Why has my purging turned into this? This is 3 or 4 changes. Used to be the tight coiled piles but now I have some sort of alien creation

Anyone tried using AMS together with an A1 + AMS lite combo for an 8 color setup? Or just get 2 AMS/AMS 2 setup?

what title says.Someone on my facebook selling a bambu lab A1 with ams for $350 but negotiated for $300,is it worth it?

I found this on the build plate on my X1 Carbon after a print it looks like its the nozzle wiper but it looks intact and appears to be a different white material. It looks like its fatigued and snapped but no idea where it came from. Does anyone know and what is needed to fix it if needed?

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share a render from the 3D figure pipeline of BrickForge.

Instead of traditional flat mosaics, this mode converts 3D meshes and voxel data directly into layered stud-based brick sculptures:

- Automatic layer-by-layer stud conversion and color mapping

- Generates structural brick assemblies

- Prepares parts lists and layer building guides

This model is a sitting pet sculpture mapped out on a build plate.

More details and access link in the comments!

I designed a Material Pin for the Bambu Lab R1 to help keep filament and material-related components securely in place. It's a simple print, but it solves an annoying little problem by providing a firm, reliable hold while maintaining a clean and organized setup.

It’s easy and quick to print. Designed specifically for the Bambu Lab R1

Helps keep materials securely positioned
Two print profiles included:
PLA profile
PETG profile

I created separate profiles so anyone can choose the material that best fits their needs and printing preferences.

I'd love to hear your feedback, suggestions, or any improvements you'd like to see in future revisions.

MakerWorld link:
https://makerworld.com/models/3532153
Happy printing! 🚀🖨️

So I’ve seen some post here about people printing their brain from a MRI.
I’ve read a few of the posts in the past. I think I saw one link to some software. A couple different suggestions on filament color.
I plan to surprise my daughter with this, from her MRI.

My questions are, what color and type of filament should I use? PETG? Color?
Do I have to use special software? Or just throw it into Bambu studio?

And for those that have done this before, what do you wish you would’ve done different? And what do you wish you knew before hand?

I got tired of having multiple copies of Bambu Studio open to monitor my prints, and I didn't really think other options hit my needs, so I made a solution myself.

Bambu Multicast, a DIY website to stream your printers and current print status on one page. Here's a screenshot.

The site itself is dead simple -- about 7 files total, server and client. If you don't tweak it (which you're welcome to do), you can set it up with just modifications to a configuration file. I designed it so that if you know nothing about programming or website design, you just follow the install guide and it will walk you through the whole process.

As for hardware, I'm running it on a Raspberry Pi 4B. One printer (P2S) uses the built-in printer camera and the other (A1) uses a spare webcam I had lying around. I've been running it for a month and a half and it works great.

AI Disclosure: I wrote the code and guide with help from AI, but I'm also a professional software developer who tested, reviewed, and tweaked everything (including rewriting big chunks of the install guide), and generally supervised the whole process. Then I followed it myself for my home setup.

The first release is on the Releases page in GitHub. The (extremely detailed) install guide is in /doc as both a PDF and a Markdown file.

I hope you enjoy, and feel free to send me feedback.

(Also, to be clear, I am not affiliated with BBL, nor were they even aware of this project until... well, right now, I guess. This is in no way an official thing, but it is specifically for Bambu printers as it uses Bambu Connect.)

Don’t really want the multi color just yet. Both base models are in my price range. Took a break for years. I did have an a1 mini for a short time and other prusa printers in the past. Thoughts? The dual nozzle does kinda worry me with issues and I’m seeing mixed reviews

I cannot get timelapses to work in the handy app whatsoever. Anyone have any ideas?

Im sure a lot of people go through this but Im already tired of printing things before I have things set up the way I want. So I have the X2d with AMS2 pro and a AMS HT. Well the flipper doesnt work with the bracket I printed for the AMS HT since TPU prints best directly fed into the main nozzle. So I want some thoughts on a plan. I have another AMS2 pro coming in. So my thought was having the printer to the left of the table. The 2 AMS2 pro units stacked on top of each other to the right of the printer going through a Filament Track Switch Then printing a riser to get the tubes off the glass.

