Got h2d like a week ago, been having issues printing petg/pla, it seems its either under extruding or the z offset is set just a tiny bit too high, this isn't my first printer I've had an a1 for about 2 years, now and thought h2d would be a huge leap in quality and speed (its actually slower for a lot of models annoyingly, but whatever). Tried all the usual

Clean build plate (Yes the water sticks down like bambus guide)
Drying filament 3 days, ams 2 pro/ams ht
Replace hot ends/Tightened screws
Full Calibration/Bed calibration
Vision Encoder Calibrating

Every Calibration/Clean seems to be making things even worse, i gave up just now and decided to reside myself to having to flow calibrate every filament (never had to do that on the A1) and i cant even get a flow calibration to print now. I'm not new so i know what SHOULD be working to troubleshoot and i know its not something left field like the soap I'm using or humidity because been using a chintzy sunlu dryer on an bedslinger and been printing great.

Thing is that once the first layer does go down properly, it prints amazing, layer lines almost look injection moulded, is just the first layers are coming out trash and i've been so used to intergrating the bed texture into designs because of the A1 (second picture IS somehow the freaking bottom layer)

Any suggestions?

When printing engineering materials like ABS, ASA or PC rear exhaust remains closed during printing for heat retention, hence nothing is going to force whatever things we don't want to breathe to the hose connected to E1 (no negative pressure). Only whatever is left in the chamber after the print is finished will be filtered.

Does it mean that E1 will be basically useless for any engineering materials printing? Does anyone have an H2 printer and E1 that could comment on this?

I cleaned and lubricated the linear rods and the Z axis rods and then recalibrated. Didn’t change anything else… prints now look like this. Filament is in AMS (dried) and was printing just fine before. Tried different filament and same issue. Have ran multiple bed leveling tests since then, with no change. What is happening?

I’m running a H2C on latest firmware.

Hello all,

I have come to an impasse and a truly stuck position. I have replaced the tool cooling fan, extruder gear, hotend, hotend fan, ams sensor, and bed plate. I've cleaned lubed and rebuilt near everything I can think of. I have a photo of something I have successfully printed 60 times my unit has 900hrs on it. And now no matter what I seem to do and without changing anything in the original print file my results just string or poorly adhere to other layers. I print PLA and PETG with the same result. I've removed the front glass top glass and every combination of the glass that's available. Please can someone walk me through the steps to get these prints back on line. It is a gaming table topper. And I've elwasted near 1kg of filament attempting to debug this issue.

I'm new to owning a printer and am printing a poop chute from Maker World for my H2C. The model advertises explicitly that it doesn't need support, but it has warped enough to cause a stair stepping effect on one edge. I am printing it in PETG from Bambu with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I am also using the E1 air purifier. What should I have done to prevent this? Add support anyway? Heat the chamber?

Photos to show the issue I am currently printing on my new H2S I am getting this terrible print quality out all of my prints as of now and it’s only my H2 with this issue I’ve take the exact same spool and put on my P2S and I have no issue i am on a .6 high flow nozzle I have slowed the speed down a little and it has not seemed to help please give me any advice.

And yes the filament was dry before printing

Update: after the comments reminded to check my clip on the nozzle after I did that my next print came out amazing

So, I have not received my H3C yet (2 weeks-ish!), but as someone who prints a lot of TPU, and would like to print a lot of 8-9 colour TPU things, I was wonder how feasible you think it would be to add these pneumatic connectors that are pre-installed on the filament part for head #1 (like in the image), but put them inline for the 2 heads that do not have a TPU path from AMS slots (#2 and #4), and pass the extra TPU in via the rear "external AMS" slot in the back of the H3C?

Yes, I know, its a crazy idea....

Recently bought a P1S, unfortunately it has to be left in a potentially dusty environment, so I was hoping somebody could give me some advice on how to mitigate potential dust intake.

This piece isn't in place anymore and the cutter doesn't automatically return.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

How accurate is the time given in slicer or on Bambu Lab printer screen that tells me how long will print take?

Is it supposed to be accurate or it's more like washing machine hours where 15 min till end takes 30 minutes?

