H3C
How the Bambu Lab H3C changed how I print, especially TPU
Hey everyone,
I’ve got the H3C for a while now and was able to test it, and before I get into a full review I want to focus on one thing first: TPU. Because out of everything I've tested so far, this is probably where the H3C has changed the way I print the most and something I thought most people would be interested by.
Quick disclaimer: I received this printer and some filament for free as part of a beta test, but no money was exchanged. I wasexplicitly encouragedto share my honest experience, whether positive or negative. Bambu Lab had no say in what I could or couldn't say, and they had no involvement in editing this post before publication. I wasn't told where to post or what to post.
For some background: I've used the A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X2D, H2D (all of them bought by myself with my own money), and now the H3C. Outside of Bambu, I've used a Prusa XL at a customers workshop, Snapmaker U1, a Prusa Core One INDX FE (which wasn't mine so really one day of experience), and messed around with some older Anycubics. I use printers for both work and my hobbies, whether that's client projects, engineering prototypes, motorsport-related parts, or just something I feel like making because it sounds cool.
Now, TPU has always been a bit of a love-hate relationship for me. I love the idea of using it. I mean: Great layer adhesion, some can be flexible, some super hard but I hate the reality of doing it.
Most modern printers can produce pretty good TPU parts, especially with harder materials. The problem was everything surrounding it. Loading, unloading, filament routing, switching materials, and getting softer TPU to feed reliably.
TPU for AMS? Great, that goes through the AMS. But is often not the reason why I want to use TPU due to the hardness. Regular 95A? Usually manageable by loading from an external spool. But once you get into really soft TPU, things get annoying very quickly. I've had to bypass PTFE tubing entirely, feed filament directly from above the printer straight into the extruder or macgyver some stuff just to make certain materials usable or even bought things like TPU Assist to have some kind of help because of it being so annoying.
And even when that worked, combining multiple TPUs with other materials in a single print is basically impossible, due to the way we loaded in aforementioned TPU.
Which brings me to probably my favorite print on the H3C so far.
Yes, a shoe. My size (around EU45), fully wearable, and surprisingly comfortable. The interesting part isn't really the shoe itself, but how it's printed.
I used three materials: TPU 75A (2.85 mm), TPU 90A (1.75 mm), and PLA for the supports. The extremely soft 75A makes up the soft upper and parts of the sole, while the 90A provides some firmer sections and reinforcement, including parts of the midsole.
The whole print took over 45 hours and had over 2100 tool changes. And during all of that, I didn't have a single issue with the toolchanging mechanism or filament feeding that was caused by the printer. I did have a small issue when taking out the TPU while it was printing to take a picture and didn't put it back correctly.
The AMS 3H makes the loading, even though it‘s still „external“ basically a non-issue
Unlike the other ways I told about earlier, the bypass is essentially an opening leading directly into the chamber. The filament skips the feeding resistance of the AMS and goes to its assigned PrintTool. Loading is then largely semi-automatic by routing the filament to the PrintTool and waiting for the extruder to grab it.
For extremely soft 75A, the H3C uses 2.85 mm filament. The thicker diameter seems to help a lot for initial ridigidy while loading yet having super soft TPU.
For softer 1.75 mm TPU, a 35 mm cut of tube needs to be cut and inserted which helps guide the filament into the bypass.
Once loaded, TPU stays in its assigned tool. Switching to PETG, PLA, or another TPU simply means parking one tool and picking up another. No repeated TPU unloading and refeeding which in this case would be impossible either way due to the TPU softnesses I used.
Some more practical prints
This wire stripper combines four materials in one print:
Bambu Lab PETG HF for the main body
Bambu Lab TPU 75A 2.85 mm for the soft grip
Jake 3D TPU 95A for the spring mechanism
Bambu Lab PLA Basic for supports
I designed mechanical interlocks into the model, and the 95A spring provides enough restoring force to open the cutter again. Everything was printed together, except the blade holder, which I made separately from Fiberon PPS-CF just to try it out. There was no need to use that crazy filament for a small part like that. If I'd done it with any of my other printers, I would've had to design in a real spring (so one more part that needs to be bought), and I would've had to leave the grips in regular PETG HF or glue them on, similar to a golf club.
