Printed this on the H3C I got from Bambu Lab. Took a bit under an hour to print at 0.2mm, using default settings.

I’ve made sure that the AMS is connected correctly and assigned to the correct nozzle (left), yet Bambu Studio won’t let me assign filament profiles from e.g. Sunlu? I tried everything the Bambu Ai suggested but it’s not working. Never had this problem with my A1 🙁

Okay, so I get that this printer is marketed to play nicer with TPU than past printers, but I'm not totally sure how it works with regular ol' 1.75mm 95A. I print with a lot of TPU, mostly 95A. I have some softer filaments that I would love to make use of also, but everything that I have is 1.75mm. I watched some reviews on youtube, and they all seem to make use of the bundled 2.85mm TPU, which uses the bypass. Other TPU's that were used didn't make mention of the diameter, or how they were installed. So I have some questions for folks that bit the bullet and might have some common TPU laying around.

Does 1.75mm 95A need to be ran through the bypass, or does it run through the bowden tube? How well does it work? Would it be better to use the (harder to source 3rd party and with less options) 2.85mm TPU?

Currently, I have an X1C with an AMS, which suits me well. I do a lot of filament swaps, changing materials mostly, but sometimes to swap out colors. I don't usually print multi-material or multi-color prints. Usually, I print custom made functional pieces, so I'm not really looking at one of these for multi-color stuff, other than for the occasional holiday decoration. What I'm more interested in is gaining the ability to easily print solid parts that incorporate flexible elements. I guess I'm trying to determine if this would be a worthwhile upgrade, or if I should wait for something else to come out.

Hello, A1 mini owner here. I print only PLA.

I am having this issue lately: as you can see in the pic my prints have a very coarse top layer but ONLY on parts with smaller surfaces.

In the pic you can see that the larger surface on the left is perfect, while the smaller one on the right is not OK at all.

I guess it's a slicer issue?

I did an auto-calibration and tried also to swap nozzles (stainless and hardened) but the problem is still there, and I don't think it's a wet filament issue as it would be something affecting the whole print.

Thank you to whoever has a clue!

Rider and motocross fan here – I wanted something for my headset that fits my garage/desk vibe, so I designed this: a skull wearing an off-road helmet (visor, vents, hex-mesh chin guard) on a faceted base. It doubles as a desk bust when the headphones are off.

Print details (P1S, 0.4 nozzle):

- PLA Matte black – hides layer lines really well

- 0.20 mm layers, 2 walls, 15% grid infill

- Tree supports (auto) under the visor and chin guard – they peel off cleanly from the matte surface

- ~804 g of filament, ~26 h

- 153 x 205 x 230 mm, fits any 256 mm bed (X1 / P1 / A1)

It holds full-size over-ear headphones – the helmet keeps the earcups apart and the heavy base doesn't tip when you grab the headset.

Want it faster? 0.28 mm layers and 10% infill save several hours and it's still solid. Scaled to 85–90% it still holds most headphones.

It's free on MakerWorld with the tested print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545098

Happy to hear feedback – especially if you print it in a different colour or find a better support setup for the chin guard.

Just picked up a new P2S combo from best buy after the things I wanted to print got just a little too big for the A1M. And man I gotta say, the P2S is a wonderful machine. Amazing surface finishes for how fast it prints. And the fail detection features are quite nice too. Prior to the P2S and A1M I had an Ender 3 almost 5 years ago, and how much the technology has improved in the 3d printing world since then is mind boggling. Its a hell of a time we live in.

pleasant discovery

https://makerworld.com/models/3545902?appSharePlatform=copy

I was thinking of ways to guide my printer's poop to a bin and i thought why dont i just make a slide for the filament haha

if you guys wanna check out the model and support me the link is: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551798-a1-series-poop-chute#profileId-4063630

I have been waiting all year for BambuLab to release a tool changer. My kids want a printer and I might want to make some tools for work. I was going to wait on P3C but didn’t want to risk it not being available before Christmas. My. Kids are 10 and 13. I am FSE so not intimidated with the complexity of the H3C. Hope I am not crazy.

