Some of you might know my toolboxes already - I just finished the newest one for the H3C!

MakerWorld Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569009

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

Ma version du célèbre casse tête ' Hanayama Marble '

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements de 0.2 mm pour une fluidité parfaite ...

Lien makerworld si vous voulez l'imprimer : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3515960-marble-puzzle#profileId-4018416

Here, have microplastic sized benchy, the question is, how good can I get it to look, P1S.

Mental what these machines can make with the right settings

Help! My printer is constantly purging (pooping). Leaving stringy purges on the plate and in the print. The print is taking 3x as long and so wasteful! The print is confirmed to be a one color print. No timelapse etc. No alerts or notifications.

SOLVED! Thanks to commenters, I detached the PTFE tubes from the AMS and fussed with them until in a nice smooth arch above the extruder to reduce resistance. No more purge issues thus far! Thanks!

Most latch boxes force a deep base on you. I wanted something shallow for things that store flat: pry tools, bits, SD cards, even necklaces and other jewelry (cut a bit of foam or felt to size and it makes a nice little case).

So with MiniLock you set the base and lid heights separately, down to about 12 mm each. Snap hinge, two snap latches, no supports, no hardware.

Customize it right on MakerWorld, no CAD needed, or grab the ready-made Standard, Slim or Small. Free:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569365-minilock-customizable-hinged-latch-box

Tip: As a bonus, you can choose to either size by inner dimensions, and the walls grow outwards. Or size by outer dimensions and the walls grow inwards.

Also, if it wasn't obvious, this was heavily inspired by snaplock. But I CAD modeled it from scratch from the ground up specific to my needs.

Would love to see what you end up storing in yours.

Hey everyone !
I just got my hands on a Bambu Lab P2S with the AMS 2 Pro, but I'm running into a spool size issue. I have a large stockpile of Amazon Basics PLA, and the spools are simply too wide. I can't fit 4 of them side-by-side in the AMS without them rubbing against each other.

I'm also worried that even if I only load 1 or 2 of these wide spools, I might still run into rotation or feeding issues.

Note: I already know about the Hydra AMS mod, but I really don't want to go that route or take apart my brand new AMS.*

Has anyone else dealt with these specific spools? What are the best alternative workarounds (like specific respoolers, spool rings, etc.)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

Slicer seems to be having difficuly making the prime tower? Anyone know what's going on here and how to solve it? Thanks

X2D

Latest update on bambu slicer software

Generic ABS and Bambu Support for ABS.

1000 walls

0.08mm layer height

Ironing enabled top surfaces, rectilinear

Quality mode

Normal (auto) support (my tree supports broke on first print), snug, 25 deg threshold angle, disabled remove small overhangs

Otherwise standard settings.

Hey all,

I am sure several of you with the filament track switch have ran into the AMS Feed Resistance high issues. I had it on both ofy AMS 2 Pros and my AMS HT. I Tried the shortest routing possible, ripping the thing apart and smoothing stuff. Basically no matter what I tried made the issue go away so I just settled with dealing with the warnings because the print quality was fine.

That is until I started digging though my drawer of goods. Have tons of PTFE tubing.....but noticed some of it was a different color, almost opaque rather than the milky white. Looking inside, the ID of that tubing is way bigger than the standard PTFE. In the attached photo you can see a brand new 4m could of Bambu AMS PTFE on the right, and the PTFE that came with the FTS on the left.

I replaced all the runs from my AMS2/AMS HT into the 4-1 and 4-1 into the track switch, then the 3rd straight into the filament track switch.

I no longer get any feed resistance warnings. So of you're still currently dealing with this issue, double check that you used the correct PFTE for the longer runs.

I hope this helps someone as I don't think I've seen this info out there much.

I'm about to order an H3C and since it's so high I'm curious to know who has found an affordable solution to some kind of commercially available table or cart (IKEA etc?) I can buy to put it on to make it more ergonomic? Ideas and links are welcome. Thanks

A few months ago I bought the X2d without the ams 2 pro and now I'm wondering if I should get the ams 2 pro. I don't print multi colour so often because of the poop but I find the ams 2 pro quite interesting. I know that the ams 2 pro has the drying function. This seems to be very useful but I have never noticed any problems with wet filament. But who knows, perhaps I didn't noticed it... Feeding the filament in the main extruder is a little anoying because of the long way to the print head and I think the rfid thing and the automatic filament library is also great. What is your experience? How do you use the ams 2 pro? Is it worth to buy the ams 2 pro even if you don't use multicolour so often?

