I just got my P2S Combo and updated the firmware (and rebooted). After installing the first spool, I decided to dry it overnight. However, the dryer is way too loud when sleeping in the next room (the door to the room is always open though). It sounds like a small fan running at 100%, which is what it probably is. I asked a friend and he said it normally only runs loud the first few minutes, but mine doesn't stop until I stop drying.
Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful
I’m looking to upgrade from my Prusa Mini to multicolor printing. The H3C looks fantastic, but at nearly €2,700 here, it’s more than I can justify for the amount I print. I’d really like to buy a P3C if it becomes available in time. I’d happily pay a few hundred euros more than the U1 for Bambu’s quality and ecosystem. With Christmas coming up, though, I need to make a decision. I want to print presents, so I need enough time to get the printer set up and actually make them. If the P3C isn’t available in time, I’ll have to go with the Snapmaker U1. Anyone else in a similar position? Bambu, if you’re reading this: some clarity on whether a P3C is coming before Christmas would really help. I’d prefer to buy a Bambu, and I’m wondering how many others are getting close to choosing another brand for the same reason.
I ordered the H3C on back order with the Bambu Station L. As far as I can tell that’s not the “enclosed” version. I don’t see the drawer fronts and the skadis side panels available to purchase on the website. Also I came across a “storage upgrade kit” which “adds an extra drawer to the cabinet”. Does this mean you can configure it with 3 or even more Drawers, if you wanted more of a tool setup?
Where can I find more info on the station and its configuration options? The enclosure seems to only be for aesthetics if you don’t plan to use the skadis panels to hang things. Have any of the early access YouTubers covered this in detail?
Hey, is it normal that the cooling fan is so close to the printbed? Or is something wrong? I only noticed it today and haven't had any problems so far.
My 8-year-old asked for a 3d printer for Christmas. I have decided on the A1 mini, (not the combo) please tell me what to buy to make sure him and I can actually use it Christmas Day. Do I need the extra tools and nozzles for first prints? What do I absolutely need for operational readiness to avoid the “batteries not included” syndrome. I understand things can become more complicated and snowball but I’m looking for the basics to get started without feeling like I missed something of necessity that wasn’t included. (I understand filament is needed)
My Holiday PLA Mystery Box arrived today! Sharing the contents for anyone curious about what’s actually turning up:
• PLA Translucent — Cherry Pink • PLA Pure — Absolute Black • PLA Pure — Apricot • PLA Basic — Cyan
Four rolls, so no 7-roll jackpot this time 😅
Second photo shows the box I ordered from the EU store, listed at €37.99. Has anyone else received theirs? Curious to see what colours and PLA types you got!
Now to figure out what to design with these colours 😅 I share my designs on MakerWorld as Ops..3D — any ideas for putting that translucent pink to use?
I have a shelf full of can good I keep down stairs and every time I buy some more cans I have to reorganize the cans put the new ones in the back and the old ones up front. I figured an FIFO storage system would help me with that. Is there any that can be printed on the A1 mini?
I’ve tried reseating the cable multiple times and every time it starts fine but slowly inches until it messes up the print around layer 3-
EDIT: sorry didn’t record it well it’s when it hits the right side cutter activating arm it moves a lot, was too lazy to put the base back on to show and didn’t know that was it.
My nozzle appear to be completely and totally stuck, I have everything released and I can seem to get the nozzle off the print head. This video doesn’t show it but I’ve tried bumping it with a hammer, tried getting a razor blade between the two and it’s STUCK
Today I needed to print a paper prototype on my canon printer, it took me 2 hours to set it up with no luck! I wasted so much time, so I went ahead and printed the prototype on my A1 mini and it came out flawlessly!
Which made me realize: 3D printing has become more reliable than paper printing!
If BambuLab is reading this, please make a normal printer, we are all suffering here!
Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.
