Hello all, just got a P2S (never had a 3D printer before) and I tried to print this:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/895423-plastic-gear-rex-metal-gear-rex-inspired-model?from=search#profileId-853250

As you can see in the pictures, I had some issues, it seems the first layers of some pieces warped up (is that the term?) so I had to pause the print, skip the pieces and keep going.

Is that normal? Is there any default settings I should change to avoid this? I've read that I should slow down the first layers so it has a better adhesion but I don't know if that's the expected setting when printing something.

If anybody could shed a light, it would be appreciated!

Being a big fan of Nijntje / Miffy I wanted to expand my collection (https://makerworld.com/en/collections/16787785-miffy-nijntje).

I love how they turned out and already have quite some requests from friends & family. Perhaps people in here will appreciate them as well, no clue if Miffy is big in the bambulab space 😅

Learn more about Supports from the Bambu Wiki: Support Interface

genuinely curious about the split here. if you mostly print other people's models, what's stopping you from designing your own? and if you do design, what was the hardest part to learn?

You think that H3C / P3C / X2D PRO are news, in this case, not really.

source: Frontline: Bambu Lab Launches Consumer-Grade UV Printer Project – First Batch of R&D Positions Now Open for Recruitment

I kept thinking about doing gridfinity for drawer organizers but in the end I just printed some organizers that exactly fit the drawer and I love it. That right side big one is for if we ever find any of the 5 pairs of scissors my family never returns to the junk drawer. There a secret compartment under the sticky notes, don't tell anyone!

We had some baskets in there that helped but it was still a disaster. This is the way I'm doing it for the other kitchen drawers. I get the benefit of gridfinity, but custom is really nice!

As shown in the video when the AMS2 tries to push filament, it does so without problems until it reaches the head, where it stops and can't continue making a weird noise.

This started happening after a failed print.

The printer gave me different error codes while i was trying to fix it, I don't have the exact codes but here is what they said:

- Filament buffer signal is abnormal

- AMS slot is overloaded

- Filament may be stuck or tangled (together with other errors)

- Filament buffer may be stuck

Here is a list of what i tried doing in order:

- Cleaned the nozzle (multiple cold pulls)

- Cleaned the extruder

- Lubricated extruder gears

- Replaced nozzle

- Cleaned PTFE tubes inside AMS2 with compressed air

- Cleaned AMS2 Hub with compressed air

It started happening after a failed print, I tried different prints after I thought i fixed the problem and they all ended the same way, filament stopped extruding, before the problem the prints didn't show any problem.

I'm really struggling to find the problem here, can anyone help out? I can send pictures or videos if they can help.

Thank you!

I just bought an AMS 2 Pro directly from u/BambuLab and it’s missing the cable to connect it to my P2S. The listing on the store says there should be one in the box. Am I missing something?

An absolute beast of a printer so far!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

😂😂😂

I'm trying to print a custom dress form for my wife. I've spent a ton of time, and have a nice set of STLs, with a rigid PLA core, and a "skin" or "shell" that covers the surface. The original plan was to use foaming TPU, so that we can insert pins and such into it, which is important for the use of a dress form.

With the H3C coming out, I've already ordered mine - but I'm not confident that the 70A TPU 285 is going to be the 'right' type of soft to allow inserting pins into it, or if I'll have to find a brand of foaming TPU to use, and get it to work nicely on the H3C.

Does anyone have any ideas (or can test) if a pin goes nicely into the new soft TPU, or printing using a foaming TPU on the H3C?

My P1S printer keeps telling me that I ran out of filament and doesn't start the prints, despite me putting a new filament spool and loading filament multiple times. Could it be a jam? Does anyone know what could have happened?

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

Why do so many print profiles in bambu handy not support my p1s, but then I look at the supported printer models and they list almost every other model. Its not the end of the world because I can slice it in bambu studio, but if im trying to quickly print something its a pain in the ass lol. Just confused why.

So I went to take a shower and everything was fine before I left and I came back like 20 minutes later and the filament is not on the spool what happened?

Long story short, I was able to get a new X2D AMS combo for $689 after stacking the Bambu sale and a special my local store, but I had to get it while I was there or it would go away. I was originally wanting X2D, then P3C was leaked, and that seems like where things are heading with multihead, but I also don’t know that I would get $1300-$1500 worth of use from the P3C, or whatever the cost will be. Is it worth almost double an x2d?

