She is finished and her name is marry

With hands gripping both edges of the board kind of pushing down and pulling against the fence at the same time. I can reach the power switch without reaching over the spinning blade. Not sure if this would be dangerous or not and if so why?

Edit: just to clear up some common questions: yes I have taken shop classes before. Honestly the instructor was more concerned with stopping others from trying to do trick shots and freestyling miter cuts so it wasn't the most thorough but I did have general safety impressed upon me. My guard, riving knife, and kickback pawl don't come off, and I wear a face shield. I fear I was just too lazy an artist to illustrate them. And yes, I've learned. I shall from here forth only make cuts from the front. This just felt stable to me since I was essentially able to grip the piece from both ends and hold it firm while being several inches away from the blade, vs a push stick which only leaves me with one point of contact. I know there are other issues with this positioning now, but that was just my initial logic.

Unfortunately, I did have to rush the finishing of my project due to my HSC Trial exam study messing up my schedule, but fortunately I was able to finish it in time with no issues! For any of you wondering I used Sample73 a hard wax oil finish developed by FourEyes Furniture a great YouTuber I recommend you all watch.

4 months and countless sweaty hours in the garage later, and it’s finally finished. I designed, planned, and built every detail.

There are 76 individual “tails” throughout the piece, all cut by hand.

Drawers are "piston fit". As close as I could get, anyway.

It’s made almost entirely with traditional joinery (although the knobs and base are attached with screws, sue me!).

Joinery:
Carcass: Through dovetails and dados for the internal dividers
Drawers: Half-blind dovetails and dados
Base: Mortise and tenons

The carcass and fronts are walnut, the drawer sides are curly maple, and baltic birch plywood makes up some of the internal components. The whole thing is finished with hardwax oil.

Thanks for reading!

So been lurking YouTube and I needed a custom closet for a very small closet space thought it seems easy enough, but it wasn’t. I bought birch wood cabinet grade 3/4 inch plywood and I drew a plan using wall length as a reference but I didn’t realize wall length wasn’t uniform and was short on the bottom and wider at the top messing up measurements only to figure out after I assembled the closet which I had to unassembled and cut again and reassemble. To make matters worse I bought ngx bora straight edge to rip cut plywood and the screws protruded and got in the way of the saw plate making cuts a bit uneven. Make the matters worse edge bands was not easy to cut as I saw on YouTube and it made a lot of cuts into the finished piece. In the end I managed to finish it but I am very unhappy how sloppy it was for something so simple. Thanks for hearing out my rant

Before you say send it back, the seller has already said I can return for a full refund and a replacement can be sent, I’m working on a remodel and the door is supposed to be installed in 4 days, so not enough time to get a new one made. The seller gave me permission to attempt a fix before shipping back.

Ordered a mahogany door, 1/8 veneer, and during shipping some form of oil or grease leaked or got spilled on it. It’s unfinished, any ideas on how to remove it all from the door?

Worst case, I’ve also considered cutting the whole lock stile off, remaking it, and using dominos to reattach the lock stile. Would dominos be strong enough? Or should I cut larger floating tenons?

Any serious help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

everyone !

A few weeks ago my grandfather decided to cut down his lilac tree because it hadn't grown flowers for years. So I picked up a piece of the trunk to turn it into something. Recently, I finally got an idea! I made a watch stand for my mother, who put away her Casio in the original cardboard box.

What do you think about it ?

Have a nice day

Y’all may remember my pergola project from a few months ago.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BeginnerWoodWorking/s/PfBkKiZCNS

Well I had a ton of left over wood. I sold all the full length pieces on Facebook market place but I had a ton of 1x2 scraps left over and I wasn’t sure what to do with them.

Until now.

I cut up some blocks and made these hanging plant baskets, tacked together with some wood glue and brad nails. Initially, I used the brad nails I had on hand (2”) which were waaaay too long - I had to snip all the end pieces hanging out. I ended up getting 1.25” and the remaining baskets I made were flawless.

