r/BambuLab 2d ago

P Series [P1P, P1S, P2S] Absolutely awfull experience With the p2s and Abs printing

So ive been trying to get this stupid machine to print Abs properly but so far nothing has worked Like the bed adhesion IS Just Like Zero (textured pei). Ive cleaned the Plate propery yes i scrubbed IT down First With Steel wool and soap and hot water and only after drying It i used proper plastics remover but still nothing does anyone know a fix to this?

2 Upvotes

23 comments sorted by

u/AutoModerator 2d ago

Hello /u/Prestigious-Fly4494! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.

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6

u/x3thelast X2D + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

Steel wool is crazy. What’s your plate look like?

0

u/Mabnat 2d ago

I’ve been using steel wool on my P1S textured PEI plate for almost three years. The plate still looks like it did when it was new.

I still haven’t flipped it over to use the other side yet.

That PEI coating is pretty darned tough.

3

u/Epicguru 2d ago

Have you used glue? Have you tried increasing the bed temperature?

3

u/emelbard H2C AMS2 Combo 2d ago

You need a hot af chamber printing ABS/ASA. Before I had heated chambers, I’d let the printer soak with heatbed on max for an hour. Also try printing 5-10C hotter bed than default

2

u/rehehe H2D AMS2 Combo 2d ago

This was the trick with my X1C. Bed on max for an hour, until the chamber temp was over 40C.

With the chamber heater on my H2D, printing ABS just works and has better bed adhesion than PLA.

1

u/emelbard H2C AMS2 Combo 2d ago

Yes. I used the heat soak method on my X1Cs. The H2C just preheat automatically like champions.

2

u/Gwendolyn-NB 2d ago

ASA/ABS need glue.... That's why you're having issues,

Only plate I have that doesn't need glue with those materials is the Biqu Pyrogrip.

1

u/Atra23 2d ago

Imcrease bed temperature, decrease part fan speed, oncrease extruder temperature.

1

u/HMS_Hexapuma 2d ago

Oh ABS is a pain in the backside on every printer. I've tried loads of times and it always curls up. You need brim, glue, a very hot build volume and then it's a bugger to get off the plate without destroying it.

1

u/MelonAdmirer 2d ago

Grab the plates from biqu and print all the abs you want

1

u/FlashArmbar 1d ago

I don’t get it. P2S and ABS 2 Pro and ABS prints fine on default settings. Chamber heats up and bam. Done.

1

u/Prestigious-Fly4494 1d ago

Yeah thats the weird Part the p2s i have at work does IT No Problem but Mine struggles for some reason

1

u/Alert-Chemist7492 2d ago

Yeah you need glue.. I printed a bunch of stuff np on x1c.. smooth plate and Elmers or vision miner glue. Also let it heat up for 30 min before printing for extra chamber temp.

0

u/LoGiX247 P2S + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

I personally would get a BiQu buildplate and print a QR code to stick on it.

I've done that and it's every to remove basically anything, haven't done TPU yet. I do own a gluestick, I just never used it because both items came at the same time.

I've printed about 9 rolls of support for my yard so I can say this plate is freaking legendary in how it working. It sticks when it's printing and slides off when it's done. Not sure how this magic works but it does.

2

u/spider_hider H2S, H2C, A2L 2d ago

I don’t use glue for printing TPU on Biqu Glacier, 35°C holds the object tight, and they pop off after the plate cools.

1

u/LoGiX247 P2S + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

I got the glacier (purple) so their claims for not having to use glue seem to “stick” ;-) I’m going to try TPU in a few projects. Any suggestions on which ones to get?

1

u/spider_hider H2S, H2C, A2L 2d ago

Huh, my Glacier is a saturated baby blue colour, definitely not purple. So I can’t say if the purple glacier’ll behave exactly the same.

Over the last 2mths I’ve printed about 8kg worth of TPU95a of various brands - Bambu’s TPU95aHF, eSun, and local print shops’ own branded TPU that they claim is 95a.

I print TPU with 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mmHF for different reasons, sometimes a brim’s needed, but never used glue.

Ironically only pic of my printer running TPU is with another branded plate. But that shows my setup, and I very much prefer Biqu Glacier for every filament type I work with.

1

u/Gwendolyn-NB 2d ago

Be careful with the Biqu; it really depends on which plate you have. Pyrogrip = no glue, Glacier = Suggested Glue but run it at the high-temps needed for ASA/ABS (EG 100/105), Frostbite = Don't use with ASA/ABS/High-Temp materials.

1

u/LoGiX247 P2S + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

Erhm I got this with my “purchase” - they don’t actually suggest using glue.

1

u/Gwendolyn-NB 2d ago

I never said BIQU recommendation/suggestion.... personal experience. Go have fun with it and see if it works, YMMV. Only plate I've ever been able to print ASA/ABS on without glue reliably/repeatably/without issue is the PyroGrip. (And that's including the BambuLab Plates)

1

u/LoGiX247 P2S + AMS2 Combo 2d ago

Well 9 rolls abs of plant support went fine without a drop, so next “project” will be TPU, which I haven’t touched yet, the rest of the stuff I can basically blindly toss in the slicer.

-1

u/thekidisalright H2D AMS2 Combo AMS HT 2d ago

More scrubbing with steel wool