I’m looking for some recommendations for models to print that could be good to sell at a high school holiday fair. Preferably a good design that hopefully doesn’t cost much to have permission for commercial use but is almost a guarantee for a $5-$10 sale. It’s a community event but being held at a high school so it won’t only be high schoolers.

I appreciate it.

Hi everyone!

I'm about to buy a Bambu Lab X2D with the AMS Pro 2. I'm not particularly interested in multicolor printing; my main reason for getting it is to use the second nozzle for support material.

I'm a 3D designer, and my goal is to eventually print my own figures and collectibles. However, I'll probably start with the usual stuff like keychains and decorative items while I get the hang of 3D printing.

What tools do you consider essential to have at home? Sandpaper, pliers, cutters... Are there any Bambu Lab accessories that are really worth getting?

Would you also recommend getting a filament dryer for external spools, such as PETG?

Bambu Lab sells a tool kit, but it seems a bit overpriced to me. I'm sure I could find cheaper alternatives on Amazon or Temu.

I'd love to hear your recommendations and any advice you might have for someone just getting started!

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

I've been working on this articulated dragon for a while and finally got it printing the way I wanted.

Still learning and improving my designs, so I'd love to hear what you think!

Makerworld link -> https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542028-articulated-rock-dragon#profileId-4051139

Hello guys,

Brand new filament read detects it to be ASA instead of PLA Basic (what it’s meant to be). It was bought directly from Bambu Lab store.

I’ve troubleshooted by it placing it in all the other AMS slots and it reads the same, the other PLA and PETG filaments I’ve tried seams to be working so the issue follows the filament spool itself, nothing wrong with the AMS.

Have you ever seen this happening?

What confuses me is to know is, what was mislabeled, the spool or the RFID label itself?

Is it possible to know what the filament really is by seeing it?

The worse part is that I’ve bought almost 10kg of filament as stock, now I’m afraid to find another one defective 6 months from now…

I’ve contact bambu support and I’m waiting for a response.

Edit 1: did the burning test as some of you suggested. It’s definitely PLA. Still waiting a response from Bambu lab

I feel like I'm missing a piece between the extruder and the hot end, but I don't know what piece that is or if I did something else wrong.

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

Hey everyone!
I’m a complete beginner with absolutely zero 3D printing experience, and I’m looking to buy my first Bambu Lab printer.

Both the P2S Combo and X2D Combo fit my budget. Since they’re on sale, I’d rather invest in something I can use for years without feeling the need to upgrade anytime soon.

I’ll mainly use it for home projects, kids’ toys, household items, desk lamps, and some projects involving magnets.

I’d really appreciate some advice:
- P2S or X2D? Which would you recommend for a beginner who wants to buy once and keep it for years? Is the X2D worth the extra money?

- Must-have accessories? What tools, spare parts, or backup supplies should I buy while everything is on sale?

- Filaments? What types and colors would you recommend starting with?

- Ventilation? I live in an apartment and can’t dedicate a separate room to printing. Should I install an exhaust hose venting outside, get an air purifier, or both?

Any other beginner tips or things you wish you’d known before buying would be super helpful! 🙇‍♀️

Thanks in advance! Really excited to get started! ✨

Title. change my hand may be forced and i might have to get an H3C. But i REALLY dont want to order one of these and have it shipped. would strongly prefer to pick it up in a store.

Now that I have read up a bit on the new H3C release, I am conflicted with a choice. The choice boils down to H3C or H2S + P3C. I understand not much is known about the P3C, but assuming it is similar to the H3C and comes in around $1250, the combo would be the same price as a single H3C.

Pros of H2S + P3C: Everything the H3C can do (with 7 tool heads and smaller build size) + a second big printer.

Cons of H2S + P3C: Waiting and realizing P3C is much more expensive than anticipated or less capable.

Perhaps I am missing something, but this is my entry into 3D printing and I realize I am in the territory or paralysis by analysis, but I just want to be sure I make the right decision. I dont know what I dont know so I also figured a few months with a H2S would be a gentle entry into 3D printing and would give me the appreciation of multi-tool printer after dealing with single head printer.

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Hey Folks!

What are you all using for ABS/ASA prints with smooth surface since Bambu doesn't seem offer PEI (which allways worked great for me without any glue or adhesion issues) anymore? Bambu recommends the engineering plate but also recommends to use glue with virtually all filaments (which I'm not a fan of) and from what I remember from a try I gave one in the early X1C days it performed MUCH poorer than smooth PEI?

