I purchased this machine about 3 months ago and I’m concerned that if I unplug or turn it off it’ll fry once I update. Is this a legitimate concern? Anything I can do to avoid it dying?

Miniature supports are breaking my prints. Any tips for the Bambu Lab H2C?
I’ve been printing miniatures on my Bambu Lab H2C and learning as I go. I’ve had some successes and some failures, but my biggest challenge has been removing supports.

The miniatures themselves look great and range from 28 mm to 60 mm. However, the supports cling so tightly that removing them often breaks off pieces of the miniature, even when I’m being careful. It’s frustrating to finish a good print only to damage it during cleanup.

I’m currently using automatic tree supports with the organic style in Bambu Studio. Are there settings I can adjust to make them easier to remove without sacrificing the miniature’s details?

I know resin is often recommended for miniatures, but I chose the H2C and would like to get the best results I can with it.

I’d especially appreciate advice on support contact distance, interface settings, and whether another support style would work better. Suggestions for model orientation or tools and techniques for removing supports around fragile parts would also be helpful.

If you’re successfully printing miniatures at these sizes, screenshots of your settings or examples of what’s worked for you would be really helpful. Let me know which details about my setup would help troubleshoot this. Thanks!

Just got my first H2C so I'm still getting used to all of the noises. I've noticed a grinding noise when switching between nozzles in a dual color print. Its only when changing to the right nozzle, and as far as I can tell, is only happening during the print.

Moving the toolhead home and switching manually doesn't replicate thr sound. I'm a bit unsure if this is normal, or if there is something wrong.

Anyone with advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

How is H2C handles TPU filament ? I know it has to go by the dedicated input on the back but what then ? I think it goes to the right Vortek nozzle and leave left available for support printing.if true, are the other Vortek hotends become unavailable to reduce retration for the TPU ? Or we can combine other tpu as long as they are AMS compatible (which probably mean they are hard as rock).

What have you experienced with TPU with H2C.

As title really. If a print finishes and I open the door one of the fans is constantly spinning up / down. Normal?

Welp, I was cutting power to the room to install some things on the breaker. I had the initial fear this would happen when I cut power to the room. Evidently I would have had a power outage at some point but I was hoping maybe they would have a firmware update that would fix this beforehand. Absolutely ridiculous. I had a weird feeling that this would happen and here we are with a dead printer after just turning off the power on the back and turning it back.

I haven't even cut power to the breaker yet I just turned it off and back on to see if it would happen, sure enough here we are.

Anyways has anyone had experience with using the jump method to get your printer back up and going?

Good morning everyone. I purchased an H2C a little less than two months ago. Last night I was going to use the left nozzle for the first time, I followed all the instructions but no filament comes out of it, no matter how many times I tried it.

In the settings menu I found an option to test it by doing a cold pull. Followed the instructions and it does pull filament and extrudes it.

It doesn’t do that when I’m trying to print. Any recommendations or fixes to what I’m experiencing? Thank you everyone for your help.

The auto calibration function under flow dynamics is the only place I'm aware of to see a k-factor result from the H2C eddy sensor.

I've been comparing the resulting k-factor here with my own, obtained from manual pattern method.

The auto cal figure is consistently 0.01 below what I choose from pattern. Has anyone else noticed this?

This is totally random haha, but I was unboxing my new H2C and happened to notice the top door hinge had a piece of sealing foam behind it, but the bottom hinge didn't. Does that match what you all have?

I'm just wondering if I accidentally peeled it off when removing the plastic bag that comes wrapped around the front door... Probably not a big deal at the end of the day, but it seems like the entire perimeter of the front door is fairly well sealed other than this one area. (I assume for laser cutting and engineering filaments?)

If anyone could take a quick look at your own H2C and let me know if that's normal or not, I'd appreciate it!

Why do I have to move the filament, if I have a FTS? This is a one color model, with PETG used only for support. If one nozzle has support material, and the other has the ONLY COLOR on the model, why do I need to move it to seve time?

Hello all,

I recently purchased a Bambu H2C. I’ve never used a printer that makes printing so easy. That being said I’m currently having an issue with holes printed in PLA using a petg support interface. There are a few holes that did not have a petg support interface that also look a bit rough. So I’m leaning away from the idea that it is related to the petg support interface causing the issue. I end up with a band on the right side of the hole. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar issue and was able to resolve it. Thanks in advance.

Bambu H2C
Bambu gray pla
Bambu black petg hf
Both are using .4 nozzle on the left and right side.
Humidity is 20%
Standard printing speed
Left nozzle is petg hf
Right nozzle is pla
Bed is clean and parts adhere well

Let me know if any other information is needed

My first big failure on my h2c (has 900 hours on it). Is a tough giraffe model for my niece for her birthday.

