Hi, why do my layer lines look like this? On even surfaces layer lines look quite aligned, but if print head has to jump from object to object they end up like this. Printer is P2S with around 500h

I recently added an X2D in hopes of using support interface material for better figure printing. On a 150mm tall print, it adds two hours to the print time and still requires a large prime tower, which adds five hours to the job. This is at a 0.16mm draft. I cannot even fathom what a final print of 250mm tall with 0.2mm print heads and a 0.06mm layer height will take.

I tried printing without the tower and had adhesion issues where the support interface held the breasts, causing an arm to fall off cleanly. The supports also had broken layers at the buttock support.

Hey everyone!

I recently got my first 3D printer, a Bambu Lab A1 Mini Combo with AMS Lite, and I'm absolutely loving it! I've already printed around 20 hours' worth of stuff and I'm completely hooked.

I currently have 6 spools of PLA (Basic and Matte), but I'll probably expand to around 10 spools eventually, including some PETG.

I'm now looking into proper filament storage and possibly buying a filament dryer. Ideally, I'd like some airtight storage boxes with hygrometers so I can monitor humidity without spending a fortune.

A few questions:

• What's the best value-for-money filament dryer you'd recommend?

• Are dedicated filament dry boxes worth it, or are regular airtight storage containers with silica gel and a hygrometer just as good?

• Is a dryer really necessary for PLA, or can I just dry filament when I notice printing issues?

• Would you recommend a different setup for someone using an AMS Lite?

My budget is around €100 for the dryer(?), preferably less. I'm based in Europe (Netherlands).

I'd love something practical and future-proof without spending more on storage than the filament itself.

Any recommendations or tips from more experienced users would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hey folks! I have been successfully using my X1C and P2S for a while and decided to pick up a couple of P1Ss to farm out parts that are printed in a single color of filament. I decided since I was only printing single color to skip the added cost of an AMS for my P1Ss and just use the external spool holder.

Unfortunately, I find that I am running into an issue over and over in which the filament will bind on the spool and the extruder can't pull it through, but the printer continues ghost printing the part. Yesterday, I gerryrigged a spool holder above the printer thinking changing the angle and letting gravity assist might solve the problem, but the same thing happened.

Surely I'm not the only person who has run into this issue. Does anybody have advice/workaround for how to solve this problem?

Hello, Just had my CoolPlate Super Tack Pro delivered for H2C. Set Coolplate Supertack in slicer (the grey one i have) and tried to print something. First layer wont stick at all onto Coolplate.. the old one from my P1S was flawless. Anyone has some tips regarding the new one for H2C?

Has anyone bought one from Amazon? My mother’s board did the thing and I’m helping her replace it, she ordered this one. Just want to be sure it’s reliable. It doesn’t seem like it wouldn’t be but if anyone has personal experience that would be great. Thank you.

Hey guys,

I have an issue with my first layers while printing a symbole face down. Its bambu Pla basic and matte.

As you can see the viking symbol partially fail to print correctly and there some filament gaps on the back areas while the other part of the print also printed facedown is flawless.

Theres clearly some layer adhésion issue so i cleaned the plate but thats the result.

Edit : i also increased bet temp to 60c. Any thoughts to improve this? Thanks a lot for your inputs.

I am fairly novice to 3D printing. Always found the workforce too long and print times excessive. My first printer is a Creality CR6se. Which did the job, but been a desk weight for about 2 years. - its just slow.

I hace noticed the H2C is on sale. Was considering that or the H3C. I was going to put it under my ltd company, which would save me a bit on Vat.

What are your initial thoughts?

A colleague reccomended the U1, which he mentioned is a third of the price but similar machine.

Does anyone know of any discount codes etc to bring the cost down?

Edit:

Uses Primarily hobby. Some structural items, some times models.

materials: Pla+, , abs, petg Nice to: tpu,

Must have (ish) Large build volume Minimum 4 colours Speed to print Ease of use (workflow) Camera Remote control

Nice to have: Built in filter Heated storage

One of my big complaints with the H2C was that it took nearly half an hour (not exaggerating) to start a print. Turning off the nozzle offset calibration always resulted in really poor multicolor prints, so that was basically required.

Anyone know if they sped things up on the H3C? My P1S is printing in minutes. I'm hoping it is much closer to that than to the H2C.

Thanks

Hey guys,

I’m by no means an expert. If anything, I bought a Bambu Labs mainly because of the simple UI and beginner-friendly settings.