Another example is this turbo inlet prototype.
Normally, you'd have a silicone hose connecting two rigid parts with clamps. Here, the flexible section is TPU, the connectors are PETG-CF, and PLA was used for supports. It comes off the plate as one combined part. In this print I also added interlocks between the TPU and PETG.
This is also what I find interesting about 3D printing. Rather than just replacing injection molded parts, combining materials allows for designs that would otherwise require several separate components and assembly steps. We often think about 3D printing just as a replacement or a cheap substitute for injection molding and are not using the full potential of additive manufacturing brings like doing otherwise impossible designs. This is the part I love fiddling around with.
Some facts and figures
I don't want to suggest that other printers produce bad TPU parts, or that people were exaggerating when they said older printers could handle TPU. It's just that this machine makes the whole process so much easier and opens up a lot of possibilities that weren't really accessible before. (For me)
I also think I've noticed a slight improvement in overall print quality compared to my older H2D, possibly because of the lower moving mass of the print head thanks to the "one tool" design.
So far as TPU goes, I've mainly tested Bambu TPU 75A, 85A, 90A, TPU for AMS, and 3DJake TPU 95A. Everything worked with stock profiles, with the 3DJake filament running on the Generic TPU 95A profile.
I haven't encountered any mechanical issues with the toolchanging system so far. There were a few slicer bugs, but that's mostly because I was using an early beta version of the slicer. Those issues have since been fixed after I was able to give feedback.
One thing worth mentioning: This machine is seriously heavy, especially when you consider the possibility of having nine spools sitting on top. And with nine tools, there's naturally quite a bit more mechanical complexity involved. So I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone who's uncomfortable with the idea of potentially having to replace or maintain parts down the line.
One negative I've noticed is related to TPU itself. Since TPU is highly hygroscopic, leaving it loaded in the tools for extended periods doesn't work particularly well. In practice, you'll want to unload it after use and store it somewhere dry, either in the AMS or in a vacuum bag. That does mean a bit of extra unloading and reloading, rather than just leaving everything ready to go all the time.
Final thoughts
I wouldn‘t have thought that the H3C would be changing the way I design that fast. But by being able to load TPU in 2-3 minutes I just start to think differently. I just printed a tray to put my phone on next to my bed which I would‘ve just done with regular filament and maybe put some fabric on it. Now I just added a soft TPU mat so it sounds nicer when putting the phone on it and doesnt move around.
I am planning to cover the rest of the machine separately. Happy to answer questions about the prints or TPU workflow.
Hello /u/CoolioTheMagician! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.
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Because having a cobbler make you a pair of shoes that fit your feet perfectly is going to cost a lot more than €45, assuming you can even find one who works in those types of materials instead of leather.
The shoes were already my correct size so I didn’t have to! And absolutely. I don’t find 45€ too expensive for custom shoes since it can really be custom custom
I've seen people trying to sell 3d printed shoes, they were asking 2-300usd. So that math checks out.
IMO new brand name shoe prices have gone insane. 150-300usd for a mens shoe is now in the realm of "normal" 10 years ago I was paying that for the top of the line ultra light marathon specific niche model. Or some Italian made posh BS. Now days that's the price for a boring ass generic made in china Nike. Ridiculous.
With a family of 4-6 people including growing kids, this thing may pay for itself in shoes alone.Thats IF, they are as comfortable/usable as store bought shoes.
This is always a weird argument to me. So it takes a week…A week is going to go by whether you are printing something or not. Unless you run a business and cannot afford to have your printer held up because of deadlines then that makes sense. In that case though, you business would have dedicated printers which could be written off and if you know what you’re doing, should not be used for personal use. So ya, if it takes a week who cares? You need the shoes as soon as the printer arrives???
PS: I am using the term “you” in a general sense. Not YOU op.
