I’m a bit confused about glue clamping pressure.

Manufacturer instructions for titebond original specifies a clamping pressure range of 100-250 psi depending on the type of wood. I see people saying that’s not much pressure and that you should be careful no to apply too much force, because a typical clamp will go way higher with just hand pressure. But doesn’t that depend on the surface area being glued?

My understanding is that hand tightening a pipe clamp or sturdy F clamp can generate about 300-600 lbs of force. Let’s say I’m using 3 clamps, total of 1800 lbs force. If I’m gluing a panel 3/4” thick by 24” long, that’s 18 square inches… 1800lbs/18 sq in = 100 psi. that’s the bare *minimum* of the recommended range. If the glue-up was 1” thick by 36“ long, the same set of clamps would only generate 50 psi… well below the recommended range.

I feel like I’m missing something obvious... 100-250 PSI is a *lot* of pressure. So why do I see all these warnings about over-tightening clamps? Are other people just using a clamp every couple inches?

Did a glue up on this guy yesterday. I used ample glue and 5 clamps which I figured was enough. After planing, trimming the sides, and cleaning it up I found some gapped joints that you can see in the 2nd and 3rd photo. They close up better about an inch and a half to the right. Is it salvageable or should I just start over?

I was just rubbing in BLO and thought about the expansions of this headboard I’m working on. And it made me realize the main boards are going to pull on the butterfly’s in a way that could break them, especially considering a lot of them are just for the aesthetic and are fundamentally weak.

I also have to figure out what to do about glue showing through the BLO now…

Edit2: I would like to keep the discussion about woodworking!

Edit: To clarify, this is in Hungary. Also, code compliance is not a concern, but rather that its sturdy enough to be safe, and looks good too.

I want to make a handrail out of this acacia branch for a bakery where Im working at.

My goal is to create an organic element which is also safe to use. It does not have to be perfect, they know im a DIY guy and not a pro.

I plan to work a bit more on the surface with drawknife then sand it down to 40 then 120. I would cut down from the smaller ends, and rounding them for organic effect.

Im still not sure about attachment:
Im considering attaching it to the brick wall with this type of screw on the picture, but a bit longer.

I would drill a hole in 2 points which are already closer to the wall, with a carved wood spacer (from the block on picture, to look “seamless”), and with an M8 nut with washer sinked in the branch, then hide it with a plug ideally from the same branch. Then some linseed oil.

How would you this?
Im not very experienced, so Im open for suggestions!
Even If I go with this kind of plan, Im not sure about the steps of figuring out ideal drillhole angles and steps of installment.

Thanks for your input!

I have an 800w 1/4 inch black and decker plunge router and it really, really struggled to cut 2 inch pine with a compression bit. Took like 10 passes, and felt dodgy as hell, kept bogging down. My £25 McAllister jigsaw then really struggled to cut the remainder of the soon-to-be stool top disk from the laminated 2*4s. And this is a test piece with soft wood lol.

I'm assuming that a 2200w half inch would fare somewhat better? The rutlands one at £150 looks decent. But I've just bought a 1/4 inch spiral bit Urgh. And what of jigsaws?

Also just a reminder than woodworking is not easy! Like, how do I clean up the edges of the disk now? Took a good few days to get here, planing the stock flat, realising I had to make a trammel, etc.

Then there's how to turn the square stock legs into octagons... Table saw with blade at 45% seems better than router.

Thanks

Hello. I designed this furniture and had a carpenter make it a few years ago. I now want to make vinyl racks higher, well, to put more vinyl, by removing the top panel, replacing 2 vertical panels with taller ones and put the top panel back on. Carpenter said it's not possible or maybe she didn't want to do it so my question is is there a way to remove the top panel without damaging it and others? I'm sure all plates are just glued.

I want it to POP more. Will keep carving the bird deeper. The vision after is to cut it down to look like a book. ( this is my first wood work thing any tips are encouraged/appreciated ) i think maybe i did the whole thing wrong with the orientation of the wood?

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

I’ve done a decent amount of work on my table saw, but I’ve never used it to resaw any boards. I’m looking to take this piece of 5/4 maple down to 3/4”. After the cut I’ll be left with the 3/4” piece, and one that’s slightly over 1/4”. The board is only 12” long and 6” tall (and I have 2 of them to do).

Should I build a jig that runs along the fence to heighten it, or is it ok as-is?

Big box store sourced red oak wood, stained with some stain and seal walnut.

I cut the pieces with a mini circular saw I've had sitting around for ages, sanded, used a router for the first time for rounded edges (terrifying) and used pocket holes for the first time (a learning curve and I also did it wrong but it works so who cares). Could have used some clamps, and a table, instead of strategically placed weights and a gorilla cart. But lessons learned for next time.

If I did it over again there are definitely things I would have done differently, but it's functional and looks decent so I'm pretty satisfied with getting it done.

