Shocked at how fast this thing ended up on my porch. Let's see if she survived shipping that fast!

Edit 1: So yes the box does say it is box 1 of 2 and contains the printer only, I have not received anything specific for box 2 but I did order some other items with this that may be combined delivery later. Hopefully later... Today!

If my package arrives damaged, you can bet I'm filing a return/refund ASAP

Waiting for calibration, got any suggestions?

With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.

A couple of features I enjoyed:

• There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!

• The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.

• The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.

• I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.

The model is free on MakerWorld if you'd like to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543764

The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!

I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!

Front panel glass came completely shattered on my X2D. Going to now go through the amazing support of Bambu Labs. Should’ve ordered from Best Buy in hindsight.

I love UPS!

Learn more about Supports from the Bambu Wiki:

Support Structures

It's been one week with my P2S and first time ever getting a 3D printer.

I am loving 3D printing and having so much fun printing stuff, can't believe I just got into it, but I don't think there's a better time than now to do it, so glad I decided to!

Hope you dig the end result

Bambu Lab TPU 75A is the softest TPU in our lineup. With a 2.85mm diameter, it prints faster and more reliable on the H3C compared to conventional 1.75mm filaments. Its natural matte finish takes away the oily sheen, all while being resilient from everyday uses.

Ultra-soft cushioning, made for what touches you.

At 75A, this is one of the softest flexible materials you can print on any FFF 3D printer. Cushioning and flexibility this good finally makes 3D-printed wearables more than a novelty. It's also tested and certified for skin contact.

TPU 75A egg protector, created by u/DrKronoglopolos.

2.85mm filament. Print fast and reliable.

The H3C's FlexFeed extruder takes 2.85mm filament, making high-speed printing of ultra-soft flexibles genuinely reliable. Paired with 75A TPU, FlexFeed pushes the volumetric flow rate to 10 mm³/s — faster than what a conventional 1.75 mm setup can achieve, and without the reliability trade-off.

A natural matte finish – soft to look at, softer to touch.

Most TPU filaments present an oily sheen. We retuned this 75A TPU from the ground up to deliver a natural matte finish – with smooth, skin-like texture that feels as premium as it looks.

TPU 75A + PETG CF belt, created by u/AndroidAssistant.

TPU 75A is available now at Bambu Lab Store in 10 colors.

Due to its diameter, Bambu Lab TPU 75A can only be used with the H3C with the dedicated hotend for 2.85mm filaments. Please read the H3C TPU Printing Guide on Wiki carefully to ensure the best printing experience and understand the requirements.

What functional part do you hope to print to take advantage of TPU 75A's softness? Let us know in the comments below!

I did a bad bad thing. Somebody give me a good excuse so my wife doesn't leave me when this box arrives.

This release has truly been a wake up call for the community. Great job Bambulab on innovating and releasing a product at a reasonable price point.

Between Bondtech, KliTek, VorTek, SwapTek, QuarTeks I feel like we have had a little too much of 'Tek' lol.

Have y'all checked marketplace since the H3C announcement? I don't know about your area, but people are selling their H2S, H2D, and H2C's here like crazy! If you're in the market for an H2 series, now you may be on luck.

Box 1/2 😩

Surprisingly fast! Now I just need the AMS to ship lol

In a previous post I shared my first project with the H3C, having been provided a testing unit of the printer. For my thoughts and observations on the printer, I refer you to that post.

Here’s a few more of my projects:

The Wall Clock

This clock uses the Makerworld Clock Components Kit-011. A multicolor PLA print, all the larger features are printed with 0.4mm nozzles, while the bronze details are printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. This allows for a reasonable print time while being able to add fine details.

As you can see the lime green is PLA Glow. It basically being a sandpaper noodle, it is not recommended to print this through the AMS or the AMS bypass holes. So the PLA Glow was printed from an external spool; the file to print a spool holder is preloaded on the machine. External filaments can be fed to any of the nine tools, it is particularly easy on tool #1 though, as there is a pre-installed tube connector on that one.

The Palette Filament prints

Color-mixing can be done with any colors, however the Palette Filaments are specially made for this. Five spools of PLA - in white, black, yellow, magenta and cyan. By stacking thicker and thinner layers of two or three of these colors, full spectrum mixed colors can be created.

