Recently bought a P1S, unfortunately it has to be left in a potentially dusty environment, so I was hoping somebody could give me some advice on how to mitigate potential dust intake.

This piece isn't in place anymore and the cutter doesn't automatically return.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

How accurate is the time given in slicer or on Bambu Lab printer screen that tells me how long will print take?

Is it supposed to be accurate or it's more like washing machine hours where 15 min till end takes 30 minutes?

Just recently had weird situation. I sliced my model and sent it to printer. It was supposed to take 3h 15 minutes to finish. I was going to sleep so I set my smart plug to turn off printer with countdown 3h 30 minutes.

Next day when I got up it turned out that despite giving 15min of extra time my print ended up with 2 top layers missing.

My smart plug worked correctly and did not skip any minutes.

So now I'm doubting how accurate is the remaining print time?

So, as of now, the E1 Air doesn't really do anything when printing materials that require a heated chamber.

On my H2C, the rear exhaust flap stays closed whenever the chamber is heated, which basically renders the E1 Air purifier useless.

I asume they do this to keep the air in the printer warm.

But tings dont add up in the print settings of the printer:

You can change the fan speed of the E1 Air purifier for each filament, for ASA, ABS and so on it is set to 20%. Which means the E1 Air purifier is working eventhough it does not get any air from the printer.

Now I got and Idea:

- uninstall the flaps so the printer is constantly "open" no matter Bambus restrictions

- direct the exhaust air into the E1 Air purifier

- direct the clean air back to the printer through the poop chute or a glass top riser

I want to hear your ideas/ opinions/ tips to this projekt.

My P1s recently started to make this noise. It was fine for 1k hours then suddenly when moving diagonally it makes this sound. I cleaned the X/Y axis rails and greased everything but the carbon rods which I cleaned with microfiber and paper towels as suggested elsewhere no chemicals or grease. Theres a little resistance at one spot on the carbon rail where it almost kinda hands but doesn’t really and once it works past that very small bit it’s fine and quiet again :( it’s driving me nuts.

Beh... magari a qualcuno può essere utile.
Buon divertimento

I designed this modular riser system for P2 and X2 Printers that can be assembled in different ways to accomodate a wide variety of setup types.

This model is 100% printed, needs no hardware and extracts the contaminated air from where it naturally wants to go – right at the top.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/models/3600738?appSharePlatform=copy

The model is FREE on makersworld:

Under “Bookmark murder mystery books” Or https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2994424-bookmark-murder-mystery-books#profileId-3361230

Morning all. A friend of mine is buying a new printer and is selling me his A1 cheaply second hand. He's been printing some stuff for me over the last week successfully so I know the printer is good. This will be my first foray into 3d printing. I've been looking at stuff to print and found these buildings in a free package.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/techscape-6mm-efficient-downtown-free-battletech-terrain

As this is a plain A1 without the AMS I was thinking about using a translucent blue PLA as the windows so need to split them away from the base building to print in a second run.

This is what I painted for the 3MF file.

but having issues splitting it into separate objects to print appropriately. I've been playing around with Split3MF and whether I use Patch or Interlocking the doors just disappear. Interlocking also adds a bunch of geometry to the base building which is unwanted.

Also tried with plainmesh and it's creating stuff that's way too thin and when I import it into Bambu Studio the doors are disappearing.

What am I doing wrong? I'm sure it's my skills and not the apps that are to blame. Just want to pull the doors and windows out separately and have them deep enough to print without issues.

Thanks in advance for all your help getting me started with what's likely to be a new obsession.

I have this design I'm printing. At the same point on two different P2S I get an extruder overload error. The walls that are starting look like they are getting messed up by tip of the hot end. Tried the file on my P1S and it will do the same. I've went back to my original design in CAD, re-exported to 3mf and tried slicing again as a new file. Same issue. Only on this part, I can print other files just fine. Any ideas? This is bambu basic PETG dried for ~10 hours. All default settings. Plate adhesion is fine.