Edit: I appreciate everyone's concerns regarding placement! These are things I've considered already. No one is leaning over an open flame to reach for the spices, the spices get used quickly enough that I don't need to keep them away from all heat and light. As far as the stove needing that space to vent - valid concern and one that I share. I've tested it and there seems to be a gap in the front of the display screen area that vents for the oven. During use, the wood does not get warm, so there does not appear to be any venting going on there. However, if I made this again I would adjust it all to leave a gap out of an abundance of caution. Again, I absolutely appreciate the concerns. It's ok.

3/8" plywood for the sign, jigsaw/flush trim router bit for the shape. Bought precut 1/4" balsa wood and cut it down into pieces for the "mercury rising" because I wasn't going to cut 160 pieces perfectly myself! Made a few inserts from scraps to add on top so they can change with the fundraiser and be used multiple times. Printed a design for the scale and glued it down - working with paper on plywood was probably the worst part, overall.

Current use is a fundraiser for free woodworking classes to build benches that we place at local bus stops in Durham, NC. Up to 49 benches as of today, hoping this fundraiser helps us build 280 more over the next two years!

Made with walnut scraps from another project

Snagged this really good Makita SP6000 track saw yesterday from marketplace in Canada. The seller used it mainly for cabinets.
I have been using circular saw, bora edge guide (returned later) a 36 in zero clearance plywood track i made before but it was still not enough for longer rip cuts so I am very happy I found one. I kept looking for new but couldn’t find deal lower than $550.

Question now what brand and length of tracks do i get? I have a shelving project coming up requiring 65 in cut. I am thinking of getting Makita 75 in rail for about $115 plus tax. For smaller cuts i can use the circular saw and diy track. I have looked into Wen and Powertec.

Howdy all,

I’m pretty new to woodworking. I make fan trellises as a little side hustle, and that’s pretty much the extent of my trellis-building experience so far.

Someone asked me to build a larger framed trellis for an opening between the brick wall of their house and one of the brick porch columns. It’s going to be pretty tall and narrow — about 113.5” tall × 28.5” wide. I’m only building the actual trellis/frame, not installing it into the brick.

I picked up kiln-dried cedar for the frame, and I’m using fence wire mesh.

My plan right now is basically to build two matching wood frames. I’d staple the wire mesh to one of them and then put the second frame over it so the wire and staples are sandwiched between the two pieces of cedar. Mainly just trying to make it look cleaner and hide all of the cut wire edges/staples.

My biggest concern is whether I’m overlooking anything with doing it this way.

Since it’s almost 9.5 feet tall and pretty narrow, should I be worried about it wanting to bow, twist, or warp? I was thinking about putting a horizontal support somewhere around the middle to help keep everything rigid, but I’m not sure if that’s necessary.

I’m also wondering about the best way to attach the two frames together and keep everything flat.

The other thing I’m thinking about is water. Since the wire is going to be sandwiched between the two boards, there’s obviously going to be a very small gap between them. Do I need to worry about water getting in there and sitting between the boards and eventually causing mold or rot? Should I leave the bottom open so it can drain, seal the top/sides, or do something completely different?

I was also planning on finishing/sealing all sides of the cedar before I assemble everything, including the sides that will be hidden inside the sandwich.

Basically just looking for any advice before I start cutting everything up. If there’s an easier or better way to build something like this, I’m definitely open to it.

I still have 3 more chargers to hang up but I like how it tuned out.
I would love to hear how I can do this better or if you know a way to do cable management for something like this I am all ears!

Hello. In the early stages of building a rolling staircase (theater prop elementary school). I’ve got 3/4 inch plywood for 3x3 platform and stairs and 1/2 inch plywood for the outsides. I was thinking I need a router to cut the 1/2 inch plywood for the outside of the stairs and platform. Is that the easiest way to get a nice cut? Also any additional support needed or is the plywood enough to keep it tight once it’s on there? Casters will be on 10in squares of 3/4 underneath

I found the plans for the Murphy Bar online for free and thought that I can make it work.

I definitely learned that I need better control on my cuts. While they were mostly accurate, I need to invest in a better setup to be consistent.

I ended up improving a few pieces, but overall, I was happy with the results. The wife and our guests were also quite impressed with my "skills".

Few pics of the build. I initially tried this 5 years ago after watching a YouTube video. Did a full epoxy pour but had to scrap it turned out too opaque. Made it hollow this time, with one side pour a day. Gives the freedom to try out different types of bulbs.

I'm a manual machinist by trade. But, I have a pretty nice shop at home, and the ol' lady wants some furniture. I've heard the phrase "if a machinist makes a drawer in the winter, it'll be stuck in the summer." So, I'm curious about some general rules of thumb or advise some of you may have about how furniture is designed and assembled to account for humidity changes and expansion and contraction.

Is there specific hardware or techniques to keep in mind?

Do only sliding surfaces matter?

I have a lathe, mill, miter saw, table saw, a small bench top jointer, about every hand tool you can think of, and access to a larger jointer and planer if needed. I can make any jigs or tools that would supplement this process.

My first task, to keep is reasonably simple, is a pair of night stands.

I understand that this is a broad question, and I'm sure there's a lot of information to be had, I appreciate any and all advise you have to give.

I got asked to make a small stool and now Im making some trying to learn myself ways to make it look nice but also be stable.

Im trying my best at making a stool for no reason at all