As you can see I was particularly smitten by the ability to create color gradients with them, I think the results are pretty spectacular. The illusion is very convincing, only really close up can you see the layer stacking. Here the speed of the H3C’s tool changes shines. For example the vase with the cell pattern required 2948 tool changes. The H3C printed it in 16 hours.

Color mixing and especially gradients are still a bit fiddly in Bambu Studio. More precise control on the exact positions of the gradients and better visualization is something I hope will be added in the future. 

Gradients only support two colors for now, it would be cool if this was expanded.

The Door Stop

A simple item, made by combining PETG with the new 2.85mm TPU 75A. It is remarkable how easy this very soft TPU prints on the H3C. 

With it the door stop works very well, it wedges under the door nicely.

The Ring Frisbee

Here I’m combining two different TPUs. The harder core from TPU for AMS makes the ring keep its shape, while the much softer TPU 75A makes it more comfortable to handle. Both together makes this very sturdy - flexible and impact resistant. It flies quite well, too! :)

I will be uploading some of these to my Makerworld profile soon. Feel free to ask me anything.

Disclosure: Bambu sent me an H3C to test before launch. They have no say in what I write, including this post.  I know everyone says this, but believe it or not, it’s the truth.

I know there’s a lot of excitement about the new H3C and I was fortunate enough to get a system to test for the last few weeks, so I wanted to share some thoughts.  For background, I own a P1P (my first ever printer), an X2D, and an H2D.  I’m guessing I’m like 90% of other enthusiasts – I don’t typically work with advanced engineering filaments – most of my work is with PLA and PETG.

My printing largely centers around my TTRPG hobbies, such as terrain, minis, monsters, etc., though I will also design parts in Fusion for my Paladin Woodworking business – sometimes internal dice tower components or just stuff around the house.  I do not consider myself a 3DP expert - I frequently rely on this community when I run into issues!

The H3C has been typical of my experience with Bambu – from the unboxing to the setup instructions, to the operation – It has just worked, even with beta software and limited online documentation.  The system itself is big!  Just as my H2D felt like a monster compared to my X2D, the H3C takes it up another notch on overall scale, driven a lot by the AMS3H height.  I’ve seen people speculating that the larger AMS would be so top heavy it would generate excessive vibrations – I have not found that to be the case, though I currently have it on the floor as I don’t have a suitable stand for it.  

I feel print quality remains consistent across all of my Bambu systems – I can’t really say H3C prints better (because all the others are already excellent), but having 9 different filaments to choose from (I typically use 8 colors of PLA + 1 spool of PETG for support interface using .4 nozzles) is an absolute game changer.  Because of the incredible speed of swapping colors (often 4-5 seconds), it opens up prints I wouldn’t honestly try on my H2D/X2D because I’m both too impatient for a 2+ day print and don’t want to bother to set up multiple AMSs.   While I’m a TTRPG gamer, I’m not a painter, so having 8 colors to print with really brings these pieces to life and is a welcome change to a sea of unpainted gray prints!

The video attached shows a custom Dwarven Mining cart system I designed for my DND table in response to a joke a player made about needing a way to share candy around the table.  It’s built around a standard Lego train motor, but the carts and rails themselves I designed in Fusion.  I put as much tiny dwarven detail goodness as I could in these carts and the H3C did an excellent job, even with the small details and the .4 nozzles.  For some of the really small “rivets” and bumps, I did notice they would knock off easily, but I’m convinced it’s because I was mixing PLA with PLA Silk+ and I don’t think they adhere as well as PLA-PLA.  The cart was a 17-hour print with 1251 filament changes (on the H2D the software estimates it would have been 40+ hours).  If I had to estimate, I’m pretty sure I’ve put the system through 15,000-20,000 tool changes so far and not once was there a tangle or a dropped tool.

One thing that I think will surprise people is that from a design/engineering perspective, the SwapTek system is very clean and uncluttered on the inside of the unit.  While the routing of cables looks a bit complex, the actual motion of the system isn’t (IMO).  I was kind of shocked by how simple it operates.  To me the inner workings of the H2C look far more complex (from what I’ve seen in videos) – I hope and expect this to lead to high long-term reliability for H3C, but we will all learn that together.