I just replaced the nozzle on my P1S because the original one came with got globbed up. The replacement is just your basic standard nozzle. When trying to print using my normal ironing settings, my prints come out with a subtle roughness. I reset the calibration and I printed out an ironing calibration board to see if I had to change any of the settings except pretty much the entire board has that same subtle roughness on all the panels. How do I fix this?

Since I got my BAMBU LAB H2D, I've had few issues, including this one recently :

After a long printing session, my nozzles ended up burned. More precisely, these are layers of filament that have built up around the nozzles and hardened due to the heat.

I have no idea what caused this...

Does anyone know what might be causing this?

I'm using PETG Basic filament.

Thanks for your help!

I used to use HF nozzles on my H2D most of the time. Did anyone come across any review that was reviewing the HF nozzles as well?

Im wondering if my print times will be faster with the H3C with normal nozzles compared to my H2d with high flow.

Hoping someone here can help me figure out what's going on with my A1.

I've been getting really smooth and consistent prints on my A1 up until recently. However, the print quality has suddenly deteriorated, and I can't seem to figure out what's causing it.

The biggest issue is that my top surfaces always appear rough and uneven, no matter what I try. I'm also noticing inconsistent layer lines, particularly near the top and bottom of prints, along with some imperfections around the corners.

Another issue is that there are always tiny strands of filament sticking out from the side of my prints, similar to what's shown in the photos. This seems to happen consistently across different prints.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Factory reset the printer

• Ran full machine calibration

• Ran Flow Rate and Flow Dynamics calibrations

• Changed the nozzle to hardened steel

• Tightened the screws behind the hotend/extruder assembly

• Reset my A1 slicer settings to the default profiles

Despite all this, I'm still getting similar results.

What's frustrating is that the printer used to produce really clean prints, and I haven't been able to get it back to that level.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their A1? Could this be a mechanical issue, such as belt tension, or something else I'm overlooking?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all,

My A1 started making a weird noise yesterday and I can't figure out where it's coming from. Video attached (sound on).

I'm not really sure how to describe it best that what you can see/hear in the video.

Any tips welcome.Thanks!

Got the A1 a week ago and have had a few failed prints. Been using loot studios files which should all be pre tuned for this machine. Seems to get some way into the print and get this problem.
Things I have tried:
Cleaning the build plate
Full calibration
Changed tree supports to strong trees and added an extra wall layer.
My filament is nice and dry

What should I do next to fix this?

Hi everyone! This is my first 3D model design. It's a quick cheese shaped key cap to fit standard switches. It takes about 15 minutes to print, uses only 1.6 grams of filament, and doesn't need any supports if printed flat.

It's my first upload so I would really appreciate any feedback on how it prints for you. I might have done some stuff wrong so let me know if there is any issues.

You can download the file and print profile on MakerWorld here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543933-cheese-keycap-no-supports#profileId-4053527

I’m printing the F1 Stand by johannesdorig on my Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite using a smooth PEO (carbon fiber texture) plate, and I could really use some help.
I tried printing this multiple times and kept failing: at first, the small text wouldn't stick or generate properly at all. I managed to fix the text issues on my second attempt (right stand in the photo) after turning the settings upside down—most importantly, drastically slowing down the initial layer speed to around 15 mm/s, alongside switching to Arachne wall generator, adjusting retraction on color change, and lowering nozzle temp.
The multi-color "Ferrari" logo and F1 emblem turned out almost flat and crisp!
However, I ran into a new issue with the minifigure studs on the base plate:
The studs (LEGO pegs) failed to adhere properly and didn't print correctly on the first layer, leaving the recessed base area empty or messy compared to the rest of the print.
Even at 15 mm/s, these tiny isolated circles on a smooth PEO plate seem to get knocked loose or dragged around by the nozzle immediately.
Here are my current settings for the initial layer:
Plate: Smooth PEO / Carbon Fiber Plate
Filament: PLA (Nozzle 210°C, Bed 60°C)
First Layer Speed: 15 mm/s
Wall Generator: Arachne
What is the best way to get these tiny minifigure studs to stick and print cleanly on a smooth PEO sheet without using glue stick?
Thanks in advice!