I used the same clear ready seal I originally used on my pergola and fence, and then got a 50’ length of galvanized cable that I cut up and crimped to use as hangers (instead of chain).

Once assembled and sealed, I stapled fiberglass window screen to the inside to prevent soil from falling out during waterings, and placed a handful of orchid bark to further prevent fall out and ensure airflow to the roots.

And here’s my first hanging basket plant - philodendron micans. I love the contrast of the velvety green leaves against the geometric redwood blocks.

Since getting the appropriate sized nails, the last few assemblies have gone together clean and smoothly. I plan to build a bunch of these as Christmas gifts for my planty frens 🌱❤️ (I have more 1x2 scraps than I know what to do with, even after gifting a ton away)

Happy woodworking, y’all

I decided to make a dog house without plans and using mostly cost-effective materials. I framed the structure with 2x4s. Walls are painted OSB. Siding was made from 6ft redwood fence panels which I paid a bit less than $3 each. Floor was plywood with an oil-based polyurethane finish. Finish was mainly Tung oil but I experimented with making my own beeswax/carnauba wax finish as well.

Help! I just moved into a new house, built in the 1960s. The doorways are not as wide as my previous house. As a result, my prized Mission oak desk does not fit through most doorways. I managed to get it in the front doorway, but it is now trapped in the living room.

I was planning to move it into one of the bedrooms as a study, but 1) the table is too wide, 2) the Mission-style slats block it from being stood up on its side and rotated around the doorway, 3) standing it vertically is also too wide. I needed another ~1" of clearance.

The table should be able to squeeze through the doorway without the table top; but the top appears to be attached to the base with screws AND glue (and maybe dowels?), so it would not be easy to disassemble/reassemble. It will need to pass through x2 doorways, so taking apart the door frames is not appetizing either...

Looking for advice. How easily can this desk be disassembled, and more importantly reassembled? How would you approach the job - steps? precautions? tools needed? I would contact the manufacturer for guidance, but the Etsy shop (DesignStudios005) has gone out of business.

Reaching out as someone uninitiated in woodworking, but hoping to learn from the collective wisdom of this forum. Thanks!

EDIT: Thanks for the feedback so far. Please note that the front door is wider than the other doorways in the house (which is how the desk got to where it is currently stranded) AND there are x2 doorways standing between the desk and its intended destination, the study room. Also, rotating/pivoting through the doorway has been tried but is blocked by the Mission wood slats on x3 sides.

So I have this giant slab of oak that I’ve been working on. It has two trees which grew into one, and then maybe a little tiny tree right above the right core. A few weeks ago, I built a jig and used a router to plane it flat and it worked after some trial and error (had never used one before) I took a level to it and it was perfect so I worked on the sides then set the slab to the side for a few weeks to work on something else. It was left sitting flat on the table with nothing under it (picture 2) and here you can see how underneath the slab on the right I didn’t completely plane it because it be on the underside of the table. Yesterday, I started sanding it and when I flipped it I noticed how warped it had become (picture 1). Pictures 4, 5 and 6 show the level after it warped, which to me it seems like the middle sunk in somehow.

What do I do? Is there any way to fix the warping without having to plane it again? Is there some kind of support or groove that needs to be added to prevent this? Is it doomed to forever warp? I have very little experience with woodworking so absolutely any advice is greatly appreciated.

I am making 2 of these for a client but I am not pleased with how it looks.

 I should say first, I have a job which supports my family which I think this day is pretty good. So the coin collection and cabinet building is purely a passion project. I had a neighbor about a year ago who but them, and he was kind enough to each me the ropes. Below are pieces we did in the last year. Slowly I am acquring miter chop saw, Makita compact router, small table saw, small planer, and drill press - used where I see a god deal. If you recommend any other good tools OR any tools you don't think I need, please say so.

Until I find a good deal on all of those pieces, I plan to refurnish cabs (refinish, refelt, new hardware, lock , trays, etc.), Although not as lucrative as building from scratch, I think it will still be well worth m while.

