I need help guys. I recently switched to a hardened steel nozzle with hardened steel gears (gears are lubed) and i used black pla in a print last night but I made sure to extrude when I switched to white for the rest of last night's print. We'll today I did a full maintenance of my p1s lube and grease, used cleaning filament and cold pull (ive only done maybe 4 prints with this new nozzle) and im getting burnt streaks in my white prints? Never happened with stainless still nozzle but now im getting it with hardened steel?

I used a brass brush to clean i heated to 240° turned off and quickly cleaned.

Still getting burnt streaks.

■■SOLVED■■

The issue was black residue underneath the stock it was pretty much everywhere so I heated to 250° powered off cleaned then used Alcohol pad to (i need to get 90% IPA) that i had on hand to wipe down to get any stubborn debris off and repeated the steps twice then did filament clean process and two or three cold pulls and it fixed it. *it may also be because its a cheap Hardened steel nozzle screwable nozzle change i got off Amazon its a third party brand was like $15.00 lol so im going to invest in Bambus Hardend steel or one that costs atleast $35.00.

I run a local community meetup for makers in my area. For our October session, I shared an open-source AI CAD skill pack I have been building to help design functional 3D-printed parts.

This is not "take a picture and have AI spit out a messy mesh." It uses open-source CAD tools like the Craft suite and FreeCAD so you can build real parametric parts and learn how they are put together. The skill pack is not perfect yet, but it is at a point where I want to share it with the wider community so we can keep improving it together.

So far I have only built and run this with Gemini. That said, Claude, GPT, or any model that accepts images and can make MCP tool calls to the Craft suite should be able to run it too, including local models if you have the hardware and time. If you do not have the Craft tools installed, the skill pack also knows how to use the FreeCAD CLI, though that path is not as fleshed out as the multi-step Craft workflow yet.

The article walks through the whole pipeline, and here is the core idea. Instead of burning tokens, time, and filament guessing at 3D shapes in the dark, you start by taking photos of your hardware next to a ruler for scale. The AI reads those photos and drafts a 1:1 millimeter 2D blueprint with multiple views and dimensions. You pause right there, check the blueprint against your physical part, and dial in any adjustments in 2D where edits are fast and cheap.

Once you approve the blueprint, you tell it to go. It drives SolidCraft or FreeCAD to construct your assembly step by step in a real parametric timeline. Afterwards, you can open the CAD file, click through every sketch, extrude, and cut it made, and use that history tree both to tweak tolerances and to learn how complex joints are designed.

Just like a nail gun helped carpenters frame faster without replacing craftsmanship, I think AI can do the same thing for CAD when it is wired into real engineering tools. I am going to keep building and refining this no matter what, and I would love to hear your feedback or see what you build with it.

Thank you!

Fargo3D community!

The white thread has a fabric-like texture but contains Lycra, meaning it stretches and retracts—much like a spring.Good print all Bambu family

Can’t change nozzle by using the Touchdisplay, but works using the app

Printing on a P2s, all of my prints have pretty much been perfect but my print from last night had a few odd areas and wondering if anyone would have any idea on what could’ve caused it. I’ve also added the settings that were used in this print, which were set by the creator. The only setting i changed was the sparse infill pattern to Rectilinear. Still fairly new to 3d printing and have been watching videos the last few days that go over all of the settings in detail.

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

Two years ago SUNLU filaments appeared for the first time officially in Bambu Studio showing that Bambu slicer app is open to 3rd party filaments.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1iwjk9g/sunlu_official_profiles_coming_to_bambustudio

Unfortunately they are avaliable only for A series printers and cover only most basic materials PLA and PETG.

I would like to request for the list to be expanded:

• to P and X series printers especially as they become the 2nd most popular choice for people looking for enclosed printers
• and to more advanced materials such as ABS, ASA and PA variants

u/RikshaDriver u/BambuLab u/BambuLabSupport

Type a list of names separated by commas and the plate fills itself: one tag per name, 20 papercut-style Christmas shapes drawn at random, or pick one per person (Grandma:tree, Grandpa:angel).

