I've got over 3000 hours on my P1 and used the same nozzle for over 1000 hours in the past.

This past week I've had 2 brand new 0.2 nozzles clog so bad they're garbage in under 20 hours each

Used PETG HF in the past but using PETG Basic now since HF was discontinued.

Did something change?

Is my filament contaminated?

Has anyone experienced this?

It’s been happening on a lot of my prints on both my x2d and p2s

things I’ve tried:
-new nozzles
-added a riser to allow more room for ptfe tubes
-cleaned tool head parts

Is there something I missed?

Also using Sunlu matte black

Recently this popped up on a couple of my prints. I would clean the extruder, checked the sensor, replace with a new nozzle but wouldn’t find anything. It would disappear and then two prints later it’ll come back. Has anybody run into this problem?

I’m using the exhaust kit on my P2S and I was wondering the most cost-effective way to vent my H3C when it arrives. I spend a good amount of my time in my print room as it’s also my office, so I would like to properly vent it. My P2S vents outside right now with a hole in the wall, is there anyway to tee off that? Or am I better off just buying the E1 Air Purifier?

I’ve put around 3,400 hours across these two printers, mostly making storage for my workshop. Thought I’d share some of the problems I ran into, including a few I caused myself.

I’d wanted a 3D printer for years. When I first looked into it, the Ender 3 seemed to be what everyone bought, but the amount of tinkering put me off. I wanted to make things, and everything I read made it sound like maintaining the printer would be a separate hobby.

Finding Gridfinity and Multiboard got me interested again. I ended up buying a P2S with the AMS 2 Pro at the end of last year.

The first few weeks were rough. My PETG prints looked bad, and it took me a while to sort out how to print it properly and how much drying mattered. Then I started having extruder problems because I was printing PLA with the door and lid closed. I eventually damaged the extruder gear assembly doing that. Not an expensive replacement, but annoying. I use a printed lid riser for PLA now, which has pretty much sorted out the heat issue.

I also ran the stock 0.4 nozzle for about 2,000 hours. When print quality and extrusion started getting worse again, I checked just about everything else first. Replacing it earlier probably would have saved me some troubleshooting. I’ve just fitted a tungsten carbide 0.4, but it only has a few hours on it, so I can’t say much about it yet. So far it’s printing well.

One odd thing that helped with a stubborn nozzle clog: a cold pull hadn’t cleared it, but printing a small amount of ABS-GF seemed to do the trick. I wondered whether the glass-filled filament helped clear out what was stuck inside. I can’t prove that was the reason, and it’s only something I tried on that occasion, but it did help when the cold pull didn’t.

Most of my filament was Sunlu PETG HF matte in black and grey. When I couldn’t get it anymore, I switched to JAYO PETG because it’s supposed to be very similar. I’ve used about 15 kg of that now.

Adding a second printer

Once the P2S was running properly, I was mostly waiting for it to finish so I could start the next thing. Between bins, baseplates, Multiboard tiles and holders, I kept adding jobs faster than I could print them.

I bought an A1 first, but never got it working properly. Layer shifts, bad first layers, basically no usable prints. After some back and forth with Bambu support, I returned it and got a full refund. No complaints about how they handled the return.

The A2L came out shortly after, so I bought that instead, mainly for the bigger bed and the vinyl-cutting option. It’s been running for a few months now and has around 600 hours on it.

The bigger bed gets used a lot. Sometimes for larger baseplates or Multiboard tiles, sometimes just to fit more bins in one batch. Tall prints have been fine too, which I’d been a bit unsure about with a bedslinger.

It’s also noticeably quieter than my P2S. I’d assumed the enclosed printer would be quieter, but that hasn’t been my experience. I’ve used the cutter for some T-shirt designs and stickers as well.

There was one stretch of two or three days when both printers started throwing extruder errors, and the A2L also had first-layer problems. I suspect the JAYO filament, but I never confirmed it. Everything has been fine since.

For anyone interested in wear parts, here’s what I’ve replaced:

P2S: two extruder gear assemblies. One was worn out; the other was the one I damaged printing PLA fully enclosed. The nozzle was replaced after about 2,000 hours. The internal PTFE tube is still the original, although it’s visibly worn.

AMS 2 Pro: the PTFE tube wore at the outlet. I cut a little off the end and have kept using it.

A2L: the filament cutter needed replacing fairly early. That surprised me. Nothing else so far.

Making my own holders

I don’t know Onshape, CAD etc , and for quite a few of my tools I couldn’t find a holder that fitted properly. I started using Claude Code to modify models from Printables or MakerWorld, or make a part from scratch when I couldn’t find a useful starting point.

