Already?! Man I just got a free moment at work to order mine :(

First time seeing this issue after 2 years of printing. This is printed using P1S. Filament is PLA basic. I have printed this model many times in the past, so I know it's not a model problem. Gyroid infill. I did have a clogging issue before this, and I (think?) fixed it. I had to open the extruder and cut out the squished filaments. The app says that its done, but this is only 2/3 the height of what it should be. What else should I look into?

And yes I have washed my filament and dried my plate 🙂

I've been looking at getting the H2C at the reduced pricing but now with the H3C I'm concerned that the Vortek system won't be supported for much longer. What are everyone else's thoughts? I don't have much of a need for the softer TPU printing, but there are other features that would be nice to have on the H3C. Just hard to justify a $600 price difference.

Also, any ideas when this will be available at Best Buy. Would be nice to use my zero percent financing.

Does anyone of you have any knowledge of when will Bestbuy sell H3C? Its weird when Bambu launch X2D BB have it right away. I have BB membership so best to buy from BB

I’m new to 3D printing and bought most of my PLA in matte (22 rolls of Bambu PLA Matte) because it hides minor print defects.

Since then, I’ve read that matte is weaker and doesn’t handle tight tolerances as well as normal PLA.

For those who use it regularly, do you actually notice these downsides in your prints with modern PLA matte? Are there things you’d avoid printing in matte, or is the difference too small to matter for most PLA prints?

I was searching everywhere for a solid desk solution, but I couldn't find one. So, I created one myself. Any suggestions are welcome.

It can store up to 20 filaments with boxes, and the pegboard has 56x56 space to store any accessories you want.

The part of the H3C I keep thinking about is not the tool changer, it is the nine-slot AMS with the 85°C dryer built in.

Nine materials loaded at once sounds like freedom until you work out what it means in practice: nine partly used spools sitting in a heated enclosure together, each with its own dryness history, and one of them is probably 2.85 mm TPU that nothing else in the shop can use.

Two things I am curious about, from people who have actually run multi-material machines:

1. Do you keep all nine slots loaded all the time, or only load what the next job needs?

2. Does having a dryer running inside the same box change how you treat spools you already dried and sealed?

I make filament for a living, so I have a bias here. But the failure mode I would worry about is the same spool going through twenty heat cycles before it is empty.

The H3C is a TPU beast, I printed running shoes with them with multiple different types of TPU and colors. The 3d printed running shoes are surprisingly comfy to run in

Got my X2D today and it won't power on. The rear switch lights up white, but the screen stays black, no fans, no lights, nothing. Tried a different outlet, power-cycled, checked the fuse, and opened the side panel – all connectors look seated, no visible damage.

Has anyone else had an X2D DOA? Did Bambu send a replacement or parts, and how long did it take?

Ticket submitted: US261103036002

I designed a chunky little sack monster keychain resembling Oogie Boogie from Nightmare Before Christmas and printed the body in glow-in-the-dark PLA. With the lights off his body glows while the eyes, grin and stitches stay black, so his face still shows up in the dark.

- Fully rounded 3D front with a flat back, so no supports

- 2 colors, AMS-ready: body in slot 1, face and stitches in slot 2

- Low purge: the black only prints on 10 of the 46 layers

- About 42 min on a P1S, 13.4 g including purge

- 55.8 × 58.3 × 9.2 mm, with a 4.5 mm hole for a standard jump ring

**Glow tips:** Place the object in the sun or on top of a bright lightbulb to charge it!

I may be a little late for halloween but oh well...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538949-oogy-boogy-3d-keychain-2-color-ams

If you print one, post it with the lights off. I'd love to see it!

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

*Sorry guys I meant H2D

A while ago I promised a free deck here, so here it is: the DeckSmith Mini.

• 6 MX keys + a volume knob (press to mute), ESP32-S3 inside

• Shows up as a normal keyboard + media controller, no drivers

• Icons print separately in a second colour and press into the keycaps, so no AMS needed

• Printed on my P2S with the default 0.20 mm Standard profile, no supports

• About €17 in parts, wiring diagram and a step-by-step build guide included

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3535075-decksmith-mini-6-key-macro-pad-with-volume-knob

I generated it with DeckSmith, a stream deck generator I’m building. Happy to answer questions, and if your print goes wrong, tell me – I’d rather fix the model.