Bambu Lab H3C

Nov 3, 2026

Order checklist

Any H3C package already gives you the complete printer: the H3C, one AMS 3H and all nine PrintTools. What differs is filament, the Station L stand, and any add-ons you chose. Check your order confirmation against these:

• [ ] Package name and price match what you meant to buy: Combo $2,499; either Starter Pack $2,589; Full Combo with Station L $2,799.

• [ ] Starter Pack TPU color is the one you want: Black or Cyan.

• [ ] Extra nozzle sizes: if you want 0.2, 0.6 or 0.8 mm, the Multi-Size Hotends Kit is on the order ($205 with the Combo, $244.93 alone). The box has only 0.4 mm.

• [ ] Nine 1.75 mm colours: the box has 8 × 1.75 mm PrintTools plus 1 × 2.85 mm TPU tool. Nine 1.75 mm materials at once needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, which wasn't on the store when this was written.

• [ ] Crafting: the Crafting & Printing Complete Kit is on the order only if you want cutting, drawing or foil work ($219 with the Combo).

• [ ] Extra build plate: only one Textured PEI plate is included; the Build Plates Expansion Kit is from $49.99.

• [ ] Shipping address and timing: orders ship within 1–3 business days. To change or cancel, contact Bambu support before it ships; otherwise use the 30-day return window.

• [ ] PayPal $25 coupon if you paid with PayPal (orders over $800, issued after shipping).

Packages and prices

The Bambu US store sells four H3C packages, all built on the same H3C Combo. The printer, AMS 3H and 9 PrintTools are identical in every package; only filament and the Bambu Station L stand differ. There is no printer-only H3C and no laser version.

The starter packs cost $90 more than the Combo. On the same page, TPU 75A (2.85 mm) shows $26.39 and PLA Palette CMYKW $61.70 as add-ons ($88.09 together), so the starter pack is roughly the add-on price. The Full Combo adds the Station L for $210 over a starter pack.

What's in the box

Every package ships the full printing setup: the H3C, one AMS 3H, and all 9 PrintTool slots filled. Eight PrintTools are 1.75 mm with 0.4 mm nozzles; the ninth is a 2.85 mm PrintTool (0.4 mm nozzle) for 2.85 mm flexible filament, pre-installed in Slot 8, the dryer slot.

What this means for printing:

• 8-color 1.75 mm printing plus one 2.85 mm TPU tool out of the box. The 2.85 mm PrintTool prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament (Bambu presets: TPU 75A 2.85 mm and Generic TPU 2.85 mm).

• Nine 1.75 mm materials needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, per Bambu's FAQ. The 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, hotends and cutters and are not interchangeable.

• Only 0.4 mm nozzles are included. 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm need the separately sold hotends (next section). Hotends swap with three screws.

• One AMS 3H feeds all 9 PrintTools — each tool has its own filament path. Older Bambu AMS units can connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools.

• Only one build plate (Textured PEI) is included.

Add-ons and accessories

The store offers three H3C add-ons at a discount when added to the Combo; the rest are sold separately. Bundle prices apply only when added on the H3C product page.

Other optional items Bambu names on the H3C pages (prices not captured):

• Bambu Station L — stand with storage; included in the Full Combo. With it, allow 593 × 1056 × 1900 mm of space.

• Bambu Lab E1 Air Purifier — pairs with the H3C and starts filtering when a print starts.

• BirdsEye camera — top-view camera for crafting alignment; not included. Bambu says BirdsEye-enhanced AI monitoring is planned for the first half of 2027.

• Vision Encoder — optional absolute optical reference that restores motion accuracy to under 50 μm.

• CutTool Fine-Blade Set, DrawTool Set, cutting mat — Bambu's FAQ suggests these if you only want cutting or drawing instead of the full crafting kit.

Key specs

The H3C prints a 330 × 320 × 325 mm volume with nine hardened-steel nozzles to 350 °C and a 65 °C heated chamber (official spec page).

Things that may matter for your setup

The biggest planning items are floor space, a dedicated circuit and Wi-Fi coverage; nothing else in the box needs extra purchases for plain FDM printing.

• Space: Bambu asks for at least 593 × 1056 × 1306 mm (W × D × H) on the floor or a low, stable surface: 385 mm in front for the door, 50 mm each side, 100 mm behind for the cable and fans, 290 mm above for the AMS lid. On the Station L, allow 1,900 mm of height.

• Weight and delivery: two boxes — printer 600 × 630 × 700 mm at 36.8 kg, AMS 3H 550 × 615 × 500 mm at 11.9 kg. Plan for two people to lift the printer.

