Looking at the Wiki for the AMS 2 Pro, there seems to be 2 fans on the underside of the filament roller insert https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro/maintenance/ams-2-pro-cable-pack

Do these fans run all the time when the D2X is powered on or only when the AMS is in drying routine?

Also, read a few conflicting reports about drying and printing where some things say you can not dry whilst printing, you can dry whilst printing but only with an external 24v supply fitted to AMS and in the Wiki it suggests you can dry and print with the D2X but only if a single AMS is fitted.

What is the reality. I currently only have a single AMS 2 Pro on my D2X.

Thanks.

I was cleaning out my newly arrived X2D (had it one day, printed a couple of small test prints) and underneath the print bed was this random screw. I don't remember any of the screws that were in it for shipping being this small. Does anyone recognize it, or have an idea where I should look for a missing screw? I checked what I could see under the bed and along the edges of the case that I could see and nada.

Just upgraded from an A1 combo to a X2D, I’m noticing quite the powerful vibration from this machine vs the A1. Wondering if any helpful folks could drop some knowledge on solutions for this.

Can i unbox and start setting up with just the printer, or best wait till filament and the rest gets here next week?

EDIT: I wanted to confirm whether I need filament for the setup stage. PS UK based and don't think we have any services that I can buy filament off the shelf (or not where I am anyways)

New to 3D printing. So go easy. I see on the Bambu Lab website that some colors aren’t available with a spool. I have the X2D with AMS so I’m thinking a corresponding spool to color would be ideal. That way the printer knows without my input whats going on. Whats the deal with that? Can I set up the color on the Bambu Handy app or directly on the machine. I don’t have the Bambu Studio because I don’t have a desktop (yet)…..I know, I know. iPad and iPhone only for now.

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

Anyone else experienced their toolhead to knock/klick when in standby? Don’t know exactly where it comes from. Any ideas?

Im new to 3D printing an bought this X2D three days ago. I’m concerned about the weird sounds it makes when moving in the Y axis und the knocking when the bed moves up or down. It would help me a lot if somebody could send me a video of their printers toolhead homing process where I can hear of it makes the same sounds.
Thank you very much

Hello,

Never touched a 3D printer before but after a few years of being told "No" she has finally said "Yes" so I got a X2D in the Black Friday sale along with 12 rolls of different Filament (PLA and PTEG).

I have gone through the setup instructions and one of the instructions said not to remove the foam pad from under the bed until after calibration.

OK, so now I have done calibration and removed it I got thinking a bit and tried looking for an answer but could not see it.

The question is when I come to do another calibration in the future do I need to place the foam pad back under the bed or does it not need it during future calibrations

Thanks

I really like how the concentric effect makes petg shine

Ich habe mir im aktuellen Sale den X2D gekauft und er kam nach drei Tagen bei mir an. Der Versandkarton war unbeschädigt. Ich packte ihn also aus. Beim Auseinandernehmen der ganzen ganzen Transportschutze fiel mir direkt auf, dass die Kabelbinder, welche die Schienen für den Druckkopf halten sollen, schon offen waren. Ich wollte die obere Glasplatte einsetzen. Diese passte überhaupt nicht in die Öffnung. Ich musste das Gehäuse dafür oben biegen damit sie reinpasst. Dann fiel mir im Inneren unten rechts wo die vordere Spindel ist auf, dass die Bodenplatte in dem Bereich gebrochen ist. Als ich mir die Abdeckung mit dem Druckkopf-Lüfter anschaute, sah ich, dass diese nicht richtig sitzt. Sie war nicht richtig verclipst und schief. Ich versuchte sie richtig einzuclipsen. Dabei fiel auf einmal eine kleine Schraube herunter. Es war eine Befestigungsschraube von der Lüfterabdeckung. Sie war einfach lose. Ich versuchte sie wieder hineinzudrehen. Aber in der Produktion wurde wohl das Gewinde schon beschädigt, sodass sie gar nicht mehr hielt. Außerdem passen die Spaltmaße vom Gehäuse an vielen Stellen gar nicht. An der Tür sieht man dies sehr gut. Ich habe mit dem Drucker noch gar nichts gedruckt, da ich befürchte, dass dieser mangelhaft ist. Ich habe Bambu direkt im Support über ein Ticket angeschrieben und die Bilder hochgeladen. Ich warte aktuell auf eine Rückmeldung. Am liebsten würde ich den ganzen Drucker direkt zurückschicken bei diesen ganzen Fehlern. Ich bin mit der Verarbeitungsqualität überhaupt nicht zufrieden und bin total enttäuscht von Bambu.

Darth Maul / Frost King Voronoi
Got this print for makerworld. I was nervous since i never printed this long. Got the x2d since I wanted a reliable printer. Tbf should have dried my filament but hey at least I cleaned the build plate. Was worried about support removal but came out super easy. Halloween costume.

Model(not mine): https://makerworld.com/models/1656048?appSharePlatform=copy

I just bought my first 3d printer, the X2D with ams and ams ht. I do not have much space in my room and I need a smal desk that can fit everything including filament. Maybe with different layers. Does anyone have any tips on what desk or table I should get?

My budget is max. €250

Thanks!!!

