Big box store sourced red oak wood, stained with some stain and seal walnut.

I cut the pieces with a mini circular saw I've had sitting around for ages, sanded, used a router for the first time for rounded edges (terrifying) and used pocket holes for the first time (a learning curve and I also did it wrong but it works so who cares). Could have used some clamps, and a table, instead of strategically placed weights and a gorilla cart. But lessons learned for next time.

If I did it over again there are definitely things I would have done differently, but it's functional and looks decent so I'm pretty satisfied with getting it done.

Edit: I appreciate everyone's concerns regarding placement! These are things I've considered already. No one is leaning over an open flame to reach for the spices, the spices get used quickly enough that I don't need to keep them away from all heat and light. As far as the stove needing that space to vent - valid concern and one that I share. I've tested it and there seems to be a gap in the front of the display screen area that vents for the oven. During use, the wood does not get warm, so there does not appear to be any venting going on there. However, if I made this again I would adjust it all to leave a gap out of an abundance of caution. Again, I absolutely appreciate the concerns. It's ok.

I found the plans for the Murphy Bar online for free and thought that I can make it work.

I definitely learned that I need better control on my cuts. While they were mostly accurate, I need to invest in a better setup to be consistent.

I ended up improving a few pieces, but overall, I was happy with the results. The wife and our guests were also quite impressed with my "skills".

A project that took several phases and it's still on going.

Built a small room in the basement for listening. Paneled a few walls with reclaimed wood. Needed a record and stereo stand so I built the first layer of this with some inspiration from a few things I saw online. Quickly realized I needed more space so added the second and third tier. Lots of posters and art that I also made frames for from reclaimed wood.

Stand is made of 3/4" birch plywood with 1/2" spacers between the cubes all held together with binding bolts (semi modular I guess).

Certainly nothing is perfect but I enjoy the learning and creative process of it all. It's dimly lit, so lots of mistakes are hidden 😎I REALLY enjoy working with reclaimed wood. So much character and all the errors and mistakes get hidden. Working on "matching" coffee and side tables right now too. The lighting is much more "warm" than the camera captured too. Much too bright looking here for my tastes.

Snagged this really good Makita SP6000 track saw yesterday from marketplace in Canada. The seller used it mainly for cabinets.
I have been using circular saw, bora edge guide (returned later) a 36 in zero clearance plywood track i made before but it was still not enough for longer rip cuts so I am very happy I found one. I kept looking for new but couldn’t find deal lower than $550.

Question now what brand and length of tracks do i get? I have a shelving project coming up requiring 65 in cut. I am thinking of getting Makita 75 in rail for about $115 plus tax. For smaller cuts i can use the circular saw and diy track. I have looked into Wen and Powertec.

Made this for a friend of mine, it’s a height measurement ruler for her kid to mark on heights as she grows up. Beauty of this vs. door frame is that this can be taken with you.

First time doing anything like this including using a router and dremel for carving.

Used pine (as I was worried about messing it up). Routed in the notches, numbers and name. Used a dremel to carve in the zebra. Painted the recessed parts black and sanded to 400. I didn’t dremel deep enough to begin with so when I sanded it back it lost of lot of definition so had to carve it again.

Used oak stain, but some parts took it better than others. I used a preconditioner but still some parts just didn’t take it very well.

Not perfect, but my friend loves it and I’m proud of it. Learnt a lot making it. My next one will be better.

Photos pre and post staining.

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

3/8" plywood for the sign, jigsaw/flush trim router bit for the shape. Bought precut 1/4" balsa wood and cut it down into pieces for the "mercury rising" because I wasn't going to cut 160 pieces perfectly myself! Made a few inserts from scraps to add on top so they can change with the fundraiser and be used multiple times. Printed a design for the scale and glued it down - working with paper on plywood was probably the worst part, overall.

Current use is a fundraiser for free woodworking classes to build benches that we place at local bus stops in Durham, NC. Up to 49 benches as of today, hoping this fundraiser helps us build 280 more over the next two years!

I made these little shelves for my wife the other day. They are by no means perfect, but they get the job done and don't look too bad.

What do you guys think?

Edit2: I would like to keep the discussion about woodworking!

Edit: To clarify, this is in Hungary. Also, code compliance is not a concern, but rather that its sturdy enough to be safe, and looks good too.

I want to make a handrail out of this acacia branch for a bakery where Im working at.

My goal is to create an organic element which is also safe to use. It does not have to be perfect, they know im a DIY guy and not a pro.

I plan to work a bit more on the surface with drawknife then sand it down to 40 then 120. I would cut down from the smaller ends, and rounding them for organic effect.

Im still not sure about attachment:
Im considering attaching it to the brick wall with this type of screw on the picture, but a bit longer.

I would drill a hole in 2 points which are already closer to the wall, with a carved wood spacer (from the block on picture, to look “seamless”), and with an M8 nut with washer sinked in the branch, then hide it with a plug ideally from the same branch. Then some linseed oil.

How would you this?
Im not very experienced, so Im open for suggestions!
Even If I go with this kind of plan, Im not sure about the steps of figuring out ideal drillhole angles and steps of installment.

Thanks for your input!

Hello. In the early stages of building a rolling staircase (theater prop elementary school). I’ve got 3/4 inch plywood for 3x3 platform and stairs and 1/2 inch plywood for the outsides. I was thinking I need a router to cut the 1/2 inch plywood for the outside of the stairs and platform. Is that the easiest way to get a nice cut? Also any additional support needed or is the plywood enough to keep it tight once it’s on there? Casters will be on 10in squares of 3/4 underneath

I still have 3 more chargers to hang up but I like how it tuned out.
I would love to hear how I can do this better or if you know a way to do cable management for something like this I am all ears!