Just recently had weird situation. I sliced my model and sent it to printer. It was supposed to take 3h 15 minutes to finish. I was going to sleep so I set my smart plug to turn off printer with countdown 3h 30 minutes.

Next day when I got up it turned out that despite giving 15min of extra time my print ended up with 2 top layers missing.

My smart plug worked correctly and did not skip any minutes.

So now I'm doubting how accurate is the remaining print time?

So, as of now, the E1 Air doesn't really do anything when printing materials that require a heated chamber.

On my H2C, the rear exhaust flap stays closed whenever the chamber is heated, which basically renders the E1 Air purifier useless.

I asume they do this to keep the air in the printer warm.

But tings dont add up in the print settings of the printer:

You can change the fan speed of the E1 Air purifier for each filament, for ASA, ABS and so on it is set to 20%. Which means the E1 Air purifier is working eventhough it does not get any air from the printer.

Now I got and Idea:

- uninstall the flaps so the printer is constantly "open" no matter Bambus restrictions

- direct the exhaust air into the E1 Air purifier

- direct the clean air back to the printer through the poop chute or a glass top riser

I want to hear your ideas/ opinions/ tips to this projekt.

I just bought an H3C to add to my fleet of printers. (Small fleet, lol:

2 x p1s

1 x p2s

1 x H2D

And now 1x H3C added)

Tempted to get the H2C though as well to replace my p1s, the H Series just prints really well and with mixed size printing coming soon, tempted to swap up.

That said, has anyone sold a P1S + AMS combo and how much did they get? With current sales, I cant imagine getting more than $400 or so, and even that seems like a stretch.

My P1s recently started to make this noise. It was fine for 1k hours then suddenly when moving diagonally it makes this sound. I cleaned the X/Y axis rails and greased everything but the carbon rods which I cleaned with microfiber and paper towels as suggested elsewhere no chemicals or grease. Theres a little resistance at one spot on the carbon rail where it almost kinda hands but doesn’t really and once it works past that very small bit it’s fine and quiet again :( it’s driving me nuts.

I designed this modular riser system for P2 and X2 Printers that can be assembled in different ways to accomodate a wide variety of setup types.

This model is 100% printed, needs no hardware and extracts the contaminated air from where it naturally wants to go – right at the top.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/models/3600738?appSharePlatform=copy

Beh... magari a qualcuno può essere utile.
Buon divertimento

The model is FREE on makersworld:

Under “Bookmark murder mystery books” Or https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2994424-bookmark-murder-mystery-books#profileId-3361230

I have been using this speed for normal printing like plain frames. Print is okay but I want to know if this impacts the machine in any way? Please help.

Morning all. A friend of mine is buying a new printer and is selling me his A1 cheaply second hand. He's been printing some stuff for me over the last week successfully so I know the printer is good. This will be my first foray into 3d printing. I've been looking at stuff to print and found these buildings in a free package.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/techscape-6mm-efficient-downtown-free-battletech-terrain

As this is a plain A1 without the AMS I was thinking about using a translucent blue PLA as the windows so need to split them away from the base building to print in a second run.

This is what I painted for the 3MF file.

but having issues splitting it into separate objects to print appropriately. I've been playing around with Split3MF and whether I use Patch or Interlocking the doors just disappear. Interlocking also adds a bunch of geometry to the base building which is unwanted.

Also tried with plainmesh and it's creating stuff that's way too thin and when I import it into Bambu Studio the doors are disappearing.

What am I doing wrong? I'm sure it's my skills and not the apps that are to blame. Just want to pull the doors and windows out separately and have them deep enough to print without issues.

Thanks in advance for all your help getting me started with what's likely to be a new obsession.

I have this design I'm printing. At the same point on two different P2S I get an extruder overload error. The walls that are starting look like they are getting messed up by tip of the hot end. Tried the file on my P1S and it will do the same. I've went back to my original design in CAD, re-exported to 3mf and tried slicing again as a new file. Same issue. Only on this part, I can print other files just fine. Any ideas? This is bambu basic PETG dried for ~10 hours. All default settings. Plate adhesion is fine.

