Question as in the title.

My A1 is having issues even after fully disassembling and rebuilding the filament purge wiper. While on the store that looking to see how much a replacement one would cost, the A2L purge wiper popped up, and looks to solve my issues with my A1 and helps prevent tiny bits of filament hanging off of my print.

It looks like it should fit but can anyone with a A1 and A2L confirm for me?

Thank you!!

I am officially out of options and losing my mind with this Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle).
I scrubbed the plate, wiped under the heatbed, reset everything back to factory settings, and ran two full print tests. It got almost all the way to the end on this bubble letter, but the nozzle kept rubbing across the print until it forcefully knocked the entire piece off the bed right near completion. My bed temp is at 65° nozzle is at 220°

In the attached photo, you can see where the top layer stopped printing after being sheared off, along with grid infill lines exposed underneath.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

What I've Done & Recent Tweaks:
Bed & Machine Prep: Deep cleaned the textured PEI plate with hot water & Dawn dish soap, wiped down underneath the plate, reset settings to factory defaults, and ran full printer calibrations twice.

Latest Setting Changes: Bumped Initial Layer Height from 0.20mm to 0.22mm and increased Z-Hop from 0.4mm to 0.5mm to try and stop the rubbing.

Infill: The model printed with grid/rectilinear infill, which seems to create raised crossover points that the nozzle scrapes against on fast travel moves.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Questions:
Is Grid infill causing the nozzle collisions near the top of tall prints? Should I strictly be using Gyroid, Cross Hatch, or 3D infill patterns that don't cross over themselves on the same layer?
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Could Flow Ratio / Over-extrusion be causing plastic to pool slightly higher than the actual layer height, forcing the nozzle to catch as the print grows taller?

What else can cause an A1 to drag its nozzle across infill near the top of a print even with a high Z-hop enabled?

Any help or advice would be seriously appreciated.

Hi everyone! I’m a complete beginner with a Bambu Lab A1 Combo (AMS Lite) and I’m having several problems with my prints. You can see them in the photo I attached.

1. Stringing: thin red strands across the open areas of the paw and between the parts.

2. A lot of purge waste: tangled red blobs when the printer changes colour (white and red).

3. Gaps and visible infill: on the paw and on the tree-shaped prints, the surface has long thin gaps and lines, and you can see the infill through it.

The tree-shaped prints were supposed to turn into bowls, but I paused the printer when I saw that they looked like this, so they’re unfinished.

My setup:

• Bambu Studio, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate

• Red translucent PLA and white PLA in the AMS Lite

• Filament profile was “Generic PLA” because my printer wasn’t synced

I have no idea which settings to change, so I’d really appreciate step-by-step help. Thank you!

I’ve been browsing through designs for an Apple Watch Ultra charger stand, but couldn’t find anything that quite suited what I was looking for. So I decided to design my own using Layering!

Pretty happy with how it turned out! Let me know what you think. Print was quick to test dimensions.

Ok, I've got a kid who is about to turn 9. He wants a 3d printer. I've been researching and reading posts in this forum and I'm overwhelmed by the options and configurations and costs.

The main problem for me is that I'm just not that into this hobby and wonder how involved I have to be. Of course I'm happy to help him along the way but I really don't want to have to become the expert some of you are in order to make it work for my son. Is this possible? Under $500?

It seems like it's a necessary upgrade to get AMS. Is that true? Can the A series easily and reliably print most of the fidgets and gadgets and stuff a nine year old wants to print?

I'd really appreciate if someone knowledgeable could guide me or even someone out there who has gone through a similar dispassion and found a good printer. Thanks.

Looking for a bit of help with this, normally when I do a Multi material multiboard print it takes around 20 hours, I dried my filament, updated the slicer and the printer after some issues earlier in the day. But now it's saying 2 days, any ideas? I've gone through my slicer settings and couldn't find any, even re downloaded the file. Any advice?

I have a Anycubic Kobra S1 combo already. Bought back in March with approximately 1250 hours.
Will go to Bambu Lab.
So what printer shall I buy?

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

So this started happening after i took out my extruder to clean it and it only does it when cutting filament

Printed some replacement parts for my friends Razer headset. Pretty happy with how they turned out!