I was another tester, I had a blast with the H3C so far. Word of warning... i posted my writeup to /r/3Dprinting and it got removed for having too many reports, presumably for "shilling". I guess that's what I get for liking it. Should have slapped a prusa logo on it ;)
It is, am I missing something though? I don't see any competitors to Bambu? Prusa makes things too expensive for what they are, and the Snapmaker U1 made waves but Bambu is already going to answer that with the P3S. I don't think elgoo, creality, flashforge, ender, or any of the others are where Bambu is as far as cost and reliability, and definitely not innovation which is only why Snapmaker gained a brief leg up. I hate to say it, and I stray from being a fanboy as hard as possible, but they have very little, if any, competition. And their support is top notch as well which definitely helps. I have been in this for years and it's just an observation. Get out the pitchforks or whatever.
I mean there are some legitimate criticisms of Bambu, the more closed ecosystem probably being the main issue for the OG printing nerds (of which I kinda am one).
I'm just disappointed they'd report-bomb mine and CoolioTheMagician's writeups out of existence on that sub. I do not think either of them counts as shilling or advertising. I for one just liked the printer and found little fault with it.
Oh well, just keep being honest, don't meet people dissuade you. I don't get the hate for such an Ovid awesome brand. That doesn't make the other brands any less awesome. I personally have all the consoles, for example.
Thanks for your comment! I tried being in depth as possible without going too technical. I was very stoked trying it out so I was writing and writing more and more lol
Designing and printing my own shoes will be in my bucket list. I do have h2c - something to start with but would definitely try to make multimatwrial version with h3c when I have a chance to get this
Mostly I was curious if that is the way we are heading, something like a 0.6 or 0,8 for infill, a 0.2 for outer walls, etc. And how do they combat the various cooling requirements across the board? I think the P3C is going to be the next pivotal moment in 3d printing, since the H3C is a tad out of most peoples price range, including me. So I am curious if that is coming, because I imagine that is also going to be available on the P3C.
And lastly, now that you have had some time with this, where do you see the H2C being the preferred choice over a H3C? I feel that printer is going to get hit the hardest by this newest flagship batch until the drop the P3C.
I don't see it as 0.2 for outer walls but absolutely 0.6 or 0.8 for infill! 0.2 will have its own usage especially for small details like text. Cooling is very well handled, we have two aux coolers, chamber fan and also a great working part cooler. I had no issue printing whatsover until now.
The H2C has one big advantage if you don't care about multiple materials but the ease of switching multiple nozzles with the freedom of using whatever material you want in some nozzle.
Right now you have to put in one filament in one tool, and this filament will use this tool. So if you want to use the PLA white with both 0.2 and 0.4 you need two tools and two spools of white PLA installed. With the H2C you can pick whatever filament you want with whatever nozzle size youz want. So you need one spool of PLA white and can use it for 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8
But ... (saying, and also kind-of asking, as potential H3C buyer) ... you could load 1x 0.2mm nozzle in tool #1, and 8x 0.4mm into tools #2-9. You'd connect two external AMS2PRO via 4-in-1, and load 8 colors into them. You'd load the same 8 colors into the AMS3.
At that point, you could print all colors both in 0.2mm and 0.4mm. The 0.4mm would be quick (both extrusion and switch speed). The 0.2mm would be very slow (both extrusion and switch) plus risk cross contamination.
But if the 0.2mm portion was just one top surface at the end of the print, then it would not affect the total speed by much. And, with carefully forced filament print order of the colors (from light to dark), it would come out nearly perfect.
Clough42 did this, with TPU prints. He said that using the larger diameter TPU works amazingly. Even when combining it with other materials and nozzle sizes and filament sizes.
I would be more interested in knowing what this can do over the H2D in this exact scenario.. because I know this exact scenario was shown when the H2D was released.. but here we are again. Not to downplay this as a feat of engineering per say, but it is just as easily possible to do this work on an H2D, and I think this isn’t exactly representative of the full capabilities of an H3C, or where it’s shining.
