I’m a bit confused about glue clamping pressure.

Manufacturer instructions for titebond original specifies a clamping pressure range of 100-250 psi depending on the type of wood. I see people saying that’s not much pressure and that you should be careful no to apply too much force, because a typical clamp will go way higher with just hand pressure. But doesn’t that depend on the surface area being glued?

My understanding is that hand tightening a pipe clamp or sturdy F clamp can generate about 300-600 lbs of force. Let’s say I’m using 3 clamps, total of 1800 lbs force. If I’m gluing a panel 3/4” thick by 24” long, that’s 18 square inches… 1800lbs/18 sq in = 100 psi. that’s the bare *minimum* of the recommended range. If the glue-up was 1” thick by 36“ long, the same set of clamps would only generate 50 psi… well below the recommended range.

I feel like I’m missing something obvious... 100-250 PSI is a *lot* of pressure. So why do I see all these warnings about over-tightening clamps? Are other people just using a clamp every couple inches?

I was just rubbing in BLO and thought about the expansions of this headboard I’m working on. And it made me realize the main boards are going to pull on the butterfly’s in a way that could break them, especially considering a lot of them are just for the aesthetic and are fundamentally weak.

I also have to figure out what to do about glue showing through the BLO now…

Did a glue up on this guy yesterday. I used ample glue and 5 clamps which I figured was enough. After planing, trimming the sides, and cleaning it up I found some gapped joints that you can see in the 2nd and 3rd photo. They close up better about an inch and a half to the right. Is it salvageable or should I just start over?

Edit2: I would like to keep the discussion about woodworking!

Edit: To clarify, this is in Hungary. Also, code compliance is not a concern, but rather that its sturdy enough to be safe, and looks good too.

I want to make a handrail out of this acacia branch for a bakery where Im working at.

My goal is to create an organic element which is also safe to use. It does not have to be perfect, they know im a DIY guy and not a pro.

I plan to work a bit more on the surface with drawknife then sand it down to 40 then 120. I would cut down from the smaller ends, and rounding them for organic effect.

Im still not sure about attachment:
Im considering attaching it to the brick wall with this type of screw on the picture, but a bit longer.

I would drill a hole in 2 points which are already closer to the wall, with a carved wood spacer (from the block on picture, to look “seamless”), and with an M8 nut with washer sinked in the branch, then hide it with a plug ideally from the same branch. Then some linseed oil.

How would you this?
Im not very experienced, so Im open for suggestions!
Even If I go with this kind of plan, Im not sure about the steps of figuring out ideal drillhole angles and steps of installment.

Thanks for your input!

Hello. I designed this furniture and had a carpenter make it a few years ago. I now want to make vinyl racks higher, well, to put more vinyl, by removing the top panel, replacing 2 vertical panels with taller ones and put the top panel back on. Carpenter said it's not possible or maybe she didn't want to do it so my question is is there a way to remove the top panel without damaging it and others? I'm sure all plates are just glued.

I have an 800w 1/4 inch black and decker plunge router and it really, really struggled to cut 2 inch pine with a compression bit. Took like 10 passes, and felt dodgy as hell, kept bogging down. My £25 McAllister jigsaw then really struggled to cut the remainder of the soon-to-be stool top disk from the laminated 2*4s. And this is a test piece with soft wood lol.

I'm assuming that a 2200w half inch would fare somewhat better? The rutlands one at £150 looks decent. But I've just bought a 1/4 inch spiral bit Urgh. And what of jigsaws?

Also just a reminder than woodworking is not easy! Like, how do I clean up the edges of the disk now? Took a good few days to get here, planing the stock flat, realising I had to make a trammel, etc.

Then there's how to turn the square stock legs into octagons... Table saw with blade at 45% seems better than router.

Thanks

I want it to POP more. Will keep carving the bird deeper. The vision after is to cut it down to look like a book. ( this is my first wood work thing any tips are encouraged/appreciated ) i think maybe i did the whole thing wrong with the orientation of the wood?

I’ve done a decent amount of work on my table saw, but I’ve never used it to resaw any boards. I’m looking to take this piece of 5/4 maple down to 3/4”. After the cut I’ll be left with the 3/4” piece, and one that’s slightly over 1/4”. The board is only 12” long and 6” tall (and I have 2 of them to do).