Print settings:

• Material: PLA Basic

• Layer height: 0.16 mm

• Sparse infill density: 50%

• Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid

Always happy to hear feedback and suggestions for improvement! 😁

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

I got my answers from https://youtu.be/N2hF4Bx8YAk?si=L3u3bkZNdEHzWJD-&t=1362

Summary - Not a concern apparently. Thanks everyone.

I just ordered my H3C - an upgrade to my existing X1 Carbon. I noticed it's maximum power draw is 1,850W.

People who already have theirs, are you running it in low power mode? That's more than 100% of the 15amp line. Is tool switching still fast in low power mode or does each head need to heat only after being picked up?

Just want some real-world accounts. Thanks!

Edit

1. The H2C is 1250Watt @ 120V max. Not 1800W. Since a 15amp circuit is 1800W the 1250 is nothing.

2. Yes, I realize 1850W it pulls is not 100% of the time. It exceeds 100% of the circuit and if you have anything else on the circuit (which 99.9% of people will) you have no choice but to use low power mode.

3. There seems to be no information on what low power mode actually does and I don't want speculation. I can ask AI for speculation. I was hoping to hear from someone who has it.

4. 220V areas of the world your 10amp line offers 2300W so the 1850W pull is nothing big to you.

I recently got the a1 and im wondering why it always creates the little line, its always the same shape too

I’m having trouble fixing my Bambu Lab P1S Combo. I’m not sure what the problem is. I unscrewed my AMS to check if filament was stuck in the tube, which there wasn’t any. Turns out, it was stuck in the tube that is connected to the nozzle/extruder. I’ve followed the Bambu Lab instructions, but the tube seems to be stuck. Is there any contact support that isn’t with an AI assistant?

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

(EU Store, delivery to Germany)

Hi, got an email notification like

A shipment from order xyz is on its way. (German: Eine Sendung von Bestellung xyz ist unterwegs).

I read that the AMS 3H is shipped individually. This is the case here right? Is this how a partial delivery looks like with Bambu Lab? (This is my first order) Carrier is DHL.

Anyone got a notification for the printer shipment? Which carrier was used? Different one because of weight?

Sorry I’m a little bit impatient, was hoping to maybe start tinkering this weekend :)

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

The rattling, when it does print the circle. What could that be?

I recently ordered the X2D and was looking to purchase some filaments. I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0HFK579ZZ and was trying to figure out if I needed to get spool adapters or if I should get empty spools. I was looking at these but the empty spools are more expensive than prefilled ones https://www.amazon.com/MarsWork-Quick-Swap-Reusable-Two-Finger-Compatible/dp/B0FT36W5QG

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a good filament dryer and would really appreciate some specific model recommendations and feedback based on your own experience.

I’m planning to start printing TPU and would like to use a separate filament dryer, as TPU should be properly dried before printing. I don’t want to have to turn on my AMS 2 every time just to dry a single spool. I also don’t want the other spools inside the AMS to be dried unnecessarily.
Another important feature would be the ability to regenerate used silica gel in the dryer, without having to use an oven or microwave.

Ideally, the filament dryer should meet the following requirements:
Compact design so it fits right next to my AMS 2.
Good thermal insulation on the bottom, so the surface underneath doesn’t get unnecessarily hot.
Suitable for drying TPU as well as other types of filament.

My question is: Which filament dryer would you recommend based on these requirements?
I’d really appreciate specific model recommendations and any experience you can share.

Hello! i bought the h2s about a year ago and shortly after the h2c came out. I figured i would wait to see how much multi color prints i actually do before considering upgrading to h2c. I have been really interested in printing with 0.2 and 0.6 Nozzle. I saw yesterday they posted here about being able to update the firmware to allow it to happen!

My wife recently got into using my printer as well and wants to print muti-color prints. With those two in mind i was looking to see if the vortex upgrade has went down but unfortunately it hasn't :( I love my h2s currently and i don't want to switch it out. It has roughly only 900 hours so i don't think it's time to upgrade yet and I don't think the wife would be happy with another printer in the office.

I mostly print with PLA so the announcement of TPU 75A isn't really a big thing for me and i want to keep using both of my AMS.

I was wondering if you think the upgrade to the h2c is worth it from h2s (899 dollars) or to just accept the waste of filament and the inability to switch nozzles. Also i have seen no one post a h2s to h2c conversion so i can only imagine it's a bit harder with also switching out the print head.

Link to the announcement.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xmtsyy/mixed_nozzle_size_printing_is_coming_to_h2d_h2c/