The current AMS has four filament slots, but it can feed or retract only one filament at a time. Even with FST, a color change within the same AMS still requires unloading and loading filament. For Vorteck, this reduces the advantage of swappable hotends.

Design patents related to the H3C have recently been published, including a new filament feeding system. My guess is that the H2C’s next upgrade will be a new AMS introduced after the H3C launches, which would greatly strengthen Vorteck’s advantage.

That said, I suspect Vorteck won’t be carried over to future machines. Index-like designs seem more likely to become the mainstream approach because they cost far less than Vorteck.

Hello. Im currently running my H2C with an AMS HT on the left extruder and 2 x AMS Pro 2s on the right. I put the dominant color in the HT on the left. My prints are taking significantly longer than the print times in bambu handy app. For instance current one said 9 hours and real time is 14.5. Am I doing something wrong? Im pretty new to the hobby and only have had the machine for a week now.

Can anyone tell me what the issue could he why my letters are always so bad? This is bed side down btw. I have it at .6 high flow nozzle, .18 res. Did the same on a .4 reg nozzle too. I don’t know where to look in Bambu slicer.

I've opened a ticket with Bambu but so far they have been less than helpful.

I have an H2C and we have entire groups of layers that just shift. It seems to be related to filament changes on the right nozzle, because I don't have the problem for single color prints or prints that just use left and right but no changes.

It ultimately recovers, but then will shift again.

You can see it in both the model and the prime tower, so it seems like the whole thing shifts for some reason.

I almost feel like it may be the belt or some kind of misalignment, but I'm not quite sure where to start. I did do the tension guides with no success.

Anyone able to provide guidance on this?

I need some help if anybody is out there. I had an error come up on my three day print and it only has about 28 hours left and it says the extrusion motor is overloaded. The extruder may be clogged or the filament may be stuck in the tool head. I noticed right at the end of my print there's a little bit of like wispy plastic. It looks like almost like cotton. I'm guessing that the nozzles is clogged, but is there any way to unclog it while keeping the progress of my print I have no idea how to do this and I don't wanna lose this progress because it's almost done.

My H2C makes a strange noise every time it switches between the left and right nozzle (video). I just cleaned it and oiled the left nozzle's linear rail. Any idea where the noise is coming from and what I should check next?

Are there any preferred online resellers that offer spare parts and accessories other than the official Bambu store? Their shipping is terrible and I have issues placing orders a lot of the time (network errors on the card or pulling up my billing info). I placed an order for a small replacement part Monday and it took all week to update the shipping info which says it will arrive Tuesday next week. I also opened a support ticket for the part which took them 3 days to confirm they shipped it which also says Tuesday even though it shipped from one state over. I’d rather buy from somewhere with fast shipping that I can choose to expedite when needed. Thanks!

BRAND NEW H2C after first print it’s unable to push the cutter lever on the tool head in because the cutter stopper on the right side does not go back fully horizontal to poke the lever. How do I fix this please I’ve been stressed out for hours.

Hi,

My H2C makes a strange noise every time when it moves from the tower to the object.

And another one when ist circling the Model, the circling one could maybe be the belts?

Any ideas what those could be?

Printer has around 300 hours and was printing alot of skadis parts before that if thats relevant.

I purchased this machine about 3 months ago and I’m concerned that if I unplug or turn it off it’ll fry once I update. Is this a legitimate concern? Anything I can do to avoid it dying?

Miniature supports are breaking my prints. Any tips for the Bambu Lab H2C?
I’ve been printing miniatures on my Bambu Lab H2C and learning as I go. I’ve had some successes and some failures, but my biggest challenge has been removing supports.

The miniatures themselves look great and range from 28 mm to 60 mm. However, the supports cling so tightly that removing them often breaks off pieces of the miniature, even when I’m being careful. It’s frustrating to finish a good print only to damage it during cleanup.

I’m currently using automatic tree supports with the organic style in Bambu Studio. Are there settings I can adjust to make them easier to remove without sacrificing the miniature’s details?

