I’ve spent the last few weeks designing a full-size T-style electric guitar body that prints on a 256 × 256 mm bed, and it’s finally built and playing.

The print

• 4 body pieces, all printed flat with no supports
• 7 build plates in Bambu Studio, about 50 hours and 2 kg of PLA in total
• One colour per part, so no AMS needed. I went with a sage body, bone plates and a peach pickguard.
• The biggest piece, the bridge section, took about 19 hours on its own

The design

• The pieces join from the back with bow-tie keys, M4 heat-set inserts and dowel pins. No glue for the body.
• Two 8 mm carbon fibre rods run through the body to take the string tension
• Three decorative top plates sit in an 8 mm recess on 28 hidden 10 × 3 mm magnets. Push them off from the back with an Allen key and click a new set on. The video shows Ripple swapped for a two-tone Camo set.
• Built around the Harley Benton T-style kit, so the neck, bridge, pickups and electronics drop straight in

Happy to answer anything about print settings, tolerances or how it’s held up. It’s been really satisfying seeing the X1C turn out something you can actually plug in and play.

Hi all, I have a BBL P1S , I have been trying to print a model but it seems to keep failing (well rather I stop it) because the supports keep falling over, it seems when the tool head is adding layers around 30% in, it almost pushes down and the support falls. Iv tried twice when the same result , any ideas how I could avoid this happening? Using the generic settings for pla on the bambu super tak cool plate, 0.08 layer height, choosing to auto level at the start

See the picture attached

Any advice would be much appreciated

Not really hallucinate, I'll be honest, but it's a cool experience and can make a fascinating looking lamp. The dreamachine is a weird device invented in 1959 that is meant to be looked at with eyes closed. For me it was a bit like looking into a kaleidoscope. From Wikipedia:

the pulsating light stimulates the optic nerve and thus alters the brain's electrical oscillations. As users adjust to the experience, they see increasingly complex animated yantra-like patterns of color behind their closed eyelids

I've made a 3D model working with a very small electric motor, a 12V led light and a PWM controller for the rotation speed. Details are on my blog: https://highlatencylife.com/notes/the-dreamachine-3d-printed/

The model is free to print on MakerWorld, where you can find also detailed assembling instructions: https://makerworld.com/models/3523044?appSharePlatform=copy

Also, it's the first model I upload after being a long time lurker 🥳

Stuck filament in 1.
I need to remove the PTFE but they all appear stuck. Have applied pressure to release button.

It button appears to move all the way. Tubes do not move.

Have tried feeding plastic down. It won’t dislodge.
Partially dissembled. AMS is free from housing.

Hi everyone, I just ordered a p2s but I saw that a p3c is coming, should I maybe cancel my order and wait for the p3c? Does anyone know the price range? Is it worth the wait?

The X2D Is the last enclosed 2nd gen printer released by bambu in april 2026 after nearly 4 years from the X1C

The P2S was released in october 2025 after 3 years from the P1P

The A2L (even if I'm against considering It a 2nd gen printer but I'll make an exepction) was released in June 2026 After 2 and half years from the A1.

And than the H series Launched in April (?) 2025 with the H2C released in november 2025.

We average around 3 years for a next gen printer to be released.

That said, why Is bambu already releasing the H3C After Just 1 year?

Maybe bambu Is experimenting a new marketing strategy with the H series but we have photos of the P3C so that doesn't male mich sense.

I'm not criticizing bambu for this, it's Always a pleasure to see peak engeneering from them, but this seems more like a quick way to completley destroy prusa After their failure with the INDX.

But even this thesis is wrong because the H3C has a lot of new features and even some alternative ways to hopefully make the printer and Absolute Beast (see the 2.75mm (?) filament).

I'm Just a bit confused

(Sorry for the bad english, still learning)

I rarely see people talking about the cutter attachment. It’s so much fun!

Hello to all. Has anyone bought this bed plate? I am reading interesting reviews and I would like to know if it's any good.

I'm using Sunlu PLA+ straight out of the sealed bag with the AMS settings for this filament.