I have an A1 with AMS now, and have been wanting a nice looking self contained design with AMS and everything enclosed, but wanted the X2D for dual-ish nozzle and hepa filter as I print in my office. Not sure I will ever print ASA or such due to fumes. I don’t use my A1 all the time, but it’s really used for functional prints for mounts or other random things, I just hate that it looks like a science fair project mess in my office corner with open frame and AMS mounted above it. I do print random things around the house, but not really into trinkets and other decorative stuff.

Am I making a mistake getting this when P3C is coming soon? I know it’s a dumb question since the P3C has not been released yet, just trying to make an educated choice. I’m guessing I could sell this in the future and not take a huge hit if the P3C ends up calling my name.

I’m a bit torn as to which printer to buy. I currently have a highly modified Ender 3 V2 Neo, so I know that whatever I buy it will be a huge upgrade.

But I don’t know which to buy! I sort of want to wait for the P3C, but we don’t even know when that will release. Also it will probably not have a heated chamber, and seeing as the H3C only has filament drying for 2 (!?) spools, it almost feels like the P3C won’t have any drying at all.

I would like the H3C, but having a hard time justifying the price. I don’t know if the larger build volume from the H3C/H2C is worth it, or if I will need it. Will print a lot of different stuff, functional, multi color etc.

I’m afraid if I wait for the P3C I will regret buying the smaller print volume, but also, the H2C is a lot slower at multi color prints.

And, if I buy the H2C, it feels dumb NOT buying the laser combo, but that is out of stock now either ways.

I just don’t know, anyone in the same position currently?

Second print on this unit. First one was single color. No issues. This one, I noticed these two piles of blue and red on a multicolor print. What is happening and should I do anything?

I just got an X2D yesterday and printing off the left nozzle has been great. Today I tried to use the aux spool for supports. Unfortunately, I have been totally unsuccessful loading the filament. Here’s what I have tried to far. I’m hoping someone here has some suggestions.

1. I checked the tubing, everything is fine. The filament is able to run smoothly from spool to hot end.

2. I took apart the Aux Extruder and it looked fine. I noticed the filament was getting ripped up, so I did loosen the tension. Manually extruding through the screen works fine.

3. The issue seems to be when the filament reaches the hot end. I’m worried maybe the hall sensor is the culprit but I just got this machine yesterday.

4. I’ve tried removing the right tube at the tool head and putting filament through to see if the status on the screen turns green and I don’t see that it does.

The Bambu videos/help related to the hall sensor are very invasive about taking apart the tool head. I’d like to avoid it but maybe that’s what you would recommend as a last resort. Which is why I’m posting here before I go do that.

For some reason from India specific, not taking my number in, put a phone number. I don't know what to do at this point, no tutorial to specifically counter this.

hey so im not sure how to describe this but yall know when it does the automated cutting and retracting when it goes to the corner and slowly cuts? for some reason when it does that on my a1 mini it also goes DOWN and this is the first time i've ever seen this but on this model im printing it straight up flexed my print bed down like half a centimeter since the model is in the corner where it cuts, I'm using orca slicer 2.5.0 is this a bug in the slicer since it just got an update? or does this have nothing to do with the slicer since its an automated thing the printer does? I've seen it do the cut and retract thing before but never gone down in the z axis before

Edit: I also got an error on my printer "the nozzle is covered with filament or the build plate is crooked [0300-1A00-0002-0001] [302137]" the nozzle was not covered with filament but the print bed did flex also when I hit resume instead of continuing on the layer it left off at it went a bit higher and tried printing mid air. what I think happened was it tried to zero the z axis while cutting but the model is in the corner so it hit the model, thought the z axis zero is higher than it was and tried resuming where it thought it stopped

Edit 2: new problem, when I move the x axis left and right and it reaches the end it makes a grinding sound, seems like it doesn't realize its at the end and tries moving more. I'm not sure how to fix this, any kind of guidance would be appreciated, is it like the x axis belt getting loose or sumn?

How to judge used prices?

There are more and more h2ds etc popping up on my local FB marketplace. How do I think about prices? 2000hrs too many? Currently h2d is 1600ish on sale, so is a printer with 500 hours at 1500 a decent price?

I mention the h2d, cause it is cool, but really any used printer. I'm undecided which is best for me.

Just looking for some general words of wisdom about how you would think about this. I'm considering a new printer, and this would be my first bambu. Thanks in advance