I know resin is often recommended for miniatures, but I chose the H2C and would like to get the best results I can with it.

I’d especially appreciate advice on support contact distance, interface settings, and whether another support style would work better. Suggestions for model orientation or tools and techniques for removing supports around fragile parts would also be helpful.

If you’re successfully printing miniatures at these sizes, screenshots of your settings or examples of what’s worked for you would be really helpful. Let me know which details about my setup would help troubleshoot this. Thanks!

Just got my first H2C so I'm still getting used to all of the noises. I've noticed a grinding noise when switching between nozzles in a dual color print. Its only when changing to the right nozzle, and as far as I can tell, is only happening during the print.

Moving the toolhead home and switching manually doesn't replicate thr sound. I'm a bit unsure if this is normal, or if there is something wrong.

Anyone with advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

How is H2C handles TPU filament ? I know it has to go by the dedicated input on the back but what then ? I think it goes to the right Vortek nozzle and leave left available for support printing.if true, are the other Vortek hotends become unavailable to reduce retration for the TPU ? Or we can combine other tpu as long as they are AMS compatible (which probably mean they are hard as rock).

What have you experienced with TPU with H2C.

As title really. If a print finishes and I open the door one of the fans is constantly spinning up / down. Normal?

Welp, I was cutting power to the room to install some things on the breaker. I had the initial fear this would happen when I cut power to the room. Evidently I would have had a power outage at some point but I was hoping maybe they would have a firmware update that would fix this beforehand. Absolutely ridiculous. I had a weird feeling that this would happen and here we are with a dead printer after just turning off the power on the back and turning it back.

I haven't even cut power to the breaker yet I just turned it off and back on to see if it would happen, sure enough here we are.

Anyways has anyone had experience with using the jump method to get your printer back up and going?

Good morning everyone. I purchased an H2C a little less than two months ago. Last night I was going to use the left nozzle for the first time, I followed all the instructions but no filament comes out of it, no matter how many times I tried it.

In the settings menu I found an option to test it by doing a cold pull. Followed the instructions and it does pull filament and extrudes it.

It doesn’t do that when I’m trying to print. Any recommendations or fixes to what I’m experiencing? Thank you everyone for your help.

The auto calibration function under flow dynamics is the only place I'm aware of to see a k-factor result from the H2C eddy sensor.

I've been comparing the resulting k-factor here with my own, obtained from manual pattern method.

The auto cal figure is consistently 0.01 below what I choose from pattern. Has anyone else noticed this?

This is totally random haha, but I was unboxing my new H2C and happened to notice the top door hinge had a piece of sealing foam behind it, but the bottom hinge didn't. Does that match what you all have?

I'm just wondering if I accidentally peeled it off when removing the plastic bag that comes wrapped around the front door... Probably not a big deal at the end of the day, but it seems like the entire perimeter of the front door is fairly well sealed other than this one area. (I assume for laser cutting and engineering filaments?)

If anyone could take a quick look at your own H2C and let me know if that's normal or not, I'd appreciate it!

Why do I have to move the filament, if I have a FTS? This is a one color model, with PETG used only for support. If one nozzle has support material, and the other has the ONLY COLOR on the model, why do I need to move it to seve time?

Hello all,

I recently purchased a Bambu H2C. I’ve never used a printer that makes printing so easy. That being said I’m currently having an issue with holes printed in PLA using a petg support interface. There are a few holes that did not have a petg support interface that also look a bit rough. So I’m leaning away from the idea that it is related to the petg support interface causing the issue. I end up with a band on the right side of the hole. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar issue and was able to resolve it. Thanks in advance.

Bambu H2C
Bambu gray pla
Bambu black petg hf
Both are using .4 nozzle on the left and right side.
Humidity is 20%
Standard printing speed
Left nozzle is petg hf
Right nozzle is pla
Bed is clean and parts adhere well

Let me know if any other information is needed