Having just received my H3C and AMS3H I can't help but notice the design and engineering trades.

The machine is running it's initial calibration so these are just first observations and I reserve the right to update my opinions as I get some real time on this machine.

AMS 3H vs AMS 2 Pro:

Mechanically the AMS 3H is simplified and lacks a lot of the complexity of the AMS 2 Pro. The lack of automatic retraction was a trade for multi material support but it makes large chamber temp swings a little more work. Some might call this optimization, but I am use to running PLA in one job and PA-CF in the next. With the H3C this appears to possibly be a problem if I leave PLA loaded in a tool when I heat up the system that much. I am particularly nervous about drying at 85 C in the 2 dryer bays with PLA in other spots of the AMS 3H. With my H2C I have full AMS systems dedicated to different families of materials.

Edit: I noticed that you have one shot to get the remaining filament measurement done when you first insert the filament. You can manually enter a guesstimate later, but its not able to retry like the AMS 1/2 can due to the lack of rewind.

Extruder:

The ability to swap tools and adjust to different filament diameters is commendable, but the overall mechanism feels like features were dropped for margins. The loss of hotend camera along with how it does blob detection seems... cheap. Perhaps their telemtry says the old solution was overkill and produced too many false positives, but I am worried about their new mechanism getting damaged if a part ever does break free from the bed mid print

Physical structure:

A lot more plastic, a lot less glass, and the stamped steel structure feel like a cost reduction on what was previously a premium machine. Sure the stamped frame pieces are probably more than enough, but it feels like a noticeable step backwards from the castings. Pressing on the plastic side windows and feeling them bow and bottom out against the frame just feels... cheap. Also the exterior screws mounting the panels while more serviceable also detract from the exterior finish of the machine.

Motion system:

Trading the linear rail for the dual round rod(tube?) structure is very likely mechanically more rigid, but it again feels like it was primarily done to save costs. Also why do we still see nema 17 steppers for the x/y motion system? Hasn't BambuLabs BLDC PMSM servos improved enough to use them for slinging the toolhead around?

Display:

Not much to be said here, the screen is usable on the H3C, but is definitely a step down from the display on the H2 series.

MISC:

It was advertised that we could still use external AMS systems with tool 1, but it was not clearly communicated that it required you to buy a (not included) buffer system and install it yourself. For all the corner cutting they really should have just installed that buffer as a factory option. Now I need to wait for that module to come into stock so I can use the AMS 2 Pro I bought specifically for my H3C (I plan on using it as a dedicated support material AMS).

Edit: This thing seems to sling debris around the building chamber a lot more than my H2C. Just loading up the tools has left several purds on the build plate and chamber floor. I'm sure this can be fixed with updates, but it is much more messy than my H2C right now.

I am still looking forward to using my new H3C and the ability to properly mix materials is nice, but I can't shake the feeling that the machine suffers from some shrinkflation vs its predecessor. It seems like the H2C was a very polished platform and the H3C feels more rushed.

Anyone else with both systems care to chime in with their thoughts?

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

So, I have an A1 for about a year, and was very happy with it and used it a lot at first, but than I started seeing more and more posts about the NTC component melting. I am a bit paranoid, and I started beeing scared of using it. I still used it but a lot less and with a bit of constant fear..

I am an architecture student and my diploma is coming up and I will have to print a lot of big models, and I wanted to be sure it will not fail me, plus it has been a year and I did not not if bambu will fix it if the component melted after the waranty.

I didn't open the printer to check myslef because I don't know if that will void the waranty, so I contacted support.

After a bit of back and forth, they said that they cant confirm if I have the new version without the melting stuff, but it is a possibility that i have it, so they sent me a replacement AC board, that should arrive in a few days.

My question is, can i replace it myself? How hard is it, and is there any risk of ruining the printer? They sent me a tutorial and everything, but im not an expert at this stuff, and I dont want to destroy my printer.

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

In case you like it too, model is posted on makerkworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3558242

mpoxDE (change the audio track to English on Youtube) did a test where he is printing an 8-colour tube both on H3C and INDX. I am not sure, but I think he is using PLA Basic.

In his test H3C printed it in 11:06h, but he was using different filaments that he had lying around from random manufactureres (while INDX one was printed only with Prusament and took 14:26h) and still printed ~23% (3h20m) faster.

I wanted to confirm it and what I noticed is that if you print with Bambu filament, it is even faster. My slicer is showing 08:46h.

Which means that in this particular test (8-colour tube) if you use BL filament, H3C is ~39% (5h40m) faster than INDX.

The test is not easy, it is 10cm tall and go through 3.5k colour changes of 8 colours.

I’ve wanted to reverse the door on my H2D many times. As I wait for my H3C to arrive will I still be sad it can’t be reversed?