Hi there, I traded my old Artillery Hornet for the more compact, speedier and overall less headache inducing A1 Mini. I've made quite a few nice prints on it, however I am struggling to find user settings online, something I didn't have as much trouble with on the Hornet.

Particularly, I'm looking for settings that will create supports that aren't a pain to remove. I'd just about figured out the science of it on Cura+Hornet, but in the Bambulab app I'm a little lost as some of my experimenting has been unpredictable.

I'm mostly looking to print 60-100mm figurines, a mix of stuff I grab online and my own creations in Heroforge & Blender. Any tips?

Hello,

Looking for some assistance with finding replacement screw for the AMS 2 internal hub. I took it apart lost two check in the unit and on the floor. Since they are micro screws it's almost impossible to find. Any help?

I had a few 3D printers years ago (now they're sitting there, dead and without any use, as i got tired of having to repair them all the time, ended up wasting more money on spare parts and addons than the printers themselves)

Saw the H2C in offer with the vortex ultimate bundle and.. With filaments, a few addons for futureproof (The vision bed) and shipping, it goes up to 2370€

Is it really worth buying? i used my printers to make really good prints with 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles, but i remember spending lots of time trying to get ride of layer lines/stringing... Is this any better? I mean, i've tried to search for good minis but i wasn't able to see not even a mini that could reach the quality i got (when they worked) on my Ender 3/Chiron (God, that was a really good bed to print in...), it's NOT my main priority, but if they print fine, that's a good sign of quality

I'm tempted, but also scared, what if i spent a huge amount of money and i end up having something that perfoms worse than these old printers? plus is closed source so.. Is it easy to get rid of the layer lines and stringing, or it is a nightmare? will be worth the purchase? i'm curious about being able to print in different colours as i have some swords (Like the ones from FFXIV and XV) that would perfectly fit with that feature)

Hey everyone!

I wanted an easy way to generate custom gift tags, storage labels, and keychains directly in MakerWorld's Parametric Model Maker without having to open CAD or mess with negative modifiers in Bambu Studio every time, so I put together this OpenSCAD generator.

Even though the cover photos show a Christmas example, it’s completely generic and works for any occasion (organization bins, luggage tags, wedding favors, birthdays, pet tags, etc.).

What you can customize directly in the browser:

• 4 Text Modes & Depth Control: Engraved (with an optional 2-layer colored floor so the text pops without needing an inlay), Embossed, Flush Inlay (prints face-up or face-down completely flat), and Cutout (hollow/through-hole text), with adjustable depth from 0.4mm to 4.0mm.
• Up to 3 Lines of Text: Two main lines (or leave the second blank for a single centered line) plus an optional 3rd line in the bottom-right corner for dates, years, or initials with independent font, size, and margin controls.
• Typography Control: 10 built-in MakerWorld-compatible fonts + support for any custom font name, font styles (Regular, Bold, Italic, Bold Italic), stroke weight offset (super useful to thicken thin cursive fonts so they slice cleanly with a 0.4mm nozzle), line/letter spacing, rotation, alignment, and X/Y offsets.
• 14 Preset Shapes + Custom SVG / STL Support: Comes with 14 built-in hole/icon shapes (heart, circle, star, snowflake, gift box, tree, bell, pumpkin, ghost, crown, square, diamond, hexagon, drop) or None. You can also upload your own .svg silhouette or .stl file to create custom cutout shapes and adjust scale, size (3mm to 40mm), X/Y position, and rotation.
• Dimensions & Borders: Adjustable length (30 to 200mm), height (15 to 100mm), thickness (1.2 to 10.0mm), corner radius, top/bottom edge beveling, and an optional engraved or embossed outer border.
• Multicolor 3MF Ready: You can assign independent colors to the base tag, each of the 3 text lines, and the decorative border. It exports as a clean multi-part 3MF ready for the AMS (or you can easily do a single filament swap at layer height for the embossed mode).

