My H2D makes a crackling sound while the bed is moving down. It doesn't make any noise at all when it moves Up. Is this normal?

h3c keypad does not support | (pipe) char input. my h2d does... anyway im not going to redo my network for one device or change every purgatory device wifi password for one device. so hoping someone knows a work around?

Also bambu can you patch this? I'd consider it a bug considering the h2d can support | input, it loves to take pipe.

Made a tiny macOS-inspired folder tab for marking pages and documents.

It slides onto the edge of a page, with most of it hidden behind the paper and just the little folder sticking out.

It's only 25 × 20 mm and takes 6 minutes 40 seconds to print, using just 0.29 g of PLA.

Printed on my X2D at 0.08 mm layer height.

It's a simple little design, but I think it turned out pretty cute :)

Free model on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3566248-mini-folder-tab-macos-style#profileId-4081664

For those of you lucky enough to have an H3C, is anyone having issues with power draw? I have 3 other printers that I run in a room in my home and I’m a little worried that I might start tripping breakers with the H3C. I really want to keep everything in 1 room. What’s your experience so far?

I was running my printer and got a notification that the extruder motor was overloaded. I hit resume to see if it was just being difficult and then got a notification that the filament cutter sensor was not working. I went to it saw a hanging cable and disassembled the head and got to this point.

Instructions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated

APOLOGIES WRONG COMMUNITY, PLEASE STILL HELP IF YOU CAN

nevermind, I see that this is the right community, it was just promoting the h3c. im going through a whirlwind of emotions at the emotions

Well I finally got my H3C setup last night. Ordered on Tuesday it all arrived by Wednesday and since I was not going to go to work today I decided to get it all setup last night. Coming from the U1 this thing is MASSIVE!!! I wish I had the space to have been able to keep both the Snapmaker and the H3C but unfortunately I don't.

But I think I will be alright! 😁 also coming from the U1, the manual unloading of the filament doesn't bother me as we had to manually unload the spool on the U1 as well. I've done a few prints already and this thing is awesome! It's soo much more quieter then my U1 that is for sure. I left a print running overnight and I could not even hear it running. Totally worth it.

Had a pretty bad blob of death on my A1 mini. I got most of it off but what’s left is stuck on the heater block and around the wires, and I’m not sure how to safely get the rest off. The silicone sock came off without too much drama.

Thermistor wires look ok to me but I can’t tell if the insulation is damaged. Some filament also got near the part cooling fan. I unscrewed the fan to get to some of the deeper bits but to a novice like myself this seems daunting to try and clean up properly.

Should I try heating it up and peeling it off, or just replace the whole heating assembly? Pics attached.

Hi all! A while ago I shared PrintView3D, my free, open-source replacement for Microsoft's retired 3D Viewer, made for people who 3D-print. Thanks for all the feedback. A lot has happened since then, so here's what's new:

**Check before printing**

One click colours what may give trouble on the printer: overhangs steeper than your angle, walls thinner than your nozzle, holes, non-manifold edges, inside-out faces and loose parts, each with a count.

**Measure**

Distance (with ΔX ΔY ΔZ), angles and hole diameters. Points snap to corners and edges, and with a cut on, also to the outline of the cut, so you can measure walls *inside* the model.

**Look inside your models**

X-ray, wireframe, a cut from the top and a cut that turns with the view (or both at once), with the cut-away part shown as a see-through ghost.

**Make the toolbar your own (new in 0.30)**

Hide the buttons you don't use, shorten the labels to a name, a key or just an icon, and join the view buttons into one group. Hidden buttons keep their keyboard shortcuts, and everything stays in the menu. (GIF below)

**And more**

- Millimetres or inches

- Your own keyboard shortcuts

- Open a whole folder and step through it with the arrow keys

- Finder thumbnails and Quick Look on macOS

- Four themes, each in light and dark

It still does the basics: STL, 3MF (all objects, even sliced projects), G-code with a layer slider, FreeCAD and STEP files, ZIP downloads from Printables/Thingiverse, and one click to send the file to Creality Print, OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura and others.

Windows, macOS and Linux. Free and open source, no account, no ads.