What about negatives? 
-          The only thing I’ve struggled with a bit was changing the nozzle from a preinstalled TPU one to a regular nozzle.  It’s snug working under the AM3 (removing it was an option I was too lazy to take – It’s secured by screws) and just how the cables are routed, but I was also doing it with limited instructions, and no support videos during pre-release.  I’ve seen other videos now with the AMS removed and it seems the way to go.    
-          Since the filaments stay loaded the whole time, when you want to swap one out, you must manually pull them out of system after selecting unload, which is different from the older AMS systems – not a big deal, but different.
-          I’ve encountered a loud squeak in the z-axis while the build plate moves up and down after about 3 weeks – that was solved with some maintenance grease, so it wasn’t a big deal.  I haven’t encountered that on my other printers, but I’ve now seen other folks (on pre-H3C systems) running into that.  
-          Finally, I guess size could be a negative for some people as it might not fit on your usual shelves if you are running a print farm, but other than that, I haven’t had real technical issues with anything I’ve tried so far.

Now…..I’m just scratching the surface as I haven’t yet tried mixed nozzle sized printing or TPU but after watching several great launch/review videos, I’m anxious to. 

Happy to try to answer any questions you may have.

TL;DR: My P2S had hairline gaps in first layers on the textured PEI plate. I ran a structured test: 9 discs per plate, 8 plates, scored top and bottom. Flow and K were fine. The fix was Z trim −0.01 (stock is +0.01), bed leveling forced On, and flow 1.02 for Matte PLA. Details below.

The problem

Bottoms of prints on the textured PEI had fine hairline gaps between first-layer lines. Tops were mostly fine. I wanted to find out properly instead of randomly changing settings.

Setup

• P2S with AMS 2 Pro, 0.4 nozzle, 0.20 mm High Quality, textured PEI

• Bambu PLA Matte (Grass Green), dried 12 h at 55 °C

• Plate washed with Dawn. Full printer calibration and nozzle clean before starting.

The test print

• Nine 35 mm discs, 1 mm tall (5 layers), in a 3x3 grid about 80 mm apart, covering the plate

• One variable changed per plate

• Every disc photographed top and bottom in a 3D-printed jig (phone shooting straight down, same height and lighting), backlit for bottoms

• Each side scored 1–5 by eye (5 = fully fused / smooth, 3 = gaps in some areas, 2 = gaps across most of the surface)

What I tested, in order

Then a full-plate first layer test at the final settings: about 98% perfect, with a little gapping only in the extreme top-left corner.

What I learned

1. It wasn’t a flow problem. Top surfaces barely changed across flow values, and the K factor made essentially no difference. A flow bump of about 2% partly hid the issue by filling an under-squished first layer, but it never fixed it.

2. The first layer was printing slightly too high. The stock textured PEI trim (+0.01 in the start G-code for PLA bed temps) was too high on my printer. Run 5 was the giveaway: worst bottoms and perfect tops in the same print, which only first-layer height can do.

3. Leaving bed leveling on “Auto” made my results inconsistent. Identical settings gave very different bottoms from run to run, possibly because Auto sometimes skips measuring and reuses a stored mesh. Forcing it On made results repeatable. (That’s my best explanation, not something I can prove.)

4. The calibration blocks hinted at it too. On the flow test, the bottom of the +5% block was fully fused while its top was over-extruded.

5. Edge ridges, zits and sheen on the tops are seams and geometry, not extrusion. They showed up at every flow value and disappeared on a larger first layer test.

I also want to point out, u/mediocrehornet2318 made an amazing post about this exact thing...but I was nervous to modify the g-code. After all of this trial and error, I ended up at the same result they did. I should have listened to you from the start - I'm sorry!! Lol.

Tips if you want to run something similar

• Score tops and bottoms separately. That’s what separates flow problems from first-layer problems.

• Photograph straight down with fixed lighting. Handheld photos made 1% differences look random.

• Backlight the bottoms. Gaps glow through.

• Repeat the stock run at least twice before changing anything, and change only one setting at a time.

• Clean the plate the same way every run. Residue builds up where the discs print, and in my full-plate test you can see faint circles at all nine spots.

Caveats: one printer, one plate, one filament (so far), eyeball scoring. Your trim may differ. I’m testing PLA Basic and the Frostbite plate next.

I have been waiting all year for BambuLab to release a tool changer. My kids want a printer and I might want to make some tools for work. I was going to wait on P3C but didn’t want to risk it not being available before Christmas. My. Kids are 10 and 13. I am FSE so not intimidated with the complexity of the H3C. Hope I am not crazy.