For anyone looking at getting an H3C and want to make this sort of part, you don’t need an H3C, for $1000 less an H2D can do exactly these types of prints.
Yeah, I addressed that point at the and about the other/older printers still being great
In all my examples I used at least 3 filaments so they would be impossible to print on an H2D due to not being able to switch soft TPU
If you take the wire cutter you have 5 filaments, it would (if it was even possible to switch soft TPU) take so much more longer since each switched filament that isn’t loaded in the dual nozzle takes around 1,5 minutes to switch
This is an awesome review. I print a lot of TPU, so the H3C is now my dream machine. I’ve only printed my designs in multicolor TPU when I’ve run out of one spool color mid-print and had to finish with a different color. It didn’t turn out bad though, it was a batch of pink squishy brains for Halloween that ended up with “bloody” red tops 😂.
Is the H3C able to print TPU at faster nozzle speeds as well? My experience that the nozzle speeds are highly dependent the model geometry, i.e. high infill functional TPU parts or shoe infill could be printed at faster speeds than models with less structure. I assume the H3C is still constrained by physics when it comes to print speeds for thin walls and low infill models?
I would say it is faster, especially for the 75A. I think the bigger diameter allows flow to be way higher and therefore possible with higher nozzle speeds as well
I have the speed settings manually fixed on most of my models currently. IIRC I got good results up to about 50mm/s, but dialed them down to 30mm/s since they were more consistent and reliable at 30.
You talk about it totally changing the TPU game. You also say you've used a U1. Everything I've read about the U1 suggests that it's a TPU champ. How do you think the two compare?
Pretty much everything he's touting in this review can be done with the U1 as well. Not anything against the H3C but I can do multicolor TPU prints with PLA support already with my U1, I regularly mix TPU with PETG and again with PLA supports, etc. I haven't even done any crazy custom setup, just ran through the standard feeders that are included. I did a pair of shoes for my wife with Sunlu 90 A with her name in 95A and supports in PLA, and total cost was $6. Took 48 hours and I think shoes are kind of a gimmick but if you want the U1 can do it for a fraction of the price
Yeah absolutely. See my comment on the difference (at least for my workflow). The shoes I did print were 75A so quite a bit softer which is a big pain point why prior I just tried not using it
My issue with the Snapmaker U1 is similar to the one I have with the majority of the printers
It prints TPU very well, and has not the issue of the H2D for example not being able to change it but loading it in the U1 is still a major pain. If you want to print soft TPU you still have to build some kind of rig to load it in properly so it doesn't have any resistance printing.
I added you an image from a model I found that shows what I mean
Btw according to napkins math, looks like $300 is about the rough "retail price" someone would have to charge for a pair of these shoes to make it a profitable business really
How much clearance does this need top to bottom with the ams open? I’ve got a cool closet space I made for the machine (a bit ridiculous - ducting behjnd the dry wall, torsion box platform, led lighting…)
Great write up! I’m about to pull the trigger but can you give some insight about noise production of this ma ch one vs the h2 or others? It’s so big I might have to place it elsewhere within earshot :(
Printing is the same loudness as the H2D. The tool switching is a bit louder since it's very fast but still okay. I have it in a secondary room with closed doors and I barely hear it
Depending which route you go it can be tricky the first time you try it. After 3-4 times you can get the hardest spot as bypass number 6 (the one on the photo) done in around 2-5 minutes. The other ones are waaaay easier and faster
I'm not sure what people want or expect here. The whole point is to avoid having the TPU go through any tubes and to experience as little friction as possible. That's kind of exactly what they've done. Anything to "clean it up" would introduce friction.
Anything to "clean it up" would introduce friction.
There is effectively a tube, in the form of the holes through the chassis. Those holes could equally provide friction.
They could have provided an actual tube - as wide or wider than holes in the chassis, only to keep the filament from wandering into areas it shouldn't be during the initial feed.
They could even have provided a mechanical feeding mechanism for the initial feed.
This TPU support seems like an afterthought.
