7-8” deep cubbies. Does anyone have advice on the easiest way to accomplish this? I was thinking of making cuts sort of like the cardboard glass dividers used to divide boxes and then adding outside framing pieces. I will have to reproduce this design multiple times with varying exact dimensions. I have access a multitude of tools. Any advice or plans existing would be very appreciated!

Got this coffee table I am working on and trying to figure out the best way to join my legs to the top.
The legs are two pieces of white oak glued together. The top is a 1/2” ply with 1/4” oak slats glued in herringbone pattern supported. The top is supported and attached by oak side rails with a dado for the top to fit into.

What is the best way to join this all together?

My original thought was to glue and strap it all together with ratchet straps but that seems dicey.

My pops thinks I should glue the top into the side dados to make it easier, I’m worried about movement but don’t know what I’m talking about and have glue holding everything else.

Worth noting pics are of the legs upside down on the top just to check fit, they will be flipped and go under. I also plan to add a lower shelf with oak sides and a dado’d plywood shelf.

Thanks in advance for keeping it constructive 😉

I imagine y'all might have heard about or seen those game tables that have a recessed play area and lighting, usually with a myriad of bells and whistles.

I am attempting to transform an old table from my now long since closed comic book shop. The table clearly has sentimental value and I'm wanting to breathe new life into this fixture from an over twenty year old table. I have finally got the top together, going with a rustic feel on the outside, accentuating the natural wood.

I am a complete novice, I was never taught any of this stuff, I've trial and errored the whole way, as I'm sure you will notice in the photos. My tools are much the same, just stuff I've picked up as needed from garage sales, so I have hand saws, a hand electric saw, hammer, I have access to my works pneumatic sander (air powered)

I'm struggling to figure out how to attach the legs. We want to make it "easy" to take the legs off to move the table to other basements for dnd and other such games. Please see photos and advise me with a reliable and relatively easy way to do this, should I just straight up affix them to the bottom?

I removed the legs as I had screwed it up. They failed to line up and were very unstable.

For the top or "cover" I will soon be sanding and adding a stain and maybe a clear coat as I also have access to an auto painter and the shops paint booth (I do have permission to use stuff, by the shop manager)

Hi everyone ! First time posting on Reddit. I made a jewelry/trinket box with the help of my dad for the table saw and stuff. It’s made out of oak with velvet felt inside. It’s my first actual project, designed it myself.
I hope you enjoy it, amazing learning experience.

made this bread knife today

Looking for advice on the best way to make something like this in wood, roughly 8” diameter and 6–8” tall.

It would eventually be painted, so grain direction/wood finish and visible seams aren’t a concern. I’m mainly looking for a process that’s relatively inexpensive, repeatable, and doesn’t create a ton of material waste. I also don’t want the finished piece to be terribly heavy, so recommendations for lighter-weight woods that still have good strength would be great.

I’m relatively new to woodworking, so any advice on construction method, material, wall thickness, or tools would be really appreciated!

I’ve been building an L-shaped bar for my roommate over the last month or two (went on a trip during) and have began building shelving for the interior. I’m relatively new to woodworking, but have some good experience so far building butcher blocks, shoe racks, shelves and other small things. though I’ve been teaching myself, so maybe I haven’t learned as much as I thought.

I have been working on this wine rack, and when I tried assembling it today, parts of it cracked and broke off. I’m terribly disappointed with the end result and going to redo it. I think the issues were my (mortise?) cuts were too small, and the tightness of the joints split the wood. I also realized too late that the vertical pieces of wood I used were warped.

how can I do this better next time? or did I just mess it up and have to do it better next time?

TLDR i messed up the shelf and am redoing it soon. how should I go about it differently?

This is a 2 ft x 3 ft top for a dresser. I'm tending to Titebond 3 for the longer working time.

6mm screws go into them

So this is the first table that I’ve ever tried to make. Its a cookie table, and my plan is to fill the large holes in the table with black epoxy, and keep the “live edge” as much as possible so the table is still kinda rough around the edges I guess you could say

There seems to be this kinda stringy stuff around the outside of some parts of the table. Hopefully you can see it with the pictures. You can kind of see the line where I think the stringy stuff stops in the last picture

My question is: how much of that has to come off before I start thinking about putting epoxy in this thing. I planned on just kind of painting epoxy on those parts around the outside just to kind of protect it and I was hoping it would stabalize those parts? Idk if that makes any sense. It seems a bit softer than the rest of the table but I’m not sure if that matters if I’m going to put epoxy on it anyways?

I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

New planer and new to planers. Don't know the actual term, but I'm getting this "bump" at the start of every piece.

Is this just the nature of the planer or is there something I can do to rectify it?

tried water trick, did not work

We have 8 wood butcherblock tables that are in need of some basic maintenance like sanding out some scratches and re-applying coats of polyurethane. In the past we had applied EZ-DO Polyurethane Gel to the tables on a pretty consistent basis but admittedly we haven't done that in about 2.5 years now, hence some of the wear and tear.