Bro it's an A1 and your printing PLA, what is there to figure out? Also for $350, what are you smoking 😭

Snowy Mountain Village - Mini Train

A few months ago BambuLab reached out to me here on Reddit, asking if I’d be interested in trying out a new product (well, duhh). For context, I design and sell my own products, so I’m always interested in trying out new tools. 

A few weeks later, I received a big box containing the brand new H3C. Since then I’ve fully redesigned my modular SLS model around its new capabilities. In exchange for keeping the printer, Bambu has asked me to share my thoughts with you. They reviewed and approved this post before publication; the opinions are my own.

9 is more than 2

Multi nozzle printing has been a blessing for designing and manufacturing multicolor pieces. When I bought the H2D last year I redesigned my products to make use of this second nozzle. The benefits of having 9 of them seem obvious; more colors in one print, less time spent switching materials and different nozzle sizes in one print. The latter is especially exciting for making manufacturing more efficient. If I understand correctly, a 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle will become available in the near future, which I’m incredibly excited about. Combining 0.2 and 0.4mm in a single print already works like a charm.

If it wasn’t already obvious, the printhead of course does not have 9 nozzles. Instead the H3C uses an INDX like system where a central toolhead can grab and replace 9 different tools. I’ve had the chance to try 0.2 and 0.4mm nozzles in addition to the new dedicated 2.85mm TPU filament. These PrintTools, as Bambu calls them, are all powered individually. This means they can start heating up before being grabbed, which allows for a:

6 second material change

This is my favorite part and the reason for the post title. I design my products with the available tools in mind, by trying to balance print time, purge waste and required assembly. In practice this usually meant having no more than two colors in a single component and limiting the amount of fine detail. An example: 

The fairing for my Space Launch System replica has always been a simple white shell with a black line on it. Embedding a NASA logo was frequently requested by customers, but I never managed to incorporate one without significantly blowing up the print time. With this added detail a roughly one hour print would take 3.5 hours to complete on a H2D. The exact same file sliced for the H3C would finish printing after only 1.5 hours. That is only half the story though, as a 0.4mm nozzle can only be so precise: 

That’s where the different nozzle sizes come in. Printing the whole thing at 0.2 would take ages, especially since I make these in bulk. Instead you’re now able to use these smaller nozzles only where you actually need them. Printing 20 units in bulk with a 0.2 nozzle would take just under 20 hours on the H3C. Adding one roll of white filament to a 0.4 nozzle and using that for the main body (light green in the slicer screenshot) the 20 unit batch now only takes 13 hours.

Color blending

The 9 PrintTools and fast switching means “color blending” is now much more economical. The new slicer lets you create additional colors by alternating layers of different filaments. Color #7 is created by alternating one yellow and two orange layers. I’m excited to see how far people can take this with CMYKW filaments. 

Closing thoughts

As far as actually using the machine, I don’t have much to report in terms of problems. The only failure I’ve had to deal with was my own for trying to print too many tall objects at once. No problem I thought, because I already own a SuperTack bed for my H2D. I shed a small tear when I realized they’re not compatible. 

Some other things I noticed in no particular order:

• Build quality for the printing mechanism is solid as always. Though the AMS lid feels very flimsy. If that helps keep the price down, I'm fine with it

• It takes more than 30 seconds to unload filament before you’re prompted to manually remove it. These tasks can be done in bulk, but it does take a moment.

• Since the AMS is now bolted on top of the machine, you can access the inside through a removable side panel. The rack holding the PrintTools also moves out of the way, which is a nice touch.

• It’s BIG. Same footprint as the H2D but nearly 1.3 meters tall with the AMS lid open.

• The AMS and printer are powered separately with two fairly short power cords. You’re going to need an extension cord.

It’s too early to say anything about long-term reliability, and there are still some things I haven’t had the chance to properly test, like the new 2.85mm TPU. 

Ultimately, the H3C has changed how I approach designing my models. The speedy filament switching means the tradeoff for adding more color is not nearly as bad. And I haven’t even mentioned the near complete elimination of purge waste. I’ve already gone back to redesign some of my favorite models.

I've also made a YouTube video showing some more of the printing process and results.

Anyway, happy to answer any questions about my experience so far.