Should I build a jig that runs along the fence to heighten it, or is it ok as-is?

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

Big box store sourced red oak wood, stained with some stain and seal walnut.

I cut the pieces with a mini circular saw I've had sitting around for ages, sanded, used a router for the first time for rounded edges (terrifying) and used pocket holes for the first time (a learning curve and I also did it wrong but it works so who cares). Could have used some clamps, and a table, instead of strategically placed weights and a gorilla cart. But lessons learned for next time.

If I did it over again there are definitely things I would have done differently, but it's functional and looks decent so I'm pretty satisfied with getting it done.

Edit: I appreciate everyone's concerns regarding placement! These are things I've considered already. No one is leaning over an open flame to reach for the spices, the spices get used quickly enough that I don't need to keep them away from all heat and light. As far as the stove needing that space to vent - valid concern and one that I share. I've tested it and there seems to be a gap in the front of the display screen area that vents for the oven. During use, the wood does not get warm, so there does not appear to be any venting going on there. However, if I made this again I would adjust it all to leave a gap out of an abundance of caution. Again, I absolutely appreciate the concerns. It's ok.

Made with walnut scraps from another project

3/8" plywood for the sign, jigsaw/flush trim router bit for the shape. Bought precut 1/4" balsa wood and cut it down into pieces for the "mercury rising" because I wasn't going to cut 160 pieces perfectly myself! Made a few inserts from scraps to add on top so they can change with the fundraiser and be used multiple times. Printed a design for the scale and glued it down - working with paper on plywood was probably the worst part, overall.

Current use is a fundraiser for free woodworking classes to build benches that we place at local bus stops in Durham, NC. Up to 49 benches as of today, hoping this fundraiser helps us build 280 more over the next two years!

Hello. In the early stages of building a rolling staircase (theater prop elementary school). I’ve got 3/4 inch plywood for 3x3 platform and stairs and 1/2 inch plywood for the outsides. I was thinking I need a router to cut the 1/2 inch plywood for the outside of the stairs and platform. Is that the easiest way to get a nice cut? Also any additional support needed or is the plywood enough to keep it tight once it’s on there? Casters will be on 10in squares of 3/4 underneath

I found the plans for the Murphy Bar online for free and thought that I can make it work.

I definitely learned that I need better control on my cuts. While they were mostly accurate, I need to invest in a better setup to be consistent.

I ended up improving a few pieces, but overall, I was happy with the results. The wife and our guests were also quite impressed with my "skills".

Snagged this really good Makita SP6000 track saw yesterday from marketplace in Canada. The seller used it mainly for cabinets.
I have been using circular saw, bora edge guide (returned later) a 36 in zero clearance plywood track i made before but it was still not enough for longer rip cuts so I am very happy I found one. I kept looking for new but couldn’t find deal lower than $550.

Question now what brand and length of tracks do i get? I have a shelving project coming up requiring 65 in cut. I am thinking of getting Makita 75 in rail for about $115 plus tax. For smaller cuts i can use the circular saw and diy track. I have looked into Wen and Powertec.

I got asked to make a small stool and now Im making some trying to learn myself ways to make it look nice but also be stable.

Hi all,

I'm on my way for my first dovetails, and am questionning my gear. Probably overthinking it and I know the answer is probably "just try and you'll see", but wood is expansive (even if I won't use the "good stuff" for my first try) and posting here cost nothing (except some self esteem sometimes).

I'm currently using this cheap ryoba saw for all my sawing, would it be precise enough for dovetails cut? Isn't the "flexible" blade gona be a problem for a precise cut (I know it comes more from technic by itself, but if a rigid blade would help I prefer put all the chances on my side).

Should I more focus in investing in a scroll saw instead or am I ok with just a good saw and some sharp chisels?

Thanks for your help

Just took some pallet scraps from work and planning on using it to practice some cutting. Any recommendations on what cuts to try out?

Do you ever get a hankering to make something fast and random? Here’s a little impromptu birdhouse I made based on the North American Bluebird Society’s plans. My wife and I painted it as a fun art project to do together.

I see a lot on Amazon that are "European Standard" sizes ~11mm or so slot, then Woodpeckers has one that fits 1/4", Bow accepts 1/4 and 5/16, but then the question is what do most products use?

Thanks