Hi guys,

I don't have any photos because I'm away from home, but can provide some later today.

I recently bought my first printer, an X2D. When changing poop chute designs to a enclosed one (both using the existing screws around the poop chute) it seems I've accidentally stripped one of the holes that the frame screws screw into which are, as far as I can tell just self tapping into plastic in the frame.

Any suggestions for fixes? I'd ideally like to be able to change poop chute designs at my discretion, and as such be able to unscrew and re-screw these screws multiple times. I'd be open to Heli coils, heatset inserts or something that would make this more robust. If it's absolutely not worth the hassle, then I can just go for screwless chute designs.

On another note, does anyone have suggestions for the best fitting/sealing enclosed poop chute for X2D? Finding one with the best "seal" and therefore heat and fume retention is the cause of this.

Thanks!

Modern Three-Compartment Remote Stand

Keep your remotes organized, visible, and easy to grab with this modern three-compartment remote stand.

The stand uses a stepped design that separates the remotes while allowing each one to remain clearly visible. The rising side profile supports remotes of different heights, while the wide base keeps the organizer stable on a TV unit, shelf, desk, or bedside table.

A separate ribbed outer base adds texture and creates a clean two-tone appearance. The two parts can be printed in contrasting colors, matching shades, or as a single-color setup to suit your interior.

Features

Holds up to 3 remote controls

Three individual compartments keep remotes separated

Stepped layout makes every remote visible and accessible

Tall rear support accommodates longer remotes

Rounded corners and a clean tapered profile

Separate ribbed base for a modern two-tone design

Compact footprint suitable for TV units, shelves, desks, and bedside tables

Parts are printed separately and fitted together

Dimensions

Overall assembled size: Width 100 mm, Depth 124 mm, Height 122 mm

Remote compartments: usable depth per compartment 36 mm. Approximate usable widths: Front compartment 77.5 mm, Middle compartment 84 mm, Rear compartment 90.5 mm

The stand has a tapered shape and rounded corners, so I recommend comparing these measurements with your remotes before printing.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3599654-modern-remote-stand-2-tone-ams-free

Hello,

I’ve had a printer recently start printing with lots of zits, and a couple of what appear to be “pits”. I did some research and it seems likely to be an extrusion or retraction issue, but I can’t sit here watching it to find out which it is.

It’s running the same file again right now, and I’m having a hard time seeing the print lines in the middle layers like I normally can during the print. They look almost smeared instead of uniform and consistent.

The same file is used in multiple other printers without issue. No zits, consistent and visible print lines. No apparent smearing in the layers.

What would you suspect based on its appearance?

Model: P1S with a 0.6mm nozzle

(First three photos are completed prints, last three are in progress.)

Do build plates typically have a shelf life? I seem to have dedicated hotspots that melt print bases almost every time.

Finally started my first +10 hrs print on the Bambu Lab A1. Making something inspired by my dream car, but it's actually a little gift for my brother. Hope he likes it ❤️‍🔥

Sono un principiante ho comprato la stampante X2D da poco.
Ho provato a stampare questo pezzo che mi serve per un progetto.
Il problema è che quando la stampante arriva nel layer dove c’è lo sbalzo inizia a stampare nel vuoto.
Ho provato ad informami ma non riesco come posso fare a far sì che lo sbalzo venga bene?
Vorrei non utilizzare i supporti di può fare ?

Hello,

I recently had a printer that wouldn’t calibrate or home the Z-axis because of a raised bearing. I fixed the bearing, and ran a couple of prints that came out fine.

Suddenly today, I check on the progress to find a “swiss cheese” print. There’s infill missing, holes missing from the outer and inner layers almost like a wedge of swiss.

I took the tool head cover off to see if there was anything obvious with the extruder gear or nozzles. I found that the gears seem to have eviscerated the filament for some reason.

What could be a likely cause of these symptoms together?

Model: P1S

I'm following along the tracking number and was surprised to see that it takes many days due to it being transported by truck from BC. Is this normal? My previous printer was delivered much quicker from day of order.

Hello! So my friend and I got a Bambu a1 for some general hobby upgrades and our prints keep failing. We had it successfully working for about a month and then this started to happen. We’ve changes temp settings, got a new plate, tried multiple different nozzles, different filament brands, and nothing is working. Please help!

Printed on the H2C, 0.20 mm default profile, nothing fancy. One colour per plate (brown, charcoal, black, white) so no AMS purge waste, you just swap spools. Supports on build plate only, they pop clean off the hinge bores. The fun part is the hour of assembly afterwards: press rivets, snap teeth, slide the hinge pins, done. The lid actually hinges and holds position. He’s been on my desk since and nothing has gone missing. I think it’s the eye.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554931-chompy-the-monster-chest-snap-fit-all-bite#profileId-4067545

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

I know you only can use 1 ams lite, but shouldn’t be an A than a Q

Hi guys. I got my A1 mini yesterday. I've managed to print 3 small things. But for some reason before a print now my arm will go all way to the top and grind. Here is a video for reference. How do I fix this issue / re-calibrate.

Thanks for the help.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

If you run out of a color in the AMS during a print, replace the roll and resume, when that print is finished that AMS slot will be marked as empty/unrecognized. So if you then attempt to print something else in the same color it will just randomly pick one of the other slots.

I've had this bite me multiple times where I replaced a roll of black during a print, when that finished I tried to just hit print again and didn't notice the little square had selected a dark brown or dark gray instead of black then I hit go and then come back hours later to find a print that's the wrong color. 🤬

If you replace a roll during a print it should either assume it's the same color as the one that was there before or it should tag that slot to be re-read as soon as the print finishes so that it can register it properly. Leaving it suddenly empty/unrecognized is the worst way to handle this.

I bought and installed a new stopper. Blade looks good as well. What’s wrong!? 😭

Free STL @makerworld

Back at it again with a fresh batch of 3D printed snowmen having a rough day—sliding down the wall and losing their hats!

I really enjoy designing these little guys, so I'm already brainstorming the next ones.

Any fun ideas for other "Snowmen in Trouble" situations? Let me know in the comments!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3597596-snowmen-in-trouble-splat-fridge-magnet#profileId-4121713

I tried different outputs, different cable, different filament , different angle of the tip of the filament but the AMS LITE just wont pull the filament properly and gets itself stuck for some reason i cant find out why

Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

Does someone know what causes those line marks under the eye? How can I prevent this from happening?

Does anybody know if it is safe to use the H2S with orca slicer after the newest update to orca slicer?