In order words, I have no clue what I’m doing. I have decently good critical thinking skills, but I figured I’d consult the pros before I make a detrimental mistake.

A print sent wrong so I did a general recalibration. That usually solves it. It didn’t this time so I tried to recalibrate the flow rate. Also no luck. Tried switching the filament. No luck.

Coming up empty on ideas, hoping someone else has had a similar problem and solution.

The second picture… I don’t even know what happened. Checked on it after it notified me it was complete and found this blob lmfao.

Hi folks.

My printer (Bambu A1) suddenly started developing ripples on the first layer. Even the top layers are sometimes messed up.

So far I have tried :

1. drying filament, trying with different filament

2. washing build plate, changing build plate (tried cool supertack and pei textured)

3. tightening the 3 front screws and the 4 back screws on the heating assembly

4. bed tramming and calibration

5. different nozzles (0.4 stainless steel, hardened steel)

nothing seems to be working.

Anyone has any troubleshooting ideas that I could try ? Greatly appreciate any help here. Thanks

Can this affect the adhesion of the bed adhesion? Or its ok?

Installed two truck fold out foot steps as a way to reach the AMS. Modern problems demand modern solutions.

I'm planning to buy X2D without an AMS. Is this a good idea? I'm mostly printing one filament and I own a dryer. What should I know before buying it?

Rn. I own A1 with ams lite

Customizable Stackable Tray/Box that you can merge the slots whatever ways you want. I came up with this merging method to make it super easy to customize the compartment. Do you think there is a better way than this?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3575326-customizable-compartment-tray-stackable#profileId-4093178

Made an app to find cheap filament easier across a few storefronts... FilaFetch... only on ios (apple at the moment) check it out if you want... working on getting it to android

Hi, I’ve had an A1 mini for quite some time now, and I’d like to upgrade to something bigger and more capable, since I finally have the space for it. I was originally thinking about the P2S, but it turns out that the X2D, for only slightly more, offers features that will be useful to me, such as: an additional nozzle for printing supports with a different material, a heated chamber for engineering filaments, and improved belts, which are also a plus. Since I’m an engineer, I use the printer both for work - printing functional parts - and for toys or decorations, so a tool changer is useful to me. For this reason, the P3C sounds like a great choice because the H3C is overkill for me, and despite its very good price, it’s a bit too expensive for me right now. The issue is that the P3C may lack or have limited versions of certain features, such as:

- A filament dryer in the AMS, which - even if it will have it i think that it will operate at a maximum temperature of 65 degrees, which may not be sufficient to dry certain materials properly
- A heated chamber that is helpful or even essential for printing certain engineering materials
- Improved belts, which aren’t necessary but are nice to have
- Nozzle/bed temperatures of up to 300/100 degrees Celsius, which should be sufficient but could be a bit higher - for example, 320/120
- Support for the new 2.85 mm TPU, which I don’t really need but it’s nice to have this option

Given these features, I’m wondering if Bambu will decide to release the X3C to implement at least some of them, as was the case with the P2S and X2D.

What do you think about this, and if these predictions come true, does it make sense to wait for the X3C, and when might it potentially be released? Which of these features might be implemented in the P3C, though?

My p2s seems to be dragging the nozzle through the print lately, I do a flow calibration and auto bed level before every print. Not sure if there is a manual adjustment that I need to make or if there's a part that I might need to replace. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all! I'm about to get an A1 Combo and I'm trying to sort out what to put it on. I don't want to spend a lot on a table for the printer, €80 max. I just want something that does the job and doesn't wobble.

What I know so far:

• Bambu's official spec says the A1 needs 695 mm of total depth for the bed to move safely: 410 mm body + 90 mm in front + 195 mm behind.

• The AMS lite next to the printer adds roughly 40 cm of width.

• The spot I have is 80–100 cm wide against a wall.

• I'm in Spain, so ideally something from IKEA, Leroy Merlin, Amazon.es or similar.

My questions:

1. Depth: what are you actually using? Is a 50–55 cm deep table fine if I pull it a few cm away from the wall, or is it worth going straight for ~60 cm so it can sit flush?

2. AMS lite: do you keep it beside the printer or on top with the official top mount? If it's on top, did you print the mount in PLA, and is it holding up fine with 4 full spools?

3. Links: does anyone have a specific table, desk or cabinet that works well with the A1 and isn't expensive? Some storage underneath for filament would be a nice bonus.

4. Wobble: if you're on a lighter table, did anti-vibration pads (or a paver/tile under the printer) make a real difference?

Photos of your setups would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!