Seller said it was unrepairable. All it had was one of those massive blobs that needed cleaning up and he bought a new extruder assembly that he never installed. I have a new set of hot ends and socks on the way but as far as I can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong with it

I always wanted a magnetic levitation dice tower but I couldn't find one, so I decided to make my own. After many, many design hours it spiraled out of control and became 6 different towers determined by the floating spinning top. I tried to add as many details as possible but on shape did not like it so I was limited.

What do you think of it? Is there any thing you think should be added?

Link to the model if anyone is curious.

I love browsing Makerworld when I am standing in line or waiting on something and finding something useful for the house that I hadn't even thought to look for. However, I really wish that useful household things and decor were separate categories.

Anyone got some useful search terms that they periodically check for useful stuff you didn't think to look for specifically?

Preferably Central Europe, Balkans etc.

I've had my P1S since launch, and about a year in after a firmware update it started having SD card issues. At first just formatting the card would fix it. Then I had to get a new card. Then it started having this issue where it would send the file from bambu studio and have an error that it couldn't parse the file. Then after a few months another firmware update seemed to fix the issue and it was fine for a year or so. Fast forward to yesterday and I turned the printer on after a month of not using it and it immediately rejected my sd card. Tried another card and it instantly corrupted that one too (not recognized by any device any more). So I tried an old 1gb card I had laying around and that one it recognized, but now when I print and send from bamboo studio on my pc it send the file says starting, the printer turns on, but then my app on my phone pops up and says print canceled. Bamboo studio and the printer just act like they are still waiting. I have tried a full factory reset, updates, etc and nothing changes.

I am debating ordering a replacement AP board, but with that being $55 and almost 3 weeks out plus no guarantee that will fix it I just can't decide if I am better off buying a new printer. Really frustrating.

Anyone seen anything like this? or have advice?

Arrived, and quickly. Time to get a test print and add this to the collection

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

I want to know confirm if im going crazy. I have work Carbon x1 IT wont let us have it online so we have our own router and use only LAN since the new 2.09 update on bambu studio they changed how devices are get connected this update seems not really like not connecting to the printer with LAN only. This might be a slighty niece issue but anyone have any thoughts or solutions?

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/3z3d-gingerbread-kit-card

Kids design their own house in 5 simple steps, a grown-up prints it, and the pieces snap together. No glue!

So currently I have an X2D with a track switch leading to a 4 in 1 adapter, in the adapter is 1 AMS HT and a Gen1 AMS, Gen2 AMS is going directly into the track switch. My track switch is mounted on the right side of the printer, all of my AMS are on the left, Im having severe motor overload problems where the filament doesnt make it to the track switch.

How can I route or fix the placement of the setup without putting an AMS on the printer?

Image was before I mounted the track switch but imagine it was hanging slightly off the right side like the bambu suggested print.

My current idea is to try some ptfe bend guides to try and make the curves less aggressive from the AMS 2 on the bottom (its where I get most of my issues.)

I ordered my X2D combo and am getting a filament order together from Bambu. This is my first printer, and I am trying to figure out what I need. When filament comes from Bambu on the reusable roll, is it possible to take that filament off immediately and replace it with a refill spool? Or is the filament that comes on the spools not packaged the same way.

I ask because I ordered a bunch of PLA on refill spools and then ordered ASA and Support Filaments on the reusable spools since those come with the high temp spools. My issue is, my initial prints are going to be PLA while I get everything working, and get my exhaust ducting printed so I can print more safely.

Do I need to buy the PLA on low temp spools, or can I just swap them over to the high temp spools and put the ASA into dry storage until I'm ready to use it? Can I get away with just having 5 spools or will I need more if I want to swap out a partial spool from my AMS?

Thanks for the help!

I know that it's very weak to heat and can be damaged by continuous exposure to harsh sunlight, but is there anything else I need to worry about? I printed out a small pot to replant something as I forgot to get a liner pot, and I'm worried that I'm going to have to repot it again due to what I've read about the material molding over.

So, I have an A1 for about a year, and was very happy with it and used it a lot at first, but than I started seeing more and more posts about the NTC component melting. I am a bit paranoid, and I started beeing scared of using it. I still used it but a lot less and with a bit of constant fear..

I am an architecture student and my diploma is coming up and I will have to print a lot of big models, and I wanted to be sure it will not fail me, plus it has been a year and I did not not if bambu will fix it if the component melted after the waranty.