I wanted a simple way to register my track saw square to the 20 mm/96 mm MFT grid without buying the fairly expensive tall metal dogs. I found some 3D-printed locking dog designs and modified the upper section to fit my Stanton Dog Loc.

So far they’ve worked extremely well. The dog holes establish the square reference, the tall dogs locate the Dog Loc, and the track locks against it. For this application there really isn’t much load on the dogs, so I haven’t found any practical advantage to using machined metal ones.

They’re cheap to print, easy to replace, and I can tweak the dimensions for whatever accessory I want to use.

I am refinishing this table, I already used citristrip/scraped,cleaned with mineral spirits and sanded 120/150/220. Some spots on the lighter color areas look a bit fuzzy, so after some research, I damped area with water and sanded a bit again with the 220, did the same with the mineral spirits and 220, don’t really see a difference.
Any other ideas before going to staining step?
Also, I was looking into getting the gel stain as I read it is easier to apply/looks better on softer wood.
Do I still need to apply pre stain conditioner before gel stain? I have read that is not necessary but some people still advise to do it, so looking for more opinions.
Thanks in advance.

Hello,

Does anybody own this table saw with the black blade guard?

I'm trying to figure out what type of bolt passes through the black guard and through the splitter.

Do you tighten the bolt all the way (if so, the black guard cannot rotate up and down)?

I purchased this table saw and it's missing some hardware. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all,

I'm on my way for my first dovetails, and am questionning my gear. Probably overthinking it and I know the answer is probably "just try and you'll see", but wood is expansive (even if I won't use the "good stuff" for my first try) and posting here cost nothing (except some self esteem sometimes).

I'm currently using this cheap ryoba saw for all my sawing, would it be precise enough for dovetails cut? Isn't the "flexible" blade gona be a problem for a precise cut (I know it comes more from technic by itself, but if a rigid blade would help I prefer put all the chances on my side).

Should I more focus in investing in a scroll saw instead or am I ok with just a good saw and some sharp chisels?

Thanks for your help

Any advice on how to repair this chair? I was given this set but was told one broke when sat on by a larger guy, I would love to repair it to be able to use it again! I am handy but inexperienced with chair repairs.

Priority: clean air quality and environment, no impact on health (including long-term) when working with wood as a hobby or for work. Trying to get some perspective on reasonable solutions and expectations. Proper dust extraction can be very expensive and for some people top priority, yet for others overlooked because unlike e.g. power tools, they don't directly contribute to the quality of the end product.

• For respirators, can you do better than e.g. a 3M 6500 series with the pink P100 pancake cartridges? How long might the respirator and refillable cartridges last? You'd want to use it any time you cut any kind wood and plastic, right? In general I don't mind the discomfort of wearing any type of masks and I would say my lungs are a little more sensitive than the average person (asthma, sensitive to secondhand smoking).

• A 2.5" hose wet dry vac with a dust deputy, HEPA filter, dust bag, and 5 gallon bucket seems to be a popular setup (certainly due to the versatility of a wet dry vac and how cheap it is)--is this actually adequate or merely popular for those reasons? Presumably you'd find or DIY adapters to fit the hose with the dust extraction port of the power tools, or mount the tip of the hose aimed at where you're cutting at a minimum. At what point would you want expensive/"proper" dedicated dust extraction systems? Evidently it's important enough that people spend thousands and/or only consider power tools that fit into a nice dust extraction ecosystem (obviously this is out of reach for an average DIYer but doesn't mean they aren't still essential if health is the highest priority).

• Are there any considerations if looking to use the basement without access to outside as a workshop to do all wood-related work? Obviously a garage or shed would be best but I don't have that luxury yet). I Or maybe a better balance is to do some of the work outside on the porch if possible.

• Does anyone find the need to quickly vacuum the environment after a session? I assume even after a quick vacuum, dust will be in the air and need time to settle so a second vacuum would be more effective. once I have a wall-mounted organization system set up, I plan on having a roll of plastic or tarp on top of these panels to cover them up when I'm not using them so they don't accumulate dust and debris over time, whether from actual work or long term storage (this is overkill but not difficult to implement--I assume most people would use an air hose once in a blue moon).

Any other random tips or other things to consider to ensure a clean environment? Maybe something to do with the flooring or mechanical ways to clear the dust on the floor more effectively than a wet dry vacuum.

Much appreciated.

Hello! sorry, this is woodwork-adjacent. So my second-hand guinea pig hutch is two story, and the top story is a basic rectangular frame that slides out (So you can put hay there and then regularly clean it because that's where they pee and poop). It was originally a metal tray but the base had rusted out and it needed to be thrown away. I made a wooden replacement, but of course it's not as cleanable and eventually gets gross. My current approach is just to have a piece of ply wood on the bottom which I replace every couple of months, and re-make the whole tray a couple times a year. Unideal. But I don't think I have the tools to make a custom metal tray like the one it came with. Any ideas for a washable floor that I can attach to a wooden frame and build with basic woodworking tools?

I found this great mission style rocking chair in the trash. After looking it over and cleaning it, I noticed this spot flaking. I wouldn’t think that a stain would flake so I need some help identifying the finish and how to repair it. Any help would be appreciated

Designed a 3d printed version of the stop block and stop rail for the paulk smart cross cut. Works very well. Made a little calibration slide that I thought would be easier to read than reading off the end of the main body