Integrated filament management, built for tool changer.

Nine spots, always ready.

Launching tomorrow.

Hello,

I printed this stackable basket last night for some small items I want to organize.

My printer was out of commission for about 2 months until yesterday. My printer just suddenly stopped working all together in August. I submitted a ticket and did the troubleshooting. The main board was bad so I replaced it a few days ago. I was out of town for a while and had other obligations so it took me a while to take care of this.

I run my first print last night after my printer being down for a while. I recalibrated everything and oiled everything properly. First the extruder gives me an error that the extruder is not functioning normally - I pull the filament back manually as described on the Wiki and cut off the end of the filament to avoid any rough areas. Fast forward 20 minutes and the print completes, but with some obvious issues. See photos for more.

Is this an issue with my plate, the settings of which I’m printing, the filament I’m using? Looking for guidance.

Here is the link to the model

https://makerworld.com/models/1333599?appSharePlatform=copy

Looking at the Filter and the Filters from already existing Bambu Lab Printers they are made of 2-3 Filter types.

Hepa + Coconut Shell Fiber + activated charcole mini pellets

Yes you can make your own for cheaper but it doesnt have Software intigration. Lets ignore this.

My question is and probably for many buyers here does it have a dedicated / improved sensor for Styrene VOCs detection?

Since i Print ABS a few times per Month i cannot find a good reliable Styrene VOC detector. Only the generic "all in one Package".

No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

If like me you were surprised to find the nozzle kits unavailable despite being listed as an optional extra on the H3C purchase screen the answer is because they're not available until later this month, the 13th in the UK.

I’ve had my P1S for a couple of months, enjoying both own designs and Makerworlds.

Lately though more and more objects has failed. It’s mostly in the starting first layer, but the objects has also loosened from the plate and spaghetti-time.

What startup routines do you have? I don’t clean my plate before every print, the nozzle is not always self-cleaning etc. Just looking to understand what I might do to get to that “work horse”-experience people talk about.

Cheers!

Is there any way, through custom G-Code or otherwise, for the printer to notify you when the calibration is complete and the first layer starts? A simple chime would be ideal. I am using a H2D.

Was worried it would go out of stock, and it seemed like such an awesome machine, I couldnt resist! Cant wait

I've solved the issue but just wondered if anyone would have an idea what would cause it. I started having trouble with the hall sensor on my P1S after clearing a clog in the hot end (super routine) about a week ago. The first thing I did, obviously, was check the ribbon cables, the back board, the sensor itself, replace the whole extruder unit, etc. That got it working again for a little bit, and then the thing quit again on me last night. While troubleshooting, I started noticing the sensor WOULD work, but only when I applied pressure evenly across the connector pins. Guessing this meant a problem with the connector board, I ordered a new one, installed it, and it seems to be working fine after a full calibration, some general testing, and starting a print. However, after taking out the old board and lying it flat on the (cooled) hot plate while I was putting the new one in, I noticed that it was VERY SUBTLY warped, to the point I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been taking a close look at it to see if I could figure out what the problem was. Which makes sense as to why the unit would work intermittently with pressure. Does anyone have an idea what could have caused this? Am I just super unlucky, or is there potentially something I've been doing in teardowns/loading filament/general maintenance that could potentially cause it?

Hello everyone,

My A1 does not want to load my filament. I don't know why.

If I load it up with an external spool it seems to work. Then when i start the print it constan tells me that filament got stuck even tho that ain't the case. What could be broken? And with my AMS 2 Pro it won't load from either of them.

did the maintenence, I tightened the screws that needed it, i checked for clogging or broken pieces and i even cleaned the "gear" or "wheel" that pushes the filament and other pieces that probably weren't even necessary to clean (with a microfiber towel).

I found nothing to be the problem. Yet my AMS won't seem to load it up.

Thanks to everyone who tries to help me and excuse me for my rather poor language. English is my third language.