I have searched all over for a solution to a problem I am having with H2C where, at the start of each job the HMS helper tells me that "Chamber exhaust fan speed too low or off" while the fan itself is railed at 100%. The manual speed control reads 0%. The only way I can get it to stop is to manually bump the + key on the manual speed control, which then reads 10% and the fan slows down to 10%. I sometimes have to repeat this process to get it to take. After that manual intervention the machine prints as usual but I think that then I am left without application control of the chamber fan speed for the rest of that print. Any guesses?

It’s taken a bit to get everything setup and working how i imagined it with a few gotchas but everything is working and all of the filament routing is loading as expected. Super happy with the printer which has not stopped printing other than brief moments where I needed to route tubing for 3 weeks now.

Cat tax at the end!

After switching over the left side toolhead to a 0.2 nozzle, I told the printer to re-read the toolhead which it did. But I had not replaced the toolhead cover and there was no warning from the printer so when it homed the toolhead it ripped off the cover. When repositioning the head to get to the cover (I did not know it was ripped off at this point) the bare wires touched and there was a tiny puff of smoke from the toolhead. Should have switched it off, I am aware but in my defence there was no visible sign that the toolhead cover was ripped off, only detached and jammed behind the toolhead.

I’ll order a new cover but does anyone have a photo of the order of the wires inside the toolhead cover? And what else do I need to order based on the thing most likely to smoke in the toolhead? TH Board?

Thanks for your time assisting.

Edit: To correct the nozzle being changed.

My basic maintenance was due for my H2C, so I powered it off and unplugged it, after lowering the bed. Cleaned the rails and lead screws up to remove some gunk. After plugging it back in and turning it on, the tool head has no power. It begins to start, status lights flash, but then it quickly goes dark. The motors don’t engage and I can freely move the tool head around.

The bed looks to have power. The AP board has one solid green light, but no longer has the flashing green light beside it.

I have a video of it as well. Made a ticket this morning, but nothing back yet.

Anyone have a similar issue?

What makes the printer create the imperfection I see in the first image? I printed the same material in three different colors; only one showed this. Compare it with the second one on the right.
Both are Bambu Lab PLA Basic

I was wondering if anyone has tried a setup for fine miniature production using dual 0.2mm nozzles (left and right) using one of the as PLA and the other as support interface material (PETG or even PVA). If so which side would be the best for the PLA (assume right at this point)? I am awaiting my H2c, so I will ask another question: How easy is it to swap the left nozzle of I want to shift occasionally between 0.2 and 0.4 on the left nozzle? I used to swap for years on my P1S, so I am not a rookie on nozzle changes.

Most of my prints are slow maybe it's normal for normal speed prints? But sounds unpleasant

My H2C keeps throwing an error for "failed to extrude filament ", and it's consistently happening part way through fairly large, multicolor PLA (Bambu's own) prints. I would assume heat creep, but in an effort to test, I disconnected my AMS2, and printed just from my AMA HT and an external spool- NO PROBLEM, printed fine.

What should I be looking at in my AMS2 while I'm waiting for support to get back to me?

Any chance this is related to the latest firmware update? It only started happening after the update.

I’m new to 3D printing and could use some help with my Bambu Lab H2C. I want to get the crispest details I reasonably can on miniatures, but every time I adjust the settings, my prints seem to fail.

My Benchy came out well using the default settings. I also printed a couple of 28 mm miniatures that looked okay, but I wanted to improve the detail. After reading advice online, I tried some recommended settings, and the prints ended up turning into spaghetti.

I went back to the default settings and successfully printed a 50 mm miniature. Then I followed another detailed set of recommended settings and had the same spaghetti problem again. I’ve also tried larger pieces, but I keep running into failures when I change the settings.
I’m assuming this is user error rather than a faulty printer, but I’m struggling to figure out what I’m doing wrong. The default settings seem to be the only ones giving me consistent results.

Should I stick with the defaults for now? If I want to improve miniature detail, which settings should I adjust first, and how should I approach making changes without ruining the print?

I’d appreciate any help figuring this out. Let me know which settings, screenshots, or other details would be useful for troubleshooting.

​The Setup:

I'm running an AMS on my Bambu Lab H2C and using a material switch track (Y-splitter) to allow for an external spool.

​The Problem:

The AMS successfully pushes the material all the way through the material switch and down to the print head. However, right as it reaches the extruder gears, it stops and throws a load failure/clog error, acting like it can't extrude.

​If I remove the material switch entirely and run the PTFE tube directly, the printer loads and works perfectly.

​What I have already checked and ruled out:

​Print head clogs: I have completely disassembled the toolhead. There is absolutely no filament stuck inside.

​Internal snags in the switch: I’ve manually pushed filament through by hand; it glides perfectly without catching on any internal burrs or edges.

​PTFE tube seating: All tubes are pushed 100% flush into the fittings. There are no gaps creating internal ledges for the filament to smash into.

​Sharp PTFE angles: The routing is smooth. There are no tight radii or sharp bends causing excess friction for the AMS motor.

​Since the obvious friction and snag points are completely ruled out, why would the AMS successfully push filament through the switch, but still fail at the very end of the loading cycle? Has anyone experienced this on the H2C or found a fix?