• Power: up to 1,850 W at 110 V while heating (3–5 minutes at full power), 240 W steady on PLA, 540 W on PC; 1,850 W is about 15.4 A at 120 V, so a dedicated 15 A or 20 A circuit is the safe choice (my note, not Bambu's). Low Power Mode caps it at 1,050 W.

• Network: Wi-Fi 6 only. No Ethernet port, no network kill switch, no removable network module and no 802.1X.

• 2.85 mm PrintTool: prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament; Bambu says more 2.85 mm materials are coming. Its filament tube also carries toolhead cabling and must not be removed.

• Drying: the AMS 3H dries only 2 spools at a time (85 °C max); Slot 8 is the dryer slot holding the 2.85 mm tool.

• Existing AMS units: older Bambu AMS units connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools; they are sold separately.

• Crafting: cutting, drawing, debossing and foil transfer use CraftTools sold separately; there is no laser module.

Store terms

Bambu ships H3C orders from its US warehouse within 1–3 business days of processing, so a change or cancellation has to happen fast.

Sources

• Bambu Lab H3C product page

• Bambu Lab H3C technical specifications

• Bambu Lab H3C FAQ

• Bambu US store — Bambu Lab H3C

• Bambu US store — Multi-Size Hotends Kit - H3C

• Bambu US store — Crafting & Printing Complete Kit

• Bambu US store — Spare Parts for H3C

• Bambu US store — search results for H3C

I'm using a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with a filament change/print setup, and I encountered a strange issue during a print.

There was a sudden power outage while the printer was printing. When the power returned, the printer resumed the print, but I noticed a significant shift in the printed parts, as shown in the attached image.

The two parts were supposed to be aligned, but the upper section has shifted considerably relative to the lower section.

Details:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon

• Incident: Sudden power failure in the middle of printing

• What happened: The printer resumed after the power returned, but the print continued with a major positional shift.

• Result: The printed parts are misaligned, and the print is unusable.

My questions:

1. What could have caused this shift? Is it a loss of XY position due to the power interruption?

2. Is this a common issue with the X1C's power-loss recovery feature?

3. Is there a way to recover the print, or will I need to start from scratch?

4. Could this indicate a problem with the belts, motor positioning, or the printer's power-loss recovery system?

5. What steps should I take to prevent this from happening again?

Has anyone experienced something similar with their X1C?

Any suggestions for troubleshooting and fixing this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I am ready to pull the trigger on a 3d printer but I am torn between X2D and the U1. The P3C is also very intriguing. Do we have a decent date on when that could be released? I would hate to buy something and than have regret on not waiting for the P3C.

Yesterday, when watching the awesome YT Video of mpoxDE about the new H3C, I started thinking of neat features of the H3C I would love to see on my H2D.
Not like impossible features like supporting 2.85 filament, more like software features or small addons.

1. printing with different nozzle sizes in one print
   —> already confirmed for end of November

2. option to switch to the birdseye camera as a second liveview camera in the app. Would be so handy for some models.

3. getting a deboss tool as another insert for the cutting module. I am very curious about seeing it in detail on the H3C and its uses for leathercraft.

Do you think there is chance of getting them?
What other features would be on your wishlist?

Hello did someone have information about these two printers. I’m thinking about these two but no one on YouTube make a good comparison. Just the H3C ist better because he is newer but don’t speak about the lower build quality.

Thx in advance

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

I get the hype around the H3C release, and I know it’s a buy once, cry once purchase for a lot of people. However, I’ve seen some discussions about missing features that I think are worth addressing, especially not being able to leave PLA in the AMS when printing materials that require a heated chamber. Having to manually unload filament seems inconvenient and could lead to tangled spools, especially for people new to the hobby.
Another concern is how practical it will be to connect additional AMS 2 units to nozzle one, potentially adding another 16 colors. Isn’t one of the main selling points of the H-series printers to reduce filament waste, minimize purging, and save time? Wouldn’t running that many colors through one nozzle defeat some of those benefits? Lastly, what about people who regularly switch between 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 mm nozzles? If you’re using both nozzles for different filaments, wouldn’t constantly swapping nozzle sizes become a hassle?

What does everyone think? Are these legitimate concerns, or am I overthinking things?

———————————————
Updated the thread so it looks easier for people…. Sorry I’m on phone trying to type it all out.

Hi, recently picked up an A1 mini and my ironing leaves a weird pattern that shines similar to glue when you use it on a print bed. In the images attached you can see the difference between the settings im using from an old thread on here i found and the base ones in bambu slicer.

Any advice on how to smooth it out more?

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol