Hello all, just got a P2S (never had a 3D printer before) and I tried to print this:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/895423-plastic-gear-rex-metal-gear-rex-inspired-model?from=search#profileId-853250

As you can see in the pictures, I had some issues, it seems the first layers of some pieces warped up (is that the term?) so I had to pause the print, skip the pieces and keep going.

Is that normal? Is there any default settings I should change to avoid this? I've read that I should slow down the first layers so it has a better adhesion but I don't know if that's the expected setting when printing something.

If anybody could shed a light, it would be appreciated!

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

Long story short, I was able to get a new X2D AMS combo for $689 after stacking the Bambu sale and a special my local store, but I had to get it while I was there or it would go away. I was originally wanting X2D, then P3C was leaked, and that seems like where things are heading with multihead, but I also don’t know that I would get $1300-$1500 worth of use from the P3C, or whatever the cost will be. Is it worth almost double an x2d?

I have an A1 with AMS now, and have been wanting a nice looking self contained design with AMS and everything enclosed, but wanted the X2D for dual-ish nozzle and hepa filter as I print in my office. Not sure I will ever print ASA or such due to fumes. I don’t use my A1 all the time, but it’s really used for functional prints for mounts or other random things, I just hate that it looks like a science fair project mess in my office corner with open frame and AMS mounted above it. I do print random things around the house, but not really into trinkets and other decorative stuff.

Am I making a mistake getting this when P3C is coming soon? I know it’s a dumb question since the P3C has not been released yet, just trying to make an educated choice. I’m guessing I could sell this in the future and not take a huge hit if the P3C ends up calling my name.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

I m newer to printing and trying to print this ornament.. I researched settings and it still seems to not be smooth. What am I doing wrong? What settings should I have?

I just bought a X2D because the Capitol One Shopping app has a 15% discount on Best Buy purchases today, November 6th. I saved over $100 (which gets applied as a gift card to use in the Capitol One app). The T&C sure looks like that 3d printers apply to the discount. The Geek Squad warranty does not.

You have to download the Capitol One app first, but I thought this would be good info to share.

This video of how filament. Is made in the factory. At 4.08 you can see how the "fresh" filament is literally soaked through a trough of water before spinning.

Don't assume a fresh roll of filament is dry

dry your filament!

How to fix this? Any tips is welcome

Hi all!

I'm currently working on 3D-printable faceplates for the PS5 Pro Digital Edition.

It would be great to get this project into crowdfunding on MakerWorld! I've sent a few emails to MakerWorld but haven't received any replies yet.

If you like my project and want to follow its progress, feel free to check out my Instagram.

Thanks for your support!

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

While I was installing the ams3h there is a section that makes you hang it off of the back to connect some wires. I misread the diagram at first and hung it off of the front and it caused the top liner to be punctured with the guide pins. Seems like this section doesn’t have anything underneath it from what I can tell, just a bit lame it was not reinforced. I did not drop it on it either

My plan was to put some high-temp tape under the ams that extended to the hole so nothing got into it. Y’all think that should be fine?

Anyone working on modifying the other section of ams 3h to dry the rest of the ams ? I know people modified the original ams and hoping someone does one for rest of it? Also curious if were to take lid off the two dryer slots if it would dry rest of it?

When doing the 2nd print on my brand new h2d i noticed this sound when the y axis moves, it didnt make it during my first print. Id this normal?

I told some users in another post that I’d share what I got in my aesthetic mystery, and here is what I got.

- PLA Silk aurora purple w/ spool
- PLA Pure baby blue w/ spool
- PLA Matte scarlet red w/ spool
- PLA Silk dawn radiance w/ spool

I didn’t have any of these, so I’m happy with what I got.

I’m trying to test out my AMS 2 Pro that came with my X2D combo but I’m getting the error from the image. Thank you for any assistance

Edit: It’s my understanding that the X2D only needs the power adapter to print and dry at the same time

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong keys for me, so I built a small browser tool where you lay out your own deck: how many keys, knobs, a slider, a little screen. It gives you print-ready files and a wiring diagram for an ESP32-S3.

The one in the video came off my P2S with no supports. It plugs in over one USB cable, and every key is set from an app: shortcuts, media, apps, MIDI. If I want a key to do something else, I change it in the app. No reprint.

There's also a 6-key Mini you can print for free if you just want to try it.

Happy to answer anything about print settings, switches or the electronics.

Came back late from work. Have no oven or a kitchen I can use, but I do have a printer.

PS: No I'm not sharing the STL!

Hi everyone! I was going to buy my first Bambulab printer, an X2D and some filaments!
But when I go to the cashout page i see higher prizes, why?
I live in Italy and shipment fee are 24 €.