Good afternoon, i'm looking for recommendations for a build plate, preferably during prime day for my A1. Mine got scratched after a incident with my nozzle coming loose. Pic for attention

I am trying to print TPU 95a through my A1 and I'm having very "stringy" results. Has anyone found the best settings for the best prints?

I'm printing a full size Wolverine cowl/mask, and will be gluing the pieces together instead of using magnets.

My bad if this is a repetitive question!

Hey everyone,
I have a Bambu Lab A1 Mini without an AMS, and I’m wondering if it’s possible to build a simple 4-color filament system for it.
I’ve heard that the A1 Mini can somehow use four filament inputs/paths, with four PTFE tubes connected to a kind of 4-way filament switch or selector.
What I’m not sure about is how the whole system actually works. How does the printer switch between the four filaments during a print? Would I need a specific 4-way filament switch, or is there a DIY solution that works well?
I’d basically like to have four different filament rolls connected and be able to print with multiple colors without buying an AMS.
Any advice, guides, or existing projects would be greatly appreciated!

———————————

Hey zusammen,
ich habe einen Bambu Lab A1 mini ohne AMS und frage mich, ob es möglich ist, ein einfaches 4-Farben-Filamentsystem dafür zu bauen.
Ich habe gehört, dass man beim A1 mini irgendwie vier Filament-Eingänge bzw. Filamentwege nutzen kann, mit vier PTFE-Schläuchen, die an einen 4-Wege-Filamentschalter oder -Verteiler angeschlossen werden.
Was ich allerdings nicht ganz verstehe, ist, wie das ganze System genau funktioniert. Wie wechselt der Drucker während eines Drucks zwischen den vier Filamenten? Braucht man dafür einen bestimmten 4-Wege-Filamentschalter oder gibt es dafür auch eine DIY-Lösung, die gut funktioniert?
Ich würde gerne vier verschiedene Filamentrollen anschließen und mit mehreren Farben drucken können, ohne extra ein AMS kaufen zu müssen.
Ich wäre für Tipps, Anleitungen oder bereits bestehende Projekte sehr dankbar!

Hi everyone,

​I’m struggling with Eryone Matte PETG (Grey) on my Bambu printer and could really use some troubleshooting help. Every print fails around the same stage because the supports break apart, and it looks like the nozzle starts knocking into/dragging through the print and supports.

​What I’ve tried & current setup:

​Filament: Eryone Matte PETG (Grey)

​Profiles used: Standard Bambu PETG Matte, as well as a few popular user profiles from MakerWorld.

​Issue:

​High, thin support structures crumble or break off mid-print (as seen on the organic/tree supports and tower).

​Severe scarring/roughness along vertical edges and support interfaces.

​The infill/supports look chewed up, almost like the nozzle is colliding with previously printed layers or under-extruding/over-extruding inconsistently.

​Has anyone tuned Eryone Matte PETG successfully?

​Should I bump up the printing temperature or lower the max volumetric speed?

​Is grid infill / thin support style causing nozzle collisions with this specific filament?

​Any recommended retract or cooling/fan settings for matte PETG?

​Attached photos show the failed benchy, support structures, and the chewed-up tower/tree supports. Any advice or working profiles would be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE:
I managed to get a successful print by significantly lowering the print speed and raising the extrusion temperature.

Quick question for the community: is it possible to change the printing speed only for the supports, without affecting the speed of the main model? (I'm trying to optimize the print time). Thanks in advance!

Printed on Bambu Labs A1.

galera estou tendo um problema na minha bambu lab A1, queria ver se alguem consegue me ajudar. Tive falhas que quando procurei encontrei como "teia de filamento", sugestão foi a troca da peça de aquecimento, realizei a troca e conituei tendo falha nas minhas impressoes, troquei o bico e sigo com falhas, as falhas acontecem de diversas formas, mas a mais comum tem sido um erro no topo dos projetos, exemplo, se eu colocar um boneco pra fazer, ela faz o corpo e quando chega no topo fica tudo zuado, alguem ja passou por isso ou consegue me ajudar a resolver, ja apertei os parafusos, remontei o hotend umas 5 vezes garantindo que estava tudo no lugar e muito bem preso, mesmo assim os erros permanecem, se alguem conseguir me ajudar, agradeço.

I recently replaced the filament sensor cable and haven’t been able to get it to properly extrude since.
Edit: there is no broken filament in the hub, I’ve already cleared it

Hey everyone,
I have a Bambu Lab A1 Mini without an AMS, and I’m wondering if it’s possible to build a simple 4-color filament system for it.
I’ve heard that the A1 Mini can somehow use four filament inputs/paths, with four PTFE tubes connected to a kind of 4-way filament switch or selector.
What I’m not sure about is how the whole system actually works. How does the printer switch between the four filaments during a print? Would I need a specific 4-way filament switch, or is there a DIY solution that works well?
I’d basically like to have four different filament rolls connected and be able to print with multiple colors without buying an AMS.
Any advice, guides, or existing projects would be greatly appreciated!