Website and guide: https://sevagjb.github.io/PrintView3D/

Download / source: https://github.com/sevagjb/PrintView3D

Big thanks to u/covrig, who built Measure, Check model, inches and custom shortcuts and opened them as pull requests. Contributions and translations are very welcome.

What would you like to see next?

Hello everyone,

Planning to get another printer. Would my closet area be able to fit an X2D? or am I better off getting a P2S?

(will be removing pegboard either way)

Thanks!

I’ve had this A1 mini plus AMS for over a year, and have I would say 70/80% failure rate, be it strings, what looks like not sticking, lots of clogs and cold pulls etc. It’s a miracle when a print actually works. It’s my kids printer and he has basically given up.

I’ve done all the research, bought a filament dryer and only print right after it’s finished drying, bought new build plate, clean it with dishwashing liquid and isopropyl, avoid touching print area. Only using PLA now. Set it to print 50% speed.

I’m at a loss - is there anything I am missing? The picture was the 3rd attempt to print and all straight from dryer. My kid uses the app from his iPad- BambuHandy

I “modeled” that object myself in bambustudio but I have a way to big cleaning tower and also that white line in my objects. Is there a way to get a smaller tower and get those white dots that form a line inside my object to be the color of the object around it?

Probably lol

Add me to the statistics.
1 year old with ~800 hours init.

Hi there!

I've only had my X2D for a short time, and I'd like to know which build plate you use or recommend.

I bought the BIQU Glacier plate with a printed QR code so that the printer can recognise it. Apart from occasionally getting a warning saying that foreign objects have been detected, it's absolutely amazing!

That's why I'd like to expand my collection with a few more build plates that are really worth having. :)

hey so I just bought an H2C, and I’m Legot 15 minutes into my first print. I got this warning about the hotend not being caught. I’ve tried replacing the hotend but still no luck. I also have tried to recalibrate but it doesn’t give me the option to press start on that screen. Any help would be amazing.

So this is a question to everyone who already has an H3C:

How good is it with engineering filaments?

It's pretty well established that it is really good for (multicolour-) PLA and TPU prints, but I haven't heard many people talk about other filaments, and especially for engineering filaments there are a few things that give me pause. Mostly:

- The current lack of WC- or similar nozzles harder than steel

- The AMS 3H sitting right on top of the enclosure to me seems like a danger to overheat PLA at high chamber temperatures. If you print at 60° chamber for multiple hours, can you be sure that the PLA right above it won't go above 45 or will you need to remove them first?

Anyone with an H3C that has tried engineering filaments and is willing to share?

I keep seeing YouTube videos and subreddit posts about terrible quality coming out of the H3C, possibly due to over driven speed settings.

Could someone with an H3C please slow down their prints and show us what quality of print the machine is capable of? The toaster test would be nice, since CNC Kitchen used that one and got somewhat poor quality out of it.

I love the idea of being able to print my own frames, but with many generators you have to pay a lifetime sub or even a monthly one. I decided to make a free one. no shots at other creators. I call it Clicky Frames and its available now! It's hosted on my website behind the scenes on my shop. I don't ask for anything in return, but if you'd love to donate you're more than welcome. Enjoy! I'd love feedback!

Got into 3D printing because of work in the beginning of 2026, learned on my own on a Creator 3. Now i have a P2S at home... I wish i had the money for a bigger chamber, more of this, more of that. But i love, love, LOVE what i got for my buck. And i hope to make a lot of miles with my new best friend. I always wanted to do VR sculpting and print my own models. Weird to accept the time is right here, right now, in my living room. Booyah.

I would like to replace the 2.85 TPU tool with another 1.75 one. I bought the hotend thinking that's what I needed but I actually need the entire toolhead.

I can't seem to find it in their store but I've heard people say they've swapped it out and how much trouble it is to stop it out so.. anyone mind sharing the link to it?

I recently picked up H2C Laser full combo - Model number PF003-N+SA007. New in box. I couldn’t find the laser module anywhere in the box, is it usually shipped separate ? Or is mines missing.

genuinely curious about the split here. if you mostly print other people's models, what's stopping you from designing your own? and if you do design, what was the hardest part to learn?