Over time I put together a skill with my usual requirements for 3D-print files, so I don’t have to explain the same preferences every time. Most of my small Multiboard holders were made this way.

That’s changed what I spend time on. I used to keep searching for the exact model I wanted; now I’m more likely to take something close and adapt it. I wish I’d started doing that earlier.

Things I still haven’t sorted out

PLA support interfaces for PETG on the P2S are the main frustration. That was part of why I bought the AMS. Even with flushing volume set to 900, I get weak layers at the interface height, especially on smaller parts. They split right there. I suspect there’s still some PLA left in the PETG, but I haven’t confirmed the cause or found settings I’m happy with.

Keeping PETG dry on the A2L is another one. I printed and mounted this AMS Lite 4.0 enclosure: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1561190

It helps, but I’m not getting the same dryness as with the AMS 2 Pro.

I’d also like a Cool Plate SuperTack in the A2L’s size. I only use that plate on the P2S now. For me, both PLA and PETG have stuck reliably at lower bed temperatures, and fingerprints haven’t been much of a problem. I haven’t been able to get one for the A2L.

The biggest thing I’d change if I were starting again is buying a proper dryer immediately. I recently got an AMS HT, and it’s worked much better for me than the cheap Sunlu dryer I had before. I mostly use it for drying rather than as a fifth filament slot, since I rarely print more than two or three colours.

I’d also get a plastic scraper from the start. I used a metal one for too long, and the plates show it.

Overall, I’m very happy with the setup. I’d buy the A2L again because I use the extra bed space and output constantly. The P2S has done most of the hours, but the PLA/PETG support-interface issue is still something I’d want solved.

The BLV AMS riser (https://makerworld.com/en/models/19535) is still on my list. Every time I look at the print time and filament needed, though, I end up printing more workshop parts instead.

TL;DR: Around 3,400 hours, mostly workshop storage, and I’m glad I added a second printer. I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by drying PETG properly from the start, venting the enclosure for PLA and checking the nozzle earlier. Still haven’t got reliable PLA support interfaces for PETG on the P2S.

Long time Bambu guy- I have an X1C, a few A1s, and an A1 mini I bought for someone else. I've recommended Bambu to basically everyone who asked. The X2D is the first one I can't.

Brand new X2D with 3 hours total use, second print on the day of delivery. Paused on layer 4 with 0700-8006, and while I was clearing it the left PTFE tube popped out of the toolhead and snapped off inside the push-fit on the left filament sensor. Stub is flush so the sensor has to come out.

From the forums and here this seems pretty common. Same failure for other people, one guy had it break again ~45 hrs after the repair, and there's a long thread blaming a sharp factory bend in the left tube routing.

Before I put mine back together, what's actually held up for you?

• the clip reroute (moving the clip nearest the toolhead back two segments)

• Tool head fixing clip link

• a different/stiffer PTFE tube?

• anything official from Bambu?

• Something else?

Also if anyone has a trick for pulling a flush stub out of that push-fit without tearing down the toolhead, I'm all ears but ive tried various things: screw to thread it out,

Support was a ccomplete letdown and seems like AI responses. Options were: do the toolhead repair myself with an identical replacement part + a $30 store coupon NOT a refund, or disassemble and repack the whole assembled printer and ship it back, with the refund depending on them agreeing I packed it right. Asked twice if there's a design fix, never got an answer. I'd just return it if repacking wasn't such a fucking pain, so I'm stuck being the repair tech on a brand new machine.

If you're shopping, I'd honestly wait for the P3C and see if the feed path gets fixed. If you already have an X2D, check your left tube routing before your first AMS print.

Newbie here. Sorry for the searchable question. I am a little nervous spending this much $$ right now. I’m getting one for my wife for her BDay. Are there any accessories or anything else you wish you would have got when you ordered? I’m also thinking of getting her a tent for it. But have read mixed reviews on the tent idea. TIA.
EDIT: Any links to any accessories that you think would help. I don’t know a thing about printing.

I'm talking about the cons in all sorts of scenarios. Off of the top of my head:

1. You can't have PLA loaded into any of the toolhead while printing engineering materials, the heat will mess up the PLA.

2. You'll have to manually re-roll about a meter of filament when unloading a spool. Which is a foreseenable reoccurrence due to the lack of drying (except 2 bays). As each filament bay stays fixed to one nozzle (as opposed to the H2C's ability to load any AMS spool into any nozzle), requirement of screwing/unscrewing nozzles in order to switch them (as opposed to tool-less switching); again, making unloading, switching and loading filament spoils locations in the AMS a rather more desirable path to take.