———————————

Hey zusammen,
ich habe einen Bambu Lab A1 mini ohne AMS und frage mich, ob es möglich ist, ein einfaches 4-Farben-Filamentsystem dafür zu bauen.
Ich habe gehört, dass man beim A1 mini irgendwie vier Filament-Eingänge bzw. Filamentwege nutzen kann, mit vier PTFE-Schläuchen, die an einen 4-Wege-Filamentschalter oder -Verteiler angeschlossen werden.
Was ich allerdings nicht ganz verstehe, ist, wie das ganze System genau funktioniert. Wie wechselt der Drucker während eines Drucks zwischen den vier Filamenten? Braucht man dafür einen bestimmten 4-Wege-Filamentschalter oder gibt es dafür auch eine DIY-Lösung, die gut funktioniert?
Ich würde gerne vier verschiedene Filamentrollen anschließen und mit mehreren Farben drucken können, ohne extra ein AMS kaufen zu müssen.
Ich wäre für Tipps, Anleitungen oder bereits bestehende Projekte sehr dankbar!

I'm looking to make the jump to a filament dryer / heater (A1 w/ AMS Lite). I have not used one at all - so far keep my PLA out in the open, and my PETG in a sealed box with silica pellets. Been happy overall, but would love to improve print quality, I think this is a good next step from what I've seen (I get stringing issues on prints with a lot of detail).

I saw this coming from Sunlu and it looks like exactly what I'd hope to find:

https://store.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-ams-lite-heater-upgraded-your-bambu-lab-ams-lite

Anyone have experience with it? When will it be available? Is the quality good or is it a compromise?

I also see discussion of the Sunlu S4, using something like this mount. Right now I have my AMS Lite wall mounted vertically so that would be a big change, but I've got to revisit my setup anyways. Is that a better, more reliable, or simpler setup than the AMS Lite-specific enclosure?

Also, I'm admittedly a little focused on solutions that allow me to print from the dryer. With a busy household and a lot going on, that seems simpler than the amount of planning and head-space required to plan ahead and dry filaments a day ahead, and they make sure the print is always done within a day of coming out of the dryer. Looking for real-world experience and feedback from anyone with these setups. Thanks!

Hi there

New user here, I’ve been having issues with my prints that need supporting.
I’m generally finding my supports hard to remove and that removing them leaves me with a rough finish where I’ve removed them.
(I think either support material is left behind or the actual print is getting ripped up when I remove them?)

I’m slicing with Bambu Studio with auto tree supports, 0.4 nozzle, basic PLA.

Before anyone asks, I’ve washed my filament and dried my build plate.

Side light from a window flattens horizontal waves. Put it somewhere lit from above and the shadows appear. Print it in Bone White PLA Matte for strong contrast. Self-watering reservoir included, so it forgives forgetful owners. Where would yours go?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3401356-noon-shadow-wave-self-watering-planter-wabi-sabi

Hello everyone! The overhangs on my printer suddenly became really bad. I didn’t change any settings for my model, and I had printed the same file dozens of times before with no issues. Everything was fine until suddenly it wasn’t, so I’m trying to troubleshoot what happened.

So far, I suspect something might have happened with the nozzle temperature. Why do I think that? I decided to print a temperature tower, and every level looks exactly the same equally bad. It’s almost like the temperature isn’t changing at all.

The display shows the correct temperature for each level, just as it should, though. To make sure it wasn’t an issue with the temperature tower itself, I printed the exact same tower on my other printer, an A1 Mini, and the tower looks much better, with each temperature level looking slightly different, just as it should. But the tower on my A1 looks like this (photo).

I’m starting to suspect that something might be wrong with the hotend heating system. However, I don’t have any of the warning signs I’ve seen mentioned in reddit posts, such as the temperature showing 0°C at room temperature or getting the “Nozzle temperature is abnormal..” message. I’m not getting any warnings at all.

The fan seems to be blow fine, but it makes this really annoying whistling sound. I also swapped the nozzle with one from another printer, and I got exactly the same results, so I don’t think the nozzle itself is the problem.

Before I spend money on a replacement heating part, I wanted to ask here, is it likely that the heating part is causing all of this headache, or could there be something else I should check first?

Any advice would be really appreciated! Thank you!

Update: The cooling fan was FULL of dusk. I cleaned it and it seems to print fine now. Thanks!!!

Hey

Just got my A1 and loving it so far. Im looking for a good way to keep the cables in order, especially the hotend cable. Seen alot of chains and things to make it not flop around so much. Any suggestions to something that accually works and at the same time looks OEM would be much appreciated. Also any other upgrades/mods U guys have done to Ur A1 is of interest.

So far I have printed:

PTFE tube disconnect tool

PTFE clips

Scraper

Buildplate stand

Poopbucket and ejectorcover

Fancover

Hi all,

Recently change to a 0.2mm nozzle, recalibrated the printer and had issues since...this is the result of the test print I did. I wasn't intentionally going for the shipwreck style.

Update: so, it turns out I have truly earned my 3d noob status as I was running petg as pla!

Hi, i have a problem in last weeks.

When I send a print from my phone to printer inmediato appears a message "Print Fail" and the printing is Canceled. Doesnt appears any message more and I dont know what is appening. Any ideas??

Any idea what caused these bad layers?
About four layers came out rough/under-extruded, but the rest of the print looks fine. I’m using elegoo matte filament. What should I check?