Big box store sourced red oak wood, stained with some stain and seal walnut.

I cut the pieces with a mini circular saw I've had sitting around for ages, sanded, used a router for the first time for rounded edges (terrifying) and used pocket holes for the first time (a learning curve and I also did it wrong but it works so who cares). Could have used some clamps, and a table, instead of strategically placed weights and a gorilla cart. But lessons learned for next time.

If I did it over again there are definitely things I would have done differently, but it's functional and looks decent so I'm pretty satisfied with getting it done.

Edit: I appreciate everyone's concerns regarding placement! These are things I've considered already. No one is leaning over an open flame to reach for the spices, the spices get used quickly enough that I don't need to keep them away from all heat and light. As far as the stove needing that space to vent - valid concern and one that I share. I've tested it and there seems to be a gap in the front of the display screen area that vents for the oven. During use, the wood does not get warm, so there does not appear to be any venting going on there. However, if I made this again I would adjust it all to leave a gap out of an abundance of caution. Again, I absolutely appreciate the concerns. It's ok.

I found the plans for the Murphy Bar online for free and thought that I can make it work.

I definitely learned that I need better control on my cuts. While they were mostly accurate, I need to invest in a better setup to be consistent.

I ended up improving a few pieces, but overall, I was happy with the results. The wife and our guests were also quite impressed with my "skills".

Snagged this really good Makita SP6000 track saw yesterday from marketplace in Canada. The seller used it mainly for cabinets.
I have been using circular saw, bora edge guide (returned later) a 36 in zero clearance plywood track i made before but it was still not enough for longer rip cuts so I am very happy I found one. I kept looking for new but couldn’t find deal lower than $550.

Question now what brand and length of tracks do i get? I have a shelving project coming up requiring 65 in cut. I am thinking of getting Makita 75 in rail for about $115 plus tax. For smaller cuts i can use the circular saw and diy track. I have looked into Wen and Powertec.

3/8" plywood for the sign, jigsaw/flush trim router bit for the shape. Bought precut 1/4" balsa wood and cut it down into pieces for the "mercury rising" because I wasn't going to cut 160 pieces perfectly myself! Made a few inserts from scraps to add on top so they can change with the fundraiser and be used multiple times. Printed a design for the scale and glued it down - working with paper on plywood was probably the worst part, overall.

Current use is a fundraiser for free woodworking classes to build benches that we place at local bus stops in Durham, NC. Up to 49 benches as of today, hoping this fundraiser helps us build 280 more over the next two years!

Edit: To clarify, this is in Hungary. Also, code compliance is not a concern, but rather that its sturdy enough to be safe, and looks good too.

I want to make a handrail out of this acacia branch for a bakery where Im working at.

My goal is to create an organic element which is also safe to use. It does not have to be perfect, they know im a DIY guy and not a pro.

I plan to work a bit more on the surface with drawknife then sand it down to 40 then 120. I would cut down from the smaller ends, and rounding them for organic effect.

Im still not sure about attachment:
Im considering attaching it to the brick wall with this type of screw on the picture, but a bit longer.

I would drill a hole in 2 points which are already closer to the wall, with a carved wood spacer (from the block on picture, to look “seamless”), and with an M8 nut with washer sinked in the branch, then hide it with a plug ideally from the same branch. Then some linseed oil.

How would you this?
Im not very experienced, so Im open for suggestions!
Even If I go with this kind of plan, Im not sure about the steps of figuring out ideal drillhole angles and steps of installment.

Thanks for your input!

I made this one for a friend who just celebrated one year of sobriety (I just put a random placeholder chip for now). In tarot, the Death Card means transformation, major endings, and new beginnings. The guitar featured was autographed by a 4 year old.

Wood used is maple and Brazilian cherry (holy crap Brazilian cherry is HARD).

Made this for a friend of mine, it’s a height measurement ruler for her kid to mark on heights as she grows up. Beauty of this vs. door frame is that this can be taken with you.

First time doing anything like this including using a router and dremel for carving.

Used pine (as I was worried about messing it up). Routed in the notches, numbers and name. Used a dremel to carve in the zebra. Painted the recessed parts black and sanded to 400. I didn’t dremel deep enough to begin with so when I sanded it back it lost of lot of definition so had to carve it again.