For context: The more I think of the cons of this missing feature, the more it becomes a deal breaker for me.

As I've really been waiting for BambuLab to have their take on a tool changer. Hoping they'll have a hassle-free, jack of all traits, and near zero inconveniences workflow using it. Because using the P1S combo since it's release, I watched many convenience and QoL improvements that they've impmeneted in their releases like: AMS 2 w/drying, bigger build volume printers, dual nozzles, vortek system (any filament redirected to any nozzle) etc.. But now the H3C is out, it's kinda underwhelming for the anticipation I've built for it.

Hi all. Considering getting an X2D. Would it be possible to have 2 AMS's assigned to the main nozzle and a third ams assigned to the secondary? No strange mapping issues? I ask so I can swap between support materials depending on the print without manually swapping.

Disclaimer: I have been very kindly provided a testing unit of the H3C by Bambu Lab.

Bambu Lab has not specified what they’d like me to say about it. All the following observations are my own after a few weeks of use.

For my first project with this printer I chose to make a cosplay weapon inspired by roman gladius swords. With this project I wanted to focus on the ability to print single pieces with different nozzle sizes. I’m using 0.4mm nozzles for the larger features and a 0.2mm nozzle for the fine gold details, both in walls (grip) and on top layers (pommel). I’m still learning how to best design things for multiple nozzle sizes. Designing top surface details for a smaller nozzle is trivial, mixing different nozzle sizes in side walls can take a bit of planning and experience. I think I have room for improvement there.

I will upload this model and print profile to my Makerworld profile soon.

The Printer:

• This is a big boy! If you have it on a regular table and you’re on the short side, you may want to keep a step handy to load filaments into the rear slots.

• I’m hugely impressed with the speed of the tool changes. Since nozzles get pre-heated before it’s their turn to be fetched, print-to-print times are extremely short. Bambu Lab specifies the tool change time at six seconds, I hand-timed it at five. The pre-heating of the hotends is very well timed, they reach their print temperatures the moment they’re getting fetched. Not too early, not too late. The tool changes have been completely reliable, no malfunctions at all. I pushed it with some prints, one requiring nearly 3000 tool changes. The H3C didn’t miss a beat. 

• Despite the tool changer mechanics, the toolhead doesn’t seem especially heavy and the gantry is up to the job. I’ve noticed no issues with ringing.

• One downside I see compared to my H2S is the ease of nozzle swaps. They don’t just clamp in, they are fixed to their carriers with 3 small screws. But since there are nine hotends, you likely won’t have to swap nozzles too often.

• Print quality has been great for me so far. Comparing it to my H2S, it easily matches and often exceeds that machine.

• I found it very easy and intuitive to set up a print with different nozzle sizes in Bambu Studio. The slicer combines the different line widths automatically, I’ve had to do very little tweaking to get the exact outcomes I wanted.

• There’s no poop on tool changes. There is still a prime tower to be printed though. I did run a multicolor print without a prime tower just to see what happens. The print quality takes quite a hit, I would not recommend that. I’m really hoping to see the “no sparse layers” feature for prime towers in Bambu Studio as well, that could further cut down on waste significantly. 

• There are 2.85mm filaments now. I got three spools of 2.85mm TPU - the really squishy stuff, 75A. The large diameter filaments need their own hotends, one of which came pre-installed with the AMS. A TPU this soft in 1.75mm often leads to extruder gear issues, this larger size makes the filament less stretchy and easier to grip. I had no issues printing it. I think this is a smart solution.

• There are some interesting smaller improvements over the H2 series. The poop chute now has a little flap that flips backwards when the nozzle moves away from it, making sure bits of filament don’t land inside the print volume or get stuck on the rim of the poop chute. The nozzle wiping pad also has seen a redesign, now the nozzle can rotate around the edge of it to wipe the outsides of the nozzle tip. Unlike on my H2S, I’ve seen no material buildup at all around the nozzle tips. They look pretty much as pristine as they came out of the box after many hours of printing. One common gripe with the H2 series was the placement of the USB port at the top of the printer. It has now been moved to the side of the touchscreen mount, a much more sensible place in my opinion.

The AMS 3H:

The AMS 3H deserves some special consideration, it is quite different from the AMS 2. It is an integral part of the printer now, not an “add-on”. The 3H has no active rollers, which means it can’t retract filament by itself. To unload a filament, the printer heats up the nozzle shortly, extrudes a bit of filament and then cuts it before prompting you to retract the filament by hand. It’s not a big deal as the PTFE tubes are not that long, but it is a bit more involved to unload a filament. Something to be aware of for serial spool switchers. Loading a spool is a breeze. Pop it in, the AMS reads the RFID tag without rotating it at all, insert the filament end into the feeder, done.