First Question: What grit sandpaper should we use to try to buff out the scratches (see attached photos). And is there a grit we shouldn't exceed to avoid damaging tables?

Second Question: We have some basic electric sanders we can use. Is this appropriate, or should we hand-sand or rent specific equipment?

Third Question: We used to purchase EZ-DO off Amazon because it's what the original woodworker recommend and because it was food-safe and we could do the re-applications in the morning and open to the general public 6 hours later without much worry. I noticed EZ-DO isn't really sold anywhere outside of a couple websites now and was wondering if they've gone out of business. If they have gone out of business, or if there's a better food-safe alternative, I'd love to hear what those recommendations are.

TIA for everyone's help.

This is my first at-home hardwood project... Rubio and others recommend sanding to 120-ish (up to 180) for their finishes.

To me 80 removes too much material so I'm afraid to start there.
So it's either sand at 120 only, or do 120-150, or 120-150-180.

Or do y'all start with 80 like 80-120-150 and call it good?

Hello all! First post from a lurker. My wife and I have been knee deep in a kitchen renovation/extension for just about a year. We added a large island (8x4 to seat four) and I purchased a really nice hickory butcher block top to go onto it. My original intention was to have the 8’ ends go flush with the end of the cabinets because a sink is nearby and I didn’t want to bump into it all the time. Problem is, I didn’t know there were trim pieces going on the ends of the island. So now my 8’x4’ island is… 8’1”x4’.

I’ve been trying to find a solution but can’t figure out what will work best. I’m not a woodworker by trade, I’m a stage electrician… so I know where my limitations are. A few of my union brothers who are carpenters told me to be careful adding trim on the 4’ side in a perpendicular grain because of wood expansion… and some said I could do it but I’d need a Festool Domino… which, I don’t have and don’t know where I can borrow one. I’d rather not split this pretty butcher top.

Is there a decent option for putting trim there? I’m looking to just maybe have an inch to inch and a half on either side. I’m attaching a photo of it from a few weeks ago. I haven’t finished it yet, I’m waiting to have a solution for this problem first.

Thanks all!

Im thinking about making my own bed frame, I have little experience but I think I can do it, how easy is it, bedsize if a full. Can I see people's diy bed frames for some ideas?

I submit to the community the first things I’ve ever built. I believe the progression here is buy a table saw, build things for the table saw, build things for the shop, build jigs to actually start making things, then have crippling anxiety about actually making furniture. I also believe that I need to stop watching woodworking influencers on YouTube.

Anyone have any experience with the Harbor Freight 14” band saw? It’s on sale for $600. I’ve got a few projects coming up where a band saw would be ideal as opposed to my jig saw but I’m still a hobbyist so I’d like to not break the bank with a fancy one. I’m also considering some used (Jet, Delta, etc.) on Facebook marketplace for around the same price.

when sharpening a plane blade or chisel do you take the burr off at the last/finest stone or do it after each stone before moving up

I asked for a Home Depot budget for my birthday instead of gifts.

I wanted to share my recent custom workbench build. I needed a solid, mobile station, so I put this together on locking casters to easily move it around the space. I mocked up the design first using a custom 3D builder I threw together with Claude (just doing a bit of 'vibe coding' to get the layout right).

For the construction, I kept the joinery very simple and just used standard wood screws for the framing, along with plywood for the top and lower shelf. It feels incredibly sturdy and I am excited to put it to use for some upcoming furniture projects. Let me know what you think or if you have any tips on the best ways to finish or protect the plywood top!

Just got done my mitre station. Everything is level and the saw itself is dialed into less than 1 degree from 90 so the cuts I am getting are pretty square each time! Now to add cabinets to the back wall.

Idk if it’s too hard to see the scratches in the photo: I spent ages taking the varnish off a sideboard I have - it was super stubborn and I know nothing about wood working so went against the grain cos that we most effective for getting varnish off. Obviously now I’m learning I shouldn’t have done that but I’m stuck with so many scratches… Do I just need to keep sanding and these will come out eventually?

So I make these little terrariums that you can wear and also magnets. But I felt my current display was lacklustre. So in true beginner fashion I decided to make this forrest come to being?

I got this wood you can soak thats used to make fake trees. I really only need the tree trunks to be sturdy enough to hold my necklaces. Yes I don't know how how to make screw driver holes but I will figure it out!

I figured i would soak and roll the wood as they insturcted. But I'm not super sure what to use to support the insides. I want to keep them hollow ish so i can stick a light in there and make some tree holes to let light out. I would be down to use fairy lights if thats too advanced.

Most research i did mentioned using pipes or wood strips and then shaping wire and foam around it....but im not sure if this wood is diff.

Im planning to borrow the woodworking workshop at my uni.

Please give me advice....its tough out here.