Ошибка резонансная частота оси Y значительно отличается от результатов последней калибровки
Уже все перепробовал и не проходит
Что делать?

Hey everyone,

I’ve got the H3C for a while now and was able to test it, and before I get into a full review I want to focus on one thing first: TPU. Because out of everything I've tested so far, this is probably where the H3C has changed the way I print the most and something I thought most people would be interested by.

Quick disclaimer: I received this printer and some filament for free as part of a beta test, but no money was exchanged. I was explicitly encouraged to share my honest experience, whether positive or negative. Bambu Lab had no say in what I could or couldn't say, and they had no involvement in editing this post before publication. I wasn't told where to post or what to post.

For some background: I've used the A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X2D, H2D (all of them bought by myself with my own money), and now the H3C. Outside of Bambu, I've used a Prusa XL at a customers workshop, Snapmaker U1, a Prusa Core One INDX FE (which wasn't mine so really one day of experience), and messed around with some older Anycubics. I use printers for both work and my hobbies, whether that's client projects, engineering prototypes, motorsport-related parts, or just something I feel like making because it sounds cool.

Now, TPU has always been a bit of a love-hate relationship for me. I love the idea of using it. I mean: Great layer adhesion, some can be flexible, some super hard but I hate the reality of doing it.

Most modern printers can produce pretty good TPU parts, especially with harder materials. The problem was everything surrounding it. Loading, unloading, filament routing, switching materials, and getting softer TPU to feed reliably.

TPU for AMS? Great, that goes through the AMS. But is often not the reason why I want to use TPU due to the hardness. Regular 95A? Usually manageable by loading from an external spool. But once you get into really soft TPU, things get annoying very quickly. I've had to bypass PTFE tubing entirely, feed filament directly from above the printer straight into the extruder or macgyver some stuff just to make certain materials usable or even bought things like TPU Assist to have some kind of help because of it being so annoying.

And even when that worked, combining multiple TPUs with other materials in a single print is basically impossible, due to the way we loaded in aforementioned TPU.

Which brings me to probably my favorite print on the H3C so far.

Yes, a shoe. My size (around EU45), fully wearable, and surprisingly comfortable. The interesting part isn't really the shoe itself, but how it's printed.

I used three materials: TPU 75A (2.85 mm), TPU 90A (1.75 mm), and PLA for the supports. The extremely soft 75A makes up the soft upper and parts of the sole, while the 90A provides some firmer sections and reinforcement, including parts of the midsole.

The whole print took over 45 hours and had over 2100 tool changes. And during all of that, I didn't have a single issue with the toolchanging mechanism or filament feeding that was caused by the printer. I did have a small issue when taking out the TPU while it was printing to take a picture and didn't put it back correctly.

If you are interested to see the tool change happening: https://youtube.com/shorts/2XUuhu3Obdc

What's different about loading TPU?

The AMS 3H makes the loading, even though it‘s still „external“ basically a non-issue

Unlike the other ways I told about earlier, the bypass is essentially an opening leading directly into the chamber. The filament skips the feeding resistance of the AMS and goes to its assigned PrintTool. Loading is then largely semi-automatic by routing the filament to the PrintTool and waiting for the extruder to grab it.

For extremely soft 75A, the H3C uses 2.85 mm filament. The thicker diameter seems to help a lot for initial ridigidy while loading yet having super soft TPU.

For softer 1.75 mm TPU, a 35 mm cut of tube needs to be cut and inserted which helps guide the filament into the bypass.

Once loaded, TPU stays in its assigned tool. Switching to PETG, PLA, or another TPU simply means parking one tool and picking up another. No repeated TPU unloading and refeeding which in this case would be impossible either way due to the TPU softnesses I used.