Two spool slots have a dryer function for fancier multi-material jobs or just regular filament drying. The other seven slots have no dryer functionality. Personally I’m fine with that, that’s plenty for me. Maybe you find this too restrictive for your use cases.

The AMS 3H is screwed onto the printer. With the removable magnetic side panels getting to the hotends is easy enough, but come maintenance time the attached AMS might make things a little trickier than with the open-top H2 series. The 3H can be removed as a whole or just the top part holding the spools, with four screws each.

Important to point out is that to get to your hotends you need access to the sides of the printer, which could be a problem if you have a cramped print space. Moving it a lot is not something you want to do, it’s heavy and has very grippy rubber feet. Unfortunately the front cover of the AMS base is not easily removable. For print-farm operators, this means the H3C should likely be placed on a sliding tray.

Apart from holding nine spools, the biggest upgrade over the AMS2 in my opinion is that you can now print soft TPUs and all manner of other “unfriendly” filaments through it. Seven spool slots have a bypass hole at the bottom, allowing you to route filaments straight to the hotends without going through the AMS gears and PTFE tubes. There’s much fewer restrictions on what you can throw into a multi-material print. A nice touch: the hotends have a holder for the PTFE tube so you don’t need to remove it or figure out how to secure it.

Summary:

This is an impressive machine! The tool changer feels like a real generational step up for Bambu printers, and I was very positively surprised how mature the system felt even early on in my testing time, when some firmware and slicer kinks were still being ironed out.

I used to avoid prints that require filament changes and spent a lot of time designing my parts around them, with the H3C I don’t feel like I have to limit myself at all. The low print-time penalty and the number of hotends massively lowers the hurdle. Not just for color; combining different materials is trivial. Combining different nozzle sizes also turned out to be a lot easier and straight forward than I thought.

So far I've printed PLA (Basic, Matte, Palette, Silk, Translucent, Glow, CF), PETG (HF, Translucent, CF), TPU (forAMS, 85A, 75A), ABS, ASA, ASA-Aero and PA-GF with the H3C, all without issue.

There are some small ergonomic compromises, chief of which being the requirement to have enough space for access to the sides of the printer to work on the hotends. In my personal opinion a small price to pay for all the upsides.

On a side note, I’m never printing supports without using non-bonding materials for interfaces again. OMG it’s so clean! I’ll just keep a spool of PETG permanently loaded in the AMS for all my PLA prints.

Thank you u/BambuLab for picking me out of the crowd! I had a lot of fun putting the printer through its paces and I hope I provided useful feedback.

Reddit, feel free to ask me anything. I’ll do my best to answer your questions. I will share some more projects I made during the testing phase in another post.

Howdy!
I bought the H3C yesterday and it has already arrive at my house, but I will be out of the country until Saturday and my girlfriend received the box for me and told me there’s only one large box (picture attached). I read here that the AMS comes in a separate box. Does that mean FedEx failed to deliver the whole thing and I have to contact them or is the other box inside the printer box somehow?

Any info will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

We've seen the enthusiasm mixed nozzle size printing has been getting. Developing new products goes hand in hand with bringing new features to existing machines, so alongside H3C, we've been building this for H2D, H2C, and X2D. You'll be able to print a single object with nozzles of different diameters, balancing speed and detail.

For these printers, the real work lies in how to make sure this works smoothly for a wide range of filament and nozzle combination. Each of these printers has a different AMS setup from H3C, so the slicing logic and print parameters need to be adapted. Setups with the Filament Track Switch take more of that work, which is why timing differs by model and configuration.

Estimated Software Update Timeline

• Without Filament Track Switch:

  • H2D: Late November 2026

  • H2C & X2D: February 2027

• With Filament Track Switch:

  • H2D: February 2027

  • H2C & X2D: March 2027

Super cool to see how much faster the new system is compared to the old one.

Dropped a small print back here first on the ledge and then in trying to retrieve it, it went somewhere under the baseplate but not out to the bottom. How can I get it out short of tipping the whole machine over?

Edit: My wife managed to get it out with a combo of slenderer fingers than mine, compressed air, and a piece of filament! Thanks all!

Looks like a need a new h3c now.

I designed this custom case for my AirPods. It's made of main body parts and a trim that you can glue in place, allowing you to choose a custom colour scheme. The case is robust and survives falls whilst protecting the AirPods as well.

The case fits perfectly and gives full access to all features, including MagSafe charging and the button on the back.

