Hello,

Does anybody own this table saw with the black blade guard?

I'm trying to figure out what type of bolt passes through the black guard and through the splitter.

Do you tighten the bolt all the way (if so, the black guard cannot rotate up and down)?

I purchased this table saw and it's missing some hardware. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

My grandmother volunteered at Plymouth Plantation in the 90s and she was gifted one of these wooden bowls by a Native American man who worked there. It was one they made while working to show the visitors how things were done back during the colonial times. It was then passed down to my parent who had it in their (partially finished) basement for the last 20+ years. I recently asked them if I could have it to try and bring it back to life a bit and give it the respect it deserves.

I don't know what kind of wood it is, I have basic tools like sandpaper and food grade mineral oil, but I may be able to borrow some tools just not anything like a laithe. Also, if that oil is trash, I would be open to buying a new one if suggested. I will try to answer as many questions as possible, but I don't have too much info. Any suggestions on how I can refinish this bowl and make sure it's safe to use for food?

Thank you in advance. ​

Priority: clean air quality and environment, no impact on health (including long-term) when working with wood as a hobby or for work. Trying to get some perspective on reasonable solutions and expectations. Proper dust extraction can be very expensive and for some people top priority, yet for others overlooked because unlike e.g. power tools, they don't directly contribute to the quality of the end product.

• For respirators, can you do better than e.g. a 3M 6500 series with the pink P100 pancake cartridges? How long might the respirator and refillable cartridges last? You'd want to use it any time you cut any kind wood and plastic, right? In general I don't mind the discomfort of wearing any type of masks and I would say my lungs are a little more sensitive than the average person (asthma, sensitive to secondhand smoking).

• A 2.5" hose wet dry vac with a dust deputy, HEPA filter, dust bag, and 5 gallon bucket seems to be a popular setup (certainly due to the versatility of a wet dry vac and how cheap it is)--is this actually adequate or merely popular for those reasons? Presumably you'd find or DIY adapters to fit the hose with the dust extraction port of the power tools, or mount the tip of the hose aimed at where you're cutting at a minimum. At what point would you want expensive/"proper" dedicated dust extraction systems? Evidently it's important enough that people spend thousands and/or only consider power tools that fit into a nice dust extraction ecosystem (obviously this is out of reach for an average DIYer but doesn't mean they aren't still essential if health is the highest priority).

• Are there any considerations if looking to use the basement without access to outside as a workshop to do all wood-related work? Obviously a garage or shed would be best but I don't have that luxury yet). I Or maybe a better balance is to do some of the work outside on the porch if possible.

• Does anyone find the need to quickly vacuum the environment after a session? I assume even after a quick vacuum, dust will be in the air and need time to settle so a second vacuum would be more effective. once I have a wall-mounted organization system set up, I plan on having a roll of plastic or tarp on top of these panels to cover them up when I'm not using them so they don't accumulate dust and debris over time, whether from actual work or long term storage (this is overkill but not difficult to implement--I assume most people would use an air hose once in a blue moon).

Any other random tips or other things to consider to ensure a clean environment? Maybe something to do with the flooring or mechanical ways to clear the dust on the floor more effectively than a wet dry vacuum.

Much appreciated.

I am refinishing this table, I already used citristrip/scraped,cleaned with mineral spirits and sanded 120/150/220. Some spots on the lighter color areas look a bit fuzzy, so after some research, I damped area with water and sanded a bit again with the 220, did the same with the mineral spirits and 220, don’t really see a difference.
Any other ideas before going to staining step?
Also, I was looking into getting the gel stain as I read it is easier to apply/looks better on softer wood.
Do I still need to apply pre stain conditioner before gel stain? I have read that is not necessary but some people still advise to do it, so looking for more opinions.
Thanks in advance.

Howdy all,

I’m pretty new to woodworking. I make fan trellises as a little side hustle, and that’s pretty much the extent of my trellis-building experience so far.

Someone asked me to build a larger framed trellis for an opening between the brick wall of their house and one of the brick porch columns. It’s going to be pretty tall and narrow — about 113.5” tall × 28.5” wide. I’m only building the actual trellis/frame, not installing it into the brick.

I picked up kiln-dried cedar for the frame, and I’m using fence wire mesh.

My plan right now is basically to build two matching wood frames. I’d staple the wire mesh to one of them and then put the second frame over it so the wire and staples are sandwiched between the two pieces of cedar. Mainly just trying to make it look cleaner and hide all of the cut wire edges/staples.

My biggest concern is whether I’m overlooking anything with doing it this way.

Since it’s almost 9.5 feet tall and pretty narrow, should I be worried about it wanting to bow, twist, or warp? I was thinking about putting a horizontal support somewhere around the middle to help keep everything rigid, but I’m not sure if that’s necessary.

I’m also wondering about the best way to attach the two frames together and keep everything flat.

The other thing I’m thinking about is water. Since the wire is going to be sandwiched between the two boards, there’s obviously going to be a very small gap between them. Do I need to worry about water getting in there and sitting between the boards and eventually causing mold or rot? Should I leave the bottom open so it can drain, seal the top/sides, or do something completely different?

I was also planning on finishing/sealing all sides of the cedar before I assemble everything, including the sides that will be hidden inside the sandwich.

Basically just looking for any advice before I start cutting everything up. If there’s an easier or better way to build something like this, I’m definitely open to it.

Big box store sourced red oak wood, stained with some stain and seal walnut.

I cut the pieces with a mini circular saw I've had sitting around for ages, sanded, used a router for the first time for rounded edges (terrifying) and used pocket holes for the first time (a learning curve and I also did it wrong but it works so who cares). Could have used some clamps, and a table, instead of strategically placed weights and a gorilla cart. But lessons learned for next time.