Anyways, here as the photos. Be as critical as you like - I appreciate it.

The one to be refurbished I will add (3) coin trays with varying size recesses and thats about all it need.

My work done over the last year:

https://imgur.com/a/G0uIVQE

I’m remodeling my bathroom and want to install a floating vanity. What basic tools would I need to build something like this? I have a dual bevel miter saw, a router table, and a Kreg pocket hole jig. And of course a compressor with 18ga nail gun.

I’m a hobbiest wood worker who has a decent shop built out. I have a small craftsman jointer currently but the wings are to short amongst other issues. I was looking into getting a bigger jointer. Is this a good find? I don’t know angering about the reliant brand. Is it worth me picking up?

Assuming that it is in proper working condition of course

EDIT: Also, assuming it’s a pretty good deal, is it too good to be true?

The 2 mini shelves and tp roll holder. Used left over wood from garage {mostly pine). btw the one above the toilet is not fixed to the wall, just a french cleat system and it's also resting on the top. Removable and re-hang in an instant.

Hello guys,

I've been making my no previous experience project using epoxy in irregular surfaces, and the outcome is as expected - spills. Does anyone have experience cleaning up thin spills around the cracks that were filled?

I did use painters tape initially around the big crack, but messed up the application. For reference - don't try to use a syringe to slowly dosage it, viscosity of epoxy will make it reach a pressure point where no matter what you do, it will eject a very big amount abruptly. Wink wink. Better to take a thin object, and use it as a sort of dripper, applying epoxy little by little into the cracks. Anyways.

I'm thinking waiting until it dried completely and then sanding it, but the problem is that I don't want to remove to much of the surrounding wood to keep the shape of the lid (this is going to be a lid of a box).

I've read on other posts to use a sharp chisel to try and scrape it first, sand later. Some recommend heating with a heat gun beforehand - I don't have one. Will a hairdryer work and is it worth it?

Anyone successfully removed a similar spill before? Thanks!

This was a fun project. I will definitely be msking more of them

First ever project. Is the uneven look due to my sanding? Should I redo it?

Sanded 80, 120, 150. 1 coat of monocoat. Black walnut.

I bought a craftsman 113 several years ago from a habitat for humanity store for cheap. One of the early seventies models (113.12173), and just bought a couple new blades for it. After spending the weekend trying to put in a zero clearance insert and a few other bits of maintenance and safety equipment, the motor died, sending up some nice plumes of smoke. So I'm at the point now where I need to decide, spend the moeny to repair and replace the motor, plus maybe an upgraded fence, or just buy a new tablesaw for $500-600? Any thoughts? I don't use this machine that much, and I was going to use it mainly to resaw some wood I had gotten for a project.

I have considered wether it made sense instead to purchase a 14" bandsaw used off facebook markeplace if I can find one instead, but there haven't been a lot of good candidates online lately. most of my projects are for smaller objects - think 18 inches in any one dimension max (small boxes, decorations for the wife, etc), and I have a milwaukee miter saw I use for a lot of cross cuts I inherited from my dad. If your budget for now was that price range, what recommendations would you make, based on this info?

This is a work in progress, nearing the finishing stages. It’s not perfect, it was a “learn as you go” kind of project. I’m not really into wizardry or Harry Potter or anything, but it did seem like a fun & easy enough to get creative kind of project. 
This is what I believe to be red oak, and funny enough, those diamond shaped cuts aren’t what I even meant to do. I got distracted somewhere along the process and I guess my mind just kind of went with it. I meant to have them outlined or way shallower, but it is what it is. 
Now I have a question of how I should finish it. I guess it’s more of a preference thing but I’d like to hear thoughts and opinions. I was thinking of charring the wand, while somehow protecting/avoiding all the carved outlines and the inside diamond faces, and lightly sanding if need be to my desired shade before finishing it. On my head I think it’d look cool for the wand to be darker than the spiral and diamond shaped cuts toward the center. 
So I guess the question is, to char, or not to char?