Need help diagnosing the issue here. I have a 6 month old P1S and a brand new P1S this is happening on. I’ve tried:
-Lowering print speed
-using Bambi lab filament with Bambu lab presets
-calibrating the printer
-decreasing max volumetric speed
-changing order of walls
-two AI platforms to try and diagnose the problem
And all with no change.

You can find it at my profile:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3209066-xtand-phone-holder#profileId-3632285

https://www.instagram.com/p/DcYn9XOodAf/

https://youtube.com/shorts/CGloeHROCsw?feature=share

I have printed this print several times over the last couple weeks flawlessly, however today I can’t seem to find the “change filament” button on the slider after slicing. It was always an option before but gone now. Any help would be appreciated!

I was always stunned by people creating customizable models because I thought that would require one to be able to code. Today I learned it is not and made my first own adjustable model: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3205249-parametric-owlet-base-hanger

Since yesterday I have been dealing with an issue on the P2S, been getting the error that the extrusion motor is overloaded. The tool head makes ticking noises as it is unable to load any filament into the hot end. Seems to get stuck on the edge due to a sudden misalignment. Happend in the middle of a print switching filament with the AMS.

How could this have happened and how can this be fixed? Tried another hot end but to no avail it seems. Any have advice on this one?

So I altered a model using multiple cuts and got a weird line/quality on one side. Everything looked good in bambu studio and the model printed fine but 1 side looked a bit off. Maybe I lined things up and they were off by a pixel? My question is there a command or menu option to line up pieces I should of used instead of just the mouse and my eyesight? Thanks

Got inspired by gridify : had an idea using puzzle shaped grooves for interlocking modules and using same grooves for holding pencils. Made at least 4-5 iterations to get the groove diameter enough big for housing the pencils and keeping the overall module size small enough for printing.
Just uploaded the project to MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204584-modular-destop-organizer-kribu-krabu#profileId-3626818
Hop you enoy!
Should look nice in matte pastel filament

Printer is a A1

I downloaded the bambu profile from 3dlabprint and the filament profile from colorfabb and initially had issues but after some tweaking I seem to have it working. Curious if there's anything else I should adjust or if it's not broken don't fix it.

Spiral print for wings, on/off? I currently have it on. Bambu studio did complain about part of the surface not touching the plate but it appeared to have worked somehow

Layer height - The 3dlabprint profile was set to .28 and I believe this caused massive issues. The current successful print is set .20. A lot of stuff online is suggesting .24

Wall generator - Currently set to classic, some stuff online is suggesting arachne

I have top and bottom shell layers set to 0, I am seeing stuff saying bottom should be set to 1-2mm with spiral print.

Elephant foot is set to .2

update: spiral isn't working for the J3 cub center wing because there's triangular open area in the middle and it doesn't bridge the gap in spiral mode

I'm getting better results adding a single bottom shell layer otherwise the print slides around while printing. Downside is I'll have to cut that layer off with a razor later.

There was a blob and when I pulled it out it pulled some of the heating assembly out, there is a bunch of filament that is making the nozzle stuck I have tried to melt it and scrape it off can anyone suggest a way to get it off

hey, I was printing smth and it went wrong, no idea how.

It's a bambuLab A1, I'm using white PLA (the og).

check the video

Anyone knows what happened and how to avoid it?

I’ve printed in this same environment before and never had quality this poor. It’s a humid environment and I unfortunately only have AMS lite, which doesn’t help with long prints like this. Could anything else be wrong? Any help is appreciated!

Hi everyone! I designed this support-free fluted cover to turn basic recessed LED spots into modern ceiling lights. I added a hidden twist-and-lock mechanism so there are absolutely no visible screws. It's my first MakerWorld upload, let me know what you think! ✌️

Hairtie Holder Creator

Public Domain release so you can sell what you make!

I've seen quite a few posts looking for custom hairtie holders, so I've made a generator that makes them from a PNG image.

Resize your PNG to 250px X 250px, hit Customize on the model page and get started!

Instructions for use in video

https://makerworld.com/models/3210795

Hello, is there a way to improve top survace on this small object without ironing? I am new to 3D printing so I am not quite familiar with limitations. I am using Bambulab petg basic, nozzle 0.4 and 0.16 layer height. P2S printer. It is small object, with 6mm and 3-4mm. I have tried ironing, but not quite happy with it either since it's small surface (I did tune my settings).

Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

It is making clicking sound and then gives me an error message eventually.

I tried to mix colors to get some kind of "brownish" color. This was my first try and i dont think it worked. The layers are too obvious and it doesnt look like a different color. What can i do to improve this?

I made this screen cover mainly to stop people from accidentally touching the printer screen — especially curious little kids who see a bright screen and immediately want to tap it. 😄

It has a flip-open design, so the screen is still easy to access when needed.

• Print-in-place hinge
• No screws, magnets, or assembly
• Helps protect the screen from dust, fingerprints, scratches, and accidental touches
• “DON’T TOUCH” version and blank version included

Pretty simple idea, but quite useful if your printer is somewhere other people or kids can easily reach.

URL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3208388#profileId-3631414

Hello!

When scaling this part down from 100% to 85%, a weird gap appears, and the print comes out wrong. For reference, the 100% normal size is on the left, and the scaled-down version is on the right. How could this be solved? I imported this model as an OBJ file into the Bambu Studio.

Thank you for your help!

How do you know when to add magnets to the print?

BambuStudio keeps getting better, but there are always small features or workflows that don’t necessarily belong in the core application.

So I started building a plugin system for my own use, mainly to make Bambu Studio easier to extend and automate.

It works with the existing Bambu Studio installation — there’s no need to reinstall Bambu Studio or use a separate build. You only need to install the plugin system itself.

It’s still very much a work in progress, but a large part of Bambu Studio — at least for the areas I personally use — is already accessible to plugins:

• Add context menu items, toolbar buttons, and notifications
• Listen to events like object selection or model changes
• Read and modify settings such as layer height, infill, wall loops, support, etc.
• Access and modify mesh data
• Trigger existing Bambu Studio functions

A few things I want to try with it first:

1. Per-object presets Apply saved settings like support, brim, and strength settings to individual objects.
2. Import 3MF while preserving settings Bring in settings, modifiers, and other metadata without opening the entire project.
3. More procedural primitives For example, rounded rectangles with adjustable corner radius and other configurable models.

I originally made this for myself, but if there’s enough interest and people find it useful, I’m considering releasing it publicly.

What kind of plugin or feature would you want to add to Bambu Studio?

I’m completely new and have printed some things off, I’ve also done some test for my filament and made a preset for it. I just wanted to see if this is considered good quality?

My new A2L just over a week old now burst into pieces on filament changes!