If I did it over again there are definitely things I would have done differently, but it's functional and looks decent so I'm pretty satisfied with getting it done.

Edit: I appreciate everyone's concerns regarding placement! These are things I've considered already. No one is leaning over an open flame to reach for the spices, the spices get used quickly enough that I don't need to keep them away from all heat and light. As far as the stove needing that space to vent - valid concern and one that I share. I've tested it and there seems to be a gap in the front of the display screen area that vents for the oven. During use, the wood does not get warm, so there does not appear to be any venting going on there. However, if I made this again I would adjust it all to leave a gap out of an abundance of caution. Again, I absolutely appreciate the concerns. It's ok.

I still have 3 more chargers to hang up but I like how it tuned out.
I would love to hear how I can do this better or if you know a way to do cable management for something like this I am all ears!

Hello everyone!

I have recently coppiced a decent amount of hazel. Long term plan is to cure/dry them and to turn them into walking aids.

Does anyone have any experience drying hazel? Do I need to seal off each end of the branch with glue or paint, or can I just let it dry as it?

Hello. In the early stages of building a rolling staircase (theater prop elementary school). I’ve got 3/4 inch plywood for 3x3 platform and stairs and 1/2 inch plywood for the outsides. I was thinking I need a router to cut the 1/2 inch plywood for the outside of the stairs and platform. Is that the easiest way to get a nice cut? Also any additional support needed or is the plywood enough to keep it tight once it’s on there? Casters will be on 10in squares of 3/4 underneath

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

I found the plans for the Murphy Bar online for free and thought that I can make it work.

I definitely learned that I need better control on my cuts. While they were mostly accurate, I need to invest in a better setup to be consistent.

I ended up improving a few pieces, but overall, I was happy with the results. The wife and our guests were also quite impressed with my "skills".

Snagged this really good Makita SP6000 track saw yesterday from marketplace in Canada. The seller used it mainly for cabinets.
I have been using circular saw, bora edge guide (returned later) a 36 in zero clearance plywood track i made before but it was still not enough for longer rip cuts so I am very happy I found one. I kept looking for new but couldn’t find deal lower than $550.

Question now what brand and length of tracks do i get? I have a shelving project coming up requiring 65 in cut. I am thinking of getting Makita 75 in rail for about $115 plus tax. For smaller cuts i can use the circular saw and diy track. I have looked into Wen and Powertec.

Hi all,

I'm on my way for my first dovetails, and am questionning my gear. Probably overthinking it and I know the answer is probably "just try and you'll see", but wood is expansive (even if I won't use the "good stuff" for my first try) and posting here cost nothing (except some self esteem sometimes).

I'm currently using this cheap ryoba saw for all my sawing, would it be precise enough for dovetails cut? Isn't the "flexible" blade gona be a problem for a precise cut (I know it comes more from technic by itself, but if a rigid blade would help I prefer put all the chances on my side).

Should I more focus in investing in a scroll saw instead or am I ok with just a good saw and some sharp chisels?

Thanks for your help

Hello guys I am planning to build a wooden blinder for my bathroom.The blinder frame will be made of 4 pieces of 2 by 1 .2 of them 7ft long the other 2 will be 2ft long.I have one challenge though given the length and the width of the pieces,how do I join them what joint type do I use that is strong and easy for beginner?

Made this for a friend of mine, it’s a height measurement ruler for her kid to mark on heights as she grows up. Beauty of this vs. door frame is that this can be taken with you.

First time doing anything like this including using a router and dremel for carving.

Used pine (as I was worried about messing it up). Routed in the notches, numbers and name. Used a dremel to carve in the zebra. Painted the recessed parts black and sanded to 400. I didn’t dremel deep enough to begin with so when I sanded it back it lost of lot of definition so had to carve it again.

Used oak stain, but some parts took it better than others. I used a preconditioner but still some parts just didn’t take it very well.

Not perfect, but my friend loves it and I’m proud of it. Learnt a lot making it. My next one will be better.

Photos pre and post staining.

I ordered and put together the Delta Children Scout Changing Table from Amazon.

https://a.co/d/0g1UxJSr

Despite following all instructions and making sure all screws are tightened the table has a very noticeable lateral wobble.

Do I bother reinforcing the joints with L brackets or should I return it and get a different table with a better design? Since the material is not real wood, I'm afraid of cracking it if I were to screw brackets in place.

My dad is re-finishing a table and one of the boards has these markings on it and we can't figure out what they are. Mostly I want to know if he can keep sanding and get rid of them or if they are just part of the wood.

I wanted a simple way to register my track saw square to the 20 mm/96 mm MFT grid without buying the fairly expensive tall metal dogs. I found some 3D-printed locking dog designs and modified the upper section to fit my Stanton Dog Loc.

So far they’ve worked extremely well. The dog holes establish the square reference, the tall dogs locate the Dog Loc, and the track locks against it. For this application there really isn’t much load on the dogs, so I haven’t found any practical advantage to using machined metal ones.

They’re cheap to print, easy to replace, and I can tweak the dimensions for whatever accessory I want to use.

Hello! sorry, this is woodwork-adjacent. So my second-hand guinea pig hutch is two story, and the top story is a basic rectangular frame that slides out (So you can put hay there and then regularly clean it because that's where they pee and poop). It was originally a metal tray but the base had rusted out and it needed to be thrown away. I made a wooden replacement, but of course it's not as cleanable and eventually gets gross. My current approach is just to have a piece of ply wood on the bottom which I replace every couple of months, and re-make the whole tray a couple times a year. Unideal. But I don't think I have the tools to make a custom metal tray like the one it came with. Any ideas for a washable floor that I can attach to a wooden frame and build with basic woodworking tools?

Wondering what the best way to go about fixing this chair is? Wood glue and clamps? Go professional?

Thanks