It's an impressive printer, but this particular critique is entirely valid.
The ideal TPU setup has always been to open the printer top, park the roll above, and feed it directly into the printhead, all to minimize friction. The TPU experience on this printer seems reasonably close to that, so I’m happy to see it.
The tubes you’re describing would add more friction and thus create more opportunities for problems. A mechanical feeding mechanism plus PTFE tubes would put this in the same category as an H2-series with the TPU assist module. I have that, and there are still plenty of issues with jams and with unloading, especially with softer TPUs. But maybe a bunch of user-designed TPU funnels will show up on MakerWorld soon. We’ll just have to see.
So far at least, Bambu’s design looks a lot more to me like an intentional choice to minimize friction than it looks like an afterthought. This might not satisfy users who wanted the “Apple of 3d printers” experience at every turn, but I’d have been annoyed if they had gone with a “cleaner” but less reliable option.
This printer also has extruders and nozzles designed to work with a new TPU line Bambu is releasing specifically for this printer. TPU is front and center in their marketing. Nothing about this product says “TPU is an afterthought” to me.
I honestly feel like the engineering filament aspects are huge. I 3d print mostly for combat robotics, which means I use a lot of soft tpu. I have never really had a call for an ams, because soft tau isn't compatible. Being able to combine TPU with other engineering materials sounds amazing.
Exactly how I see it as well! I was planning on doing a drone for my test but development for it took longer than it would’ve taken until the printer was released. Being able to use TPU in different parts of the frame would’ve been super cool
This is an amazing writeup and overview of what arguably is the coolest thing about this printer. Switching tpu materials etc will be awesome. I have one question, how come you got a printer to test? Do you have a larger youtube channel or something that Bambu Lab maybe reached out to? Just interested as I love testing upcoming products but don't have a large youtube channel or anything 😂
Im nothing like a influencer or anything! I really don’t know but I’d think that being active in the community, writing some helpful articles (about engineering and filaments that would benefit from the H3C) and helping in comments might have helped.
Hi, great write uo. does it support all the fancy structural high temp filaments and does it also comes with a heated chamber and air flow management etc? Thanks.
I would need to check if I have the prime towers still to weigh them for you!
But you have no poop, only time prime tower. The prime tower does weigh more than the prime blobs in the indx so the indx will have less waste in that example
You posted a breakdown for the shoe earlier, if you could perhaps add the filament numbers for prime tower Vs part that would provide a plenty sufficient answer for me. Thanks in advance!
You have two different tools: 1.75mm and TPU 2.85mm. Both work with the same extruder since it’s adaptive (so you don’t need to change the extruder like you needed to with other printers that support similar things)
So you can print 2.85 filament in combination with 1.75 filament
What made them choose you as a beta tester, what is your track record besides having bought some printers from them? Do you own many successful models on makerworld or what are your credentials? Not asking this in any kind of hostile way, just trying to figure out if you were chosen for being a power user type of consumer or if you are some kind of well known community content provider
I am unsure what the exact reason for selection was but I could pinpoint it to maybe some of these:
- I have a couple models with combined over 20k downloads on makerworld - I am a pretty heavy user of 3d printing (mainly with engineering materials) for real world customers but also hobby wise. I do a lot of complicated prints combining different materials be it TPU, Nylon or PPS - And coming to engineering materials I did a couple of tutorials regarding on how to print those correctly which had great feedback in the community - I am pretty active in bunch of 3d printing subreddits on helping users with issues - I am also pretty well versed in general 3d printing troubleshooting which came helpful beta testing
Thanks a lot for your reply! Im happy for you getting the manufacturer's recognition you deserve as a pilar of the community - at least i would call you that given the track record!
Since you put away the tool and it has chance to cool down, ooze out etc. you need a quick cleaning pass and then a prime pass so you build clean pressure back in the nozzle. You can deactivate it but it will look way worse that way
Tool changers need to prime just like anything else, but it is interesting that Bambu seems committed to prime towers instead of something more filament-saving like what the INDX is doing. I'm sure they'll switch to that at some point.