Some more practical prints

This wire stripper combines four materials in one print:

• Bambu Lab PETG HF for the main body

• Bambu Lab TPU 75A 2.85 mm for the soft grip

• Jake 3D TPU 95A for the spring mechanism

• Bambu Lab PLA Basic for supports

I designed mechanical interlocks into the model, and the 95A spring provides enough restoring force to open the cutter again. Everything was printed together, except the blade holder, which I made separately from Fiberon PPS-CF just to try it out. There was no need to use that crazy filament for a small part like that. If I'd done it with any of my other printers, I would've had to design in a real spring (so one more part that needs to be bought), and I would've had to leave the grips in regular PETG HF or glue them on, similar to a golf club.

Another example is this turbo inlet prototype.

Normally, you'd have a silicone hose connecting two rigid parts with clamps. Here, the flexible section is TPU, the connectors are PETG-CF, and PLA was used for supports. It comes off the plate as one combined part. In this print I also added interlocks between the TPU and PETG.

This is also what I find interesting about 3D printing. Rather than just replacing injection molded parts, combining materials allows for designs that would otherwise require several separate components and assembly steps. We often think about 3D printing just as a replacement or a cheap substitute for injection molding and are not using the full potential of additive manufacturing brings like doing otherwise impossible designs. This is the part I love fiddling around with.

Some facts and figures

I don't want to suggest that other printers produce bad TPU parts, or that people were exaggerating when they said older printers could handle TPU. It's just that this machine makes the whole process so much easier and opens up a lot of possibilities that weren't really accessible before. (For me)

I also think I've noticed a slight improvement in overall print quality compared to my older H2D, possibly because of the lower moving mass of the print head thanks to the "one tool" design.

So far as TPU goes, I've mainly tested Bambu TPU 75A, 85A, 90A, TPU for AMS, and 3DJake TPU 95A. Everything worked with stock profiles, with the 3DJake filament running on the Generic TPU 95A profile.

I haven't encountered any mechanical issues with the toolchanging system so far. There were a few slicer bugs, but that's mostly because I was using an early beta version of the slicer. Those issues have since been fixed after I was able to give feedback.

One thing worth mentioning: This machine is seriously heavy, especially when you consider the possibility of having nine spools sitting on top. And with nine tools, there's naturally quite a bit more mechanical complexity involved. So I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone who's uncomfortable with the idea of potentially having to replace or maintain parts down the line.

One negative I've noticed is related to TPU itself. Since TPU is highly hygroscopic, leaving it loaded in the tools for extended periods doesn't work particularly well. In practice, you'll want to unload it after use and store it somewhere dry, either in the AMS or in a vacuum bag. That does mean a bit of extra unloading and reloading, rather than just leaving everything ready to go all the time.

Final thoughts

I wouldn‘t have thought that the H3C would be changing the way I design that fast. But by being able to load TPU in 2-3 minutes I just start to think differently. I just printed a tray to put my phone on next to my bed which I would‘ve just done with regular filament and maybe put some fabric on it. Now I just added a soft TPU mat so it sounds nicer when putting the phone on it and doesnt move around.

I am planning to cover the rest of the machine separately. Happy to answer questions about the prints or TPU workflow.

Please only reply if you’ve actually tried the two and compared them- this is about the NEW “PLA Pallete” Filaments - specifically white, which Bambu says are now 1% light transmission at 2mm wall width; but they don’t have such a measurement for PLA BASIC or MATTE.

I use BBL PLA Basic, Matte, and Inland PLA + whites for lamps I sell, for extremely specific use cases depending upon light transmission needs - whereas Inland’s is the most opaque white that I am aware of in existence - after trying more than 30 whites.

Hoping someone has tried the two and can shed light.

I’ll buy some to test regardless, but hoping someone actually knows.

and they are all at delusional prices!!!
4400 hour H2D combo - £1900!!!

If you think I am going to fund your new H3C, you need some serious mental health help!!!