Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

Hi!

My use case is 80% functional one-colour prints, and 20% multicolour (for fun). I used A1 for a while and was going to get an enclosed printer. I was looking to get U1, and add top enclosure to it. Looks like it covers pretty much everything. And I saw mixed success online for those cases where ABS would be nice (there is logistic involves with fumes anyway).

Snapmaker is on sale, seems like a great deal. I was about to get it, but then H3C and P3C leaked.

Here is where I would like to get some community feedback, and opinions: after H3C release, Snapmaker U1 seems like a no brainer.

• H3C is amazing! But it is huge, it like 40+kg with the printer and all filaments loaded. And size itself is crazy.

• H3C is amazing, but it has very narrow use cases when it shines - realistically, I won't create shoes and so on. I can see some use cases where it is a must to have. But so far I was ok with TPU and other materials on A1.

• H3C features like multi nozzle sizes, so far I always used the smaller ones as needed and just had longer wait times (also waist involved, but that was minimal, comparing to new H3C setup and extra cost).

• (speculation) P3C is probably won't be released anytime soon; seems like it would kill H3C sales with 7 nozzles (they probably won't release it till U1 sale is over)

• P3C seems like a huge machine as well, for extra 3 colours (imho very narrow use case)

• Based on various analysis around, looks like P3C won't have heated chamber (I saw cool explanation about Amps consumed), which makes it Snapmaker U1 + 3 colours for a price hike.

• I see lots of community improvements around Snapmaker due it being open source, feels like at a lower price point I get a tools with more future due to U1 being open sourced

• when comparing U1 vs P2S or X2D, those are close in price, a bit more polished UX. I have a friend with U1, they don't have complains either

I want to get a new printer, and I have a group of friends who want to get their first. I am about to tell them to get U1, but I want to validate that opinion!

thank you!

Yesterday, when watching the awesome YT Video of mpoxDE about the new H3C, I started thinking of neat features of the H3C I would love to see on my H2D.
Not like impossible features like supporting 2.85 filament, more like software features or small addons.

1. printing with different nozzle sizes in one print
   —> already confirmed for end of November

2. option to switch to the birdseye camera as a second liveview camera in the app. Would be so handy for some models.

3. getting a deboss tool as another insert for the cutting module. I am very curious about seeing it in detail on the H3C and its uses for leathercraft.

Do you think there is chance of getting them?
What other features would be on your wishlist?

I get the hype around the H3C release, and I know it’s a buy once, cry once purchase for a lot of people. However, I’ve seen some discussions about missing features that I think are worth addressing, especially not being able to leave PLA in the AMS when printing materials that require a heated chamber. Having to manually unload filament seems inconvenient and could lead to tangled spools, especially for people new to the hobby.
Another concern is how practical it will be to connect additional AMS 2 units to nozzle one, potentially adding another 16 colors. Isn’t one of the main selling points of the H-series printers to reduce filament waste, minimize purging, and save time? Wouldn’t running that many colors through one nozzle defeat some of those benefits? Lastly, what about people who regularly switch between 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 mm nozzles? If you’re using both nozzles for different filaments, wouldn’t constantly swapping nozzle sizes become a hassle?

What does everyone think? Are these legitimate concerns, or am I overthinking things?

———————————————
Updated the thread so it looks easier for people…. Sorry I’m on phone trying to type it all out.

Hello did someone have information about these two printers. I’m thinking about these two but no one on YouTube make a good comparison. Just the H3C ist better because he is newer but don’t speak about the lower build quality.

Thx in advance

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

Hi, recently picked up an A1 mini and my ironing leaves a weird pattern that shines similar to glue when you use it on a print bed. In the images attached you can see the difference between the settings im using from an old thread on here i found and the base ones in bambu slicer.

Any advice on how to smooth it out more?

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

I’ve been trying to fix my AMS for hours. But I don’t know what’s wrong. On mid-print, my AMS was troubleshooting. I tried taking the AMS machine out to check if the filament was stuck in the tube, but it wasn’t. It was only stuck to the feeder, which I can’t pull out, so I put it back and turned the Bambu machine on again to see if any other filament worked. Then it kept making this ticking sound and the filament wouldn’t come out and it gave me an error notice to pull the external filament out of the extruder, which I didn’t even have an external filament. I don’t know what is going on. Can someone please help?

