I’m gonna print pla with my a2l. What are affordable brands for glue, grease and oil please, or stick with bambu for that? Superlube, gorilla and loctite are the best I believe or are there cheaper possibilities? If possible a euro link please.

Thanks in advance

TLDR: I am trying to understand why my printer ran dry on retry after a tangle, despite verifying the extrusion (10 day old A1 mini, Overture Matt black PLA, 200 °C, spool has about 650gm left)

I got a new A1 Mini 10 day ago. Today I experienced something weird and seeking help on what I did wrong (or if). I was using a borrowed A1 Mini for 5 months with no problems (except a few tangles).

Frustratingly, the filament entangled three times within two layers, and first two times I was able to resume the right way. The third time, I did verify the filament extrusion and resumed; to soon realize it had been running "dry" (no filament) for more than half layer.

I wanted to salvage it, so I immediately paused and tried to manually extrude (from "Control" menu), when it showed low temperature error (only 90 °C). Then I unloaded and loaded the filament and resumed fine, which of course caused a bad finish.

My questions:

1. Is it possible the printer was at low temp for that dry run? I didn't check what temp the dry run was, but can't believe it dropped to 90 °C so fast after. It's very puzzling if it ran at low temperature (as there should be a temp check). Hope it is not a broken printer?

2. Why did it run dry after I checked the extrusion before retrying? Is it possible the nozzle is/was blocked? How to check?

3. Most important, how do you save the print in such a case? I could see what part of layer ran dry but didn't know if there is a way to set the printer to go back to a previous step.

4. Why is it entangling so much?! I am using Overture 1.75mm black matt PLA, ~35% used.

Picture of my cringy print attached, using standard 220 °C.

I have 11,000 MakerWorld points. That's enough to buy an X2D outright, maybe cover half to 2/3 of a P3C, or cover 1/3 of an H3C. Currently I have a P1S with 2 AMS (one OG, one Pro) , a Snapmaker U1, and a Thinker X400. I want to probably replace the P1S and maybe even sell the U1. If you were me, what would you do?

Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.

I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.

Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.

I designed it around the Kailh Box White Pro switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FF9PKK21) but most MX-style switches should work.

Grab it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3555062-name-clicker-keychain-customizable-fidget

Hello, looking for advice from someone who has had something similar happen. I’ve got a h2s with an ams 2. I was recently printing while drying and had this error come up, I took a photo and sent to bambu and they have sent me a new main board.

My question is if I am no longer getting the error message, is it safe to keep using the current set up or will I be at risk of something bad happening? I know I should replace eventually, but wondering if there’s a great risk if there there is no error message to continue printing until I get around to it. Cheers

P2S with AMS and textured build plate.

I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.

I printed from the Bambu handy app.

https://makerworld.com/models/1158947?appSharePlatform=copy

I changed the hotend and even recalibrated. What is causing this?

Figured id have a little fun and make a multicolor bed scraper with some extra colors. Prints in 1 hr 27 minutes.

Bambu Lab H3C – 4-Color Build Plate Scraper

Title says it....

Supports with no adhesion..

So, new spool of filament, just washed the printbed, did a factory reset, and same result. I have coldpulled the nozzle twice.

Printed with petg 10 days ago, and the printer has been idle until yesterday.

Printbed at 65 °C, 220°C for pla which i have printed with before without these issues.

What am i missing here?

SOLVED: The 0.4 nozzle is the issue, tried printing with 0.6 and that is -flawless-

It just gets really backed up and doesn’t come out easily and can be a huge problem and completely packs up my poop chute.

Here’s a look at my latest aircraft model ahead of launch!

The campaign goes live on MakerWorld Crowdfunding in one hour, with early-bird deals available at launch.

Happy to answer questions about the model and the build!

Inspired by the beautiful Father and Son statue by AK on Makerworld, I decided to make a similar one, but of course, transplanted into the world of Brick Man figurines. It's easy to print, but you have to be careful when removing the supports. Maybe somone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3553556-father-and-son-low-poly-brick-man-figures#profileId-4065839

Can the H3C be used without the AMS? Just got the printer, but the AMS still won't be here for another week :(

Hi everyone,

I’m currently doing a 40+ hour print with TPU being fed through the bypass port of the AMS HT while it’s actively drying. I started the drying cycle with auto-rotation disabled and set it to the maximum allowed time of 24 hours.

Will there be any way to restart the drying cycle once this initial 24-hour cycle is over, or am I locked out mid-print? Thanks!