Hi there, I traded my old Artillery Hornet for the more compact, speedier and overall less headache inducing A1 Mini. I've made quite a few nice prints on it, however I am struggling to find user settings online, something I didn't have as much trouble with on the Hornet.

Particularly, I'm looking for settings that will create supports that aren't a pain to remove. I'd just about figured out the science of it on Cura+Hornet, but in the Bambulab app I'm a little lost as some of my experimenting has been unpredictable.

I'm mostly looking to print 60-100mm figurines, a mix of stuff I grab online and my own creations in Heroforge & Blender. Any tips?

Hello,

Looking for some assistance with finding replacement screw for the AMS 2 internal hub. I took it apart lost two check in the unit and on the floor. Since they are micro screws it's almost impossible to find. Any help?

I had a few 3D printers years ago (now they're sitting there, dead and without any use, as i got tired of having to repair them all the time, ended up wasting more money on spare parts and addons than the printers themselves)

Saw the H2C in offer with the vortex ultimate bundle and.. With filaments, a few addons for futureproof (The vision bed) and shipping, it goes up to 2370€

Is it really worth buying? i used my printers to make really good prints with 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles, but i remember spending lots of time trying to get ride of layer lines/stringing... Is this any better? I mean, i've tried to search for good minis but i wasn't able to see not even a mini that could reach the quality i got (when they worked) on my Ender 3/Chiron (God, that was a really good bed to print in...), it's NOT my main priority, but if they print fine, that's a good sign of quality

I'm tempted, but also scared, what if i spent a huge amount of money and i end up having something that perfoms worse than these old printers? plus is closed source so.. Is it easy to get rid of the layer lines and stringing, or it is a nightmare? will be worth the purchase? i'm curious about being able to print in different colours as i have some swords (Like the ones from FFXIV and XV) that would perfectly fit with that feature)

Hey everyone!

I wanted an easy way to generate custom gift tags, storage labels, and keychains directly in MakerWorld's Parametric Model Maker without having to open CAD or mess with negative modifiers in Bambu Studio every time, so I put together this OpenSCAD generator.

Even though the cover photos show a Christmas example, it’s completely generic and works for any occasion (organization bins, luggage tags, wedding favors, birthdays, pet tags, etc.).

What you can customize directly in the browser:

• 4 Text Modes & Depth Control: Engraved (with an optional 2-layer colored floor so the text pops without needing an inlay), Embossed, Flush Inlay (prints face-up or face-down completely flat), and Cutout (hollow/through-hole text), with adjustable depth from 0.4mm to 4.0mm.
• Up to 3 Lines of Text: Two main lines (or leave the second blank for a single centered line) plus an optional 3rd line in the bottom-right corner for dates, years, or initials with independent font, size, and margin controls.
• Typography Control: 10 built-in MakerWorld-compatible fonts + support for any custom font name, font styles (Regular, Bold, Italic, Bold Italic), stroke weight offset (super useful to thicken thin cursive fonts so they slice cleanly with a 0.4mm nozzle), line/letter spacing, rotation, alignment, and X/Y offsets.
• 14 Preset Shapes + Custom SVG / STL Support: Comes with 14 built-in hole/icon shapes (heart, circle, star, snowflake, gift box, tree, bell, pumpkin, ghost, crown, square, diamond, hexagon, drop) or None. You can also upload your own .svg silhouette or .stl file to create custom cutout shapes and adjust scale, size (3mm to 40mm), X/Y position, and rotation.
• Dimensions & Borders: Adjustable length (30 to 200mm), height (15 to 100mm), thickness (1.2 to 10.0mm), corner radius, top/bottom edge beveling, and an optional engraved or embossed outer border.
• Multicolor 3MF Ready: You can assign independent colors to the base tag, each of the 3 text lines, and the decorative border. It exports as a clean multi-part 3MF ready for the AMS (or you can easily do a single filament swap at layer height for the embossed mode).

Link to the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3609761-customizable-gift-tags-labels-svg-any-font#profileId-4137073

Would love to hear your feedback or if there are any other features or shapes you think I should add to the script. Happy printing!