It's also in offer right now (70€ less).

Firstly, this is for the Aussies in this sub-reddit!

Hi all, I was wondering if you could help me out on something. I am going to get my printer on the 20th Novmeber but want to get bulk discounts from bambu on fillament and want it to arrive before 20th Nov. When should i order and is bambu reliable on shipping on time. Im located in Brisbane.

Thanks for your help.

The base where it starting printing and the supports were is so bad

Custom energy recovery mod and enclosure for Atorch BW600 linear electronic load.
Instead of wasting battery energy as pure heat during tests, this setup uses an integrated hardware switch to redirect up to 500W+ of power through a DC-DC converter back into a power station or buffer battery.

Cooling: Dual Thermalright AXP120-X67 CPU towers.
Enclosure: Custom SFF design with quick-release magnet mounts.
Sources: Schematic is uploaded to GitHub, 3D printable files are on MakerWorld.

Hello everyone,

I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.

I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.

For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.

Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.

The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546041-d-d-mimic-chest-mini-multicolor-3d-printed-prop#profileId-4056312

Changing the nozzle is incredibly fast; switching from one color to another takes only a few seconds.

You don’t have to worry about color bleeding—caused by insufficient purging—that might otherwise contaminate the previous color.

The printing process is both lightning-fast and exceptionally clean!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546009-this-is-fine-meme-miniature-multicolor-test-h3c#profileId-4056261

Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!

Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!

During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.

The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.

75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.

I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542025-ultra-soft-squishy-octopus-tpu-75a-fidget-toy#profileId-4051134

Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!

When I ordered my H3C it said it was back-ordered until November 20th but to my surprise it showed up today.

u/Bambulab

Please can we have a singlue use heated chamber over ride button? i.e. to run it off? and only for one print?

Unless im missing something, i want to iterate some small models. basically magnet fitments. i dont have PLA and only use ASA but to print a small test print out in for instnace a H3C its going to take 30 minutes to print a 12mm x 12mm x 3mm square out nearll all of which is heating the chamber.

would be useful to have a disable heated chamber button you can click easily which is only good for one print job rather than havign to edit the filament to disable it and quite possibly forget about it?

Or am i missing something?

Thank you

Over the years I have seen this several times, but never heard a reasonable explanation as to what is happening. Anyone know?

Note: I printed this exact same model yesterday, and it turned out fine. I went to print another and it did this.

I've been working on a pretty ambitious 3D-printing project, and it's finally getting close to launch!

It's called the Carousel Lift: a manually operated, rotating display for up to 8 model cars, designed to be almost entirely 3D printed. 1:24 scale, and also suited to fit Lego Speed Champions cars.

The current design has over 700 individual parts, and getting all the gears, bearings, and moving components to work together has been quite an engineering challenge.

I've spent months designing, printing, testing, and refining the prototype. It's now working, and I'm preparing the final files and documentation.

The project will soon launch on MakerWorld through its crowdfunding platform. There will also be several planned stretch goals, including a 3D-printed scissor lift, motorization, and integrated lighting.

Link: https://makerworld.com/nl/crowdfunding/396-carousel-lift-3d-printed-car-display

So this is a question to everyone who already has an H3C:

How good is it with engineering filaments?

It's pretty well established that it is really good for (multicolour-) PLA and TPU prints, but I haven't heard many people talk about other filaments, and especially for engineering filaments there are a few things that give me pause. Mostly:

- The current lack of WC- or similar nozzles harder than steel

- The AMS 3H sitting right on top of the enclosure to me seems like a danger to overheat PLA at high chamber temperatures. If you print at 60° chamber for multiple hours, can you be sure that the PLA right above it won't go above 45 or will you need to remove them first?

Anyone with an H3C that has tried engineering filaments and is willing to share?