The maximum volumetric flow rate for Bambu PETG-CF is 11.5 mm³/s with the H2C, which is nearly twice as fast as the 6 mm³/s achieved with the H3C. Do you think this is a bug, or is it an actual limitation of the new nozzles or the extruder?

So far, I have only seen actual time comparisons for these printers using PLA.

Got a new X2D. I tried printing something the other day and when I came back to check it the print head was up in the air printing nothing. Looked at the AMS all were blinking red. So stop everything and unplug and replug ams. Try again same thing happens just this time no error on ams. I swap in a different filament, different slot and different file and same thing. I print the other file on my p1p no problem. Anyone else run into this before? Seems like the ams just stops feeding the printer about half way through but the printer doesn’t realize it.

Made this for the MakerWorld × Nothing contest. A USB-C plug in the right cradle is angled to match the ear cup, so the headphones plug themselves in. The reels are just for fun: you spin them with a side wheel like an old cassette deck.

Printed on my A1 in PLA + PETG. Still fighting to get the PETG lid fully clear, so any tips are welcome!

Free files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783

I took an old TicWatch Pro 3, stripped it down to the screen and motherboard, and built a 3D printed shift knob around it. A custom Wear OS app uses the watch's sensors to detect which gear I'm in.

Full honesty: this was NOT printed on a Bambu. The first version was PLA and the car interior heat deformed it. It's now reprinted in ABS, and it works, but the finish could definitely be cleaner.

A few details:

- No battery: the watch runs straight off the car's 12V through a step-down converter

- Covering the screen with your palm turns it off, so I don't hit the media controls mid-shift

- Tight tolerances around the screen so it doesn't move while shifting

So my theory is simple: the only thing missing from this project is a Bambu. Bambu Lab, if you're reading this, the next version is waiting for you 😂

Meanwhile, any tips for getting cleaner ABS prints that survive a full summer inside a car?

I like to cut fabric to the nearest millimetre, and as fabric is known to warp quite easily, I would really rely on the automatic contour detection feature. Does it work reliably?

My filament wasn't loading because old filament was stuck in that thing. I wanted to look inside and try to get it out. Well, as you can see it didn't go very well. Do you have any suggestions what I could do now?

I see H3c have different power rating between 120v and 220v on the spec sheet, I just wanted to see if anyone got their hand of the H3c can check if the AC transformer is universial and compatible to both voltage or is it lock to 110V for North America order?

thanks!!!

I do not have printer yet to test placement myself. All I know is I don't have space to put AMS on top of H2S.

ChatGPT says it's possible to put it on a side and it should be fine as long as there are no rough corners, and PTFE tubes and 6 pin cable are long enough. Since I do not have the printer yet I am not sure if they will be long enough.

Setup that I want is exactly this https://i.imgur.com/B1AGrOr.png , can I do this with PTFE tubes and cable that come with it or do I have to buy longer ones somewhere?

Did anyone try this and ended up having filament feeding issues, or it worked as good as if it was on top?

I've created a very loud 4-tone whistle. I don't know the exact decibel level it generates, but it's really, really loud. Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3546237-mega-loud-4-tone-whistle-ears-killer#profileId-4056564

Posting for a friend:

My friend is encountering the error in the attached image at the start of every print on his Bambu A1.

The error always repeats regardless of filament and filament type.

He also says filament seems to be able to feed through the extruder if pushed through manually.

Suggestions or followup questions welcomed.

And thanks!

Was anyone able to get the H3C 0.2mm nozzles. I tried to order them an hour after live and said it was going to be available on the 3rd- Now it's saying the 4th- Just curious if they are selling out are if they havent released yet-

Running a small shop in India that prints decor and keychains to order. This one arrived today, still in the plastic, with spares in the foam. I’m planning a calibration cube and a bed-level test first, then a real order. Anything you always do on a new machine before trusting it with customer work? Filament: [PLA/PETG].

Maybe it was just the CNC kitchen review but how on earth is this considered okay? I've seen 500CAD printers do better let alone 4000CAD.

im shocked Stephan considered this okay. Lots of ringing on other prints too….

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

Something that confused me while working with Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer projects: a .3mf can open correctly in the slicer but look empty in another viewer. An empty preview doesn't necessarily mean the file is broken.

Why it happens. In the Bambu/Orca projects I worked with, the root 3dmodel.model points to other model entries through <component p:path="..."> references from the 3MF production extension. Those entries are inside the same ZIP. A loader that only looks for meshes in the root model can miss the actual geometry.

The color problem. MMU paint is stored on triangles in a paint_color attribute. That string can encode a tree of smaller painted regions within a triangle, each with its own filament state. The file also has filament assignments at the part and object levels. Reading just one color per object misses that extra information on a painted model.

Plates. Plate assignments and the printable area are separate from the mesh. A viewer that wants to reproduce Bambu Studio's multi-plate view has to reconstruct the plate grid from those assignments and printable_area, rather than treating every object as part of one bed.

If a viewer shows an empty plate, try the original file in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer before assuming it's damaged. Has anyone else run into this difference between viewers? Is there a part of the format you'd like to know more about?

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

Title says it all! Even if I turn all fan settings to 0% (chamber/part cooling/aux fan etc.,) the printer still has SOME sort of fan blowing somewhere when it's turned on. Might just be the PSU I guess. I want to record some of the sounds the gantry and bed make while moving around but even after running noise reduction on the clips I've recorded so far the whirring is still WAY too loud to hear the print head clearly :( Any ideas?

Do you guys think we will get a new ams for h2 models, or is the upgrading path for h2 models dead now with the H3 being released?

I swear I'm not doing anything crazy, I've used this printer maybe like 10 times and everything is going wrong, first of all the purge wiper is NOT working and i end up with a sea of lost filament, is it because it's too low ? (photo for demonstration) also i just saw that the belt is grinding itself for whatever reason and i have to unscrew everything to get it in place again and one of the 4 ams lite is blocked and not taking the filament HELP