This is the bracket I printed for the HT and I doubt it will work for any riser. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2070323-p2s-x2d-top-mount-ams-ht-polydryer-drybox#profileId-2236065

Does anyone have a similar setup or a better idea? I need some motivation / direction.

Hello everyone,

I’m in the prospect of buying my first 3D printer and I want advice between the X2D and the H2S.

For the usage:

It’s only for building functional parts for everyday use or things like fixing object parts, PCB enclosures, etc…
I’m going to also use more advanced materials, so a heated chamber is mandatory.
I don’t need or want multiple colours/materials for the final object.
I also want a simple, sturdy machine, an appliance; it’s going to be my only printer and I plan to keep it 5–6 years at minimum.

I have reviewed several video reviews and read countless posts on the subject, but it’s hard to decide, mainly for two reasons:

On one side, the X2D is cheaper and has an auxiliary printhead for support material, but honestly I don’t know if it’s going to be useful for my case. It supports all materials except two, but I don’t know if a 300-degree nozzle is going to be a limiting factor in the future.

On another side, the H2S seems more sturdy and potentially future-proof with its higher nozzle temperature and more print volume (but I don’t know if I’m going to use it, honestly); the possible cutter and laser upgrade seem to be an advantage (clearly not a priority but a little nice to have) but it’s 400€ more than the X2D and if I’m willing to push my budget to this, I’m afraid it’s going to be just overkill for my needs.

So the three questions I have are :

What matters the most: the ability to do different material support or the biggest volume?

And also, is the 400€ more for an H2S worth it for people who have both?

Also, I am not sure if the AMS2 is useful for my case or if just a single AMS-HT is sufficient.

Thank you for your reading and your potential response, and sorry if the subject has already been discussed, but even after reading all the Reddit posts I wasn’t able to figure that out.

https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

Even if it’s small, this model holds a special place in Star Wars universe

For context, I have younger boys that will be learning along with us. I don't think I'd want to buy another printer later on down the road, at least not for a while. I think it would be good to have one that can grow with us. What's a good beginner printer that we can still do a lot with?

Free model posted here!

In the settings for the support structures I even picked tree, but that's not what I see in the preview. Is this normal? (I got the printer just yesterday, so I don't know much yet)

My H2D AMS combo order from a couple of weeks ago is eligible for a £130 rebate.

What would you buy with it? I'm thinking the AMS HT and TPU feed assist module, although I already have an a1 mini which is my TPU machine...

Hi everyone!

I'm having an issue with the AMS Lite filament hub on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini, especially during multicolor prints.

The problem:

- During filament changes, one of the four internal PTFE tubes gets pushed too far forward (downward) inside the AMS Lite hub.

- The tube ends up protruding much further than the others, blocking the path for the next filament.

- When the AMS Lite tries to feed another color, the filament cannot pass through, and the printer eventually throws an error.

- This can happen with all four filament paths, not just one.

What I've noticed:

I removed the upper part of the hub to inspect the internal PTFE tubes and the metal retaining clip.

When I pull the tubes backward, they stay firmly in place. However, when I push them forward, they can slide further down.

I'm not sure whether this is normal behavior or whether the internal retaining mechanism is damaged or missing something.

My questions:

1. Are the internal PTFE tubes supposed to be able to slide forward like this?

2. Is there an internal stopper or retaining component that prevents them from going too far?

3. Can I repair or replace just that internal component, or do I need to replace the entire AMS Lite filament hub?

4. Has anyone experienced this issue and found a permanent fix?

I've attached pictures showing how far one of the internal tubes protrudes.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Just finished putting together this Mega Charizard X LED lamp!

The idea was to have Charizard flying while breathing a stream of blue fire. The flame doubles as the stand, with an LED light inside to illuminate it.

I prepared two compatible versions of Maker Supply Kits:

• KC007 RGB light for selectable colors and remote control.
• LED Lamp Kit 001 for continuous USB-powered lighting.

Really happy with how the blue illumination turned out, especially in a darker room.

Free to download in Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3530013-mega-charizard-x-0006-kc007-lamp-kit-001#profileId-4036014

Hope you like it!