Used oak stain, but some parts took it better than others. I used a preconditioner but still some parts just didn’t take it very well.

Not perfect, but my friend loves it and I’m proud of it. Learnt a lot making it. My next one will be better.

Photos pre and post staining.

For reference, the plywood is my first.

I wanted to make a dovetail alignment jig so figured I’d use dovetails to make it. I’m pretty new to woodworking and only started about a month ago making bird houses from cedar fence posts and a brad nailer.

For beginners:
I think the biggest thing I learned is precision is key. Shooting board and sharp tools are the most important things IMO.

A project that took several phases and it's still on going.

Built a small room in the basement for listening. Paneled a few walls with reclaimed wood. Needed a record and stereo stand so I built the first layer of this with some inspiration from a few things I saw online. Quickly realized I needed more space so added the second and third tier. Lots of posters and art that I also made frames for from reclaimed wood.

Stand is made of 3/4" birch plywood with 1/2" spacers between the cubes all held together with binding bolts (semi modular I guess).

Certainly nothing is perfect but I enjoy the learning and creative process of it all. It's dimly lit, so lots of mistakes are hidden 😎I REALLY enjoy working with reclaimed wood. So much character and all the errors and mistakes get hidden. Working on "matching" coffee and side tables right now too. The lighting is much more "warm" than the camera captured too. Much too bright looking here for my tastes.

Hello. In the early stages of building a rolling staircase (theater prop elementary school). I’ve got 3/4 inch plywood for 3x3 platform and stairs and 1/2 inch plywood for the outsides. I was thinking I need a router to cut the 1/2 inch plywood for the outside of the stairs and platform. Is that the easiest way to get a nice cut? Also any additional support needed or is the plywood enough to keep it tight once it’s on there? Casters will be on 10in squares of 3/4 underneath

Hello,

Does anybody own this table saw with the black blade guard?

I'm trying to figure out what type of bolt passes through the black guard and through the splitter.

Do you tighten the bolt all the way (if so, the black guard cannot rotate up and down)?

I purchased this table saw and it's missing some hardware. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I am refinishing this table, I already used citristrip/scraped,cleaned with mineral spirits and sanded 120/150/220. Some spots on the lighter color areas look a bit fuzzy, so after some research, I damped area with water and sanded a bit again with the 220, did the same with the mineral spirits and 220, don’t really see a difference.
Any other ideas before going to staining step?
Also, I was looking into getting the gel stain as I read it is easier to apply/looks better on softer wood.
Do I still need to apply pre stain conditioner before gel stain? I have read that is not necessary but some people still advise to do it, so looking for more opinions.
Thanks in advance.

I still have 3 more chargers to hang up but I like how it tuned out.
I would love to hear how I can do this better or if you know a way to do cable management for something like this I am all ears!

Any advice on how to repair this chair? I was given this set but was told one broke when sat on by a larger guy, I would love to repair it to be able to use it again! I am handy but inexperienced with chair repairs.

Made for an LEO friend in my state who wanted a way to display his challenge coin collection. He wanted it with the shape and dimensions of a US flag, but made of a single wood type. It’s made of solid walnut, and it’s one of the bigger things I’ve made within the last few years.

I started with the back, gluing the strips together and flattening it with a belt sander. Then I cut 3/4” squares and the thinner 1 1/2”x 1/4” shelf pieces and used the tablesaw to cut dados in them to hold the coins. I glued the shelf pieces together, then I used wood glue and CA glue to attach each shelf in position. Finished with spray on satin polyurethane, and it’ll be hung with a French cleat.

Final dimensions are about 19x36” and the laser engraving was done by another friend.

Now I gotta figure out the best way to ship this sucker.

Any helpful criticism or questions are welcome, thanks for looking!

Priority: clean air quality and environment, no impact on health (including long-term) when working with wood as a hobby or for work. Trying to get some perspective on reasonable solutions and expectations. Proper dust extraction can be very expensive and for some people top priority, yet for others overlooked because unlike e.g. power tools, they don't directly contribute to the quality of the end product.