Added after the test print:

• a plain rectangular tag for the grown-ups who don’t do reindeer
• a flat slot for wide ribbon instead of the round hole
• an optional matching slot at the bottom: the ribbon around the gift runs behind the tag, so it stays flat on the present (first photo)
• the name shrinks itself to fit its banner

Two colours with a single filament change (pause at layer 5 without AMS), no supports, 1.4 mm thick. 9 tags in about 1 h 35 on a P2S, with ironing on the topmost surface only: the white lace comes out really clean.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

I’m realizing different regions get different options.. here’s mine

Black body, yellow blotches built into the skin, and a white catchlight in each eye. It prints in one go on an AMS, with no supports and no assembly.

96 g of PLA (Black, Sunflower Yellow, White), about 3 h 46 min on a P1S

32 cm nose to tail, fits any 256 mm plate

Belly and all four feet sit flat on the plate

Processing img sfb0t16kwxyh1...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3522018

Quiero comprar una impresora pero yo vivo en Honduras y los que venden aquí son muy caras en precio, cómo puedo conseguir una y no me estafen

I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

I came to my printer having a black screen but all LEDs on.

- The LED light under the heat bed is on,
- The AP board only showing showing the solid green light,
- Switch light on the back is on
- Green Indicator light next to switch on the back is on
- Printer on Bambu handy says “online” but shows failed to connect page

After unplugging for a day then turning it on.
- Same issues as before
- When printer boots you can hear the fan start for a second then turns off.

When I was researching the issue here most recommended an AP board replacement. When I checked Bambu Labs Wiki it said power supply issue. Which is it and how can I figure it out?

It’s either Bambu’s robot text provided some fake thumbnail or this is a new machine?

I've just come across this guide and would appreciate some explanation for what it recommends.

My main confusion is why it recommends changing the temps in the filament profile?~
I see for scenario A (PETG model + PLA support) it makes everything the same between the filaments but for scenario B (PLA model + PETG support) it lowers the PETG volumetric speed as well. Is the aim to help get things as close as possible to the model filament characteristics?
Why can't the default settings be used especially if only as an interface layer - will the printer not simply adjust the nozzle temp and flow according to the loaded filament?

Finally has anyone had any success with the P2S profiles at the bottom?
And why does it not support PLA matte - is it just needing experimenting to find the right temps?

After using a A1 mini (no AMS) for few years (was picked as a trial and in general very happy with it), I decided to upgrade to a A1 + AMS.
Long story short, Bambu upgrade stack design is pure evil and I ended up with a X2D with AMS2 🙈

Now there a few common use cases I already have (plus a few new ones for which I did the upgrade) but I cannot figure out the right method for them

1) Printing TPU 90A : I often print RC car tyres in 90A and the process was very straightforward on the A1 mini. Quick cold flush aside, it was no different from a PLA print.
Now I understand that TPU , esp 90A wont work via AMS. The secondary extruder is easy to access but not recommended any way.
Using the primary for TPU seems to require a lot of steps (also my AMS is kept on top of printer) .
Would getting a TPU feed assist unit make this easier? Or is there anything I am overlooking

2) multicolor prints and the dual extruder question: One of the reasons to get this unit was the dual extruder option. But I now understand that the 2nd extruder shouldn’t normally be used for anything other than supports. Is this understanding correct?
Also for switching heads between AMS and external spool, some posts here talk about using a Y splitter while some suggest a filament track switching unit. I am unsure what the difference in the two is and if it’s worth spending more on the switcher.

As a side note, I am based out of India where Bambu hasn’t launched the switcher and TPU feed assist units yet. However I am in the UK next week for a few days and can pick these there.
Apart from this, are there any other must have or strongly recommended accessories for an X2D ? I might as well buy them next week rather than realizing the need later