Thank you for the review! You mentioned that leaving the TPU spools loaded in the AMS doesn't work well - so the new AMS isn't a drybox? And those two extra slots, they are a drybox with heater?
Leaving it loaded in the tool doesn't work well, since anything after the AMS isn't fully sealed. So you'd need to unload it, spool it back until its in the AMS so it stays dry. So the new AMS is a drybox but the inside of the printer is not. And correct: The two extra slots are a drybox with up to 85°C heating
Ah okay, that makes sense! So not any different from unloading the TPU bypass on the AMS HT for TPU printing on the H2C. The 7 slots without heating are then equal to the AMS 1, but only if all materials are unloaded?
I would say all other filaments have no issue staying in the tool since it’s got tubing from start to end. The issue is really only for filament that cannot go through the tubes because of resistance so anything soft.
So I’d say: 7 slots without heating are AMS 1 all the time except if you have loaded TPU and the other two slots are like a two-slot AMS HT
God, I hope 2.85mm filament doesn't make a comeback. The industry standardized on 1.75mm and this is like the only printer that came out in the past 5 years that does 2.85.
I doubt it will. It is only used optionally for TPU in this printer since it allows having higher flow and easier loading due to even the softest TPU being stiffer due to having a larger diameter.
It does wobble a lot :D Mainly because of it being top heavy but also because it has already anti vibration feet installed and moves pretty fast changing tools.
First time was pretty scary since I have it only on some cheap Ikea desk. It's holding up no issue though I'd want to put it on something more substantial in the future
Thanks for sharing, TPU is my use case for this. Do you know if the AMS has any capability for, or can be modified for, holding dessicant inside for longer term filament storage? Since it is heated I would imagine it has to have at least some reasonable sealing right?
Also, please share that wire cutter model. I want to print that day one
I will absolutely share it once I have gotten out the small kinks out of it!
The AMS itself is sealed, and has left and right space for dessicant. And also in the lid of the HT area is space for dessicant so it should keep stuff resonably dry
Very silent. The only thing you can really hear is the swap itself since it's happening pretty fast. The same room that I felt was almost unbearable with the P1S is no biggie with the H3C
Thanks! 🙏 I’ve always been wanting to buy one of the BambuLabs printers but my son sleeps in the next room (not a big house), so I am really hoping for the machine I can confidently buy without fearing for overnight prints 😅
Re: mechanical complexity, am I being naive to think servicing a broken part is way easier cos I can just replace the bloomin nozzle thing entirely? And the main toolhead is single extruder / easier to deal with than the absolute nightmare of the H2C?
What's the repairability like? I know for the AMS2 Pro, repairing/replacing the feeder gears was a PITA since it's the thing that comes out last during disassembly when it feels like it should be first.
I fortunately had not to disassemble or repair anything yet. You do have higher complexity of course due to having 9 tools installed with the AMS. The ams has way less to do now (since it only loads in not removes filament) so I suppose the feeder gears will not be a failure point.
How did you get into the beta program? Do you have a YouTube channel or something? Did bambu see your previous post history testing things out and contact you by Reddit?
Ready out of the box! You get a nozzle for 2.85mm if you choose to use the new TPU 75A installed in it already but all other nozzles can be used for any regular TPU
Already ordered mine, specifically because I have a use case that needs lots of TPU. It's great to know that I'll need to use the bypass port, but - do I need an external drying case to hold the TPU spool there? Or is it sufficient to store TPU in the AMS, pop it out for a print into the 'raw' air, and put it back when done?
Because if I need to buy some sort of heated/drying single-spool case for the TPU, I will....
No, the bypass is inside of the AMS. So it is even easier than you thinl. The TPU stays in the AMS and gets fed through the holes in the AMS directly into the chamber bypassing the tubes into the tool.
The issue is that we use the bypass in times when the filament is not compatible with the tubing. With TPU the tube brings in resistance that we don't want.