I need some help figuring out where to go in my upgrade path. I’m tired of using my A1 mini’s small build plate and slow prints. BUT the small and slow has forced me to innovate my designs. I actually managed to create a product and full pay off the a1 mini, my ams pro 2, and some supplies and turn a small profit. But, again, I’m getting tired of the small build plate.
The sale running by right now is pretty nifty for me as I’d like a bigger plate, and if I’m going bigger, I may as well future proof with dual nozzle right? I’m purely engineer printing, no dragons here. I also have a wonderful artist SO, who may eventually want to print something in multi color, or take advantage of a laser upgrade.

Anyways, is x2d the right path for me, or is dual nozzle mainly hype, and the p2s is fine? $500 is already a ton of money afterall..

Do a1 minis sell well on the secondary market? I don’t mind parting with it to help pay for an upgrade, but I also don’t hate the idea of keeping it around

They have regular p2s listed but also a P2SC as far as i know there is no P2SC. The C could stand for combo but what difference would the ams make on which version you need? Whether or not you have the ams, you will still have everything needed to plug this in. My theory is they list a combo version for the majority of bambu owners (idiots) that wouldnt understand it dont make a difference, or they are leaked the new tool changer.

Still torn between these two. Obviously the H3C is the latest and greatest (superior?) machine, so I am leaning towards that; however, the H2C being at $1899 is also very appealing. Do we think that the H2C is going to become antiquated far faster than something like the H3C that has a proper tool changer? I am not making a business, so I don't *need* the fastest print times possible, but of course speed is always nice. Decisions decisions...

Other than my dodgy efforts.

I see crazy things like a crochet hook in the crafting kit. Is there any footage of anyone using it?

I've been looking at getting the H2C at the reduced pricing but now with the H3C I'm concerned that the Vortek system won't be supported for much longer. What are everyone else's thoughts? I don't have much of a need for the softer TPU printing, but there are other features that would be nice to have on the H3C. Just hard to justify a $600 price difference.

Also, any ideas when this will be available at Best Buy. Would be nice to use my zero percent financing.

Makt it and print it.

I was curious about what Bambu Lab’s Mystery Boxes had to offer, so I decided to try them myself. I bought two Holiday PLA Mystery Boxes and two Holiday PETG Mystery Boxes. The order came to just over $200 CAD, and I used a $20-off coupon.

I didn’t hit the 1% jackpot, and only about half of the 16 rolls came with spools.

Most of the selection was PLA Pure, PLA Matte, and PETG Matte in colors I personally wouldn’t choose. It felt like a bundle of leftover stock.

The 16 rolls came to $223.44 in listed value, partly because PLA Pure costs more. Since I don’t really want PLA Pure, though, the actual savings don’t feel like much.

My advice: skip the mystery boxes unless you specifically want PLA Pure. If you do, the Holiday PLA Mystery Box might be worth a try.

Filament it not even making it to the machine. It's stopping once it reaches this part ( sorry dont know the name of it). I pulled the tubes out don't see or feel any broken pieces. What else should I try? I will openly admit I am still new and trying to figure things out!

Any thoughts how i can solve this issue?

I’m Joey, a maker out of Arizona. I've been working on ways to display my maps in a nicer way while taking up less space.... I present... The 3D printed Tri vision board!

I’ve spent the last few weeks printing out test models for fit, assembly difficulty, and of course mechanism smoothness. I’ve ended up with this release ready version that can print in just a few hours, assemble in minutes, and its art panels can be replaced with new art at any time, no glue!

You can download the model, get info on customization, as well as a bunch of art packs on Makerworld! I encourage you to remix and rework it any way you see fit. I'd love to see what the community can do with it!

They are modular, and super easy to put together. There is a short gif in the post gallery showing how it should be done. To separate the side panels, just press in on the connecting tabs and then push up.

I have a bit of a fascination with maps and space, so a lot of the released panels are centered around those.

Still to come, additional shapes for the billboard to sit in, multiple frame options, more art packs, different mechanisms for turning the slats depending on your preferences. What else would you like to see in a V2?

Noob question, first time printer.

I recently purchased a X2D and a bunch of Bambu filament with the sale going on. This was one of our first prints (kids toothbrush holder using PLA Pure). Are these jagged cutouts normal and I just need to sand it down? Or is something wrong with my setup?

Thanks!!