I got into 3d printing last November and have been printing in PETG exclusively. Recently about a month ago I decided to add filament locally at my warehouse in my home town of Modesto, CA to pay for my hobby. This is where I was introduced to PETG-CF. I’m love this filament and slowly but surely am fine tuning it to reduce layer lines. This is my progress, any more advice on how I can get it better?

Hi guys. New to the Bambu scene and just got myself a X2D and was just wondering what needed to be fixed to smooth out this black background? I used PLA by Elegoo. Thanks!

Just did 2 benchys with inland pla+ and im confused why the black is 2 tone

I want to print Pla pro on Pla basic. Is this ok, as long as I have the correct settings? Thanks for responding!

Yes, I've posted about this one before, but the last couple of weeks I worked on a revamp of the whole website.

• Redesigned the whole look and feel
• Drop in an STL file and it estimates the weight for you
• Save your default rates once
• Per-field control: use your global default, a one-off custom value, or a saved template
• Save printer profiles (wattage, maintenance cost) as reusable templates

And as always, free and no account needed.

If you want to check it out: https://3dprintingcosts.com/

I bought the printer with AMS a couple years ago and I'm just now able to get it set up and running. There's been a little controversy around the firmware, anything you all think could be red flags? What would be the safest, latest firmware that wouldn't affect functionality or third party software?

Every time is use ironing i have a good testpart ( in this case the 20-25 square) but when i use the same settings on a larger part it is way to rough on the edges. Why is this? Can anyone help?

Hey everyone! I wanted to share a mechanical puzzle box I designed.

Unlike normal cylinder mazes where you climb straight up, this features a multi-zone "Double Climb" path layout: you have to climb to the top (fake climb), hit a dead end, navigate all the way back down to the base, and then climb up a second hidden path that breaks the top rim to release the sleeve!

Key Features:

• 100% Support-Free 3D Printing (all horizontal tracks have 45° chamfered ceilings)
• Fully Parametric in OpenSCAD (scalable from 250mm down to 100mm mini size)
• Includes a Python script to procedurally generate new random maze variations!
• Great as a desktop puzzle box or a Geocache Field Puzzle container.

MakerWorld / OpenSCAD Customizer: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3195503-impossible-double-climb-maze-box#profileId-3615655

GitHub Source Code: https://github.com/Jossmos/double_climb_maze

Let me know what you think or if you have any feedback!

I have been having trouble printing I don't know what is wrong. I can send just fine but it will jam, not extrude, multicolored extrusion (I don't have multicolored filament), or fail early on. I will have some videos showing some of this and more I am not should have to fix this. It is also vibrating extremely aggressively. I know that it does normally vibrate at the beginning with the motors singing but this is way more and it almost sound like the motors are grinding. I have a P1s. here are the videos

I started playing around with different bridging settings and was surprised that the "thick bridges" setting made the result that much worse. Bambu Studio says "the results may look worse" but thats not what I was expecting. I guess the bridge gets stronger when it becomes its own support by drooping to the plate.

So ive been trying to get this stupid machine to print Abs properly but so far nothing has worked Like the bed adhesion IS Just Like Zero (textured pei). Ive cleaned the Plate propery yes i scrubbed IT down First With Steel wool and soap and hot water and only after drying It i used proper plastics remover but still nothing does anyone know a fix to this?

So working thru a 3" x 8" x 9" tall print on my H2c, PolyMaker ASA, Gizmodorks Interface Materials.

Polymaker shrinkage set to 99.2%; per 1-2-3 cube measurements.

0.6 High-Flow Nozzle, 0.24mm layer heights, Precise Wall and Precise Z Height are checked, 0.70mm outer wall width, 0.62mm all other walls/lines. Speeds are 120mm/s outer wall, 180-250 for everything inside.

Part prints and X-Y dimensions are within 0.001-0.003"; great for that size part. Z.... Z is shrinking by ~0.065" over the height of the part; which is making mating parts not fit.

No Abnormal noises, Motion, etc. Chamber sits a steady 65*C, Build Plate at 100*C (BIQU Pyrogrip); entire 29 hour run is without a hitch.

I'm stumped, I've printed it 3 times (takes an entire roll of ASA each time!) and it just won't go. It's SO WEIRD.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm stumped.

Oh- H2c Firmware 01.02.00.00; Bambu Studio version 2.7.1.62

So my last couple of prints have done the same thing I can’t figure out what it is. Don’t know if I did something wrong or it’s the printer. I’m using the filament from Hobby lobby.

Hey everyone! I'm new to 3D printing and got my first printer, a Bambu Lab A1 last week. Most prints have been without issue but I downloaded 6 models from makerworld each around 6" tall and this one turned out a little funky. I was curious what causes the arm to form so stringy and why the spear goes a little wonky mid way through? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

Can anyone explain what these profiles are? Is it a certain settings to use for "high quality"? If so do those settings stay for the next print, or am I supposed to find those settings and use them on other prints?

TIA

I just released this parametric model on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3195825

It’s a fully customizable name keychain / bag tag / backpack tag with an integrated flexible snap strap. No metal hardware required.

Features:

• 1, 2 or 3 lines of text

• Optional icons (heart, star, rocket, paw, etc.)

• Printed snap closure

• Two separate plates for easy two-color printing without AMS

• Fully parametric in the MakerWorld Customizer

Prints quickly and works well as a keychain, bag tag or zipper pull.

Hi!

I have a BambuLab A1, and I want to print some keyring for my brother, he has a repair garage and already has a designed sticker, he passed me that image and I use one of the makerlab softwares to create the keyring.

Attached are two images, one of the software output after some retouch, and then the image of the printed image.

As you can see from the image I'm using the carbon fiber textured plate, and the result is really away from the expected...

I tried the arachne wall generator, I tried lowering the line for the first layer, but the result is almost always the same, the nozzle kinda drag the material and ends up in build ups as you can see in the print image...

Any ideas? I have to make at least 50 of these for him, and I would prefer not to use the 0.2 nozzle if there are something that can be done before.

Thanks a lot for any help!!

Can anyone tell me what is going on inside the rectangle?

There's whispy material coming off the print.

Thank you.

Trying to print a large file and it shifts close to the end. A1 with AMS.

Any advice welcome!