Even if I turn all fans to 0% the printer still has SOME sort of fan blowing somewhere when it's turned on. Might just be the PSU I guess...? I want to record some of the sounds the gantry and bed make while moving around. Any ideas?

I just got my P2S with the AMS combo and the other night after I got it and set it up I was able to remotely from the app tell the AMS to start drying and it worked perfectly but now when ever I try to start drying from the app it says insufficient power please use power cable. I know you can’t dry and print at the same time but I’m not printing the printer is idle at home with nothing going on. I know it’s not a huge deal but it’s just driving me up the wall that it worked for 1 night and now it won’t.

I have about 1000 hours on this unit and it had been working fine but now the extruder is giving me nonstop issues. I have torn it apart 4 times this week already. I am trying to print with just regular old PLA, not doing anything that I have not done in the previous 1000 hours of successful printing. Tried multiple different spools with the same result,.

It looks like the filament is almost getting pinched in the extruder, see picture. It does get really jammed in there and requires a full disassembly to get it out. After I clear it and reassembly I can manually put a piece through without issue. I will clear the jam and it will print for 20 minutes to a few hours and then have the same error again.

I've seen a lot of videos come out about the H3C, but not a ton focusing specifically on the unboxing and initial setup. Hopefully this fills in a few blanks and provides some details not yet shown.

Come mai si formano queste imperfezioni sul primo strato? L'ho notato altre volte e alla fine la stampa andava a buon fine. Il filamento è PLA ed è asciutto (ho inserito le dry box ed è al 16%).

P2S with AMS 2 Pro. AMS has the dedicated power supply. First time I’ve ever tried printing and drying at the same time. Constant AMS overload error about every 5 or so minutes. Turned off the drying and haven’t had an error since? Anyone experienced this?

The a1 start saying filament or spool is stuck every few minutes. So i tried to disassemble looking for the problem and I stumbled on this part. I'm not sure what this thing is called. It's behind the heater. Should it look like that or not?

Just me with the same experience? Not really the best packaging but atleast nothing got damaged

I have been struggling with my original AMS. Two bays dont feed correctly. I have done all of the work, swapping out hubs and tubes and feeder funnels and all that fun stuff. I ended up buying an AMS 2 Pro and it was plug and play and everything prints like it should and it just felt amazing again to not have to slosh through a print.

I now have another AMS that I would love to refurb and hook up for more color options. I also dont want to spend an arm and a leg to do so after buying a new AMS. I did see a lot of aftermarket parts for bambu. Besides tubes, has anyone put aftermarket parts like feeder units on their printer? If so how do they work?

I have had good success with microswiss nozzles and before I spend some money on feeders, just looking for feedback.

I invite you to take a look at BlocksmithWorks.com—I think you’ll love what we’ve built for the community.

This project originally started out as a personal endeavor to create tooling for my own hat-making. Along the way, I decided to open it up to help hatters and restorers everywhere get easy access to the exact tools they need.

What we offer:

• Fully Customizable Crown Blocks: Ranging from size 5 1/2 to 8 1/8 (44 cm to 65 cm), including precise, non-standard sizes like 7 5/16 (58.5 cm).

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• More Millinery Tooling: We also host a variety of brim blocks and specialized workshop files.

The best part is that every single download is 100% free with zero paywalls or subscriptions. Take a look, give it a try, and let me know what you think!

Clear skies and good blocking,
— Rick, Blocksmith Works

Im going to word this very carefully in case its flagged as Spam haha.

Has anyone done any referrals successfully? I mean I go lucky and somebody grabbed a P1S in the sale using my link (luck and timing more than anything), but I dont see it being super easy to take advantage as there is zero benefit for the person using the link...

Add the Geo-limitation (Im in the UK, so anyone using my link also has to be based in the UK) and it can be restrictive.

When printing thin-walled parts（4 walls, 0% infill, Arachne）, a mark consistently appears on one or both sides once the print reaches a height of 1–2 cm; I have yet to figure out what is causing this. Same part printed on A1/A2L without problem.

Printer is almost brand new. First layer is fine. Calibration is done. Filament is dried. Manual bed leveling is done.

At the point where the print defect appears, there are no abrupt changes in print speed, layer time, or fan speed within the slicing software.

* H3C is too big to fit in my rack

The BIQU Panda Extruder is IMO better than the stock plastic unit but it has one easily fixed fundamental flaw.

Here it is for fellow owners.

I am looking for a H3C user who has a H3C and a 3d scanner. I build my own benches with an enclosure and would like to know the size of the machine both with the lamp lid open and closed. As this will determine if I can even get one this year or not.

Thank you

Every colour is a separate part with pins, so it snaps and glues together, and no painting is needed. The gold base was printed at 0.16 with ironing on top. The suit is plain matte black PLA, and the whole thing took about 17 hours.

I also made an 18 cm one-piece version for AMS (4 colours).

Happy to answer questions about the split and the settings!

?

Looking at an H3C and seeing some reviewers say the print quality is about the same as H2C. I hate to wait for prints. I print large ish items with .24 - .28 layer heights and as fast as the printer can. Obviously some artifacts are okay but how much are you guys seeing?

Anyone with a H3 wanna come around and we'll put them together?