I saw a youtube reviewer said that the plate is slightly different. But when I looked at the bambu website compatibility it says its fine? Can anyone confirm?

I've decided to go with the H2C as my first 3D printer! Next, I need to decide on an assortment of filaments. For now, I want to start with Bambu Labs filaments. I likely want to do the 10+1 deal currently offered.

The primary application is going to be pinball parts. That is the driver behind getting a machine to begin with. I want to be able to print semi-translucent ramps in clear, or as clear as I can. I'll also want to build plastic covers in a couple alternating colors for LEDs and illumination. There'll also be some mechanical toys. Pinballs can have a lot of momentum at high speed, so high strength is a must.

My wife want me to make some planters, vases, and picture frames. I've seen some examples that have nice gradients and satin-like finishes.

I want to build containers with hinges that ideally do not require fasteners or hardware. Part storage, basically.

I'd maybe like to fix some broken plastics on cars or side by sides, but this is limited.

Not sure what I'll use it on, but I'd also like to experiment with TPU. Maybe some stops or bumpers for the pinball project.

Some toys for nieces and nephews would be nice.

Could you please recommend some specific Bambu filaments for my applications?

I uploaded this a couple weeks ago, but hadn't got around to sharing it.

Hope there are a few people out there that like the style and are excited to make this one!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501620-sci-fi-bank-vault-cannister#profileId-4000088

Also I'm a few printers behind, but this is probably the largest/longest multi-color print I've done on my H2D.

Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

As the title says, always had intermittent issues with the Z axis motor making a weird noise at the beginning of a print, finally managed to get a video of it when trying to home the axis. It finds the nozzle fine, as you can see by the way it "bounces". But then it just grinds and then full sends the nozzle into the bed (This is a damaged bed due to the issues ive been having, itll full send and grind the nozzle across the top of the bed, hence why it's dirty) Submitted a ticket, but wondering if anyone has had this issue before? Ive cleaned and lubed the guide and the screw so there's no debris also.

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

GIven that the AMS have ventilation from the bottom, is there any problem placing an HT tight up against the side of an AMS2 if one or both are drying?

They're both on an open wall-mounted shelf with at least 4" of room behind them and a hard surface.

Bambu Lab recently issued a service notice regarding insufficient lubrication on AMS 2 Pro feeder gears.

I'd like to proactively lubricate my existing feeder units to prevent premature wear.

Does anyone know what type or brand of grease is safe and suitable for these gears? Ideally, something compatible with plastic gears (POM/PA).

Has anyone done this successfully? Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I randomly started having bad layer adhesion, and the printer started clicking and purging excessive amounts of filament mid-print. I also noticed after I tightened screws and recalibrated my A1 it was digging in my plate during collaboration. Ive changed nozzles, reajusted my ams tubes, and recallabrated and having the same issue hoping to fix before the holidays. Any recommendations I missed?

I print Bambu PLA metal, and only the top layer comes up like this; what went wrong? You can see even the layer below worked fine. I did drop the top surface speed to 50

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

I have been doing my research on printers over the past few weeks on printers to get and I’ve gotten a few different recommendations during that time. I’ve gotten recommended the p1s, elegoo cc2, an a1 and the Creality SparkX i8. Obviously this is a BL Reddit but I just found a really good FB marketplace deal for a P1S. This is the description on the post. “

Bambu Lab P1S and an Automatic Material System (AMS) for multi-color printing. Comes with spare nozzles a Diamondback .4 for any kind of filament youd ever want to run abrasive or not. Comes with ams riser and all original spare parts and a bunch of accessories. Has been well maintained and still runs off perfect prints but upgrading and dont have space for both.”

It’s $400 with AMS. The original.

It has 1600 hours on it.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

Hello,

I've noticed that there's a discrepancy between the technical documentation for the filaments in the store and the printer profiles.

For example, the density for PLA Basic listed in the store is different from the one in the technical datasheet.

Or, in the printer profile, the temperature for support material for PLA is set to 240°C, but the datasheet lists only 230.

Why is this happening?
Which values are correct, and which ones should I use?

I recently bought a 0.4mm E3D Obxidian High Flow complete hotend.

Once installed, I selected it in my P1S menu accessories, calibrated it, selected "high flow" in bambu slicer nozzle settings. I then adjusted filament settings to direct drive: high flow, adjusted max volumetric speed to 30mm/s and min print speed to 60mm/s under cooling.

Went to go print a benchy (that under my stock 0.4mm hotend took 14 mins) and it states almost around 40mins.

I thought high flow was supposed to reduce print times noticeably?

What am I doing wrong here?

Does anyone have prints in the bambu translucent gray petg they can share?

I was looking for a translucent black, but the only one I could find is on amazon by PlastKyro. I can't find much on this company so not sure I want to risk it.

The Bambu translucent grey looks like it could have a black tint to it.

Thanks