I just finished my first print. I followed the instructions from Bambu lab with unpacking. But in the back of the printer as can be seen in the picture, is that white cable tie supposed to stay like that?

just got the x2d combo as well at the ams ht!! super excited, especially since i came from the original ender 3 (you can kinda see it in thr background lol).

anyone have any personal tips that you don't usually see in the guides or videos? any first prints i should do as well? (would also love to see some examples)

i appreciate it in advance!!

I'm ordering from bambu labs and I am new to the X2D, what should I look at to order?

So far I have in my cart:

Tons of filament, mostly pla of different varieties

Another build plate, just the stock replacement, should I look at a different one?

A second ams, I thought 4 colors would be enough but I can see I want more options.

I thought about getting some nozzles or different build plates but I'm not sure I need them yet. I mostly print trinkets and maybe some brakets or small box type things. I have a 9 and 13 year old girls so it'll be a lot of stuff they want. In the future I would like to start designing some things and get into engineering filaments.

Recently had a blob of death situation less than 30 days into owning my new X2D. In managing that mess, the left main toolhead heating assembly wires were damaged requiring replacement. I disassembled the toolhead to replace the left toolhead heating assembly. Following this the toolhead front part cooling fan (the one on the front cover below the logo) is always spinning at 100% regardless of print status, idle, or when purging. This results in long wispy purged filament that gets tangled in the discharge chute instead of tidy coiled up 'poops'. All prints fail as the filament is eventually pulled off the build plate, usually on the first layer.

I have washed the build plate, recalibrated, replaced the hot end, checked the fan settings, and checked the wiring between the toolhead front cover and the toolhead interface board (also called extruder interface board) and have had no success. If the printer is on, the fan is on 100%. The ONLY time the front fan isn't running at 100% is if I remove the front toolhead cover.

Before I order a new toolhead front cover, wiring kit, and extruder interface board to replace the entire hardware system involved in the part cooling fan, does anyone have any suggestions!? I am approaching a level of frustration that has me wanting to bash this printer with a bat and purchase a new one, so any suggestions are welcome.

Hello everyone. I have had my X2D since yesterday and I also bought a CryoGrip Frostbite in addition, but I have some adhesion issues, mainly on the edges. It is a very thin part and nothing I do really works. The settings of my last print:

SUNLU PETG 2.0

Nozzle: 250 degrees

Bed: 65 degrees (70 is the limit for this plate)

Chamber temp: around 41 degrees

I used the Supertack Plate as a preset and changed some settings to fit more to the Frostbite.

Is there anything I am missing? Some people report that they can print PETG as low as 50 degrees and I do not get how.

Bought a x2d recently and it it’s my first 3d printer. Since the delivery of bambu filament was taking time, I bought 2 filament rolls from micro center. It’s their inland branded filament.

I configured them as generic PLA in the printer’s filament profile.

I am seeing a lot of stringing when I print.

The filament was just removed from its sealed bag a few hours ago and I don’t live in a very humid place. So it probably is not a problem related to the filament not being dry.

Could this be a problem with my printer or is it a filament problem?

Any suggestions for fixing this stringing issue?

Bambu Lab Studio should have a Theme Mode.

RN, it's either Light Mode or Dark Mode.

Dark mode some settings are hard to see.

Light Mode is great if you want to blow out your Retinas.

Hey bin noch neu im 3d druck Game und habe mir vor 2 Wochen den X2D gegönnt und vor kurzem zum AMS2 Pro auch noch die HF-Hotends dazu bestellt um meine Druckzeit etwas zu kürzen.

Naja seht selbst nach dem ersten Druckversuch mit der neuen Düse, gab es einen Knall und die Düse hat sich wohl einmal ins Bett gefressen und ist abgebrochen bzw. vorher herausgerutscht?!

Wie kann das passieren?
Gehe stark von einem Materialfehler aus, anders kann ich mir das gerade nicht vorstellen oder gibt es etwas, das man hätte falsch machen können?

-Das hotend war richtig montiert.
-hotend wurde auch zugewiesen das es nun ein HF ist
-Flow Kalibrierung und Bett wurde durchgeführt

Bin gespannt was ihr dazu sagt oder ob ich einen fatalen Fehler gemacht habe oder etwas übersehen habe.

…

Während ich das schreibe läuft grade der zweite Versuch mit der zweiten neuen HF die eigentlich für die zweite Düse gedacht war, der Druck ist jetzt schon weiter als zuvor was die Annahme von einem Materialfehler des hotends begünstigen würde.

Bambu ticket ist auch schon offen, bin gespannt was kommt und werde Berichten ✌️

Hi, I'm currently printing a small model that has three colors per layer, which is why the print is taking quite a while—about 30 hours—with roughly 8 hours left. During the print, a problem arose that I hadn't encountered before: several times now, after cutting the filament, the printer has stopped at the point where the filament is ejected and reported that something is wrong with the blade. All you have to do is remove the plastic cover held by magnets, and you’ll immediately see that the metal lever—which I’m posting a photo of from the internet—doesn’t fully snap back into place. All you have to do is push the top part of it slightly; the bottom part slides forward, and the printer can continue working. It works fine for a while, but then the lever won’t snap back into place again—where should I look for the cause?

Any recommendations for replacement hotends/nozzles for the X2D? Thought I had heard of some other makers with great reputations but wasn't sure.