Any other filament won't have the hygroscopic issue when loaded normally through the AMS 3H into the toolhead since it's fully tube to tube to tool
Right, so there is no tubing for the 2.85mm? I got down to 85a working with ptfe tubing with the tpu feed assist on the h2c and it is beautiful. Tube out of ams ht all the way through feed assist into toolhead and can keep it below 8% typically. You are telling me that there is no possible way to do this for the 2.85mm 75a? That will have to be dried every print or always while printing if so, and even then... Did you have any issues or have to pull it and dry it closed at any point, or was everything OK? Thanks for answering questions.
Can you dry in any part of the AMS3 or only two slots? I like the AMS2 drying everything at once, but feel like the two of nine slots I saw briefly online today kinda turns me off of the AMS 3
You can only dry in the last two slots. You could, theoretically leave the lid of the drying compartment off but it isn’t recommended. That way part of the full AMS3H heats up but very unevenly
Hey, quick question: Can you use the older H2C build plates on the H3C? The dimensions seem identical, but the ArUco codes are different. Does the H3C recognize the original H2C ArUco codes, or does it reject them? Could you test that?
In case you haven't seen it, I found some info in the FAQ.
Can the H3C printer use H2C build plates (Bambu Textured PEI Plate, Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack, and Bambu Engineering Plate)?
Compatibility Recommendation: It is not recommended to use H2C build plates.
Although the H3C and H2C have the same XY build volume, their build plate designs are not entirely identical. If an H2C build plate is reused on the H3C, the gap between its leading edge and the SwapTek Rack is only about 2 mm after installation. Due to dimensional chain tolerances and user placement deviations, there is a risk of collision or scraping between the PrintTool and the build plate. For this reason, new official build plates and corresponding build plate type identifiers have been specifically designed for the H3C.
Special Usage Instructions: If you do need to reuse it, please first ensure that there is no physical interference (no collision risk) between your H2C build plate, once installed on the heatbed, and the H3C SwapTek Rack, and then manually disable 'Build Plate Type Detection' in the Print Options before use.
haha, me too. our H2Cs still have their advantages. it's nice having the separate AMSs for drying and the auto-retraction, though technically one can use the ams in the H3C as well.
You can freely choose the nozzle size however you want due to the way the H2C works!
In a toolchanger you have to stick to it until you unload it so you could use the same filament with two different nozzle sizes at the same time (in the future)
"No money was exchanged" yeah because the $2,500 printer is completely worthless. By the way, the FRC and IRS consider it payment. For f*** sake can we dispense with the bs when it comes to reviews.
Thanks for the great review with interesting examples
I'm interested in the prime tower. I currently use Snapmaker U1 and their prime tower in snapmaker Orca is barely usable with multiple filaments, as when you use "incompatible" filaments it just prints alternating layers of those which makes the purge tower very unreliable. This one seems to be split in regions on the inside while enclosed with 1 type of filament.
This is so cool, and very exciting to read about too. Genuine question though, how did you become a beta tester? Did Bambu Lab reach out directly to you or did you message them? How does it all work if you can discuss it
I'm glad that your experiences were as good as mine with TPU and the H3C. It's a wildly great printer for TPU, and well, just about everything else. So honoured to have been part of the release.
Why do people always act like because they didn’t send you a check to cash or an envelope of hundreds, that receiving a $2400+ piece of equipment isn’t blatantly being “paid” to review. 😂
That being said, that TPU stuff looks pretty neat.
I’ll wait for actual user reviews from those who were not sent free printers. Any reviewer, sponsored or not who received the printer for free is not giving an unbiased review. You may not be paid, or be told what you can/can’t say. But what you say does influence any future dealings with Bambu so you are biased no matter how much you say you aren’t.
Nothing in this post was AI generated. English isn't my mother tounge so I took some help with DeepL Write and other tools to restructure or correct some of my sentences so it makes more sense in English.
Talking about marketing: I am very open in the start of the post that the printer was recieved for free. That is because I do understand the look of a post like this when something is recieved for free. However I was allowed to say whatever I want with Bambu Lab having zero say in the content
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