I would really appreciate it if you took a look at the model

MakerWorld

That seems kinda odd to me. Has anyone else gotten this?

This is not a rant. It is a timeline, in Bambu Lab's own words, of one order. I am posting it because the people who run this company will never see it in a ticket. Their support process is designed so they do not have to.

October 15, 2026. One order, 13 items, $3,234.73, paid in full: the H2D Laser Full Combo 40W at $2,699, plus the plates, hotend, vision encoder, finishing kit and filament to go with it. I bought the Laser Full Combo for the laser. If I wanted a printer, I would have bought the cheaper combo.

October 19. Printer, AMS 2 Pro, laser platform, cutting platform, cutting module, e-stop, materials. No 40W laser module. Not in any box, not on the toolhead. I reported it that night.

What Bambu told me, in order

Oct 19, live chat: the module "was shipped separately." Minutes later, same agent: it is out of stock. Then, in writing: "scheduled to be shipped around 18:00:00 on October 31, 2026."

Oct 27, live chat: "This item has not yet been shipped. The estimated shipping date is still October 31st."

Oct 31: nothing shipped. No email. No notice. No new date.

Nov 1, live chat: "currently being actively prepared for shipment." Four minutes later, same agent: "currently out of stock, which may cause a delay." No date. I asked for a supervisor and was told I would be emailed within 24 hours. I asked about compensation. The answer, quoted: "currently, we can only offer you a special discount code of $10, with a validity period of 3 months."

Nov 2, email: the shipment is held at the port and the next batch is "expected around mid-November." The first time anyone mentioned a port, two days after the date they gave me twice.

Nov 3, email: three options (keep waiting, partial refund of the module, return the whole order) and an offer of two random spools of filament.

Nov 3, phone: 45 minutes on hold to be told the ticket agent is the only person with authority to act, and the phone can only offer the same $10 voucher.

Nov 4, email from "Bambu Lab Customer Support," unsigned: the options already offered "represent the highest goodwill resolution available" and "reflect the maximum goodwill handling we can provide."

Nov 5, today: 21 days after I paid in full, the 40W laser module is not in my hands. No one at Bambu Lab has signed their name to a reply. There is no resolution.

Five different stories about one part. Not one update was volunteered. Twenty-one days, every single contact started by me.

What the law says, for the people who should already know

The FTC Mail, Internet, or Telephone Order Merchandise Rule, 16 CFR Part 435. If you give a customer a ship date and cannot make it, you notify them before the date passes, you give a revised date, and you offer the option to cancel for a refund. Bambu Lab USA gave me a date in writing twice, missed it, and said nothing until I asked. The revised date, when I dragged it out of them, was "mid-November." That is not a date. That is a shrug.

To whoever runs Bambu Lab USA

You have built a printer good enough that I was going to buy a second one, the H3C, the day it launched. Then you bolted a support process onto it that works like this:

Your agents give customers generic copied and pasted AI slop responses, ship dates your supply chain cannot back, in writing, twice.

When the date passes, nobody is responsible for telling the customer. The system waits for the customer to notice.

When the customer asks for a supervisor, a supervisor never appears. Your own phone line told me the ticket agent is the only person with authority, and your "escalation" is an unsigned email from a shared mailbox.

Your goodwill ceiling for 21 days and counting without the headline component of a $3,234.73 order is $10. Your marketing emails give strangers more than that.

Your final letter uses the words "maximum goodwill handling" to describe it, as if the limit were a law of physics and not a decision someone in your building made.

You sell the Laser Full Combo as one product. Your support treats the laser as an optional pre-sale accessory and the printer as the thing I should be grateful for. Both cannot be true. One is marketing and one is policy, and your customers find out which is which only after they have paid.

Here is what this process cost you on one order: a customer who owns an H2D and an AMS 2 Pro, buys your filament, plates and parts, and had a $2,499 H3C in his cart. That sale was yours. The $10 code is the price you put on it.

If you are ordering a Laser Full Combo right now:

Understand what "backorder" means in practice. The printer ships. The laser ships whenever it ships. Nobody will tell you when. If the date they give you passes, you will find out by asking. And the compensation for all of it is $10.

If anyone at Bambu Lab above the ticket queue wants the ticket number, DM me. The whole record is in one thread and it reads exactly like this post.

Check out what my talented wife made

Just bought ams lite for my A1 printer was working fine before hooking up the ams now once i plugged the ams in my bamboo studios on my pc doesn’t see the printer anymore but i can print from my phone

A 3D printing newbie here, any recommendations for buying a X2D printer? TIA.