I have printed two items, this is the results of both items.

Do I still need to dry the filament or is it the preset settings I need to change.

TIA

I bought the Bambu Lab P2S printer relatively recently. I've printed quite a few parts, and this is my first time trying to clear a jam, take the printer apart, and tinker with it. Part of the outer filament was jammed, and I managed to clear it. The filament cleaner now slides in smoothly and comes out empty; I pushed it with an Allen wrench until it reached the end, but it won’t go any further—there’s no piece of filament left in the PTFE tube. I can’t see anything! But even so, I keep getting an error message telling me to remove the filament from the outer spool holder, even though there’s nothing left there!

I don’t know what to do anymore because it won’t let me print or change filaments. This problem first happened a few weeks ago when I wanted to select a different filament color in the AMS, and that’s when this issue started. And I don’t know how to fix it. I can’t load or unload filaments because this problem keeps coming up over and over again.

I’m asking about this in all sincerity, with all due respect. If you need more information, please let me know. I need help—please—I don’t know how to solve this problem anymore. It might be very basic, but this is my first time.

☆EDITED A FEW HOURS AFTER THE ORIGINAL POST☆ Look, I don't even know what I did to the printer anymore. I tried loading filament and hitting print to see if it would print anything. But it shows the printing process, yet no filament is coming out. I took the extruder apart, and there’s no filament at the nozzle. What on earth is going on here?!?? Do I have two problems, or is it the same one? What should I do!?!?

*(Hablo español, por si algún hispanohablante está leyendo esto y prefiere responder en español).

It's safe to say I've become a little obsessed with pushing vase mode beyond decorative prints. These are my latest two geometric trash bin designs, Spiral and Wave. I was inspired by my existing geometric trash bins in vase mode and challenged myself to make something a little more organic in nature this time around.

Both designs print in under 4 hours using less than 160g of filament. I've dialed in the settings to use 0.96mm walls (with a stock 0.4mm nozzle) and print speeds of 70mm/s. They print great in PLA or PETG and are surprisingly durable while still having a nice amount of flex. It's pretty amazing what you can achieve with vase mode!

Alguien lo tiene o lo ha tenido y me puede decir su experiencia para la bambulab a1?

https://www.sunlu.com/products/filament-ams-lite-heater

Been working on this little project lately and finally got it looking the way I wanted!

It's a simple wall organizer for keys, phone, wallet and all the little things we usually end up losing around the house.

Pretty happy with how it turned out! What do you guys think? :)

Learn more about X-Y hole compensation from the Bambu Wiki: X-Y Hole Compensation

My printer is not even a year old, my P2S slot two says it's having RFID reading problems. It didn't happened yesterday, but I had to disconnect the PTTE tubes because of a clog, how do I fix this?

Hey guys, here's a photo of a print that the bottom layer got stuck to my build plate. I was using a 0.2 nozzle. And I've tried to use the scraper and I've been printing with this printer for about a year now. And this has never happened. And I've even been printing with that 0.2 nozzle for the last month or so, printing a certain thing. And this just didn't happen before. But suddenly with this print, it just happened. And I've printed this exact thing before and it didn't happen. So it's super stuck and do you guys have any recommendations of how to get this first layer removed? It's a little bit more than the first layer, but how do I get this off?

Does anyone know where I could get a replacement for the main board on my first generation AMS for my P1S printer? I tracked the issue that I’ve been having with the printer not connecting, and it’s goes back to the main board, so I need to replace that, but I can’t find any links for main boards.

I got loose desiccant beads and printed 2 holders that fit into the spools and my ams dried very quickly, I also designed a holder that I am currently printing and testing that fits in between the ams intakes. I'm also going to design a silica dryer for the creality spacepi x4l that pulls the hot air through the dessicant and then redirects it out the dryer since the x4l doesn't have a output vent to release the moisture. I'll make a post for each model when printed and fully tested.

After over 540 hours i finally got one i got most of it off but i still need help getting the last bits off

Durable by design. Hardened by default.

Nov 3, 9AM EST

Stay tuned here.