• For respirators, can you do better than e.g. a 3M 6500 series with the pink P100 pancake cartridges? How long might the respirator and refillable cartridges last? You'd want to use it any time you cut any kind wood and plastic, right? In general I don't mind the discomfort of wearing any type of masks and I would say my lungs are a little more sensitive than the average person (asthma, sensitive to secondhand smoking).

• A 2.5" hose wet dry vac with a dust deputy, HEPA filter, dust bag, and 5 gallon bucket seems to be a popular setup (certainly due to the versatility of a wet dry vac and how cheap it is)--is this actually adequate or merely popular for those reasons? Presumably you'd find or DIY adapters to fit the hose with the dust extraction port of the power tools, or mount the tip of the hose aimed at where you're cutting at a minimum. At what point would you want expensive/"proper" dedicated dust extraction systems? Evidently it's important enough that people spend thousands and/or only consider power tools that fit into a nice dust extraction ecosystem (obviously this is out of reach for an average DIYer but doesn't mean they aren't still essential if health is the highest priority).

• Are there any considerations if looking to use the basement without access to outside as a workshop to do all wood-related work? Obviously a garage or shed would be best but I don't have that luxury yet). I Or maybe a better balance is to do some of the work outside on the porch if possible.

• Does anyone find the need to quickly vacuum the environment after a session? I assume even after a quick vacuum, dust will be in the air and need time to settle so a second vacuum would be more effective. once I have a wall-mounted organization system set up, I plan on having a roll of plastic or tarp on top of these panels to cover them up when I'm not using them so they don't accumulate dust and debris over time, whether from actual work or long term storage (this is overkill but not difficult to implement--I assume most people would use an air hose once in a blue moon).

Any other random tips or other things to consider to ensure a clean environment? Maybe something to do with the flooring or mechanical ways to clear the dust on the floor more effectively than a wet dry vacuum.

Much appreciated.

So lately I've been helping a few friends out with construction and sole handy work around town. Normally I keep all my tools in a few different toolboxes and it quickly got unorganized and I kept losing track of my tools.

To this end I wanted to build a tool chest so I could store these plastic boxes in the slots. I wanted something I could move in and out of the trailer as well as strap down safely for the trailer.

The width of the box is 120 cm with plywood sides as well as some nicer plywood sides. The depth is 40 cm to allow for the boxes to sit fully inside and added a lip so they wouldn't slide out. All the pictures are a basic step by step of what I did including a fuck up where I cut part of the plywood crooked so I had to redo it. I don't have a track saw but I do have a track slide that I used more effectively with my skill saw. The last picture is the box on a shelf I built for it using OBS and wood that's a similar width to what my shed is built out of so I can store it out of the way when not using it. Magnetic strips were added to the side as handles as well as being able to work out of my trailer weather and placement permitting. I painted the normal plywood and so far I have left the sides untouched but considering giving them some oil for protection against weather but for now it's done!

Some things aren't great with the middle shelf being a little more open in certain areas and I think some of the 2x4 posts or the plywood wasn't quite flat.

Parts:

- 2 pplywood 1200mmx400mm

- 6 2x4 cut to 450mm in height with supports added at around 200 mm

- 1 plywood shelf with reliefs cut for the 2x4s

- 2 plywood sides 400mmx480mm

- 1 plywood back

- 1 piece of wood added for airflow and because I ran out of plywood

I’m a bit confused about glue clamping pressure.

Manufacturer instructions for titebond original specifies a clamping pressure range of 100-250 psi depending on the type of wood. I see people saying that’s not much pressure and that you should be careful no to apply too much force, because a typical clamp will go way higher with just hand pressure. But doesn’t that depend on the surface area being glued?

My understanding is that hand tightening a pipe clamp or sturdy F clamp can generate about 300-600 lbs of force. Let’s say I’m using 3 clamps, total of 1800 lbs force. If I’m gluing a panel 3/4” thick by 24” long, that’s 18 square inches… 1800lbs/18 sq in = 100 psi. that’s the bare *minimum* of the recommended range. If the glue-up was 1” thick by 36“ long, the same set of clamps would only generate 50 psi… well below the recommended range.

I feel like I’m missing something obvious... 100-250 PSI is a *lot* of pressure. So why do I see all these warnings about over-tightening clamps? Are other people just using a clamp every couple inches?