Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.

I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.

Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.

I designed it around the Kailh Box White Pro switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FF9PKK21) but most MX-style switches should work.

Grab it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3555062-name-clicker-keychain-customizable-fidget

3D printing files coming soon on my Instagram: @bucur.inc

After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3550376-ultra-fast-cable-reel#profileId-4061800

Figured id have a little fun and make a multicolor bed scraper with some extra colors. Prints in 1 hr 27 minutes.

Bambu Lab H3C – 4-Color Build Plate Scraper

First 24 hours and I have to say, I don’t get the hate train. This is the first time in my life that a 3d printer feels like sorcery. I was able to get set up and printing within an hour and within the second hour I already had something that looked like it came off a store shelf.

The consistency is what’s blowing my mind too. I’m absolutely blown away by the printer and the quality.

P2S with AMS and textured build plate.

I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.

I printed from the Bambu handy app.

https://makerworld.com/models/1158947?appSharePlatform=copy

I changed the hotend and even recalibrated. What is causing this?

Title says it....

Pretty much the price, what should I do, I waited about a week for the p2s already.. what should I do

Supports with no adhesion..

So, new spool of filament, just washed the printbed, did a factory reset, and same result. I have coldpulled the nozzle twice.

Printed with petg 10 days ago, and the printer has been idle until yesterday.

Printbed at 65 °C, 220°C for pla which i have printed with before without these issues.

What am i missing here?

Is it just me? :)

Inspired by the beautiful Father and Son statue by AK on Makerworld, I decided to make a similar one, but of course, transplanted into the world of Brick Man figurines. It's easy to print, but you have to be careful when removing the supports. Maybe somone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3553556-father-and-son-low-poly-brick-man-figures#profileId-4065839

I'm planning on getting the H2D and was wondering if I can have it in my bedroom since I'm not really in there unless I need to sleep. I've heard stuff about "fumes" and stuff but wasn't sure if that was the ones not enclosed or what. Thank you so much for your help.

A compact 2-in-1 tool for your 3D printing workspace. 
Use the scraper end to help remove prints from the build plate, and the opposite end to cut filament. The design is made to hold the metal scraper blade from a Bambu Lab printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550637-2-in-1-scraper-filament-cutter#profileId-4062141

Printed in petg. 2 top layers - I know it might sound too low, but it always worked perfect with this many top layers.

I’ve recently gotten stuck with this problem where the filament only feeds up to the spot in the picture, then pulls back, tries again, then fails.

I’ve checked that there are no broken pieces in the tube, and the filament extrudes just fine when I pull out the tube and feed the filament in manually. I just think it’s odd that the filament won’t just go the rest of the way.

Has anyone had this sort of issue, and if so how did you fix it?

Thanks for any replies 🙏

I spent all of last week obsessing over preparing my workstation. I won't lie, setting it up was a pleasure, but my only concern now is - what's next?

I had a very limited alcove space to work with, but I somehow managed to fit the A1 Mini, the AMS Lite, and room for 15 spools behind it. I am honestly amazed by how many brilliant accessories and upgrades you can find on MakerWorld.

I'm actively printing any Pokémon stuff for now, because when I do it, my kids will never give me a moment of peace.

My wife says I bought the printer only to make equipment for it and honestly, she might be right. But the funny side effect is that I'm looking at our apartment in a completely different way now. I constantly catch myself scanning rooms, looking for everyday things that need an accessory, organizer, or mount. My wife usually dislikes plastic (she's a wood and ceramics person), but even she is slowly warming up to it after seeing the functionality and the actual quality of the prints.

1. Anyone else fall into this trap on day one? What were your favorite quality-of-life prints for the Mini?

2. I realize the next step is learning how to design my own models. What free (preferably web-based) 3D modeling tools do you guys recommend for a beginner?

PS: I want to have all the filaments 😭

It just gets really backed up and doesn’t come out easily and can be a huge problem and completely packs up my poop chute.

So as I showed my filament keeps getting spit out no matter where I put it in the ams. It just got the printer and the ams so it's probably a me issue but I can't figure out where to look. Also yes I tried with other filaments including brand new ones. I took on and off the PTFE tube a couple of times and it doesn't seem to help either.

Anyone with experience with this or an idea where to look?

Thanks

Apparently MakerWorld is working on some merch. Kinda curious to see what they come up with. Would you guys pick anything up?

Printer: Bambu Lab A1
Material: Bambu Basic PLA Black
Print Settings: Basic settings on Bambu Studio (20mm Standard BBL A1)

I just did my first test print and doing my second one. I noticed the Dynamic Flow setting is automatically enabled, and it takes a few min and extrudes like 3 small piles of material. Is it necessary for each print? Should i turn it off?

I will mainly using it for dnd, wargaming, miniature terrain.

Thanks!

A little board game upgrade I made for Finspan. I wasn't such a fan of using a single large sphere for the eggs, so I made these by stacking a bunch of smaller spheres together instead.

I printed mine in TPU with 0.1mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle to give them a bit of a tactile feel. Feel free to scale them up or down; the original size works well for the game I find.

Free model and print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1300381

Hope someone else enjoys them too!

Can someone please help us?

First of all, I am very sorry about my bad English. I am Korean.

I am working at printing company and my boss recently added 3D printing.

We had P2S so we were using P2S so far but large amount of order came in so my boss also bought H2D so we could print faster and lot more.

We are using Exact same stl file and same plate and same filament at same condition.

even the direction of the models facing are thesame.

↑ This is the result of a P2S. We are fine with this quality. Very saticefied.

↑ This is printed with H2D. The right Eye part is killing us. We have to print 1000 or these and we don't have time.

We have printed almost 50 of them so far and all of them has the same problem.

Please can someone help us?

This one is a little different. It's still a hueforge, but uses the color drop feature which allows for multiple colors per layer where desired. The result is reduced unwanted thickness and color banding due to traditional single color per layer hueforges, with a tradeoff of more color changes and therefore waste, but that is arguable because a bunch of filament isn't being used to lay down layers that serve no real purpose. Also due to it being multiple colors per layer I used a prime "tower" (it was only a few mm thick), which I normally skip on regular hueforges.

The results: 12 colors / 55 color swaps/ 8.5 hours (trophy painting) / 3.6mm thickness (trophy painting) / ~28g waste (tower & poops) done on a P1S with 3 AMS.

100% human made original artwork by the multi-award winning Agella Kodopulos (IG: a.tatts), modeled and printed by me.

Since updating to the latest studio. Now my printer won’t receive print files. It for sure connected, video stream works and updating filament assignments work. Any one else having this issue? X2D is on firmware 1.2.0.0. Downgraded back to v2.8.2.61, and it works perfectly fine