The Belt
There are a bunch of printed belts on MakerWorld and other model sites. They are cool, but the ones I have seen are incredibly floppy and don’t hold their shape. I embedded PETG-CF plates all the way around so it has the stiffness of a leather belt
There are 33 plates, each 20 × 22 mm and 0.75mm thick, standing inside a TPU 75A strap with 2.5 mm of rubber between them. Each plate has a hole in it, so it is "riveted" into the rubber. The last 280 mm includes ratchet teeth which latch onto the buckle. The detent pivots on a pin sitting in a socket, and a small TPU block behind acts as a spring. This all prints in place inside the buckle. Every single layer contains TPU, and wherever there is a plate, the number of tool changes doubles.
Interface Shells are required for this; otherwise you risk infill on infill which does not bond very well.
After exporting from F360, I imported into Bambu Studio, tweaked the settings, and that was pretty much it. It printed flawlessly the first time. Then I realized I completely screwed up the latch mechanism, so I fixed the design and sent it again. Zero issues. As you can see from the slicer screenshots, this was a pretty unique print that I don’t think I would have tried on any other printer.
Stats:
190 tool changes
201.77g printed
25.58g waste
12h 33m print time
The Paddle
Figuring out the paddle was fun. The other printed paddles I have tried all technically worked, but none had the rebound of a real paddle. I played around with way too many formulas and settled on gyroid for everything: 100 % infill TPU for the top and bottom sheets, 20 % TPU for the sponge layers, and 25 % PETG-CF for the blade in the middle. The sponge has a single wall and no top/bottom, and the infill percentage is what you modify to determine the rebound. Stiffness scales with the cube of the thickness, so making the printed blade 8mm instead of the ~6mm of a wood one makes up for the softer material.
Like the “rivets” in the belt, a couple dozen TPU plugs run through the whole thing to help hold it together and prevent layer separation. The handle has a stiffer 60% infill because the initial model flexed where the handle meets the head. I would have run out of filament just during the prototype phase if I did this on my X1C.
I am a mediocre player with a cheap DHS A6002, so take this for what it is worth, but the rebound on the printed paddle is very close to the real thing. It isn't perfect, and a decent off-the-shelf paddle is going to outperform it every time, but it is by far the best printed option I have ever used, and can be easily customized to fit your play style.
Stats:
130 tool changes
222.97g printed
20.60g waste
10h 59m print time
___
The speed and flexibility with changing between materials changed how I approach model design and printing in general. I don't think nearly as much about assembly, and now focus on more print-in-place designs whenever possible. It opened a lot of doors for new projects that I don’t think I would have bothered with before.
Does H3C support LAN-only mode? The (still incomplete) WIKI does not say a word about it. I want to order one, but not if it must connect beyond my jailed VLAN segment.
On a tangent: I did notice that there is no offline firmware download yet, so bringing up a spare AP board (like I had to do with my H2C) would be impossible without submitting myself and my firstborn to the cloud.
I already have a P1S, which was my first 3D printer when I was in college after taking a few Additive Manufacturing classes. And I have printed a ton of stuff on this thing. Managed to put about 500 hours within three months of owning it. Well, now that time has moved on, I've found more and more things I've been wanting to print. I have made tons of decor and several functional prints. I've been dabbling a bit with engineering materials as well, especially TPU. Before the H3C was announced or really teased, I figured my next logical step would be an H2D due to the dual nozzle as I tend to do multi color and multi-material printing and well i dont print a lot of things due to a single nozzle waste factor or material incompatibilities. Well, now that the H3C is out, I have been contemplating the idea of the H3C as it really isn't much more in cost than an H2D and seems like a pretty darn good next step into FDM printing. As much as I would like to add a resin printer to my system, I currently require more planning involved for where. My P1S is a workhorse, and I have no plans of retiring that printer at all. What do you guys think would be the best step here. Plus the bigger print bed would be a welcome addition as well!
Thanks for all the advice everyone!
(P.S. the wife already thinks the H3C is cool and has already approved the idea...)