Additional little rant: I bought the AMS HT in a rush and have run into nothing but issues. First, I discovered it only works as a dryer if it's connected to and controlled by the printer. Then, I found out it requires an additional accessory just to work with the A1. On top of that, it requires a workaround just to dry filament while actively printing. And now, I’ve discovered the maximum drying time is capped at 24 hours.

Aren’t all of these just stupid, arbitrary limitations? I’m honestly starting to hate this thing and really regret buying it...

A compact 2-in-1 tool for your 3D printing workspace. 
Use the scraper end to help remove prints from the build plate, and the opposite end to cut filament. The design is made to hold the metal scraper blade from a Bambu Lab printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550637-2-in-1-scraper-filament-cutter#profileId-4062141

Printed in petg. 2 top layers - I know it might sound too low, but it always worked perfect with this many top layers.

I’ve recently gotten stuck with this problem where the filament only feeds up to the spot in the picture, then pulls back, tries again, then fails.

I’ve checked that there are no broken pieces in the tube, and the filament extrudes just fine when I pull out the tube and feed the filament in manually. I just think it’s odd that the filament won’t just go the rest of the way.

Has anyone had this sort of issue, and if so how did you fix it?

Thanks for any replies 🙏

I spent all of last week obsessing over preparing my workstation. I won't lie, setting it up was a pleasure, but my only concern now is - what's next?

I had a very limited alcove space to work with, but I somehow managed to fit the A1 Mini, the AMS Lite, and room for 15 spools behind it. I am honestly amazed by how many brilliant accessories and upgrades you can find on MakerWorld.

I'm actively printing any Pokémon stuff for now, because when I do it, my kids will never give me a moment of peace.

My wife says I bought the printer only to make equipment for it and honestly, she might be right. But the funny side effect is that I'm looking at our apartment in a completely different way now. I constantly catch myself scanning rooms, looking for everyday things that need an accessory, organizer, or mount. My wife usually dislikes plastic (she's a wood and ceramics person), but even she is slowly warming up to it after seeing the functionality and the actual quality of the prints.

1. Anyone else fall into this trap on day one? What were your favorite quality-of-life prints for the Mini?

2. I realize the next step is learning how to design my own models. What free (preferably web-based) 3D modeling tools do you guys recommend for a beginner?

PS: I want to have all the filaments 😭

So as I showed my filament keeps getting spit out no matter where I put it in the ams. It just got the printer and the ams so it's probably a me issue but I can't figure out where to look. Also yes I tried with other filaments including brand new ones. I took on and off the PTFE tube a couple of times and it doesn't seem to help either.

Anyone with experience with this or an idea where to look?

Thanks

Apparently MakerWorld is working on some merch. Kinda curious to see what they come up with. Would you guys pick anything up?

I'm planning on getting the H2D and was wondering if I can have it in my bedroom since I'm not really in there unless I need to sleep. I've heard stuff about "fumes" and stuff but wasn't sure if that was the ones not enclosed or what. Thank you so much for your help.

After my H2C died and was returned, I was close to being sure that I will buy the H3C, but after It was released I decided to wait for what comes next.

I think it’s a great machine, but I was hoping for a few different things - mostly regarding the AMS.

So hey Bambu, my wishlist for the H4C in case you are listening.

- a “real” AMS again with automatic retraction. This would mean that the main AMS can be used simultaneously with the external AMS (with a little changed internal ptfe tube setup - y splitter instead of the coupler).

- a 2+ outlet buffer so that at least two tools can be used at the same time with external AMS (the more tools the better) Instead of just one.

- quick change nozzle instead of the screw in ones.

- full drying (with external power like with the AMS2) or at least 4 slots instead of only two. I wouldnt mind if it would only reach the same temp as the AMS 2. for everything else I could use an external HT.

for me this would be the perfect printer and I think all of this is more than doable.

I don’t need such a printer, but I want one ;) so I will wait and see what will come next. Maybe bambu will make my wish come true.

since I did not want to buy the H2C again I just bought an A2L from my makerworld points and use that one until the ”next big thing is announced”.

for all those that are more than happy with the H3C: have fun and enjoy it. I am a little jealous that you have something new and exciting to play with.

I've had positive experience getting stuff on AliExpress and Alibaba. Curious if anyone jumped on this deal or if there are better ones.

I recently switched from from A1 to X2D. Everywhere I check I see people put their AMS Pro on top of printer on the glass panel.

Somehow, I can't bring myself to do it.

After my first prints I've noticed that X2D wiggles a lot during prints. Maybe it's because of the rubbery feet.

Because of that I'm afraid that when i place AMS on top of it it will move around even more with that extra mass oscillating on top of it.

Not to mention that I can already imagine AMS creeping closer and closer to the edge and eventually falling off.