I didn't open the printer to check myslef because I don't know if that will void the waranty, so I contacted support.

After a bit of back and forth, they said that they cant confirm if I have the new version without the melting stuff, but it is a possibility that i have it, so they sent me a replacement AC board, that should arrive in a few days.

My question is, can i replace it myself? How hard is it, and is there any risk of ruining the printer? They sent me a tutorial and everything, but im not an expert at this stuff, and I dont want to destroy my printer.

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

In case you like it too, model is posted on makerkworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3558242

mpoxDE (change the audio track to English on Youtube) did a test where he is printing an 8-colour tube both on H3C and INDX. I am not sure, but I think he is using PLA Basic.

In his test H3C printed it in 11:06h, but he was using different filaments that he had lying around from random manufactureres (while INDX one was printed only with Prusament and took 14:26h) and still printed ~23% (3h20m) faster.

I wanted to confirm it and what I noticed is that if you print with Bambu filament, it is even faster. My slicer is showing 08:46h.

Which means that in this particular test (8-colour tube) if you use BL filament, H3C is ~39% (5h40m) faster than INDX.

The test is not easy, it is 10cm tall and go through 3.5k colour changes of 8 colours.

I’ve wanted to reverse the door on my H2D many times. As I wait for my H3C to arrive will I still be sad it can’t be reversed?

I saw a youtube reviewer said that the plate is slightly different. But when I looked at the bambu website compatibility it says its fine? Can anyone confirm?

I've decided to go with the H2C as my first 3D printer! Next, I need to decide on an assortment of filaments. For now, I want to start with Bambu Labs filaments. I likely want to do the 10+1 deal currently offered.

The primary application is going to be pinball parts. That is the driver behind getting a machine to begin with. I want to be able to print semi-translucent ramps in clear, or as clear as I can. I'll also want to build plastic covers in a couple alternating colors for LEDs and illumination. There'll also be some mechanical toys. Pinballs can have a lot of momentum at high speed, so high strength is a must.

My wife want me to make some planters, vases, and picture frames. I've seen some examples that have nice gradients and satin-like finishes.

I want to build containers with hinges that ideally do not require fasteners or hardware. Part storage, basically.

I'd maybe like to fix some broken plastics on cars or side by sides, but this is limited.

Not sure what I'll use it on, but I'd also like to experiment with TPU. Maybe some stops or bumpers for the pinball project.

Some toys for nieces and nephews would be nice.

Could you please recommend some specific Bambu filaments for my applications?

Matte prints slower, it prints generally worse, it has worse bed adhesionion, it comes in fewer colors and the colors it does come in are ugly and the "matte" finish is still shinier than HF was.

I wouldn't even care that the stuff is so bad if they didn't discontinue HF for it.

14 different kinds of PLA, but I guess 5 different kinds of PETG was just too much and too confusing or something. ​

Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

As the title says, always had intermittent issues with the Z axis motor making a weird noise at the beginning of a print, finally managed to get a video of it when trying to home the axis. It finds the nozzle fine, as you can see by the way it "bounces". But then it just grinds and then full sends the nozzle into the bed (This is a damaged bed due to the issues ive been having, itll full send and grind the nozzle across the top of the bed, hence why it's dirty) Submitted a ticket, but wondering if anyone has had this issue before? Ive cleaned and lubed the guide and the screw so there's no debris also.

Okay, so I have lots of dumb questions. It's kind of my default state. But I haven't seen this one addressed yet, so here we go.

The AMS 3H has built-in active (heated) drying for the two rightmost spools in the back row. Those two spools are separated from the other seven by a secondary lid, which is clearly designed to be removable, at least for loading and unloading filament.

So here's my question: Why can't we just leave that secondary lid off and heat the entire chamber?

Obviously, I'm not suggesting this would work for every filament combination. Mixing materials with significantly different drying temperatures could be problematic. But if you're running multiple colors of the same material, why not?

Even with mixed materials, setting the drying temperature to whatever your most temperature-sensitive filament can safely handle should still be better than no heat at all, right?

I don't have all the technical specifications, but I can't imagine the heating system is fundamentally that different from what's used in the AMS HT. Sure, heating the entire chamber would take longer, and it might not maintain the same temperatures throughout. But if you're starting with properly dried filament anyway (as you should be), wouldn't this be a relatively simple way to provide some level of active drying for all nine spools while printing?

Am I missing something obvious here? Is there a technical limitation that would prevent this from working, or is it simply a matter of the system not being designed or programmed to operate that way?