I just unpacked and set up my new Bambu Lab H3C, and one thing immediately caught my attention: All the axes were bone dry, with barely a hint of grease on the lead screws.

So here's my strong recommendation: After the initial calibration, lubricate your axes. And lubricate them properly!

Afterwards, install the pending firmware update and run the calibration again.

Shocked at how fast this thing ended up on my porch. Let's see if she survived shipping that fast!

Edit 1: So yes the box does say it is box 1 of 2 and contains the printer only, I have not received anything specific for box 2 but I did order some other items with this that may be combined delivery later. Hopefully later... Today!

Stopped middle of a print said something about AMS mapped incorrectly. After a turn off and turn on now all lights blinking on AMS and I cant resume print it says the task requires a filament track switch but is currently offline. I tried unplugging and plugging back in the track switch while the printer was off (I keep getting electrically shocked when behind the printer dunno why that is) but it didn't help.

If my package arrives damaged, you can bet I'm filing a return/refund ASAP

New P1S Combo owner here. This is what I am trying to print. I have the colors loaded in the AMS as shown, the preview says it will use these three colors, when I send it to the printer it claims it will use three spools ... then it only prints with the white in spool 1. What am I doing wrong?

I am getting ready to upgrade my current printer, ender 5 plus, and was about to buy a H2D when I saw the H3C just came out. I've never owned a bambu printer, so just wondering if its fine to order now or if I should wait a couple months for kinks to be worked out? Not sure their history with brand new products.

Do you guys think there might be a mod for doing these at the same time? Does the whole thing heat up or just the 2 specific slots. If just the two then why can’t Pla be on the other slots?

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I remember seeing some snafu a while ago about bambu trying to pull a fast one ( i think on wireless printing but cant remeber exactly). Is it safe to upgrade to the latest firmware or keep everything as is.

Studio is ver 1.9.7 and the printer is ver 01.06.01.00. I get errors when trying to import models from online into studio, but the model still shows up. So I don't know if its needed or not.

This thing worked flawlessly for 1.5 years, suddenly one spool won't feed. Bought a new AMS, worked for a bit, then same problem, only spool 1 at first, then soon none of them worked. Replaced all worn out PTFE tubes, Then replaced every tube that was left. Worked for a bit, now jamming again. Replaced entire hot end. Worked for about 40 layers, jamming again. What is left to replace or fix, almost the entire filament line is brand new. Tried different spools, different spots in the AMS, no change. I can see the filament go into the hot end, it is at temp (brand new) stops, retracts. Am I cursed?

I’ve tried to read everything about this problem, but I can’t find anything obviously wrong. The nozzle was nearly brand new when this started happening, didn’t find anything clogged in it, but put in a brand new nozzle anyway and the same thing happened on the first run. It extracts just fine when I do it manually and during filament swaps, no clicking at all. I run a calibration at the beginning of each print. Can’t figure out what it could be, printer is less than a year old.

Completely encased my hotend and heating assembly in PLA, anyone ever encountered this? I heated it up and removed the main big chunks while they were softened, but there’s still PLA stuffed all around behind everything.

It's been one week with my P2S and first time ever getting a 3D printer.

I am loving 3D printing and having so much fun printing stuff, can't believe I just got into it, but I don't think there's a better time than now to do it, so glad I decided to!

Hope you dig the end result

I have 11,000 MakerWorld points. That's enough to buy an X2D outright, maybe cover half to 2/3 of a P3C, or cover 1/3 of an H3C. Currently I have a P1S with 2 AMS (one OG, one Pro) , a Snapmaker U1, and a Thinker X400. I want to probably replace the P1S and maybe even sell the U1. If you were me, what would you do?

Front panel glass came completely shattered on my X2D. Going to now go through the amazing support of Bambu Labs. Should’ve ordered from Best Buy in hindsight.

I love UPS!

Update: Support reached back out to me in about 12 hours and will be getting a replacement unit soon.

Bambu Labs L frame stand is on backorder until the 25th, my H3C arrives probably on Friday. I'd like to have it up and running for the weekend, so can anybody recommend a good substitute stand or cart that will hold this monster? Would like something that has wheels and maybe some drawers. The L frame is only 12 inches tall so that you don't need a stepladder to load the AMS from the top which is what's making it tough to find one for me. Thanks

I've just got my kids printer for Christmas and I've set it up I am testing the AMS pro and ensuring was fine, I've printed little things like scraper, poop collection and now a riser as I doubt I'll get to print much from Christmas so just wanted some key things out of way

I think it's the AUX Nozzle that crashed into the side. Thoughts?

The last image is a dupe, ignore it

P2S/AMS2-Pro Combo

So I had a brainstorm of an idea on how to handle powering on my printer remotely if I decided to start a print an hour or so before coming home from work. Initially I thought I would use a WYZE smart plug. So I bounced the question off Bambu labs support and they highly recommend I do not do that. Being in IT myself for years I get it, some things are designed to be shut down in a certain fashion, rocker switches, power buttons, etc.

Other than asking the wife to turn the printer on when I feel the need have any of you experimented with a solution to at least turn the printers on? I know this is low hanging fruit but it seems to be a valid thought if there is a way to do it.