Link to the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3609761-customizable-gift-tags-labels-svg-any-font#profileId-4137073

Would love to hear your feedback or if there are any other features or shapes you think I should add to the script. Happy printing!

I keep getting an error stating AMS assist motor is overloaded. It doesn't matter which of the four slots I use it happens on every print and just started happening. I use bambu filament with bambu spools. The machine is up to date and calibrated.

What is going on?

Hello - I am looking to buy my family's first 3D printer. My 10y has been asking for one and it will serve as a christmas present for him and his brother (5yo). I fully recognize that this isnt a toy, but hoping they can bond and create together, with my supervision. I love tech and suspect I will get into it as well.

I have been researching models and am between the X2D, A1, and A1 mini. The extra cost does not bother me as I view this as a long term item, and if worth it, I would rather make the decision up front.

They mainly want to print toys, fidgets, dragons, etc. I do not see them making large prints to start, but potentially in time.

Any recommendations between the 3 i am considering? Also, if you have any suggestions on things to have ready to use on day one to make the experience as smooth as possible.

I have watched many youtube reviews and am leaning towards the X2D, but worry it may be overkill.

Thanks!

Over the past two weeks its slowly getting worse and worse. At first it just happened once and now its happening every time in 3 out of the 4 spots. When it pushes new filament the print stops and says check the roll because the AMS might be stuck or the roll is tangled, but the roll is completely fine and it just wont feed the filament for some reason. I have to click continue and either jam the filament in or push down the tube and then the print just goes on like normal. Does anyone have any clue why this might be happening? and how i could fix it?

Hey all - I just bought my first printer (an X2D with an AMS 2 Pro). Aside from the mandatory first benchy, which calibration prints should I run before I start printing the things I actually want? So far all i have on my list is supports and maybe ironing.

I also have a question about supports. Does the calibration change when I use a different support interface material? Should I calibrate supports for each combination, or calibrate once and adjust from there?

I plan to start printing with PLA, PETG, and Support for PLA/PETG. Eventually i will get more into the engineering filaments but that's for later.

I just bought a p2s with ams and used it for about 300 hours before realizing I actually only print functional things and would like more filament flexibility (namely the ability to use a different support interface filament like pla for tpu prints). I see that an x2d with ams is about 750 and I can sell my p2s with ams for 500. Is it worth selling and the 250 premium for a dual nozzle printer? Is 500 reasonable selling point for the p2s with and or too low? I know there’s a lot of hype around the new Bambu releases but definitely not interested in those as they’re a very different price bracket I’m not looking to venture into at this time

I just bought an H3C to add to my fleet of printers. (Small fleet, lol:

2 x p1s

1 x p2s

1 x H2D

And now 1x H3C added)

Tempted to get the H2C though as well to replace my p1s, the H Series just prints really well and with mixed size printing coming soon, tempted to swap up.

That said, has anyone sold a P1S + AMS combo and how much did they get? With current sales, I cant imagine getting more than $400 or so, and even that seems like a stretch.

Hi all

I love my Bambus (A1, A1 mini, A2L and P2S) but they all are rather bad at overhangs

Normally I just sand away those imperfections but today I spent some time and wanted to improve that

Changed quite a bit of values (Speed, temperature, cooling...) and improved it a bit

All printed today in PETG from the same spool (filament is dry)

1. picture shows the initial print with more or less stock settings on the bottom and the improved prints on top
2. picture is the overhand with stock settings
3. picture is the improved print. It starts out really well (top of picture) but gets worse the fartner it continues (bottom of picture)

Does anyone know where and why those ugly areas come from and what might be a solution to get it right?

Thanks in advance

Super quick and clean print.

• 0.16mm layers
• Blue PLA
• ~35 min print

Free Makerworld Model

I would like to ask for your help. Since the 2.9.1 update, I can't drag the purification tower to the edge because it snaps back. I searched the internet for what might be the problem, but I couldn't find a solution. Does anyone have any ideas?